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  1. So... here's the latest on the project. I've almost completely disassembled the interrior/heater system etc... ---I discovered the wiper motor wasn't functioning... so I rebuilt that and it runs now. --Additionally the warm-up regulator was malfunctioning and so i tore that apart, cleaned it and rebuilt it. --I'm gonna need to build some new intake piping, it's falling apart and causing incorrect fueling. --I found a chewed through a/c line under the dash (bloody mice) --The previous owner had mis-wired the secondary positive lead from the battery to the negative side. --This unfortunately pooched my alternator --Front wheel bearing needs replacement -- $28 --Rear brakes $73 --Water pump leaking -- can get rebuilt for $60 --In order to replace the water pump... i think I'm gonna have to pull the engine.... might as well to ensure that all the leaks are fixed and I shall polish my intake runners... mmmm pretty --Valve covers need paint --Need a new intake air box (hole in it) --I've had to fix my coolant tank -- cap wasn't sealing properly due to bent lip --Found a wiggly speedometer angle drive... doesn't seem to be installed correctly... gonna have to spend some time on that one --Need new door seals. --must re-upholster roof liner --repair one patch in seat.. --Had to rebuild a couple of wire plugs... --distributor cap was loose --i'm sure there's more.... here's some pics anyway first is of the passengers side wheel spindle Second is of the a/c line eaten by the mouse Third is of me trying to disassemble the wiper mechanism... WHAT A PAIN IN THE BUTT!!! Imagehosting - PicTiger
  2. I am feeling the same way about the whole issue of unintentional insult. I had no intentions of offending anybody... just giving my two cents with regards to my understanding of engine building and tuning. The last thing on my mind is to hurt anybody or offend anybody. As for the valves... I have a few sources for custom valves and I can look into it for you.. They will probably be swirl polished stainless valves. I wouldn't expect to be able to fit 1mm oversize on a 4 valve head on the exhaust side.. but if it is possible --- that would be great. So If all that is necessary is a seat grind then i'll source that size.. If somebody could supply me with all the valve stats (stem length/diameter/retainer height etc..) Then I may be able to get some made. My supra valves were only $100 canadian for 12 (6 exhaust, six intake) and they were more or less custom (very short production run) I guess the end result is if I can find them.. I'll find out a minimum order number and if we can have a large enough group purchase to get the price down... we'll do it.. yeah?
  3. well... it's not turbocharged yet... but it's actually surprisingly driveable in NA trim. It's got a VERY flat torque curve (seat of the pants dyno) from 2000rpm to 6000rpm. The main reason for the flat curve though is my ecu can't be tuned and all i can change is the afm spring tension and rheostat position so my afr under full throttle sits at about 12.2. Fairly torquey but not optimal. Doesn't really matter though... once it's boosted I expect about 500hp at 15-17lbs of boost.
  4. The dimples do more than just create less drag. I am fairly confident that the dimples are more for stability than anything else... The dimples create a low pressure zone around the outside of the ball. This low pressure zone makes it so that the air doesn't have anything to grab ahold of and make the ball curve un-naturally. I don't think ports will have the same effect... infact I'm quite certain it won't. When porting a head you generally "polish" the intake port with a 45 or 60 grit sandpaper (not smoother) in order to create enough turbulence to keep the fuel from pooling against the side of the port wall. Other than that, you want the ports to be as smooth as possible on the exhaust side. The other reason for a mild grit on the intake is to keep the air from flowing perfectly straight. If it flowed perfectly straight and smooth, you would end up effectively "dumping" a poorly atomized pile of fuel that wasn't properly mixed with the air, into the cylinder. This would cause massive fuel consumption and higher risk of detonation due to the unpredictable burn patterns and resultant afr in the cylinder... Just my 2 cents oh and as another note... Increasing flow and valve size isn't particularly to increase horsepower directly in the case of a boosted engine. It's purpose is more to create a more efficient flow into the cylinder at higher pressure. So, that is why you can increase boost pressure on that engine.... It's the same logic as to why i heavily over-ported the head on my supra... it's only to function well as a boosted engine.. the amount of flow that i have in that head is completely useless as a naturally aspirated engine.
  5. my cat must have died early.. or it was extremely lazy... the three mouse nests i found in the car are a testament to that!! hehe.... maybe my dogs ate it... hmmmm
  6. Interesting about the machining... It's good to know if i have to plane mine in the future. The other thing a guy could do is put 0.5mm over size valves in and do some mile port work with a gasket match and probably be just as effective if not more so. If you do 0.5mm over-size valves, you can use your original seats, therefore you wouldn't need to do any machine work on the head. Port work is not that hard to do and I can scan the instructions on how to build your own flow-bench. I build my own and ported my 5mge supra head from 185 cfm stock to 252 cfm with no more than a 10 cfm difference from worst to best port. Here's a pic or two of my flow bench: and then some port work too.... The flow bench cost me about $300 CDN... works like a charm. Additionally, if you gasket match and polish your exhaust ports with as high a grit sandpaper as you can, you should get a decent improvement.... and also polish your cylinder head dome... don't forget to round off any rough edges. Then in order to make sure you're exactly the same on each dome, just use a piece of glass with a hole in it and use oil as a seal on your valves and glass to head area. All you have to do then is fill it with water using a graduated pipet.. as long as each cylinder head dome is equal, you're fine... and you can crank up the boost a bit more without risk of detonation (due to the fact that there are no "sharp edges" to get hot and cause pre-ignition)...
