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Phaeton91

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Everything posted by Phaeton91

  1. Wow that first picture is stunning. I’d imagine the car got a lot of (good) attention throughout the trip - it must have sounded epic too especially in the mountains (and inside them!). It’s a big trip - mine was just over 1,000 miles with the car fully loaded. Yours must have been double. How did the car behave? Did you have any niggles or issues?
  2. Sharing a couple of photos from my recent road trip. Wet lap was a bit more nerve wracking than normal. The car felt good really good, and got so much attention throughout the trip which is really saying something when you can’t throw a stick without hitting a 911 GT3 (or a GT2) or lots of other machinery costing 3 or 4 times as much.
  3. Have you changed your exhaust or are the limits more lenient on LOT days?
  4. Good man for contributing the background. Me thinks that you may still be a little bit in love with your ex though 😉
  5. Sorry to hear this. It’s possibly something to do with the fact that most brake bleeding is done using a pressurised system. Given how far it sprayed it could be likely the tech got some all over himself too and potentially his face and eyes. I’d be very concerned about that and that if that did happen he gets himself checked out - and that’s where my kindness ends. The garage needs to take responsibility and give you a commitment - your paint or PPF could corrode in 6/12/24 months and the current person you are dealing with could be long gone. You may want to get this all down and agreed in writing so there is no doubt who is responsible for putting it right were that to happen. They may also have CCTV in the workshop.
  6. I initially thought the same especially if you walked into the showroom and saw it - there’s no obvious disclaimer on show even though it’s very clear from the advert what the position is. It would be interesting to know who deals with the money side of things. Either way it could be messy and the paperwork is where the devil will be. A mate of mine had a terrible experience with a car he was selling for c£30k. He eventually sold it through a dealership on a similar basis. The engine up blew up within hours of the buyer taking delivery . Sale of goods act applied so the buyer got his money back in full and my mate got the car back basically as a write off - the dealer hadn’t taken ownership of the car so it wasn’t his problem. Had my pal have sold it directly he wouldn’t have been in that position, albeit he might have had a worse fate befall him.
  7. Good shout. Your neighbours must have thought you were stroking the car. I sprayed a tiny bit of WD40 into the boot lid mechanism, which also seems to have helped.
  8. I’d agree with @Bravo73 Lack of tension in the springs will make the pads rattle which applying brake pressure will stop. That’s a simple explanation but something more serious could be at issue bearing in mind your comment about lots of dust and rust falling out of the wheel, eg, I’m thinking serious pad degradation. Definitely take them out and have a good look before using the brakes in anger again.
  9. Just on the offchance that it’s a simple issue, was the car relatively level when you were trying to open the boot. I’ve found that the boot is sensitive to flex in the body, eg if one or two wheels are on a kerb.
  10. That’s worth hitting the subscribe button for. I’ve watched this guy’s videos before and they are pretty good. Good on Lotus for donating the car.
  11. I’m sure many will have seen this but this car is jaw dropping. If my hair was a bit less salt and pepper I might just have gone for it! Actually quite stunning especially the carbon features. No cup holders though…
  12. When I sold my last car I parked down a quiet green side road and took some nice photos in the sun. Only after I put the ad on auto-trader did the Penny drop that I was on double yellow lines. From the moment I noticed I couldn’t get past it. That also was a yellow car - maybe it’s a thing. Both of those cars look very good though - says a lot about the shape that it wears all colours well. Loving the gold wheels.
  13. I’ve had two liquid yellow Megane’s (275 and 300 trophy) and a racing blue Clio cup before these so I’ve had shouty coloured cars probably spanning my forties and early fifties. I loved every minute with them - driving and looking at them. The colour made the cars come alive even when stationary and for a time I was thinking that I would only ever buy yellow cars. I’ve now got a black Evora 400 which I just love the look of. The point I am trying to make is that if you get the right car you’ll love it whatever the colour - and so you should go with what you feel most comfortable with.
  14. I built a Dutton kit car in my early twenties including fully stripping and rebuilding a Ford Pinto SOHC engine and also had handy side Line whilst studying changing clutches on escort rs2000s (b***h of a job!). Since then though my spannering has been limited to changing brake discs/pads by lack of a suitable space and cars under warranty. My recent addition of the Evora has rekindled the enjoyment and I’m finding the car to be very logically put together, if a little cramped to work on. I do yearn for a garage though. As mentioned by others it’s a great distraction from the day job (accountant).
