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About Lance

  • Birthday 12/04/1961

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    Type75 Elite

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  1. Hooray!!!!! I have the car back on it's wheels. I had some flexible brakes pipes made locally with a shorter swaged end. This made getting the diff back in MUCH easier. I guess it might be possible to do it with the long ones, but I'm much happier with the short ones. The bend of the hose when in place is a bigger radius. I have made panels to cover the access holes in the body and put the seats back in. So now all I have to do put some weight in the boot, tighten the the suspension bolts and take it for drive. Thanks for all advice along the way. Lance.
  2. So some more progress: I decided trying to balance the diff on a single trolley jack was not going to work. As has been noted elsewhere in these forums the diff weighs about 67 tons. I'm not keen to drop that as I would be under it. So I have built a diff dolly. There are 3 small jacks on an MDF base with caster wheels underneath. There are 'C' cups welded to the top of each jack to hold the diff securely. They are made of sectioned nuts from 2" irrigation pipe. This allows the diff to placed in almost any orientation and to easily be moved in any direction. All this without worrying about dropping it. With this setup I was able to move the diff into place and tilt it to get the pipes on one side over the chassis frame and secure the flexible pipe in the chassis. I was then able to slide the diff sideways and jack up the other side. This is where the problem begins. It is not possible to move the diff far enough across to get the other side pipes to clear the chassis. I think the cause of this is the solid part of the new flex pipes is about twice as long as the originals. I'm going to get some news ones made locally with shorter hard ends like the originals. I think once I have these the diff will have enough lateral movement to get the pipes of both sides over the chassis. Once this is done it should be (relatively) easy to finish fitting the diff. Once I get the new pipes I'll try again. Lance.
  3. A bit cooler today and laying on the cool concrete floor was quite nice for a while. I am having trouble getting the diff back up into the chassis. I have pre fitted the new flexible brake pipes before putting the diff in the car. I can't see how I can get them past the chassis as the diff is raised. There is another post somewhere in these forums that says the diff must be rolled to clear each side. I think this will get the bleed extension pipe around the chassis, but the flex pipes stick out a lot further. I have attached a couple of photos taken through the holes in the body. But if I take them off then fit the diff I can't see how I could screw them back in the cylinders. So my question is: Should the flex pipes be fitted before or after the diff is in position?
  4. I have managed to get a bit further along since November. I have ground down the tall collar to be similar to the original. Then I machined the other one down and did the other side. Much easier! I then had a problem fitting the rear diff cover. The gasket I ordered with the new seals and bearings was the wrong size!!!! So I got some gasket paper and cut out one that fits. Not a major problem, but when you buy parts from a specialist you expect them to fit. Anyway the diff is reassembled with new brakes, and I've added a breather to the rear cover as suggested. It should all be ready to go back in the car. I'm just waiting for the weather to cool down bit before I try fitting it back. Happy new year to all. Lance.
  5. Well, I have lost the first leg. I got the collar up to 360C. But not for as long as I would have liked. The thermal fuse on my oven blew after about 20 minutes. The collar slipped easily over the splines, which it would not do cold, so I quickly pressed it down on the bearing. So far so good. I put the assembly back in the housing. Yes that O ring is a bit of fiddle. I thought I had pinched it so I back off a bit to check, it was fine, until I jiggled it and it fell off! About half an hour later I had it back in place. The problem appeared once the bolts were tight. The output shaft was locked solid. @^#%!^@&#*@!!!!!! I compared the old collar with the unused new one and the new one is about 1.2mm longer. Just enough to bind up on the housing. I am contacting the supplier for assistance. Next time I'll use a flame to heat the collar and I'm sure I'll win the next leg, even if it comes down to penalties. At least I know the O ring went wasn't pinched and I'm certainly glad I decided to do one side at a time.
  6. Ah, the manual actually says 363 C. Yes that's a long way off red. And yes I'd hate to get it half way on. That's why I'm doing one side at a time. Perhaps I'll just see how hot my oven will go. Win, loose or draw I'll post some photos. Lance.
  7. Hi Pete, I have bought all the parts to replace the bearings and seals. I was about to start reassembly when the grease question came up. My plan is: Press the new bearings on making sure I put the retaining plate on first (new seal). Then heat the collar in a small oven I use for reflow soldering. It should be able to get to the required 330 deg. I can measure the temperature with a thermocouple. I'll let the collar soak for an hour or so. Once hot press the collar on. Hopefully I won't drop the hot collar. I got 6 O-rings, one would hope I have worked out how to fit them before using that many. I have bought enough parts to do both sides, but I am waiting until I get the first one right before taking the other side apart. How does that sound? What have I missed? Lance.