  7. Update!!! Well it would appear that the previous owner placed the secondary positive wire onto the negative terminal of the battery post connector! So, hopefully there isn't a whole lot of fried electronics... So far the only thing i've seen with a problem is the main fuel pressure regulator. The Frequency valve still functions, the pumps still work, the relays still work, but i'm unable to open the throttle without adding fuel manually yet. So Thursday I will tackle the rest of it checking resistances etc... Just goes to show that its almost always the simplest problem that's correct!
  8. I may be talking out of my butt..a but a boosted engine generally responds better to bigger exhaust valves rather than intake. The reasoning is due to pressure differantials between the exhaust pressure in the cylinder and atmospheric vs atmospheric vs cylinder vacuum. That's why an intake valve is larger than an exhaust valve... This however, all changes when you add boost... the exhaust valve has to approach the same size as the exhaust valve as boost pressure increases because now the intake pressure is greater than atmospheric and the manifold back pressure is a bit greater than on a naturally aspirated engine but not by as much as the increase at the intake size...
  9. thanks man! I'm kind of in the same boat... I used to know the K-Jetronic in my Porsche 924 extremely well, but that was many years ago and, like you, my memory is failing... and lately i'll i've been working on is full electronic fuel injection.... oh well.. wiring is still wiring... hopefully i can figure this out sometime soon.
  10. Well... i've been checking for ground with the ignition off.. and i discovered that it will show ground no matter what, because of the relay coil i think. Aside from that I'm gonna be bug chasing again here on thursday... We'll see how that goes.. I think there are some connections that haven't been made with regards to the fuel system/electrical system... So, time to find out what's missing and go from there...
  11. Hi guys! First off... WHAT A GREAT FORUM!!! You guys are so friendly, it's wonderfully refreshing from my usual forum experiences. So, here's my troubles... I've got a fried relay that seems to control the fuel pump and the fuel pressure regulator on the KE-Jetronic system in my 88. I'm not sure what problems the relay is causing, but here are the symptoms: --I have ground at both sides of my fuel pump (both + and -) --I don't appear to have fuel pressure regulation -- ie.. I have to push the air flow cone down physically in order to acquire enough fuel flow to rev the engine up. I haven't pressure tested the system yet, but I should be able to do that on thursday. --If i hook up direct power to the fuel pump, I blow the 15 amp fuel pump fuse (brown wire to white/purple or the white/blue -- can't remember) However, this is the only way to get the car to run. On a side note though... the brown wires in the car, I assume, supposed to be negative right? I'm guessing that this is a bit of a wire color code hybrid -- porsche and vw used to use brown for ground. All the other grounds on the car appear to be black though.... So, I'm a little confused... It is possible that somebody wired the brown wires to the wrong side of the battery... I don't know.. Any help would be much appreciated.
  12. Aerobat? no... but i'll look him up.. And you're right, there are only 3 Esprit's in town that i know of including mine.
  13. yes i'm sure it is... i am, however, quite satisfied with parts prices so far -- $80 CDN for rear brake pads, $25 CDN for wheel bearings and seals.... $60 CDN to rebuild water pump.... Quite attractive really, considering the prices of the stuff on my porsche was MUCH worse. So I'm generally quite happy with it so far... Biggest problem right now is with the fuel pressure regulator on the CIS.. not functioning as of right now... so I've gotta figure out what's going on there....
  14. Hi again guys!!! Well, my name is Mark Terrio-Cameron, and I live in Medicine Hat, Alberta, Canada and I've just purchased my first lotus. It's an 88 esprit turbo that I got in Calgary that didn't run. Ed Kwan had worked on it for a while but wasn't willing to do a full restoration on it for the previous owner. So, I baught it and, having previously owned a porsche 924, have decided to start from scratch and try and solve as many problems as i can before they happen! Right now, I've only removed the interrior and the rear "floor". I've also begun recording all the wire color codes and what they operate. I probably could've had this running in a week or so, but I'd rather spend the time and do it right! So far I need: Fuel Supply line Front fan shroud both drivers side springs/shocks passenger side wheel bearing rear brake pads speedometer cable transmission mount (to hold the gear into the tranny straight) 2 coolant hoses water pump seal or new pump a lot of wire repair new roof liner some other minor upholstry issues o2 sensor wire grommet air box tires suspension bushings passenger side front upper ball joint steering arm rubbers I think that's about it for now, but I'm sure i'll find more! Photos Gallery - PicTiger
  15. WOW... What a great forum community!!! I've never been so welcomed before! As for the restoration project pictures.. I'm headed there right now (to the new section) to post progress pics!
  16. Hi Folks, I'm brand new here and I'm just embarking on the restoration of my newly acquired 1988 lotus esprit turbo. I picked it up for a steal (by Canadian Terms) due to the fact that it would not run except exceptionally rich. The basic prognosis is electrical and in order to track the problem i have decided to basically start from front to back eliminating all electrical problems and other issues of neglect that arise over 18 years of use/neglect. I've now discovered why this is actually worse than my old porsche -- at least the wiring was organized on the porsche!! Man Lotus does one hell of a rats nest for wiring. Kind of ironic actually, as i have so far removed 3 mouse nests from the inside of mine. I will post some pictures tomorrow, but heres the basic progress -- i've gutted the entire interrior and have begun inspecting every inch of the wiring harness and the rest of the car. So far i need a few little things, but nothing too serious...
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