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Everything posted by toyroom

  1. just failed MOT on emissions...CO2 was between 0.35 and 0.6: tried cleaning the air filters and driving fast and revving the engine a lot but still to no avail. Plugs were changed 2 months ago and engine feels a bit lumpy at idle. Plan to change ECU temperature sender and auxiliary injector O rings...any other suggestions. Car is 97 V8 with about 75,000 miles Thanks
  2. Well? Has anyone? This is a real issue which could damage any of our cars (or us) someone has to make a stand. Someone out there must have the necessary qualifications in engineering. All that is needed for a tyrant to gain control is for men of good conscience to remain silent.
  3. Like I said, anyone out there got the right qualifications and wants to take on this crusade?
  4. Merseyside UK Lotus suspension upgrade 5 years ago (Bilstein and Eibach and factory settings). Was factory from 1997 previously Pressures 30 front and 28 rear with SmartTire monitors. Michelin Pilot Sport tyres, standard sizes Daily use, 3,000 to 4,000 miles ayear. Fastidiously maintained. Same side and same car and failed same place Moved to this house 10 years ago. Did 20,000 miles and suffered failure in 2007. Factory original suspension to this point. Now, 6 years later, failed again, New Lotus suspension for last 20,000 miles............. .........Oh, I almost forgot. Since living at this address, I estimate I have no option but to drive (very slowly) over 3,500 speed "cushions" a year and 800 nasty speed bumps. I tried to get the council to reduce the ridiculous height and angle of these things and despite a 1,000 signature petition, I was treated like a moron. Any chartered mechanical engineers in the UK want to take this on, please do. By the way, part of my job involves the court system and so all my mates are lawyers.
  5. Has anyone ever broken a front lower wishbone (without having a crash)? Only I have just snapped my second in 13 years.
  6. It might sound laborious, but I swapped the whole lot: Cushions and covers off the passenger seat frame swapped with the same from the driver seat frame. This means the frames, runners and angle knob are where they always were, but the cushions and covers have been swapped. It took about 3 hours and wasn't that difficult, just tedious. I took pictures at each significant stage in case I forgot which clips went where.
  7. My car lives in an integral garage and just as I leave the building, about 15 seconds after closing the tailgate, there was a loud creak from the back of the car. For the last 3 months, closing the right side of the tailgate has made an incredible racket composed of creaks and groans. Worried about losing the tailgate release, I tried all kinds of lubing around the pins, wires, springs etc. The solution: over thr years, the (already manufactured at the wrong angle) luggage compartment light switch bracket has bent forwards causing it to slide a short distance (with a loud creak) as the lid is closed. Removed the floor to weld the right exhaust and while it was out, removed the light bracket and bent it so theat the switch is now exactly perpendicular to the closing tailgate lower surface. Solved! I doubt this would have lead to any kind of failure, but another worrying noise has been defeated. I hope this helps anyone with the same issue.
  8. My left indicator won't cancel. I have replaced the stalk switch and it still won't work. I presume that 70,000 miles of indicating has worn the flange on the back of the boss just enough so that it isn't quite big enough to flick the plastic switch thing which pokes out of the stalk switch housing when the indicator stalk is deployed. Any suggestions? Is the boss off another GM/Vauxhall car (like the stalks are) or will we have to take the boss off and weld a 0.5mm ridge on the flange? Thanks
  9. I have found out how the water gets in ! Jet washing at the car wash squirts hot and soapy water directly into well 6! I get a yellow light and lumpy running (? firing on 7 only) and it clears 5 minutes later.
  10. How about Continentals....They seem to make both sizes in the same type?
  11. How would the Toyo tyres compare with the Good Years or with Yokohamas? Thanks, by the way. I got nowhere with the manufacturer websites
  12. What about Yokohama? well, 20 minutes on the internet and it looks like Good Year Eagle F2 asymmetric are the only tyres made by a famous company where you can get front and rear sizes in the same tyre. any experience with these? yokohama, Toyo, Pirelli and Michelin were dead ends by the way
  13. toyroom

