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Paul_D

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Everything posted by Paul_D

  1. @DangerousDave With decent fluid you don’t really need to worry about heat transfer on these cars, you won’t be boiling it. In terms of noise, I just use 3M anti-squeal shims on my pads. Very cheap and can just be cut to shape.
  2. You may well be right, but I think George (being the photoshop genius that he is) would processed those photos in such a way that no possible clue is given.
  3. I’m surprised throttle isn’t there. Have a look for ECU PPS. (Pedal position sensor) Theres no brake %, but there should be a brake switch on/off log if it’s the same as the aftermarket AIM dash.
  4. A 'lot of time' is obviously relative, but my basis is purely from personal experience. I've been doing track days for lots of years now in a few different cars I've owned, two of which were PDK Porsches. There is virtually no power interruption or loss of speed during PDK gearchanges. The Lotus on the other hand does not have a gearbox in which you can rush changes in my experience. This is especially true going from 3rd to 4th and 4th to 5th. Looking at my AIM data (and other Exige videos), changing from 4th to 5th causes a drop in speed of 2-3mph during the change. That 2-3mph has to then be recovered once you're back on the power to get back to where you were. During that one change alone the Porsche has gained 4 to 6mph. Over a lap those changes will add up, but whether you consider that to be 'significant' or not is subjective. The PDK also makes it much easier for a non-professional (i.e. 99.9% of us) driver to brake much more consistently and accurately, not having to worry about heel and toe or taking one hand off the wheel when you're trail braking into the apex. This difference is obviously narrowed if you're a pro and you're not worried about mechanical sympathy in the slightest, but that's not most of the people on this forum. It's not scientific, but this magazine found the PDK GT4 to be 1.2 seconds a lap quicker than the manual. And I would argue that the GT4 box is much easier to shift quickly in than the Exige box. https://www.excellence-mag.com/issues/282/articles/automatically-better#:~:text=All in all%2C the PDK's,1%3A32.78). This article was a bit more technical and used VBOX data to analyse time lost, and claimed 0.9 seconds difference over a track only 2 miles long. https://www.roadandtrack.com/car-culture/a13442203/dual-clutch-vs-manual-on-track/
  5. That's an interesting question. The problem with comparing them to other cars from the perspective of track day drivers is that the driver can have far more of an effect than the car. That said, my gut feeling from being on track with them is that GT3 RS is quicker and a GT4 is probably in roughly the same ballpark if it's a manual car. PDK will save you a lot of time. As for 410 vs 430? I personally believe that there's very little difference between them. The tyres, brakes and suspension are obviously identical. The 430 has marginally more power, but I've compared videos on youtube, and even at a really long straight like at Snetterton the top speed difference is only 2 - 3 mph. Downforce - the 430 has a quoted figure of 220kg vs 150kg for the 410 . But that is probably quoted at top speed. The difference at real life fast cornering speeds 80 - 100mph is likely to be 30 or so kg? I'm not sure how many 'normal' trackday drivers would be able to notice or exploit that difference. It may or may not be significant that Hethel never posted the lap time for the 410... Having said that, I'd still have a 430 over a 410 if funds allowed. It's the top dog, and the most special out of all of them.
  6. Hmm...Are you sure? On the earlier cars I agree, but those box section type pieces added to the later cars do look they have been added to effectively replicate the lifting pucks that people use. I'm not sure what other purpose they would serve?
  7. I noticed that I was getting some vibrations once speed goes above 110 - 120mph, so I popped down my local tyre place today and got them to re-balance all four wheels. They said that all four needed a bit of a tweak, so hopefully it'll be an improvement. I also had a decided I may as well do a video of my best lap from Monday, even if the video is a bit rubbish because of the messed up settings. If it wasn't for having to brake early and gently into the second hairpin because of spilled fluid, I'm sure it would have been a personal best for me. Not braking into Coram now must be gaining me a reasonable amount of time. You can see the rear view camera signal being a bit flaky in this video. I assume it's because of all the radio transmissions around the circuit, because there was no flickering or anything during the drive home.
  8. @EX16FUN The front speakers are Focal 100AC. I got those just because everyone else seems to and they are tried and tested. I didn’t go for matching rear speakers, but got some Rockford Fosgate R1525X2 ones instead. They seemed a good balance of performance vs price.
