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  1. I have Ferodo Racing DS3.12 and 225 Yokohama A052 on the front axle. Camber is set to -2.3°. Braking is very intense. No issues with the ABS. Sure there are some TC issues when in TOUR mode, because TC is not calibrated for the higher level of grip. It might be that your tyres are the problem.
  2. @Paul_D can't see what was your fuel level at. Was it less than 50%? If less than 50%, could be the fuel surge. But I guess car would go back to normal after a few seconds of a slow straight drive.
  3. Nice color. Congrats 🙂 Enjoy the car and get the Hell slow mirrors as soon as possible (if still possible). They improve rear visibility a lot.
  4. So the day has come. Simple 3 hours job turned into a 5 days nightmare... but it's drivable now 😃 Long story short: No issues on a front end. Got the bump steer kit by eliseparts. Bump steer was actually not a huge problem for now. But I am still not used to this car fully (read: slow 😂 ), so I guess it would be a problem sooner or later. Wanted to incrase the front camber by milling the uprights. Since bump steer kit offers additional camber as well, I picked the kit. Looks like that: Haven't measured it precisely yet, but you can notice the toe change when the car is loaded with an eye! When the front axle is loaded with 160 kg, toe is closed for 1° on a max setting. Went on a short drive (short due to a combination of a weather and new tyres). Car is super nervous, almost undrivable on a road on a current settings, but calms down nicely under braking. It's like day and night driving it accelerating/constant speed or during braking. Haven't expected this big difference. However, I decided that it is a bit too much for the beginning so I am putting a bit more conservative bump steer setting for now. Oh one more important thing: car is not lowered. It's running on a standard cup430 height. Spacer is not needed, but recommended to prevent rubbing when on full lock (since max lock is only needed when parking, no rush to get the spacer on front). Rear end: Those are adjustable upper rear arms by DNA Racing: Those arms can provide some serious camber. Factory reports it can provide up to 6° of camber (so I can set an Exige for the stance car meet 😂 ). You set the approx camber on upper arm, than put the wheels on. Than set the precise camber with the lower OEM eccentric bolt). When on car, looks quite nice: Hope that the nice powder coating survives all the beating down there 🙂 Additional camber means fitting issues. When more than approx 2° of camber, standard cup430 wheel with an OEM 3 mm spacer is hitting the helper spring. Additional spacer was needed. I have a track day next week, so I needed it immediately... so we went to the lab: Measured all that was measurable, machined few spacers, made sure it was precise enough: Outcome was that the 5 mm of additional spacer (this makes 8 mm of spacer with the OEM 3 mm one) is fine regarding the fit. But quite problematic for mounting the wheel, so 9 mm spacer is ideal for the OEM wheel without an OEM spacer (or 6mm of spacer + OEM 3mm spacer). Hope it helps someone 🙂 And wheel is up! Bump steer will be put to some more conservative setting in the following days. Whole geometry will be set. Than some Sunday fast road trip and trackday next week. Can't wait to drive it on a track. Not sure whether I will be faster since car is totally different now. It's like getting a new car. Also not sure if the settings are ideal. Will see. Wise man change just one thing on a car and do the testing. When happy with a setting, they move to the next thing to upgrade. Its called iterative progress or something like that? I listen to the wise guys. So I only changed bump steer setting. But than s*** happened and I changed rear upper arms, added huge amount of camber on front and rear, changed toe, added new tyres... now I can't drive fast, because I need to learn how to drive it. Exige way of thinking 😆
  5. I am pretty sure the best way is to change the oil in cooler as well. What if we just change the oil in the gearbox (without the oil cooler) once or twice per year. Wouldn't that keep the whole oil and gearbox quite healthy? Am I missing something important?
  6. Thanks @jacks1071 for the info.
  7. @cuprapw haven't measured exactly, but everything less than 2° should be fine. Some clarification regarding the fit: it's not dependent on a tyres since rim is hitting the helper spring. Spacer (at least 5 more mm) is needed for additional camber.
  8. Are those brass pads some standard part others could order or is this a custom solution?
  9. I can confirm that the A052 in the dimension 295/30/18 in combination with a CUP430 wheel (OEM 3 mm spacer) and camber higher than 2° can't be installed on a car. Tyre is rubbing the "helper" spring. Additional spacer is needed. I guess 5 mm would be perfect.
