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toyroom

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Everything posted by toyroom

  1. Excellent excuse to take the trunk floor out (10 minutes) and inspect the drivetrain in all its glory!
  2. Right. I know this is an old thread, but I have a question. This whole thread is about clutch drag. If the pipes are intact, there is no leaking and no stretching of pipe walls (red pipe disease included). Also, if the system has been thouroughly bled and the correct fluid used...AND both cylinders are intact...And the pedal travel is correct (Check for no emty tin cans/boxes or miniature dogs preventing the pedal going all the way down to the floor) ,...Then the problem is that the five plates in the clutch are not fully separating even though the clutch fork is pulling the correct amount. To anyon who's not seen one, the twin plate clutch is a Scooby Doo sandwich of (From the engine rearwards) Flywheel, friction plate, metal plate, friction plate and metal plate. The whole lot sits in a six legged metal cage like a gazebo with no windows. The problem is that for whatever reason, one of the metal plates is not moving far enough away from one of the froction plates, or, one of the friction plates is not free enough to slide away from the flywheel in the direction of the back of the car. Whatever, one of the metal slices of the sandwich is touching one of the friction plate slices. This means that the input shaft is still rotating when the car is stopped and the clutch is pressed fully down. This will make selecting gears hard work (and noisy as the dog teeth try and egage a moving target) and hard work getting the thing out of gear. It's exactly the same effect as not quite pressing the pedal far enough. What I would like to know is why this has happened four times in two years and only 5,000 miles in my '97 twin plate V8...Any suggestions ? The previous clutch did 25,000 with no wear. Once it was a main dealer spline cock up, but twice it has been one of the metal plates sticking in the cage. I got a suggested fix up for this problem. It didn't work for me but it might for you. We removed the trunk floor, the slave cylinder and the slave cylinder housing. We jacked up the car, put it on axle stands and put it in 5th gear. We then turned the clutch slowly by rotating the rear wheels and sprayed clutch cleaner on the cage legs as they passed the slave cylinder aperture in the bell housing. Then we started the engine so that the clutch cleaner and kack would be centrifuged off into the bell housing (clutch looks really inpressive at 3,000 RPM !) We did this twice and then put everything back...no better. Oh dear, clutch number 5! On a humorous note...The second time we forgot to take it out of gear when we started it!! Wow !! 55mph on the speedo with the engine on fast idle !! Good job it didn't gyro off the axle stands and power through the garage wall into next door's front garden. That would have taken some explaining!!
  3. Summer 1981 Earl's Court...I was there!
  4. When I was under the car at the weekend, the turbos, manifolds and wastegares all seemed secure. The actuator rods came under scrutiny as there was a circlip missing from one side. My muffler is a sport "track use only" unit and therefore probably just an empty can anyway. The car sounds the same with the exhaust removed as it does with it fitted !. The noise is definitely from somewhere near the right turbo and only at 2500 to 3000. The gear in use, roadspeed and clutch position make no difference at all.
  5. Well, the picture was a huge help and after getting the turbo low pressure duct off, I could get both hands on the back bolt. It looks like the main dealer had fixed this problem a few years ago by putting a blob of weld on a washer and another on the stud (both done from above while the engine was out! So, the main problem was sanding what was left of the weld off the stud (this had cracked and was the reason the shield was loose) Finally got a nut on the stud after 2 hours struggle and then took it off and put the real Lotus nut on. All sorted and the clatter is fixed..... ....Car still has a metallic rattle coming from the bottom right engine area between 2500 and 3000 revs...AAAAARRRRGH !!!! Any suggestions ? The right cat makes a slightly different noise when I hit it but doesn't seem to rattle. The noise is loud enough to be heard from behind the car with the tailgate shut.
  6. My horns sometimes sound like they are under water. They have been replaced once. Sometimes the horrible distorted sound is only present inside the car while outside it sounds fine. The factory reckon it might be the compressor. The horns didn't look like air units to me but it was a year ago! Does the factory horn set up use a compressor or two separate electric horns? If I try to access the horns by removing a few panels, will I live to regret it?
  7. get under the car with a rubber mallet and give each cat a whack with it. If one goes thunk and the other goes tinkle tinkle, then that one might be busted. It's more likely that the dratted heat shield on the exhaust manifold is rattling and the yellow light is a sensor failure.
  8. I have an upgrade 'box with taller ratios, closer ratios, dropped fifth, one piece shaft, LSD and taller final drive. Loads better but the tall ratios make judder massively worse in the first two gears and the launch off the line is not as shocking...but, the acceleration thru the gears is so much better. I only wish someone would solve the clutch problem. I have now had four clutches since the 'box was first fitted. First was rogered by a main dealer. Second was replaced in the hope of fixing the judder. The third seized with massive heat damage and the current one was fitted by the factory along with a new flywheel but still judders at 1400 revs. Worse in the winter and worse when fully warmed up. A quick word about Kevin Jones at GTO to anyone considering this upgrade (or indeed wanting to export to the UK). I don't think I have ever dealt with anyone in the field of mechanical engineering whom I could recommend more highly. Perhaps that's why you will have heard of some of his clients. Take two of them: Kevin calls them Nick and Dave. You will know them by the name of their partnership!
