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Everything posted by Paul_D

  1. I'm fairly sure that my 410 will re-lock itself if you haven't opened the doors after you unlock it.
  2. @lueysgarage I can confirm that my car definitely does not do this mate. God knows what’s happening with yours. 😂
  3. That's a very strange thing to happen. In my head I can't really understand what could possibly cause that. I certainly don't see how the headlamps could affect it. Is it only the left side? I could try the same on my car for you when I get home, but as I have the GRP lights with ballast resistors my overall circuit load will be slightly different to yours.
  4. I imagine they may be getting snapped up quite quickly at the moment. Don't know if you can set up some sort of alert to notify you if similar items get listed?
  5. Due to the supply issues, it's worth keeping an eye on ebay at the moment. My rears aren't quite ready for replacement, but it won't be too much longer. I managed to get a pair of 285/30/18 Cup2's (with 5mm of tread left) off ebay for £200. I wouldn't normally look for used tyres, but these are unusual circumstances. At the time there was also a single brand new tyre for sale. If you start looking far enough in advance you may be lucky.
  6. @rmaurer Unfortunately, for the first time since I got it I didn't actually have the dash in track mode for those sessions. One of the first things to go through my mind when I got back to the pits was 'damn it, I'm not in track mode so I can't even analyse the data when I get home'
  7. It’s a possibility, but I don’t think it was likely to be fuel surge. The tank was over 50% full, and the track was still a bit damp so I wasn’t cornering particularly hard. I don’t know if I’ve been lucky, but I’ve run the tank much lower than that before on a dry track and never had a problem with fuel surge.
  8. @Tex Cheers for that mate. Hopefully mine was just a one off glitch too. I reckon I’ll probably just leave it and see if it does it again.
  9. On Thursday at Brands Hatch my car had a problem in one of the sessions, and I wonder if anyone had experienced similar. Coming out of a corner, I tried to accelerate and there was no power at all. I slowed down slightly and the car would accelerate back up to 4000rpm and then stop, so it was obviously in some sort of limp mode. There were absolutely no lights on the dash to indicate that anything was wrong. I cruised back to the pits, and after I'd left the car a while and restarted it the fault was gone. I did two more sessions, and a 120 mile journey home with no problems. A fellow owner reminded me that the brake light switch can cause problems....BUT, my car was still in Sport mode when I got back to the pits. I thought issues with the brake switch kicked you out of Sport mode? Or is that not always the case? I've connected a standard OBD reader to the car, and there are no fault codes stored. Here's a video of it happening: Any thoughts?
  10. Yep, the gold standard for the job would be to drain the oil cooler at the same time, and also replace the oil filter. In reality, changing 90% of the oil for fresh oil should give you most of the benefit. If you then change it again once it's been mixed up for a couple of months you'll then more or less have 99% fresh oil anyway. That should be more than enough to keep the gearbox nice and healthy.
  11. @Bravo73 The gearbox oil pump is electric and is only turned on when the car sees an oil temperature above 100°C and the speed is above 25mph.
  12. @cuprapw I did indeed make a handcrafted dipstick, but really just as a sanity check. The problem being that in the service notes you manually run the oil pump for a while, then let it settle for 5 minutes before taking the reading. This means some oil will definitely be in the cooler loop before you take the measurement. Obviously I don't have the ability to do that. What I did was measure out the amount of oil I'd drained out, and then replace the exact same amount back in. (This was exactly 3 litres) The 'dipstick check' showed a level that was maybe a few millimetres higher than the services notes suggested, which would make sense if I didn't have as much oil in the cooler loop. The service notes say level should be 60 - 45mm below the casing, and I think mine was 40mm.
  13. Thanks for the help everyone. Got home tonight, sprayed a tiny bit of penetrating oil around the area (to try and lubricate the o-ring), gave it a little twist, and then it pulled out with virtually no effort. 🙂
  14. @Seriouslylotus Ok, cheers. I’ll give it another go tomorrow then with a bit more effort. 🙂 Out of curiosity, when it does happen, in what way does the plug break? Are you left with part of it in the gearbox? And if so how the the hell do you get it out without taking the box off?