  10. It's not about the ABS... it's about camber. If you relocate ABS holder/bracket/connector, you can get some additional camber.
  11. Have you examined synchros as well? No damege?
  12. Been offline for a while, since there was not a lot of news on a Lotus. Waiting for the rear upper arms to get more camber at the rear... to stop destroying semi-slicks. But arms just arrived. Next week I am putting them on an Exige together with a front bump steer kit (to get more camber as well) any new AO52 semis. However, I did some nice roadtrips and few hill climbs with it. I can report that the Pirelli Trofeo R is not suitable for hill climbs since it needs half of a track to warm up. Burnouts before start helps, but not fully (also no help for front end). So better use Cup2. Haven't noticed lack of camber like I did on a track. But hill climb race is uphill, so quite different. Here is a short onboard youtube video of the hill climb drive:
  13. Have you removed ABS bracket as well? I ordered front bum steer kit, it also increases front camber. It's an alternative to milling front upright, but it's geometry should be better fitted for lowered setting.
  14. Thx for the info. So it should be checked when integrating LSD Yes, but I wouldn't put back plastic part. My thinking is if this was a problem on a new car (well, 1000-2000 miles), it will be repeated in 1000-2000 miles again.
  15. I also noticed that the down changes are smoother and sweeter when in race mode.
  16. Congrats, that's the nicest color I've seen on an Exige. BTW: what is the color name?
  17. Agree that the 265 sits better on an OEM wheel... it's made for the 265 not for the 285 or even 295. I have limited rear-end grip (most likely due to the camber issues), so would like to avoid 265 before it's sorted out. How fast can the Cooper RS3R/Avon ZZR be warmed up?
  18. Nice driving. I see you are quite polite driver 👍 Also: - how can you drive without the gloves??? - how can Cup2 survive 7 track days? I am ordering the 3rd set after the 3 or 4 track days for the rear. Still on original fronts 😆
  19. I know this is quite old topic, but still... I need your help 🙂 Want to get more camber on the Exige from the day one I got it. Notice that the front is not such a problem, but bought zero bum steer kit anyway (increases camber as well). Can't do much on a rear. Moved eccentric bolt as far as possible. So we should get 2.5-2.6°, but we only get 1.7°. Took a picture of the eccentric bolt. Can anyone tell me if this is the max setting? My alignment shop said it's maxed. I would also say that it's maxed. Is there any other trick to increase it, without relocating the guide plate and without buying the adjustable upper arms?
  20. That's a really useful link. Big thanks for that 😀
  21. Yeah, but not just an engine, other parts as well. Just make sure not to check the front uprights 😂
  22. Knob is in %, but not sure % of what. % of 90°? 😂 So it's the TC for the cornet exit only. Exactly what is needed for the fast laps and trail braking. Just perfect 👍
  23. @Exx it's a great article. Read it multiple times. Really thumbs up for the creator. But it needs an update for the "CUP mode" 🙂 You can see the ESP intervention in the RACE mode on the following video. Quite short, not a great example, but just to get a feeling what I am talking about when relating to the front axle shaking: S intervention.mp4?dl=0
  24. Yes, it's for the front axle. Managed to get 1.5° of camber at front (1°30') with the stock parts. We should be able to get approx 2.5° of camber at the rear with the stock parts, but it's tricky. By rotating the eccentric bolt I only get 1.7°. Eccentric bolt in combination with a pivot should somehow be moved outwards, but me and my alignment shop are not sure hot to do it (without relocating the plate. 🙂 That's a good point. So when in RACE mode and holding the race button for a few seconds, dash shows TC slip angle. So that would mean that the ESP is fully off in this mode (where it takes into account slip angle knob)? Only intervention TC would do is limited engine power to prevent power slide (angle of power slide is depended on a knob)? So no funny business with a brakes? That would be a perfect combo, because I am still afraid of Exige torque, i.e. massive power slides on slippery curves, but don't like ESP intervention. That would answer my "forever" question to dealers, service providers, Lotus fans... difference between the RACE and "knob mode in 1% slip angle setting" is ESP. When in "knob mode / cup mode", only TC is intervening 😀
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