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centauri

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  • Name
    Doug
  • Car
    1975 Elite

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  1. Brought my second Elite home recently, and while the paint and interior are quite nice all around, the car is in great need mechanically, with a non-running engine, squishy brakes, a left rear wheel that only rolls forwards(!), and even a few (gasp...) pliable rusty areas of the frame . So it will be a long haul, but I figured worth it for the completeness of the rest of the car, at very least for the parts, or I may just combine it with my first one which has rougher body and interior but is otherwise solid and running. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1975-lotus-elite/ For now though, I just want to solve the puzzle of the broken rear liftgate glass release. Even with the release cable fully extended, it seems practically bolted to the latch and won't pry up. Does anyone know any special tricks to accessing this area, since the glass behind the back seat seals it off?
  2. Thanks Thomas! A small C-clamp with a socket over the pin head worked like a charm. My diff assembly is now on the floor ready for a refresh, the cables and boots are unharmed. Great to learn new tricks!!
  3. Hello from California. I'm refreshing the brakes on my '77 Elite 504. Workshop manual states the rear differential must come down for access to the rear cylinders. Hit a snag on the right side, the clevis pin connecting the cable to the cylinder arm won't budge after removing the cotter pin. I've soaked it in penetrating oil, hammered it from below with a punch, pried with a small screwdriver. The joint swivels but the pin just won't slide up more than a millimeter. I can get vice grips on it from below but then, no room to rotate the tool. Access to this area is extremely tight, so went ahead and disconnected the diff everywhere else, now its propped up on jacks, hoping a bit of room to work would help, but it didnt buy me much, and it's still stuck fast. I started Dremeling from the top but there's just not room to make safe or accurate cuts. I'm afraid to use heat for the same reason, it's too cramped a space, hard to reach and close to the fiberglass. Is there anywhere else I can disconnect to get the diff assembly loose? Or a tool or trick that might help with this? If I do ultimately have the cut the cable, are there replacements? I see 4 bolts around the inner shaft, does this mean can the rear brakes be fully rebuilt with the diff still on the frame, or am I doing things the recommended way?
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