  9. As far as I’m aware, the Pioneer is the only ‘flip’ screen still on the market. Other single din options are now a fixed screen that is permanently in place. I’ve personally got the Pioneer unit fitted. Yes, it blocks the centre vents and yes it hits the indicator stalk. I’m not that bothered about the vents really. You’ve still got the side vents, and I have the HVAC set to windscreen all the time anyway. The indicator also isn’t an issue for me personally as I leave the screen permanently out. The screen will go past the indicator if you hold the indicator fully down and ‘guide’ the screen past it. I fitted a wireless CarPlay dongle to mine and overall I love the set up now. I also have the active subwoofer you mentioned. It’s great. Far more powerful than you would need. I’ve had to turn the gain down to balance it out with the normal speakers. (And I’ve got rear speakers fitted as well as front ones)
  10. @Cemil Tacir Thanks. My best lap of the day was a 2:11.75 in one of the last sessions, which is slightly slower than my previous best. There was a fluid spill at the second hairpin after lunch, so needed to be very slow through that section later on. This is from a previous day, and would have been in the 2:10.xxx without the traffic at the end:
  11. Seeing as I cocked up the GoPro setting for the front camera, thought I'd make a slightly different video using the rear camera as the main view. Not a fast session, but it's my garage mate in the BMW compact race car, so thought he'd like it. (This was obviously before his entire exhaust fell off)
  12. Unfortunately our pads are relatively rare. For the front pads: The Caliper is AP Racing CP6600 D55 Mclaren 570S, 540C, 570GT, 650S / Spyder, 675LT, MP4-12C use them as a REAR pad. For the rear pads: The caliper is 'I think' AP Racing CP6627 D51 No other car in the Pagid catalogue uses the same rear pads. Why are you looking to fit titanium backing plates?
  13. Had my first track day of the year at Snetterton on Monday. Thankfully it was all fairly uneventful and a great day. Static noise test completed, and I was given a reading of 98dB which gives me a bit more confidence in the ability of my add on exhaust. There have been two main changes to the car since my last track day. The first was the adjustment to the accelerator pedal, and I was really happy with the difference this has made. Heel and Toe on the downchanges is now far far easier. I'm not saying I've perfected it yet, but I was able to do it to some degree pretty much all of the time. The second change was the Pagid RSL29 brake pads. These have got FAR more initial bite than the standard pads. I was hitting the pedal far to hard at first, and kicking the ABS in all the time. They took some getting used to, but were still as effective at the end of the day as they were on the first lap. The brake did however get very 'grumbly', with some quite severe vibrations at one point. There were quite significant pad deposits on the disc. These gradually went away over the course of the day, and maybe it was caused by me not bedding them in properly? He's a photo of how the rear discs looked mid way through the day: Other than that, the day went very smoothly. There were a few red flags in the afternoon, but mainly for mechanical reasons. This included my garage mate in a BMW who had his entire exhaust system fall off onto the track! The main problem I had was with my rear GoPro giving SD card errors, and the front GoPro accidentally being set to something that gave a weird panning effect round corners. A nice young bloke at the track took a few photos and sent to me.
  14. No, I'm afraid there isn't a heavy metal piece behind the head unit which can save more weight. The total weight of it will be very similar to the 1.06kg in that link, as most single DIN head units are similar. (I've replaced the head unit twice in the last 12 months, and there's definitely nothing more to it). The standard speakers are even cheaper and lighter than the ones in the link. If you left the standard wiring in place and only removed the front speakers and head unit I'd bet money that the total weight reduction would be between 1.4 and 1.7kg. It's certainly not enough that you're going to notice a difference when driving, so unless you were trying to remove every last gram from the car you'd probably be better off keeping the luxury of a stereo. (Unless it was a track only car of course, in which case you may as well take it out)
  15. @Cemil Tacir Which bits do you think will be heavier? Here's a random Clarion head unit specification: https://www.clarion.com/gb/en/products-personal/audio/CZ315E/specification/index.html#Fm-1Anchor It's 1.06kg. The speakers are very cheap 4" ones, so here's a random JVC 4" speaker: https://uk.jvc.com/car-entertainment/10cm-speakers/CS-J410X/ The speakers are 0.22kg each without the grills. That's pretty much all there is to the Lotus stereo system. Even if you ripped out the wiring as well, there's not much of it between the head unit and speakers.
  16. @Cemil Tacir I don't 'know' how much it weighs, but it won't be much. It's a bog standard head unit, and a couple of tiny speakers. (Along with minimal wiring) 1kg for the headunit? 500g for both speakers?