  8. Thanks Pete, from what I can see the brake booster needs to be undone before the pedal box can come out. If so this makes it a bit of a "catch 22". I had to remove the accelerator pedal to get access to the booster nuts. I think I have worked out a way to get the plastic bit back in, but then shaft on the accelerator pedal is too long go back in with one plastic bearing in place, which is why I took it out in the first place. At the risk of becoming a member of Dodgy Brothers Inc. I am going to leave my custom nylon bearing in place for a while. It properly supports the accelerator pedal shaft and can't come out with the accelerator pedal in place. I am about to put the output shafts back in the diff with new bearings, seals etc. Should I pack the bearings with grease first or put them in straight out of the bag?
  9. Hi, I am about to put the inner drive shafts back in my Elite. Before I put the new bearings back on the drive shaft should they be packed with grease or just put on out of the bag? The old ones did not appear to have any grease, but they had been there for many years. Thanks in advance, Lance.
  10. I think it's the trolley jack if I have to move it. This afternoon I put the refurbished brake booster back in. I wish I was a bit more flexible! I ended up taking the drivers seat out. After seeing how rusty the bolts were I was pleased how easily it came out. Laying on the floor made putting the booster in at least possible. It took me so long to find the hole in the brake peddle for the clevis pin I was worried it had healed up. Getting the R clip back in was very satisfying. Putting the accelerator peddle back in was another trial. I could not get the nylon bush on the transmission side back in place at all. I ended up making a new one that pushes in from the outside. It pushed against the transmission tunnel and the peddle shaft stops falling out the other side. If anyone has any hints on how to use the original bush I'd be pleased to hear them. It's still captive between the peddle box and the tunnel. The diff seals should be somewhere between the UK and Australia now. Once they arrive I'll start to reassemble the back end.
  11. Thanks Pete, I'm not going to risk making things worse, just thought I'd ask if it was possible.
  12. Now this is taking much longer than I first thought (surprise!!) I'd like to move the car back a couple of meters. The diff is out and the rear of the car is supported on jack stands. What happens if I put the wheels back on and lower it back down on the ground and push it back a bit? Will I break something?
  13. Breather, what breather? I can't say I have noticed one Pete. What does it look like? It turns out I do have an out put shaft oil leak, so off the shops again. This is going to take longer than I thought. It will be awhile before I can get far enough away from it to not see the cracks. It seems to me all 60's, 70's and some 80's cars are going for stupid money now. I bought my Stag in 1989 as my daily driver. It needed a bit of work and has been a rolling restoration. When I first got the idea to buy a Stag I thought; great a V8 convertible to tow the boat to the beach. The problem was back then it would over heat on hot days (fixed now) so the now wife ended up driving it on weekends while I took her car.
  14. Hi Dion, that's quite funny. Years ago, before I got my Elite I read an article in the English Lotus Club magazine that suggested the type of people who buy Elites are the same type as those who buy Stags!. It seems to be true. I wonder how many others there are? I got the diff out on the weekend. Unfortunately the drums where very wet inside and the shoes soaked. I am trying to work out if it was only brake fluid or if there was diff oil as well. The diff only had a little bit of oil missing and the cover gasket is weeping. I damaged a remote bleed line while taking it out and the other one would not come out of the cylinder, so I'll have to make a pair of those. Perhaps I should run them up to the drivers seat so I can bleed it by myself I have also had to order a set of shoes so it's not back together yet. I've tipped the diff on its side to see if any oil comes out of the seal. I don't know if this will prove anything. I guess I could prove there definitely is a leak, but probably not that there is not.
  15. I think I now all the bits to make it drivable again. The local brake specialist was able to rebuild the booster, so I don't have to worry about finding a replacement. Thanks for the advice Pete. I had read about the Land Rover option but had missed the series 1 series 2 fitment issue. Dioln, I had found a bit more of a rodent problem with car covers. They seem to like dark places. Also I had not thought it would stay still for so long when I parked there! The mirrors have a mechanical remote control system, well at least one of them does. One it would be nice to make that all work again. Are they not the normal mirrors? The paint is flaking off in other places. I bet if I tried to remove it all most of it would be well attached. Once its moving again I'll wash it and see if I can get good photo. So this weekends job is to fit the parts in the photo (optimistic?). I'm still not sure how to get the nuts back on the booster studs. I did find the holes I cut under the back seat essential in getting the rusted clevis pins out of the hand brake. Somewhere in these forums it was suggested to use a clamp and a small socket to press them out. I got lucky and managed to do it with a pair of multi grips, see photo. I glad I not try that from underneath. I'll try and replace them with stainless steel.
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