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randomusername last won the day on December 30 2022

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  1. Much better than EP90 gear oil Initial sweet notes with a long lasting bitrex aftertaste
  2. Once I strip it down and figure out it is the rad that's leaking I'll be straight on the phone to them - but I was doing some research beforehand and wondered if anyone knew what the rad was from
  3. More for anyone's future help / reference than anything else: Pre 400 Rad - C132K0011F RADIATOR OPEL FRONTERA A 2.0 2.2 2.4 PETROL 1991-1998 1300119 1300120 1300136" Post 400 Rad - A132K0190H Currently Unknown... Disclaimer - I've not checked that the Frontera rad is identical, I just read somewhere that Lotus used a Frontera Rad in a thread somewhere and it looks very similar! I've had a search online for rads for all of the cars I can think of but can't find anything that looks the same as the 400 rad...
  4. Thanks - it looks like the early and later model rads are different - they don't seem to list a replacement for the 4x0 series
  5. Hi All I've been losing coolant for the past few drives and I think it's vanishing somewhere round the front of the car - there's a faint smell of coolant from the front rad vents, and one or two drips on the undertray that taste a bit coolant-ey... I've got a couple of questions before I investigate any further... 1 - can you get the the bottom of the rad by removing the undertray, or is there more ducting etc in the way? I was hoping that you could get access to enough to figure if it's the rad itself, leaky hose etc. I know to replace the rad you need to take the clam off... 2 - Is the 400 rad bespoke to Lotus, or did they re-use something from another car? I read somewhere that the earlier pre-400's possibly used a Vauxhall Frontera rad, but the 400 setup appears to have a different pipe layout... 3 - Are there any companies that make an uprated / all ally rad - it looks like the Komo-tec one is for the earlier models, but I can't find a 400 onwards one... Thanks! Jon
  6. Well - sitting and waiting appeared to pay off.... I thought earlier that I'd not heard anything back from them - so put my reg into the checker, and now it's showing as being ULEZ compliant. If I log into my account I can't see any responses to my queries, but it looks like they have updated the database using the VCA link I posted way up top as proof of compliance Hopefully this will be helpful to anyone else if they run into this in the future
  7. Thanks for the comprehensive reply... I'm sure I'll have a crack at changing them at some point, but probably when the weather is a bit better and when I know I've got a lot more time to take over it!
  8. It looks like it's a sit and wait web form for queries over the incorrect database, with some phone numbers for contesting charges.. I was looking to see if the CoC was readily available as that's what they ask for to correct the database - a scan of your V5C and a copy of the CoC. I provided them with the V5C and a copy of the gov certification site above for the 400 with a hope that this would be enough... If the CoC was 'free' then I would have re-submitted with a copy of that as well. If it's £180 then I shall wait a bit then probably call them up and start pestering...
  9. £180 to correct TfL having incorrect data on their bloomin' database???? Ouch...
  10. So - outside of the 10 day response time from the TfL and.... No answer... Does anyone know how I can get a Euro 6 Certificate of Conformity from Lotus? Is there a friendly person I can email?
  11. How hard was it to remove the loom to the tweeter? Speaker upgrades are one of the items on my to-do list, and re-using existing wiring (and bypassing the capacitor) is much easier than trying to run new ones around the place.. As an update to my post, given some time driving round and some tinkering - for the filters for the front speakers (step 25) - if you start with somewhere around 100Hz and see how it sounds, then if you want a bit more bass / "fuller sound" reduce the number down in steps - where the settings for the front speakers and the sub overlap, it means that bass will be played via both sets of speakers, so you will get a bit more 'thump'. It's all a matter of personal preference though, so experiment and see what sounds best to you and the kind of music you like...
  12. I use cruise all of the time on the motorway. Although I actually find the Evora system quite frustrating as it doesn't have an 'engaged' indicator, and if you do re-engage it when you are at or slightly over the set speed it doesn't smoothly take over, it will drop 3-4mph fairly quickly, bimble for a bit and then climb back up again - which makes you think it's not engaged itself properly... The typical Japanese layout with set being the "+" and resume being the "-" also seems a bit more logical to me - and would have probably freed up space for steering wheel audio controls as cruise could be on one side and audio on the other..
  13. Have you pulled the tweeter out yet? In other cars I've seen a capacitor on the terminal of the tweeter to act as a passive crossover (to block low frequencies) - it could be that's what Lotus have done with the 400... Upgrading the speakers is on my list of things to do so interested in your findings! *edit* looking at the wiring diagram posted above, 'Tweeter Crossover 4.7uF' suggests that it is a capacitor - Farads is the unit of measurement for them...
  14. Thanks - newer V5Cs have a section for Euro Compliance, but not sure when it was added.. I'm hoping it's just a database error and it's easy enough to get them to update their records
  15. Does yours list Euro6 compliance on the V5C?
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