  17. Another cosmetic modification done yesterday, but one which makes a massive difference to the look of the car. I was very fortunate to pick up a pair of Hell Slow Carbon Fibre mirrors second hand from Jon Seal Sportscars. These don't come up for sale second hand very often, and I just happened to be looking at my phone when the advert went up. Before: To remove the old mirrors you need to take out three bolts. Simple in theory, fiddly in practice and very easy to drop the bolts inside the door. (What would be even more annoying is if you got all the bolts done, and then dropped the Allen Key in, but who'd be stupid enough to do that...) Size comparison of the old and new mirrors: Next I had to make a decision, as the mirrors only use two of the original mounting holes. Some people just put a small bung in the old hole. I wasn't sure if I liked this look, but my mind was made up by the indentations made in the paint by the original mirror. I used some 3M matt black vinyl wrap to cover the hole and the imperfect paintwork. Then it's just a case of bolting the mirror on. Here's a half and half photo for comparison: And the finished product: Now there's no getting away from the fact that these mirrors aren't cheap (high quality, low production products never are). But equally, the difference these make to the look of the car is incredible. Once Lotus got into the realms of £80k+ Exiges, this is something that they really should have produced themselves. I was lucky enough to pay less than full price, but now I've seen what a difference they make I think they are well worth the outlay. An added bonus is that the field of view is much better with these mirrors, so you could use a bit a man maths to justify it as a safety improvement...
  18. Yes, but ONLY if ‘Race’ is also illuminated on the display. Once in ‘Race’ mode, if you hold down the button again, the stability (ESP) light will stay on, but the Race light will turn off. (Or display ‘Normal’ on an AIM dash) This shows that everything is now off. The reason that the stability light comes on with Race mode is that the ESP intervention is significantly reduced and it’s perfectly possible to lose control. This is especially true before the system has ‘learned’ the grip level of the circuit. @DangerousDave It’s also worth reading the sticky post at the top of this section called TLF on DPM. It gives a good explanation as to what Race mode actually does.
  19. @Toqcars Yeah, I’ve got everything ready to go, but I’m still expecting to drop at least one bolt! 🤣
  20. Wow, those photos are great. Car looks amazing. The mirrors look fantastic too. I've got a set waiting to go on, and I'm dying to fit them!
  21. The car can't measure brake pressure. It knows the brake is being depressed, and there are two stages for this. But both of these stages are operated well in advance of 'heavy' braking. The AIM dash data logging allows you to see both brake switch traces. I think one is called Brk Switch Light, and the other other is Brk Switch ECU (Or something like that) With regards to the clutch pedal, I believe this is just a single stage switch which operates when the clutch is fully depressed. As for my personal experience, no matter what I've done on the road or track I've never had the car take itself out of Race mode.
  22. I’ve been through every parameter that the AIM dash sees, and unfortunately tyre pressure isn’t on there. I’ll definitely stay on the CUP2 tyres. I’ve been very impressed with them, both in terms of their performance and the wear rate. If anything, the wear rate on track is the most impressive aspect.
  23. As long as doesn't display any messages when all tyre pressures are good I'm not really too bothered about it to be honest. With regards to your other point, I wish someone would develop a little display that allows you to see the tyre pressures live. The tyre pressure sensors are the exact same ones used on the Evora, and it displays the tyre pressure on the dash. I'm not sure if most pressure sensors use a standard frequency and code, but it would be nice to have a little box which could receive the signals and display them. I guess there's not much of a market to develop it. Most cars which have a tyre sensor system built in probably already have the ability to display it on the dash. When my tyres need replacing, I'll be very tempted to get the Michelin Track Connect system.
  24. I’m pretty sure mine has done the same at the very start of a session when the tyres pressures are low. Sometimes it says TPMS fault, other times it will say a specific tyre is low. Could it be that if it sees multiple low tyre pressures it thinks there is a system fault?
  25. I agree. The brakes generally are great, it’s just about finding a pad which you’re happy with. The standard pads do work pretty well, even on track, but there’s no denying their lack of bite. A fair few people have fitted the PF08 pads, but some have found them to be quite aggressive on the discs. I’ve just fitted some Pagid RS29 all round. I’ve found them great on previous cars, so hopefully they’ll be the same on the Exige. Got my first track day of the year on the 28th Feb, so will see how they compare.
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