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Everything posted by Paul_D

  1. Can I ask why you're upgrading so soon? The only difference in the the 410/430 brakes is the disc used, and even then they're the same diameter.
  2. @Toqcars Well in typical fashion... while the car was up in the air, it all worked perfectly. Good connection and stable picture. I started the engine and there was no interference. Yesterday evening when I moved the car after it was back on the ground it seemed to struggle to get an initial connection, and then had the odd flicker on the screen. I'm going to try moving the transmitter to a different location, possibly into the battery compartment using a little extension lead. In theory I could have used the same system to have the picture on the AIM dash. In fact, Elise-shop sell those transmitters with the correct connector already fitted: Personally I would rather have it on the head unit screen, as it means I can use it as a rear view mirror whilst still being able to see my speed etc.
  3. The new head unit has an option for a reversing camera, which is something that I've always fancied. The trouble is that running a cable from the back of the car to the front seems like a bit of a ball ache, and quite frankly I wasn't sure if I could be bothered. I had the thought that there must be something out there that can send the signal wirelessly, and a quick bit of Googling found this: I then had a look for a suitable camera. I believe this one is what gets supplied by AIM for the digital dash, but it's a lot cheaper on Amazon... I fitted the receiver part of the transmitter to the headunit when I installed it, so it's just been sitting there waiting for me to fit the camera. I needed to get the rear diffuser off, and it was a perfect opportunity to test my new 2-piece wheel cribs from race ramps. They are expensive for what they are, but they are very light and you can get the car high enough to completely crawl underneath. I fitted the camera in the usual place, on the trim piece between the reversing sensors. The camera came with the correct size hole saw included. I cable tied the wiring to the existing reversing sensor cables. The transmitter is mounted to the inside of the clam near the back wheel using heavy duty velcro. If I need to try and move it around because of signal break up, I can. The final job is to get power to it. Luckily, the reversing sensor cable goes straight up through a grommet into the battery area, so I pulled the cable through there. The wiring on the transmitter cable is quite thin, so I soldered it to so better quality stuff which had a ring crimp for the earth, and a tap-a-fuse for the power. This easily allowed me to connect it to a source which only comes on with the ignition. And that's it for the installation. The only part of the car you need to take off is the diffuser. Job jobbed. I haven't connected the head unit to a reversing signal, so it won't come on automatically. But turning the screen to camera just involves a single button press, so that's no big deal. I can also have the rear view turned on at any time when driving along.
  4. Congratulations. Lovely car - colour and spec are great.
  5. It definitely shouldn’t do that. Was it the radio AND cage both coming out together? If so, you’ll need to slide the radio out of the mounting cage, and see if there are more tabs on the cage you can bend down to keep it in place.
  6. I thought one of the advantages of the liteblox was that you could turn it off using the app. Effectively replicating a physical kill switch for when you want leave the car for long periods? I don’t know what the capacity is compared to the Super B lithium batteries, but mine lasts much longer than a week without the car being driven.
  7. This is very un-Lotus type update, but it's only a quick one. A lot of people fit new stereo equipment and because it sounds far better than the previous setup they just leave it as is. But the decent heads units come with a fair few settings to make things improve even further. I thought I'd have a little play around and see how good the new system could get. Firstly I set up the crossover frequencies. For the front and rear speakers this blocks out very low frequencies. For the sub it blocks out high frequencies. To set these I first moved the fader to front speakers only. Turned up some music and then blocked out more and more of the lower frequencies until the distortion went away. The 4" front speakers are not designed to handle bass. I then did the same with the rear. As they are bigger you can allow slightly lower frequencies through. Finally I set the sub to what I thought was reasonable based on its frequency response. I ended up with these settings. Next there is an option to set the time alignment. In theory this makes it sounds as if the music is right in front of you by slightly delaying the sound from the speakers close to you. You just have to input the distance from your head to each speaker. Anyone with the same car can obviously copy these values as they should be the same. The final thing to do was a bit more geeky. I used the Equaliser to tweak the frequency response and make sure the range was good all the way through. To do this I used an app called Octave RTA. This gives a real time indication of how loud each frequency is, and you can see any significant dips or gaps. You have to play something called pink noise on the stereo to do this. You're not necessarily looking for a perfectly flat curve, as it is partly to personal taste. After a bit of tweaking with both the EQ and the speaker levels (I had to reduce the sub, it was too far powerful) I ended up with what I think is a pretty good response. For those who wonder how much difference a tiny active sub makes, here's the response with the sub set to OFF, with no other changes. Overall I'm really pleased with the result. Obviously an Exige is never going to sound amazing (especially once moving), but just sat on the drive it is actually pretty impressive.
  8. Well, if you will insist on driving around naked...
  9. @miniwog You're right, that is a bit of an annoyance. It used to be called Spot Metering on the earlier GoPros, and it was an option you could leave on automatically. The exposure would be set using the centre of the view, rather than the entire scene. In a car, having the exposure set using the entire scene generally results in the interior looking great, and the important outside view being a massively over exposed bright mess. On the newer GoPro it's called Exposure Control and you have to turn it on every time you power up by holding your finger on the screen. It can't even be turned on using the app. Quite inconvenient if your camera is mounted on a harness bar. For me personally it's only a minor issue though. I don't want to worry about battery life, so I have the GoPro connected to the 12v socket all day. Get to the track day, plug in GoPro, turn on exposure control, mount it on the harness bar and then leave it powered up the rest of the day. With the Hero 8 it even has voice control, so I don't even need to reach over and press the button. Get strapped in, helmet on, and then just say "GoPro, start recording".