    Exige V6

    Just been out in the factory Exige V6 350bhp! Truly F40 for a fifth of the price!
  14. I will need new tyres soon and I am thinking of trying a change. I have always used the original Michelins (PS3 front and PS2 rear as they don't do front + rear in either type). I have a 97 V8 with OZ Saturns. What would be the pros and cons of different tyre makes and would there be much difference noted if I used 295 on the rear? I presume they will fit but would there be any difference (good or bad)? Thanks
  15. A minor point...there aren't 2 radiators, one is the air con condenser....Whatever you do, don't mess with it without getting the system de gassed. ALso, don't connect the garden hose direct, these radiators (especially the heater rad) are only built to take so much pressure.
  16. I've just read the beginning of this thread again. (That'll teach me) Was the car without these problems prior to the thermostat re-fit? If so, the adage is that the fault is nearly always due to something you have done. Ten bucks says the new thermostat is faulty. Occam's Razor strikes again! Replace the thermostat again and check the removed one for vertical scratches on the central bit. This would indicate sticking.
  17. or a sticky thermostat.....or a busted temperature sender....or a busted guage....or a busted wire.....can you tell I have had my car for over 10 years and nearly EVERYTHING has conked out at one time or another !! It should not get to 120. I have only seen this when the thermostat has failed to open. When you see 120 on the guage, what is your coolant level light doing? On my car ('97), if the coolant level light is flashing, it means that the engine oil is overheating and you are seconds away from a disturbing (but hilarious) catastrophic discharge of half your coolant volume out of the right rear wheelarch. (Yes, this has happened to me as well, it's a good job I love this car). When you see 120, what is the car doing? If you take it for a run at 70 and then park but leave the engine running, the temp will rise and then fall when the fans come on. If the temp simply carries on rising, then the radiator is not functioning and the most likely cause would be a stuck thermostat. The temp should wander between 80 and 100 or so. I would change the temp sender for the guage (I have done this every 2 years for the last 8 years). This is found by lying on top of the engine and looking down into the space between the thermostat housing and cylinder number five (frontmost left). There are two sensors side by side. One is large and looks robust (the ECU feed) and the other is a small crappy little thing. The small one is the one you want. pulling the wire off is easy and then simply remove and replace the sensor (no coolant will spill to speak of). The sensor is tightened with care (do not cross thread it and only tighten it until it feels slightly more than secure....the thread is conical and so easily crossed and never reaches a stop point, so crossing or shearing the damn thing would both be very expensive mistakes) Getting the wire back on is another matter...Do you have any medical friends? You need a pair of sponge forceps. These are like a huge skinny pair of pliers with duckbill shaped ends and make holding the connector very easy. You can probably buy them on the net as disposable items for a few bucks. If you replace the thermostat and the guage sender and you still see 120 with a flashing coolant light, the radiator would be the next target. What does your coolant look like? Is it as clear as a mountain stream or full of rusty, gunky crap? Unless recently changed, if it is clear, then blockage would be less likely. If you see 120 but with no flashing coolant level light, then the guage may be faulty. One other thing.....For safety, I would put your air con on full at all times as this forces the ECU to run the rad fans all the time and will do no harm but may reduce the risk of the wheelarch nightmare. Oh I could go on for hours...Change the thermostat and temp guage sender and get back to us. Hope this helps BTW, I have always considered the heater in a mid engined car as more of an auxillary engine cooler !!
  18. clutch plates: 7mm new, 5.75mm service limit. So hardly any diffrence between new and old !......and there really isn't an alternative. You can get a reconditioned clutch for about half the new price. All the bits that wear are replaced but the bits that don't are not. Lotus say you should always measure the plates assembled and clamped to the flywheel by the way. This does make them ever so slightly thinner and with only 1.25mm between new and old, the tiny difference is quite significant.
  19. I hate jacking the back of mine as the gearbox input shaft has a slight leak which gets much worse if I jack the back up!
  20. radiator: open the engine bay and get an assistant (this is an ideal time to make the wife share the pain, or a crafty way to introduce yourself to a neighbour). Undo the bleed bolt in the rad and then get ready to replace it. Ask the assistant to remove the expansion tank cap. Air will escape from the bleed hole and then some burbling coolant and air (about 2 to 3 seconds) and then as soon as the burble stops, replace the bolt. You should lose less than 100ml of coolant and so putting an old towel around the rad and suspension should keep everything shiny clean. Also wear gloves because cooland is horrible sticky crap when it dries on your hands. Same goes for the engine bleed (only without the assistant. Use the towel again and then unscrew the grub scew. (Note that it is a weird imperial size: 3/8 inch I think) If you get coolant coming out with the expansion cap off, put the screw back. If not, addit a little at a time and the put the screw back as soon as you get coolant. Repeat this procedure in 100 miles. You should spill hardly any. I would have the heater on full hot when bleeding. My bleed screw is stuck fast so I do this by lifting the top of the hose with a small pry bar but the effect is the same. Manual and parts manual can be found on e-bay on CD ROM for next to nothing by the way.
  21. I have just had a thought....Would any harm result if you blocked the IAC pipe where it joins the high pressure duct just before the throttle body. This would mean that if you stiil got your problem, it wouldn't be the IAC and you could find out without needing to take the turtle off which is a pain....especially if you have EGR fitted. Secondly....does the IAC have its own fuse? could it be isolated with the engine at slow idle and therefore would stay shut. I mean, most of the time the IAC is shut and so I can't imagine any problems resulting from temporarily blocking it. You might get a yellow light but this would self cancel after restoring the system. My IAC tube blew off once when the red pipe became disconnected from the boost controller and the engine was overboosting. Apart from going like a Diablo on steroids, no harm resulted.
  22. My '97 V8 does this about once every 500 miles. It usually rights itself after about 2 minutes and seems to happen more in the summer and when the engine has just been worked a bit. The IAC valve only usually puts the revs up to about 1400, so I would think that is unlikely to be the problem. If disconnecting the battery fixes the problem, it's probably related to the ECU or one of its peripherals. I have always thought that the likely cause of this issue is that the car is so rare and the engine ECU unique that all possible eventualities could not be investigated during development. This means that occasionally, a scenario might arise that is misinterpreted by the ECU and treated as a warm-up situation. Hence the fast idle superimposed on a hot engine. .....or it could just be a sticking throttle linkage that seizes a little bit more due to the heat! .....or even a combination of all 3! Try lubing the linkage. Find a lube spray with PTFE if possible
  23. I have a quaife LSD. I wouldn't dream of running an Esprit without one. Don't wait for the the thing now before you die on the next wet corner!
  24. go and look at "Loss of power at high revs" My car is garaged and it doesn't rain much in Liverpool and my plug wells 6 and 7 (middle 2 on the left) are still full of water. The problem is hugely reduced by the later ('98 I think) cam covers which have drains
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