  9. I had this problem years ago on a Mercedes 190e....Went on for months, got worried to death....Turned out to be a plastic bag melted on to the exhaust. This is why I always check the mirror when I run over a bag in the road and check under the car if I don't see the bag behind me. Is there any smoke? There are loads of places the V8 can leak oil onto hot metal. Are you positive the handbrake is off. I once drove all the way to work without noticing the handbrake was on. This causes "blueing" of the discs due to the heat damage (A bit like the blue discolouration on chrome motorbike exhaust pipes near the engine, but less noticeable) Are you keeping your left foot well away from the clutch pedal. The release is very light and just the weight of your foot can cause a small imperceptable slip which will cause such a smell. That said, mine smells of clutch for about twenty seconds almost every time I stop and get out of it...and petrol...and combustion...and rubber...and leather...The smell of a supercar !!
  10. How likely would a problem be if these things just dropped off ? I mean, a piece of metal is a very good conductor and surely once thermal equilibrium is reached, the temperature of the air on both sides of the shield will be the same as most heat in this area is presumably radiated rather than convected. Or does the air between the shield and the manifold work like a wet suit in reverse? BTW, I think that the idea of this being resonance is true as my rattle happens dead on 2500 revs. It gets quieter as it warms up, but is always at that point. One answer would be a small weight on the shield itself to alter the resonant frequency.
  11. It's more a question of how to get the nuts on the studs. I tried the pictures but my Deutsch isn't up to it ! Thanks and I'll have a go.
  12. Anyone know a good way of replacing the nuts on the exhaust heat shield? I am sure it is doing no harm but it makes a right racket when it's cold and despite knowing it's only a cosmetic noise, it is a bit embarassing to start up your beautiful supercar in front of Joe Public only to suffer the tittering at the "cement mixer full of tin cans" noise next to the engine!
  13. Are you sure it is the manifold rattling and not the heat shield? Mine has done this a few times and sounds exactly the same as you describe only with a sonorous ring to it.
  14. Kevin at GTO reckons my gearbox should take 500bhp and higher than factory torque with no problem. It has the one piece shaft an Quaife upgrade. It's not cheap though. The shaft alone costs a packet. I upgraded mine when the'box failed. What about a boost controller? My red wastegate pipe came off in January and the car was INCREDIBLY fast until the IAC valve hose was blown off by the pressure and I found myself driving the only normally aspirated V8 on the road. Strangely enough, the car wasn't that much slower without the turbos but much faster without the wastegates. Seriously considering a boost controller! You should have heard the racket from the dump valves when it was overboosting !
  15. Thanks...I'll look at that. Is the valve the kind of thing you might replace, or would it be run a mile and hide your head in the sand?
  16. Nope, tried all that including a completely new sensor. doesn't rad repair gum up the fine channels in the heater matrix?
  17. My '97 V8 instrument binnacle coolant level warning light keeps coming on. This happens about 30 seconds after a cold start and sometimes straight after starting. The light goes out with the thid or fourth bit of spirited acceleration but comes back on when returning to idle. The tendancy for the light to be on gets progressively less as the car warms up but still sometimes comes on at idle. This has happened for about a year now and in that time, the coolant level has never dropped and is completely normal and where it should be. I have changed the sensor and thouroughly cleaned the contacts of the sensor wires. Sometimes the light flickers on cornering (like it would if the level was right on the edge of the sensor trigger and the lateral acceleration sloshed coolant to the side of the tank causing the sensor to switch on), but I tried putting way too much coolant in and it made no difference to the pattern of light behaviour. The wiring all seems intact and I've rattled the loom around a bit to try and avoid shorts but no change. There is also no change in the light (on or off) if the wiring is jiggled about while the engine is running. There was a time when thumping the top of the coolant tank made the light go out, but this no longer seems to work and if this was a true phenomenon, then the new sensor should have cured it. I also considered that the coolant may have dropped and then stayed stable but low, but the extra coolant test as detailed above made no difference. It doesn't bother me that this happens as I know the coolant is OK and aas long as the light goes out at some point, things are likely to be OK. It's just annoying that we can't find the fault....Any suggestions? By the way, in the last 3 months, the car has had a new battery and a new alternator (no change in bulb behaviour) so I doubt it is a voltage problem. Thanks
  18. Over the last three months, about ten to twelve times, my servo has failed for the first two or three brake presses. This is always from cold and occasionally the third or fourth press rather than the first. On one occasion only, there was a hiss from the vivinity of the servo. This seems to be getting less as the weather warms up. The brakes still work when this happens but they need Godzilla like pedal pressure. I am told it may be condensation causing the servo to stick. There are no apparent leaks, everything is tight and 99.9% of the time it's totally normal...any suggestions?
