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  1. weissach is the only dealer. However, Richard at Richmond Auto Clinic is the local go-to for repairs etc..
  2. t70

    new ECM options?

    Hi Wayne.. they are not Chev Bearings. And.. ACL did not make them up. I am working on a solution for us for the future. Mike did have a few sets made up, by a guy in the UK, but the supply has run out. They are tabless bearings by the time you're finished making them. I had to finish mine with a hand file after machining them. Tabless bearings can make one nervous, but the bearings are not held in place by the tabs, they are held in by crush (Yes Wayne, I know you know this, but I'm sure most don't)
  3. t70

    new ECM options?

    I had my Carillo's made up with a slightly wider base for the bearings. There is a part of the crank that is rough at the edge and designed (presumably) for oil dispersion. However, The extra width of my rods enabled me to go about .020" wider on the rod bearings.. It's not a lot, but when coupled with the "race bearing" technology from ACL.. it should enable me to put quite a bit more power down.
  4. @simon I don't believe anybody has ever had this problem. The pistons I had made are assymmetrical and that's what the main source of the problem is. The pistons have a high thrust and a low thrust side. The high thrust side is wider than the low thrust and therefore the one bank of pistons has the "skinny skirt" facing the oil squirters. The factory system was designed to stay out of the way of the connecting rods. However, the factory rods are a standard design and are pretty much a square design. The Carillo rods are an H beam design and the squirters fit nicely between the "H" and will actually squirt more towards the centre of the piston as opposed to the edge as in the factory design. I hope this explains everything?
  5. I'm sure you can move the engine 1/2"-1.5" ahead.. but it would be unbelievably difficult.
  6. Good Question... The manual states "Finger pressure". So, put the plate on, use finger tension and then tighten the bolts... that's about it. Now.. on to the problem at hand.. the piston oil squirters... Here is the process I went through today to design new squirters. So here's the problem.. the piston oil squirter you see has been moved slightly to the right in order to no longer hit the piston skirt bridge directly. I tried moving the squirters around, but it seemed I would either hit the rods, or hit the pistons. So.. I finally decided that I would have to completely re-design the system.. so here's the process: First.. I cut out a piece of aluminum to make the base for the squirters.. You can see the factory system in the same picture. Then.. I grabbed a brass vacuum fitting and machined it down until it was the same size as the hole.. Then. I cut out a large section in order to fit the 1/8" aluminum piping in. Next.. We begin the process of bending the aluminum tubing to shape: Then we cover the whole thing in clay... Why? Well, I can ensure that there is no interference with anything and I can also be sure that there is plenty of clearance everywhere. My first design did not work.. as you can see in this picture, there is no clearance from the rod rotation and the piston oil squirter. Here is another design that I tried.. you can see it all situated in the block with some of the clay around it. I did several fittings with different levels of clay and different piping layouts. I spent quite a while re-designing and here is the final result.. it clears everything with no less than 0.1" of clearance. The only thing that is close now is the heads of the bots that retain the piston squirters themselves. I will remove some of the surface of the heads to ensure good clearance everywhere. Now.. the final stage will be to get steel piping and duplicate what I have designed. Once that is done, I can finally install them and get this bad boy running!
  7. I'm not sure what you are asking Alex? Are you referring to the oil squirters?
  8. Thanks Steve! Well folks. I've come to a bit of an issue.. the oil squirters are not lining up with the new piston design. The project will be on hold for a little while as I design a new oil squirting system.
  9. t70

    new ECM options?

    ^correct.. the afr with red race is RIDICULOUSLY rich. And.. the timing is really retarded.. like 6-8 degrees of advance at full boost. Now.. you can go with any stand-alone you want. Leave the factory ecm take care of extra bits.. and just take all the signals that the factory ecm uses to do fuel and ignition away from it. Also.. disconnect the check engine light wire, as it will become annoying. The advantage of using the Vipec V-88.. is I have a base map for it. However, my base map is using intercoolers. Now.. as for bigger turbos.. that's why the engine was rebuilt in mine. The car ran 500+hp on the dyno before it promptly blew up. This was on the red race chip.
  10. t70

    new ECM options?