  10. @tactical lizard I ended up getting the nuts from Elise parts. Can’t remember exactly why, but I think they were the best option with the 17mm hex and in black.
  11. When I had the roof off to fit the harness bar and rear speakers I took it out for a couple of drives, and it was great. Unfortunately I don't have a soft top, so taking the roof off to go for a drive and then putting it back on when I get home is a bit too much of a pain.
  12. Just a different front grill / number plate arrangement that the 410 and 430 have always had. I modified mine so the front plate can be held on with Velcro. Makes it quick to take off on track days to fit the tow hook.
  13. I think the options are limited due to the sizes. The fronts are a relatively narrow higher profile tyre on a 17” wheel. The rears are very wide low profile on a an 18” wheel. That combination means there aren’t many models of tyre available in both sizes.
  14. I’ve actually been very impressed with the CUP2 tyres. Plenty of grip on the road, and really good with low wear rates on track. Obviously cold and wet conditions aren’t their strength, but they still felt ok driving to work in near freezing conditions. Unless I had a separate set of winter wheels, I don’t think I’d want to swap the CUP2’s for anything else.
  15. That’s a bloody good point that I hadn’t even considered. My roof is always on. I reckon I’d also want the warm air directly in my face if the roof was off.
  16. Yeah, that’s fair enough, but I’m a bit surprised that anyone is that bothered about the central vents to be honest. My HVAC set permanently to ‘windscreen’, and I find the cabin is so small it gets warm quickly anyway. I drove to work in the Exige this morning, and even with temps at 3 degrees I didn’t give a thought to the centre vents being partially blocked.
  17. I forgot about this thread. I spent a fair bit of time looking through this when I was searching for a car. Just to add to the collection for others people reference: CYAN BLUE - Paint code 8W9
  18. Today I changed the stereo head unit in the car. (Yes, I know I only fitted one a few months ago) The previous Pioneer was quite a clever unit, but after regularly using the Apple Carplay unit in my daily driver the Pioneer felt a bit 'clunky' in terms of user interface. Like a few other Lotus owners, I decided to fit a Pioneer AVH-Z7000 flip screen head unit. I wanted a unit with wireless Apple Carplay but this wasn't supported as standard by the Pioneer. After a bit of research, I ordered a Carlinkit wireless dongle. This attaches to the headunits USB port instead of the USB extension cable. I first checked it out on the bench to make sure everything worked ok. Success. Then it was just a case of swapping the head units over. In theory this should have been simple. I didn't even need to change any wiring as the same connector is used on the old and new units. The problem was simply space. The AVH-Z7000 has a separate box for the aerial connections. I also had the Carlinkit dongle. Trying to get all of this shoved in behind the head unit was awkward, but I got there in the end with some 'persuasion'. I'm not sure what state everything is in behind there, but it's all working. Overall I'm really pleased with the AVH-Z7000. Having Apple Carplay on a nice big screen will be great, both for music and navigation. It's also nice having a 'proper' volume knob rather than push buttons. Yes, the screen catches on the indicator stalk unless you hold it out of the way, but then I would want the screen up all of the time anyway so it's not an issue.
  19. Last week I decided to start booking my 2022 track days. I'm really missing doing them, so I've decided to book a couple of days early in the year and risk the weather. I've got Snetterton on 28th Feb, and Bedford on 21st march. If the weather is really bad it's not the end of the world as the trackdays are cheap that time of year. With that in mind, I needed to do a couple of quick jobs. 1) Replace the rear pads, and give the rear discs a bit of a clean while I'm at it. As well as the disc needing a bit of a clean, the drum area was a bit corroded After a quick honing and wire brushing Discs refitted with new pads. 2) The other thing I wanted to do was swap the wheels over from left to right. The left tyres wear more quickly as most tracks are clockwise, so I wanted to even things up a bit to maximise tyre life. The problem with the Exige, is that doing this is actually a bit of a pain. Because the centre jacking point lifts the entire side of the car up, you effectively will end up with all four wheels in the air once and the car 'balancing'. To get around this, I purchased a set of hub stands so that I can lower one side back to the ground without the wheels on it. Getting all four wheels off at once is now quick and easy. The stands should easily take the weight of the car, but I did keep my second jack there to take some of the load as a precaution.
  20. @Brendonian I just checked my photos from the install, and I’m 99.9% certain that it doesn’t matter as the LED is dead centre. 👍
  21. @Brendonian Yep, the blade just needs to be as vertical as possible so the leds are facing left/right rather than up/down. As far as I’m aware the leds are perfectly central, so it doesn’t matter which side is ‘top’, if that makes sense.
  22. I'm afraid I can't remember what size it is. Maybe 2mm or 3mm? It's a good excuse to buy a nice allen key set!
  23. There is a small allen headed screw either side of the bulb, which locates in the plastic 'teeth' around the holder. Use a small allen key to screw those inwards, and you will be able to rotate the bulb in relation to the holder. Because of the way the teeth align, you won't get perfectly 90 degrees rotation, but its close enough.
  24. In theory it should be the same, as long as the 3rd party exhaust is valved in the same way and simply connects to the existing vacuum pipe and remains controlled by the standard ECU.
  25. I definitely don't have all the knowledge! I've just picked most things up from others on this forum really. There's a few other simple things I've done, but they're not necessarily things others would want to do. My full 'project' thread is here if you want to see everything I've personally done:
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