  19. Right, here is something else to consider: Coefficient of friction factors are what cause glass to squeak as you drag a finger across its surface. The squeak is the glass version of judder. If the judder is from the clutch, I would expect it to change under different conditions. My judder is definitely better in warm and dry environments (Summer in Liverpool) and worse on cold or wet days. It also gets worse as the clutch warms up such as moving about a car park or traffic line. The judder occurs just before final uptake of the drive (last 10% of pedal travel) and at more or less 1400 revs. For all these reasons, I deduce that all cars have some clutch judder and mine is more obvious due to the wacky gearbox I've got. Dave's car has the same judder on a standard 'box but much less obvious. If your problem was mechanical such as something a bit bent like the flywheel not running completely true or the mounts gone, surely the problem wouldn't change with the weather. If your problem varies, it's probably not a loose thing and more likely a friction thing. I hope this logic helps and be aware, I have replaced the clutch three times and the flywheel once with all new factory parts (and done at the factory) and it made no difference at all. The factory transmission guru agreed totally with the first paragraph above. With regards to the engine mounts etc, just leave the engine cover off and look in the mirror (or over your shoulder if it is safe to do so) (find a big empty car park) You'll be amazed (and shocked) how much the engine moves even with all new mounts. It does move less with new ones however. As an aside, this business of one of the clutch plates closing before the other can't be completely true as the two friction plates cannot move independently of each other because they are both splined to the same shaft. If the car is in gear, nothing at all moves beyond the flywheel and cover until the back wheels move. As movement increases, slip between the flywheel and friction plates decreases, (as the clutch engages by closing) but due to the above fact, the slip must always be the same for both plates. Doesn't mean that the clutch isn't holding the first plate tighter, but both plates must slip at the same rate as they are rotationally locked together.
  20. Does your heater work ? I only ask as mine completely clogged with crap after the cylinder liners went. After the heater rad was replaced, everything else started working. It only happens under extreme heatsoak however. ie Drive at 70mph for an hour then sit in traffic for twenty minutes then park in a garage in August on a sunny day in Enland (ambient temp say 28 degrees) if you do this it might come on for a few minutes and you can hear it all working. This all may be a red herring and maybe your temperature sensor is faulty. There are two: one for the guage and one for the ECU. I have been through three of the guage ones but never changed the ECU one.
  21. I have the taller final drive as well, maybe that is why I get a bit of judder. (Car max speed in 1st gear is 61mph). Max in top would be 199 if there was enough power.
  22. I have a GTO box with EVERYTHING. If you have any questions, please ask! I have to say that it is seldom you find a more helpful, committed and knowledgable guy than Kevin at GTO.
  23. As a matter of interest ( see car shudder post) What are your gearbox plans ? I may be able to give you the benefit of my experience (and contacts) With respect to the oil pipes, replace them with better, less expensive ones. My Lotus items have failed twice due to being not very well made.
  24. Oh hell, or should I say merde ? I could probably write you a biblioteque full of books on this subject...just ask Dave, he knows all about it. It is a very long and sometimes funny but occasionally infuriating story recorded somewhere else on this forum, but... My car has a special gearbox with a 1 piece input shaft and taller closer ratios, a taller final drive and a limited slip differential. This means that once it is doing about 30mph it performs much better through the gears but the downside is that you are moving off in the equivalent of a gear slightly higher than the standard second gear. I have had four clutches since the 'box was fitted. The first was wrecked by a main dealer who fitted the gearbox. The second juddered like you describe and I replaced it and the third was damaged by overheating. The fourth was fitted by the factory along with all new bits and a new flywheel. And it judders just the same. I tried driving Dave's car and doing a hill start in second, the judder was exactly the same only less pronounced. The factory got their transmission guy and the AP guy (clutch maker) involved and they decided that the judder was normal and simply more obvious with this taller gearbox. Right: 1. The judder is much less in the Summer. 2. It is worse once the clutch is warm (after a spell in slow traffic for example). 3. It happens at exactly 1400 revs 4. It It happens right at the end of the travel and hence is probably the second plate final take up. 5. The factory described it as "acceptable" I therefore suggest that this is a coefficient of friction problem with a bit of resonance thrown in. It seems better when it is dry (Summer) and yet worse when it is hot (traffic jam). It is easy to overcome by keeping the revs above 1400 but this means slipping the clutch a bit and may increase wear. I can say this: If you said here is your old gearbox back with no judder, I would be 60:40 against this as the closer ratio gearbox is so much better once the car is moving. I suppose what it really needs is the gearbox I have with an extra gear below my first with a similar ratio to the standard first gear. Maybe on the new Esprit if it ever happens....?
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