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Everything posted by Gray14

  1. Old fuel ? Loses it's combustibility after sitting in a tank for a while. Mine started so much easier with fresh fuel and some { Lucas ) octane booster.
  2. If you take the cover trim off the front of the standard steering wheel you should see its attached to the splined boss by 3 bolts. You could get a spacer made up to go behind here and attach with 3 longer bolts.
  3. If I remember correctly the original wheel is attached by 3 bolts to the splined steering wheel boss. With longer bolts could you get a spacer made up?
  4. Not sure what steering wheel you have fitted, but this is the steering wheel boss that I fitted to fit my Momo steering wheel. Gives about 2" standoff. I also fitted a fitting which allowed me to detach the steering wheel for added security, I park on a London street, and think the 1980s lock don't offer much security.
  5. My bet would be on the noise coming from the cable. If you can detach the cable from the back of the speedo and get some oil down the cable if this doesn't cure the squeak it'll just leave the speedo itself. Remove the trim to the gauges, unscrew the fascia to get access, just, the the back of the speedo. May be able to get access removing the trim above the footwell.
  6. My heater control is stuck on hot, making driving in this weather extra uncomfortable in the cabin. Can I close off the hot supply to the heater in the engine bay, with a hose clamp or something, without interfering with the engine cooling circuit and causing damage to the engine. Can someone please confirm this is the larger of the 2 pipes circled in the pic, coming out of the cylinder head close to the bulkhead.
  7. Hi, That's all the contact details I have for him. It could be he's away on holiday.
  8. Hi, After removing the 2 nuts holding the console in place it should loosen it up to be able to slightly turn it both ways so that the nuts holding the heater control in place can be accessed and loosened. The heater control cables are what are making it difficult to access.
  9. Excuse me jumping in but I’ve (just) “been there, (just) done that.” It’ll be the plastic straps holding the fibre optic lights in place that are stopping the switches coming out easily. In the centre console if you pull out the 2 air vents, just inside in the top corners are 2 retaining nuts (10mm IIRC) holding the console to the centre moulding. The vents are held in place by flat metal retainers and can be tricky to pull through the console plate. Take these off and it should release the console enough to remove the plastic straps surrounding the switches. These hold the fibre optic lights to the switches and need to be removed to be able to remove the switches from the console plate. It might be easier/looser if you disconnect the 4 nuts holding the heater controls panel, 1 in each corner. They switches on mine just pulled through easily. Fibre optic cables available on ebay which is also where I sourced some ‘Fablon’ wood grain sticky back plastic. Drawing below shows location of nuts as small circles
  10. @Gray14, please post your ads for free in our classifieds, link at the top of the page. Thanks, Bibs.
  11. hi Jono, Here's pics of one I bought off ebay recently, with pic of underside showing fixing method to orientate gear badge. Just measured it 45mm dia plus varnish. Think its mahogany.
  12. Mike, that's ingenious, please let us know how they are when fitted.
  13. What was the name of the film?
  14. That reads: Sorry for the late reply, I bought a motor from the TR7 - it's identical in construction, but it doesn't work because of the electrical system. No problem - I have one in reserve for my TR 7. My headlights are working again - the only fault was a contact error in the cable connection Helmut
  15. I was in the Lotus position all last week and on my 1981 Eclat S2 its attached to the underside of the steering column above the horizontal finisher above the drivers side footwell.
  17. Hi Phil, Thanks v much, I think I'll be able to manage with that information. Cheers. Graham
  18. Hi Phil, Nice condition Elite and picture. I've been following this clutch improvement thread with interest and plan to do this on my Eclat. Did you need to cut the clutch cable to shorten it or does it work with the standard length cable If the cable was shortened can you tell me how you connected the cut end to the clevis yoke, at the start of the chain. Was the wire looped around the clevis pin or is the 3rd photo down taken in the footwell showing this connection? Sorry to ask so many questions. Many thanks in advance. G
  19. REASON FOR SALE DUE TO ILL HEALTH. NOT USED FOR THE PAST 9 MONTHS.STARTS AND RUNS WELL.IF YOU LOOKING FOR A CHEAP BRITISH MADE ,USEABLE CLASSIC CAR ,THIS MAY BE THE ONE.PLEASE RING FOR MORE DETAILS 07767473792.PEX AND DELIVERY POSSIBLE. Item specifics Condition: Used: An item that has been previously used. See the seller’s listing for full details and ... Read moreabout the condition Year: 1987 Mileage: 123000 Reg. Mark: D*** *** Colour: Blue Engine Size: 2174 Manufacturer: Lotus Model: Eclat Body Type: Saloon Doors: 2 Drive Side: Right-hand drive Fuel: Petrol Reg. Date: 19870531 MOT Expiry: 202206 Interior/Comfort Options: Leather Seats V5 Document: Yes
  20. Hi Dave, Those lights are going to be my fall back lights. I remember them in my Dad's Rover 3.5L P5B and what good quality they were. Yes def in the boot of my Eclat, found the old wiring there.
  21. Does any body know who made these lights, or have seen a supplier? Or have a better picture so I can use Google to match the image. TIA G
  22. I wouldn't be concerned, as you say it's removable with a bit of light sanding/ wire brushing or I've used lemon juice to remove rust.
  23. On Ebay at the moment, single bearing new old stock, £120 incl P+P Another £168 +£14.50 P+P
  24. I have a lot of noise coming from the back ‘axle’ so I’m going to replace the UJ’s after seeing how old they look and not being able to get any new grease in them thro’ the nipple. The bearings don’t seem to have any wear on them but I wonder if the grease has dried out causing the noise. I’ve been told the bearing races can be separated; can anyone please explain how this is done. I’ll inspect and if okay repack with new grease. Any advice gratefully received. TIA, G
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