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SilverEsprit

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Everything posted by SilverEsprit

  1. You may be on to something, as my fans don't turn on with or without ac. Any idea where this diode is located so I can check it out?
  2. A few months ago the radiator fans came on with the ac only. Now they do not turn on under any condition. Trying to figure out what delivers power to the otter switch (since there is none, tested with car running). I ran a jumper wire today from pin 30 to 87a of the interior cabin radiator fan relay (lower right, next to the fuses) and fan turned on. Short term, I'm considering wiring a toggle switch to this relay but I'd rather fix the core issue even if it means a bit of surgery.
  3. Thank you, DrDoom. Any advice on how I might get in there to check things out? After visual inspection I don't have any immediate ideas.
  4. Not getting power delivered to the otter switch, so tracing the pink/green wire back to wherever the power comes from. Except I'm not sure where to find it. Diagrams in PDF service notes indicate a center console connector (not sure where that is) which continues to an ACU unit underneath the steering wheel, but I'm not sure how to remove the dash to gain access. I also heard my 83 actually doesn't have an ACU, but rather a thermistor inside an evaporator. So I'm a little confused.
  5. New owner here of a '83 Usa Turbo Esprit. PO had a shop service the clutch, I believe it's brand new. When taking off in first gear from park, you have to rev the gas as you release the clutch or the engine may/will stall. I'm curious if that is normal, since I'm used to that being a requirement for a worn clutch; on my Civic, if you slowly release the clutch pedal the car will happily start rolling forward in first gear without the gas engaged.
  6. Is it normal for the pipes to move a half inch or so, and be able to rotate? One of the hoses was really on there and only slightly worried I may have loosened something on the other end while extracting it. ALSO I happen to have the drain plug removed from the radiator, and water from the hose is clearly running out from there at full pressure when flushing with a garden hose at these pipes. Does that mean it's not as plugged up as I thought? I was prepared for the CLR treatment, but after a few seconds of crud, water runs strong through both pipes so I suspect I'm clear. Strangely, flow is the same no matter if the dial is turned to heat or cold. Is that unusual?
  7. Looking to flush my heater core. Coolant has all been drained from the car and was thinking I could circulate water through these pipes on the right if I've identified them correctly.
  8. Would you send them to me as well? It's my turn to attack this issue...
  9. I have six relays at the front of my '83 Turbo Esprit. I've identified all but one, which by default is the radiator fan relay. The wire colors for the relay socket are: Blue/brown (UN) Blue/yellow (UY) Blue/red (UR) Black (B). All the radiator fan relays in the service manual are coded either: Brown (N) Black/orange (BO) Yellow/brown (YN) Black (B) or Brown (N) Black/orange (BO) Black/brown (BN) Black (B). Should I be sure this is really for the radiator fans? I read through the entire wiring diagram for my car and didn't find my relay socket's wiring colors anywhere. I inherited some kind of issue with the radiator fans when I bought the car in April so can't just pull the relay to see if the fans shut off. If a previous owner or mechanic rewired things that might explain why I have odd colors here and something wrong with the rad fans. Just trying to make sense of it. Any obvious answers I may have missed?
  10. Turns out it's four-pin. I had confused the flash relay (which is located up front next to the headlamps) with the hazard relay (which is a flash relay)...a semantic confusion. I was able to confirm for myself with a very bright flashlight shone into the relay outlet, which revealed a brass connector in all but the center slot, meaning only the four outside slots made a connection and the center slot is there for no reason. SJ and JAE confirmed as well.
  11. Trying to intimately understand the workings of the headlamp motor and curious what the line weights represent on the wiring diagrams. In the attached example, however, there is a normal thin line, a bold black line, and a highlighted gray line. What does each represent? In the specific case of the headlamp motors, I'm under the impression power gets delivered to one of the two wires connected to the electro magnet, which turns the worm spring, which rotates the nylon disc, which presses in a nylon plunger behind either end of the copper metal strip, which I think stops the disc from spinning. I'm not sure if that's correct and am trying to trace the electric pathway more precisely so I can understand it.
  12. Is the flasher relay for the hazard lights / turn signals four-pin or five-pin? My 83 turbo came with a 4-pin relay (URO 14551) stuck in the space (upper right, left of steering wheel). I notice it has five slots and looks like 5 pins in the wiring diagram. I ordered a new five-pin relay (HELLA TB64) from a reputable supplier and the new one arrived with four pins (and still doesn't work).
  13. Thanks...blew a fuse (#16). Weirdly, it continues to blow now every time the headlight switch turns on, even with the relay unplugged and motor detached. The journey continues.
  14. Did you ever find a solution to your continuously blowing fuse? I have the same issue right now. With the previously working motor and its front relay removed, fuse 16 (10A) blows every time I turn on the headlight switch. I had a connector get filled with washer fluid and then that motor stopped working, and I've traced it to this.
  15. Didn't see much of this online, so thought I'd upload my own. Most headlamp motor topics focus on the nylon gear and not the wiring. Here you go:
  16. Which relays power the headlamp motor? I would trade mine around to test, but both headlamp motors are not functional.
  17. One of my headlights isn't popping up. I'm sure there are other threads I can look at to figure out how to fix this. But the one that was working just stopped. I looked and found one of the connectors (salmon/green wires) full of windshield wiper fluid from this morning's tank leak and subsequent repair. Could a connector filled with fluid short out the motor? Or should it be ok if I just open it up and let it dry?
  18. I had CA glue lying around so spread it inside and outside on the crack, then did the same with clear packing tape. It was tricky getting down inside the tank, but I used a Qtip to spread the glue and a thin, long-handled artist's paintbrush to burnish the tape. It no longer leaks!
  19. Great suggestions guys, and CarBuff you got me! I think I'll try some silicone or CA or epoxy, plus a layer of tape over it.
  20. Cleaning up my new 83 Turbo US spec as well and my front gas strut has also failed. It is labeled STABILUS 6309IQ 0105N 027/03 A 4 G314012. I see your 110N and wonder if my 0105N correlates to the number you were looking at, and if mine is weaker (23.6lb vs your 24.7lb), and which or if both were originally installed. I'll have to find one soon too, but broom handle in the mean time...
  21. Speaking of checking coolant, I've opened the container and see a bunch of corrosion inside. I think it's time for a new one! PO was having an overheating issue and thought it was the radiator fans. I decided to check coolant level first and it's pretty low, near the bottom of the container. Should it normally be full / topped off? Corroded container could also leak in theory. I'm thinking I'll get a new container and flush/replace the coolant, then monitor it for other issues.
  22. Yep, that's the one! Giniw, here's a pic...always a good idea and I'll keep this in mind for future questions--thanks!
  23. Filled up my plastic windshield washer tank only to find it leaking fluid. Removed, examined, and found a pinhole leak on either side of the plastic form where it slides into the bracket. Is there a tried and true method of repairing this? Superglue? Epoxy, perhaps?
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