  15. This popped up in my thread so thought I’d add to it. The Evora is listed on the Eurolites fitting sheet. They stick on and peel off easily when finished, ie, stick on in the Eurotunnel going and peel off in the Eurotunnel coming home. From what I have read you can be nabbed in the daytime if you don’t have the deflectors on. For the sake of a fiver I don’t see the reason to take a risk. the one problem I did have was with the UK/GB sticker. My magnetic badge didn’t work for obvious reasons so I stuck the UK sticker at the top of the rear window to avoid touching paint work but the heat from the engine bay made a real mess of it when I took it off. I think therefore a number plate badge is probably the best way to go if allowed.
  16. I’ve got one of the Halfords ones - had it for donkey’s years. Foil silver on one side and foil blue on the reverse. Folds concertina style. Fits ok in windscreen and covers the airbag and most of the dash. Its fairly rigid so mostly supports itself but with the laughable sun visors no matter how hard I try it’s hard to get both to support the shade. It’s likely I will have to attach some fixing of some type if we end up with more than a fortnight of sunshine this year.
  17. You’re right. Just had a look on camskill and choices are pretty limited. Have to say though that the Goodyear Supersport R looks pretty sexy!
  18. Just to add my recent experience for future reference. I had the amber engine management light last week and linked up the code reader to find the P101 code. Had previously had a couple of stalls and a bit of “hunting” for a constant rev reading at idle. I bought a tin of CRC MAF cleaner. The sensor is super easy to access and so gave it a few sprays (plenty of info on you tube about do’s and don’ts). Note that mine also looked clean to the eye but they are apparently extremely sensitive. Car is running fine now so issues appear to be resolved.
  19. I had the front wheel clicking noise with a vengeance last week after some long drives. Was quite concerned as still had a long journey ahead and found a couple of mechanics who very helpfully looked at it for me. They diagnosed the problem to the front brake pad springs - seems that they lost tension. They removed them, bent them a bit - replaced and hey presto the noise was gone for a few days - but it’s now back again. Does anyone know if I can buy the springs on their own, or with say new pins? If so any idea on part numbers. Perhaps the springs have genuinely lost tension which is why it was a temporary fix. Interestingly, another chap that I spoke to suggested taking the springs out and binning them. I guess that means the pads will rattle but has anyone else done this? ps: I’ve also read about the wheel and disc face and so next chance I get will clean these up.
  20. I suspect that this will be my next tyre. I’m running PSS all round at the moment as that’s what the car came with when I bought it. Loads of tread left but just realised that the rears are starred ie, BMW format. Read somewhere on the forum that is not great. @seb - i’m interested to know why you put the front wheels on blocks?
  21. Hiya. many hours lost looking and contemplating tyre choice! I’d bear in mind that if you opt for anything fruity (ad08r) the grip isn’t there until they are warmed up. That also means turn in which is what I guess you mean by steering feel. Note also that steering feel is derived from having minimal movement in the tread blocks, ie, narrower rain dissipation grooves, which compromises wet weather performance and noise. So I’d stay away from the semi slick options for road use. Personally I’d also stay away from more passenger car orientated tyres and stick to tyres developed for UHP, which is more the PS4S / PSS / Goodyear super sport / conti 6. I appreciate the chassis will take up a lot but for me it’s a bit like playing football in casual shoes - I can do it - but if I don’t have to then I’d be better off in trainers or boots.
  22. Great write up. Seems like you had a satisfying day and the fact you put a lot of this together yourself made it more so. I notice you are on PS4S. Was that for the track too? If so how did they hold up, and what do the shoulders look like now? Also what camber settings are you using?
  23. If the fella is still looking he’s found his unicorn. Cracking looking car. I luckily had 2 bites of the cherry when I bought mine. I called the dealer the afternoon the ad was placed but someone had beat me to it by an hour. I left my number and 3 weeks later the dealer called me as the buyer got cold feet due to the rising fuel prices. I didn’t hang around then and committed over the phone, subject to a visual inspection later that week and am so happy I did.
  24. It’s pretty straightforward and the only tools needed are a suitable sized spanner. There are a couple of ways the ball joint is secured, either a circlip or a spring but again not difficult to deal with. Main thing I would say is to be extra careful not to drop anything off such as a washer or a clip as they will likely a pig to recover, and also to cut a suitable sized piece of 4 x 2 timber to prop up the “boot lid”. Leaving it on one strut or trying to do it quickly would be a mistake! incidentally, I also made up some cup holders if anyone is interested in knowing more about that. I have 1200 mile round trip coming up next week with a 3am departure time and needed somewhere to put my red bull!!
  25. Thanks for the info above. Just changed my struts which were failing to hold up the engine cover on my 400. Ordered these from SGS, based in Derbyshire whom I’ve used before for buying other bits and pieces, came pretty quickly and fitted easily. https://www.sgs-engineering.com/gsc3168-lotus-evora-boot-strut
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