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Posts posted by Paul_D

  1. 5 hours ago, lueysgarage said:

    Can someone with LED lights fitted (preferbly with the Philips LED bulbs) check for me if you have the ignition on but the engine is off, does your front left blinker not work properly? Like the indicator ticks really fast and there's no front left indicator light?

    For some reason mine is doing that but its fine when the engine is on, indicators work perfectly? Not 100% sure if its because of the LED bulbs though?

    That's a very strange thing to happen. In my head I can't really understand what could possibly cause that. I certainly don't see how the headlamps could affect it. Is it only the left side?

    I could try the same on my car for you when I get home, but as I have the GRP lights with ballast resistors my overall circuit load will be slightly different to yours. 

  2. Due to the supply issues, it's worth keeping an eye on ebay at the moment.

    My rears aren't quite ready for replacement, but it won't be too much longer. I managed to get a pair of 285/30/18 Cup2's (with 5mm of tread left) off ebay for £200.  I wouldn't normally look for used tyres, but these are unusual circumstances.

    At the time there was also a single brand new tyre for sale. If you start looking far enough in advance you may be lucky.

  3. On Thursday at Brands Hatch my car had a problem in one of the sessions, and I wonder if anyone had experienced similar.

    Coming out of a corner, I tried to accelerate and there was no power at all. I slowed down slightly and the car would accelerate back up to 4000rpm and then stop, so it was obviously in some sort of limp mode.

    There were absolutely no lights on the dash to indicate that anything was wrong. I cruised back to the pits, and after I'd left the car a while and restarted it the fault was gone. I did two more sessions, and a 120 mile journey home with no problems.

    A fellow owner reminded me that the brake light switch can cause problems....BUT, my car was still in Sport mode when I got back to the pits. I thought issues with the brake switch kicked you out of Sport mode? Or is that not always the case?

    I've connected a standard OBD reader to the car, and there are no fault codes stored.

    Here's a video of it happening:

    Any thoughts? 

  4. Yep, the gold standard for the job would be to drain the oil cooler at the same time, and also replace the oil filter.

    In reality, changing 90% of the oil for fresh oil should give you most of the benefit. If you then change it again once it's been mixed up for a couple of months you'll then more or less have 99% fresh oil anyway.  That should be more than enough to keep the gearbox nice and healthy.

    • Like 1
  5. @cuprapw

    I did indeed make a handcrafted dipstick, but really just as a sanity check. The problem being that in the service notes you manually run the oil pump for a while, then let it settle for 5 minutes before taking the reading. This means some oil will definitely be in the cooler loop before you take the measurement. Obviously I don't have the ability to do that.

    What I did was measure out the amount of oil I'd drained out, and then replace the exact same amount back in. (This was exactly 3 litres)

    The 'dipstick check' showed a level that was maybe a few millimetres higher than the services notes suggested, which would make sense if I didn't have as much oil in the cooler loop. The service notes say level should be 60 - 45mm below the casing, and I think mine was 40mm. 

  6. @Seriouslylotus Thanks for the quick response mate.

    The plug is rotating in the box. Well I assume so, as I could see the retaining piece that the fixing bolt goes through rotating. I guess that part is fixed to the plug?

    So in theory it should just pull out with enough force? It doesn’t help that it’s not exactly easy to get to is it! 

    To be honest, if that piece is easy to break I might just put it all back together for now. I’ve got a track day next week, so don’t want to risk making the car undriveable. 


  7. I'm attempting to change the gearbox oil on my 410, and I've got a bit stuck.

    On cars with an oil cooler, the procedure is a bit different to the non cooled cars. You need to remove the oil return pipe and plug from the top of the gearbox.

    The Lotus Service Notes state to remove the M6 securing screw (which I've done) and then "With the return hose still connected carefully withdraw the return plug from the casing"

    Never mind carefully, I can't withdraw the bloody thing pulling on it fairly hard. I can rotate it slightly left to right, so it IS free to move. But when I try and pull it out it doesn't move at all. I've put a fair amount of effort in, but maybe not 100%.

    Has anyone else done this? Was yours just the same? Do I just need to be stronger?

    Any help appreciated.


  8. 13 minutes ago, Hickster said:

    Hopefully the 2Bular will do the trick.But as I don’t do Facebook you have got me worried.

    In summary:

    A guy who has the 2bular QP system recently had an issue where it failed at the resonator section and caused the rear of his car to catch fire.

    The wording in his write up suggested that Jim at 2bular had seen this before on race cars, so it wasn't an isolated incident. Jim was not very helpful by all accounts. It was also pointed out that the terms and conditions on 2bulars website state the warranty on the track exhaust is automatically invalidated if you use the exhaust on track!

    Now obviously there are plenty of people who have had no issues with these exhausts, but it's something to just be aware of. The guy in question does do a LOT of track miles, so it may be less of a concern if you only plan on doing a few a year. 

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