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John Watson

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  • Name
    John Watson
  • Car
    Evora NA
  • Modifications
    2bular box
  • Location
    Wiltshire

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  1. The maps on my recently acquired 2012 NA model were the original and dated 2008. The instructions on the Alpine site are pretty straightforward and updated European maps cost 66Euro from Maviextras. You need two sizeable USB sticks, a Windows PC and a fair bit of patience! Mine had a USB extension cable under the dash in the passenger footwell.
  2. In my humble view (I have an electro-mechanical background) the mechanicals of the box are the limitation. In the meantime I have received the following helpful response from KT via Hangar111: the improvement is in the main with regard to slip when driven hard on track in the more powerful cars, rather than shift speed. As such, they don’t think there would be much benefit on an NA car.
  3. Further digging reveals Komotec do an IPD enhancement kit, but not sure it is as comprehensive though it is half the cost.
  4. I only drive mine (NA) in Sport as it is not predictable enough in normal. Seem to be getting about 25mpg which is good for that performance.
  5. Does anyone have experience of this in the UK or know anyone who has??? https://www.boefab.com/products/evora-ips-shift-performance-kit I picked it up on a post in Facebook where someone has it fitted and is very pleased with it. Claims to reduce demand-shift times by up to 50%.
  6. John Watson, Esprit S3, AVX 170X VIN SCC085912BHD11152
  7. Hi, I was in the same position as you 6 weeks ago and have now completed the job. However having only run 100 miles, the jury is still out on the results! My LC engine had also done (reputedly) 78,000 miles, but it was gutless and doing 100 miles to the litre. It turned out that the major prob was a broken up ring and damaged No3 piston. My advice would be: 1. DO liners, pistons and rings. There is a sale deal from lotus at the moment for pistions, liners & rings for 500 quid inc VAT. The early Hepolite pistons were very poor quality and both the ring gap and bore wear were out of tollerance. However lapping in the new liners took about 45 mins per liner! 2. For the bottom end, I only did big ends as they were in tollerance and the oil pressure was good so it was saafe to assume that the mains were good. Don't put back old shells - they won't bed in a second time. 3. I took the head to an engineering co to check (valve guides don't have seals) and they did everything including skimming, lapping, shimming etc and a bit of welding for about 500 quid (It was worth it for me as I was short of time) 4. Replacing the iol seals was pretty straightforward,a s was the whole job, by following the manual. 5. Check that modified head studs are fitted (they have a dimple on them) as I think they are needed for the new type head gasket. 6. Make sure you use the new type sealants as the ones in the manual are not obtainable now. Best of luck! John
  8. Hi Folks, I have recently returned to hallowed ground with (another) very nice black 82 S3. I had one in 88 for 12 months and always thought it wouldn't be the last! In fact I had an Elan S4 and Europa TC in period (72 - 77). The Esprit is generally in very good nick, but I knew the motor was tired and ajusted the price accordingly. However with only 110psi coming up on compression and the engine gutless, I have decided to get on with it and hopefully be back on the road before the summer. I have spoken to a number of people about donor engines, higher spec, etc, but there are tales of woe a plenty! hence the standard build this time - possibly an HC+ motor later. Having raced single seaters for the past 8 years, out and out road performance is not on the agenda. I have purchased the service notes. However any tips on building a reliable engine, and anyone with the special tools would be most welcome. John
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