    The ecm is made my EFI in Italy.. I don't believe it shares anything with GM.. But.. I've been wrong before. EFI has made Stand-alones for years. Many people have tried to communicate with EFI in Italy and have had no luck in getting any software information. The system is programmed in an MS-DOS based system and only a few people know how to re-program them. This is why I went stand-alone -- the factory system is not easy to reprogram.
  11. Well... today was productive.. We managed to get the liners installed and the heads on today. So, basically, all I am missing at the moment is one o-ring for the water pump (got the wrong o-ring twice) and the rod bearings. Here's some more of the update: Basically, we had to clean the liners for about 10 minutes each with clean paper towels and brake cleaner. This was an enormous pain in the ass. Also, we had to do the same to each liner bore. The nice thing is that the pistons were already in the liners. The Pistons also had to be oriented the correct way. The pistons have a high thrust and a low thrust side to them and if it was to be done wrong... it would be catastrophic. Here are some pics: Liner sealant done. Little bit of excess so I know it's sealed. Here's the liners installed: And here's the head gasket on.. And.. finally, I wrapped it all up as I wait for the bearings.
  12. Well.. I finally got my heads back from the machine shop. I still need the bearings to be finished, but, so far, I am actually making some progress. However, I am going to check all my bores to ensure they are absolutely perfect before I put the heads on. I also made a decision... I decided that the red engine just wasn't going to work for the polished look... so.. I went black: And.. this means that I have to polish all the intercooler piping as well...
  13. Wow.. Still loving this thread! What a great idea to put it on the dyno before putting the body on... Brilliant!
  14. Coolant lites are very common on esprits. Most of the time it's an exterior hose leak.. usually the "Y" pipe at the front of the car just behind the radiator on the left hand side. Now... There is one other thing you can EASILY screw up assembling the Intake plenum etc... The first and second plug wires on both sides are VERY easy to reverse. This will cause the codes you have.. 1301 and 1302... Please check the plug wires.. reverse them and I would bet that your codes will go away.
  15. The car you found is running the Lotus Prepared By Claudius intercooler system. It's a gorgeously designed system, but it has couple of down falls. The first is that the intercoolers aren't protected from the rest of the engine bay heat. The second is that the intercooler radiator is actually an oil cooler and it flows coolant too quickly to keep the fluid cold. As for the 20psi.. It was an overboost situation caused by using too high of a spring rate on the wastegate capsules.. it actually had resulted in total engine destruction. Luckily, it only happened once to me and I immediately changed out the capsules for Forge aluminum units. In case you're wondering, the spring rate was at 10 psi.. The boost control map simply can't compensate for that high of a spring rate. I agree with Injector Dynamics. That's what I'm using in mine. They basically buy Bosch Injectors, machine them slightly and re-sell them. Bosch is one of the best injectors available. I run 735cc injectors in mine and the neutral throttle and idle control are excellent. The car actually runs smoother with these injectors and the stand-alone than it did with the factory ecm. As for the color.. My car is Orange.
  16. Oh... and the Horsepower and torque ratings I acquired were 430rwhp and 430rwhtq.. however, we had to tune it back to that. We actually spiked the dyno at 450rwhtq and 17psi. The car would easily run 20psi on the stock turbos and would thus, likely be putting down closer to 500 ft-lbs. We will see what I can achieve with the latest build... (There are now custom Carillo rods and Custom JE billet pistons...) Oh.. and upgraded turbos (I bought the car used, with these turbos, so I am unsure of their spec.. but I know they flow a lot more as they are able to maintain 22psi at 6500 rpm, which the stock ones most certainly cannot do.)
  17. Johan managed to make something like 735whp with his esprit. He used Propane and Nitrous to get there. Since you asked about the intercooler system.. you may want to read the thread I did on it. You will find all the answers about radiators etc.. And.. I do run a full stand alone. I can help you with a base tune if you decide to go with the same system -- ViPec V88. I suspect you and I should talk by phone. Feel free to message me for my phone number. Here's the link:
  18. Hence this solution: IAT's never get over 52 degrees Celsius at 35 degrees ambient. the system is HIGHLY effective.
  19. It's so easy to pull the engine.. that anything that might require it's removal.. I just yank it. It's about 3 hours to yank. Just leave the power steering pump and the A/C compressor in the car. Don't try and pull the engine with them attached.. too much fluid draining etc..
  20. The reason for my statement about the leads is it's a common mistake.. Most won't likely admit having done it.. But because 2 and 3 line up to their respective cylinders, it would and has been easily assumed that 1 as 4 will also. It's not a mistake that means he is incompetent.. It's just an easy mistake to make. Nobody is perfect.. Now.. Back to cylinder 1 and 2:. What were their compression numbers with respect to the rest of the cylinders? Also.. Do you have photos of the under side of the engine?
  21. Here's a few from over the years working on esprits..
  22. The coil wire reversing will cause the backfiring. I only know this from experience. The usual reason for dropped compression is slipped cam gears. They tend to slip over time.. have you checked the timing with the timing tools and setting pins? However, if you had a rusty spark plug.. that's not a good sign. However, it depends on where it was rusty. And.. it would be possible that the plug got rusty from humidity if the last time it was ran it was raining or particularly humid. (This isn't something I've seen but it is plausible) Now.. he managed to get the oil pan off without removing the engine?.. that's an accomplishment.. however, the time wasted to do it is rather excessive. The engine comes out in about 3 hours.. If he has already replaced the head gaskets.. there should have been evidence of wear on the cylinder walls if you need a rebuild... like this:
  23. This doesn't sound right at all. The catalytic converter does not need to be removed to adjust wastegates. And.. the plenum... 3.5 hours? Did he build a new fuel system while he was there? I may be extremely experienced at plenum removal, but I do it in about 17 minutes... Replacement is another 25-30 minutes. However, he did clean and re-oil your filter in absolutely record time. It usually takes me 1-2 hours to clean and re-oil them. I'm hoping he replaced the wires when he replaced the plugs in 2.5 hours.. as the time to do that is well under an hour if you don't replace the leads. All that aside.. What we need to know is what the compression of each cylinder is.. and what the leak down test results were. And.. what I suspect he has done is gotten the order wrong on the plug leads to the coils. The left and right banks are not in the same order on the coils. This would result in your rough running and your exhaust popping noises etc.. I would simply check the coil wiring.. and I would bet that 2 leads are reversed on the coil.. The order they are supposed to be in is this: When looking from the rear: left coil (feeds right bank) coil position number 4 attaches to cylinder 1 coil position number 3 attaches to cylinder 3 coil position number 2 attaches to cylinder 2 coil position number 1 attaches to cylinder 4 Right coil (feeds left bank) coil position number 4 attaches to cylinder 5 coil position number 3 attaches to cylinder 7 coil position number 2 attaches to cylinder 6 coil position number 1 attaches to cylinder 8 Since the coils are made by GM and the numbers do not reference the actual cylinder numbers, this is highly probable to be the cause of your issues.
  24. Yes.. it can be.. In fact, I always take it off before I pull the engine. Mainly because getting at the A/C line bolt (allen key in the back of the compressor) is nearly impossible. It's just 4 bolts, you may need to lift the engine a bit to get at one of them.
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