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  1. I'm wondering if the 907s found in US market Jensen-Healeys are identical to those found in the type 75 elite. I found a local JH cylinder head and would like to swap it over to my elite since my valves are bent, I'm wondering if this will give me problems down the line. Specifically, if the lotus intake/exhaust manifolds will mount in the same manner, and if the lotus cam towers are compatible with the JH head. Jensen Healeys are far more prevalent in N. America and cheap as dirt too. Hopefully the only difference is the logo on the cam covers.
  2. From front to back I got 105, 120, 75, 135. Definitely not great, but I was expecting zero compression with bent valves. Anyway I guess the head is coming off. Right now I'm trying to decide how much of this I'm going to do myself. I removed the head & lapped valves on a 2006 tacoma last year. This went well with no issues 20k miles later, and took me about two weeks including waiting for parts & the machine shop. The lotus seems more straightforward than that toyota, the only thing giving me pause is gaining access to separate the exhaust manifold. Can head removal be done without removing the engine or body?
  3. Had to think about it for a sec but this makes total sense. I cycled it through and it didn't look like any valves were getting hung up in the cylinder head, everything was smooth and normal. I then checked the valve clearances and things were close to spec - if anything, the intake valves were erring on the side of being too tight! The manual says 0.005-0.007in, a couple of mine were closer to 0.004. Exhaust side had a few on the loose side, but again pretty close to spec. I'm not as worried about the exhaust since the timing wasn't off on that side. Welp, now I'm getting cautiously optimistic that maybe the valves/head aren't damaged! A compression tester is in the mail and should arrive next week. I'll post the numbers here once I've got them! Also looks like I'm gonna be ordering some valve shims now...
  4. Update: timing was indeed off. I slid a thin piece of plastic between the belt and pulley so I could spin the intake cam independently from the rest of the engine. I set the crank at TDC, got the cam pulleys lined up looking something like the workshop diagram (also thanks to the pics on this thread), then removed the plastic again. Now the engine hand-rotates all the way without binding. Turns out the Intake cam was off by 8 teeth 😬 Next step, gonna buy a compression tester to see if the damage has already been done. I'm not getting my hopes up but I suppose there's always a small chance. Do you think the starter motor would have enough torque to bend valves, or is that more an internal combustion type force?
  5. Thanks everybody! I found the google drive with the scanned workshop manual and saw the above page in there. The lack of white/red/blue dots on the pulleys threw me off a little so I wanted to check online. My first impression is that the intake cam looks to be +/- 6 teeth off. Might try to loosen the belt and rotate just that pulley, then see if it allows me to rotate the engine any further.
  6. Hello, I'm the new owner of a 1975 Elite 503 - my first lotus and introduction into classic british vehicle ownership. The cosmetics suggest the car has spent its life well cared for, but it will need some "recommissioning" considering it was last on the road in 2006. My first and biggest concern is that something prevents the engine from rotating all the way by hand. My hope is that a pump or accessory is blocked, but I first want to make sure the cam timing is even set right. This is tricky since I only have a small range of motion and can't rotate the engine all the way to TDC. This attached video from the auction seller demonstrates the engine's limited range of motion. Here are some pictures I took. I hope there's enough information for someone experienced to tell if there's some top-end interference happening. Let me know if there's anything else I can supply
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