  15. @Seriouslylotus Thanks for the quick response mate. The plug is rotating in the box. Well I assume so, as I could see the retaining piece that the fixing bolt goes through rotating. I guess that part is fixed to the plug? So in theory it should just pull out with enough force? It doesn’t help that it’s not exactly easy to get to is it! To be honest, if that piece is easy to break I might just put it all back together for now. I’ve got a track day next week, so don’t want to risk making the car undriveable.
  16. I'm attempting to change the gearbox oil on my 410, and I've got a bit stuck. On cars with an oil cooler, the procedure is a bit different to the non cooled cars. You need to remove the oil return pipe and plug from the top of the gearbox. The Lotus Service Notes state to remove the M6 securing screw (which I've done) and then "With the return hose still connected carefully withdraw the return plug from the casing" Never mind carefully, I can't withdraw the bloody thing pulling on it fairly hard. I can rotate it slightly left to right, so it IS free to move. But when I try and pull it out it doesn't move at all. I've put a fair amount of effort in, but maybe not 100%. Has anyone else done this? Was yours just the same? Do I just need to be stronger? Any help appreciated. Thanks.
  17. It's been a little while since I updated this thread, but not much has really happened other than a couple of track days. I did make one further tweak to the rear view mirror, as there was still parts of it that were pointless height wise. I basically masked up a bigger mirror so that the size perfectly matched the area worth looking at. The best comparison of original, version 1, and version 2 is stills from my track videos, as the camera is always in the same place. Forward visibility is much improved, and I can see just as much behind as I could with the OEM mirror. I went to Cadwell Park on 24th May, and it was one of the quietest track days I've ever been on. There were only around 30 cars present. Weather forecast was terrible, which may have had something to do with it. In the end, it only started raining properly at 5pm. I had loads of clear laps, and managed to improve last years time by over 2 seconds. Last week I was back at Snetterton. This was a very mixed day weather wise. Wet, dry, wet and then dry again. No problems all day, and I managed to improve my Snetterton best by a fraction. As it was a Javelin day, I've got a few photos with needing to pay an arm and leg for them. I met up with my friend Viren who I met last year at Donington. He's got an Exige 350 with Alias23 intake, 1-way Nitrons and Cup2 tyres. We had a few good sessions together, and I don't think there's much speed difference in a straight line between a 350 with Alias intake and 410! Our sessions together were in mixed conditions, getting drier as each one went on. Other than that, not much to report. Car is working well, and I'm having lots of fun. Next week is Brands Hatch GP circuit with Lotus on Track. I'm hoping for good weather, as my rear Cup2's are now down to around 3mm of tread...
  18. In summary: A guy who has the 2bular QP system recently had an issue where it failed at the resonator section and caused the rear of his car to catch fire. The wording in his write up suggested that Jim at 2bular had seen this before on race cars, so it wasn't an isolated incident. Jim was not very helpful by all accounts. It was also pointed out that the terms and conditions on 2bulars website state the warranty on the track exhaust is automatically invalidated if you use the exhaust on track! Now obviously there are plenty of people who have had no issues with these exhausts, but it's something to just be aware of. The guy in question does do a LOT of track miles, so it may be less of a concern if you only plan on doing a few a year.
  19. Yeah. I mean, sometimes things fail. It happens. The part that I think is more concerning is the implication that this wasn’t actually a one off. The fact that the warranty on a track exhaust isn’t valid if the exhaust is used on track is almost funny.
  20. @Mitch Foden-Clarke I don’t really know the details, but It looks like the resonator section snapped, with the pipe coming away from it. I’m also guessing at that point the very hot exhaust gasses were being directed on to parts of the car which could catch fire?
  21. Ah, I wasn't aware of that. But it's not 'useless' is it? If you're interested you just need to join the group and then look. It's not like joining the Masons, anyone will be accepted if you send a request.
  22. Basically, it caused his car to catch fire. And Jim wasn’t exactly sympathetic.
  23. I’m not sure I’d want to be running a 2bular track exhaust after what’s just happened to Eddie Cain!
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