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toyroom

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Everything posted by toyroom

  1. Mine too! Last time the wife was in the car there was a right rumpus from the front as I reversed off the path. The "oh no, what now does this mean no Christmas present this year" face that accompanies the phrase: "Is that normal?" is absolutely worth the admission price on its own!! Considering everything else that needs considering, the turning circle of the Esprit is incredibly tight and one of the things that makes the car much more practical than people think. The price is this judder. Forgive me for suppressing a laugh at the sound of the phrase: "I can relax now" ! All I can say is that it is worth it, but oh boy are these cars problem children sometimes !!!
  2. Mine clunks slightly and occasionally and it was all brand new a year ago. It only happens on sudden drops such as after a pain in the ar....sorry, speed cushion or to be totally PC, traffic calming measure. Sometimes it happens under sudden braking and if I do get a clunk it is usually after not driving the car for a few days. Could it be Kack on the discs through not using it for a few days? Incidentally, for no prize at all, does anyone know where the word "Kack" comes from? By the way, my car has the new suspension all round and despite a huge change in performance, these very occasional clunks are no different. This is one of the reasons I wonder if it is the brakes rather than bush or bearing.
  3. My '97 V8 had grilles but no speakers,...and...no holes cut in the leather but holes in the dash. I can only presume that the big hole for the speaker body is there on all cars and that the speaker grilles are also standard but that the front speakers were part of an option pack. Whether this was an option for the customer or the factory guy building the car, we will never know without a brochure from that period. The workshop manual shows four speakers. However, and here the plot thickens. I have seen another '97 V8 that I presume is younger than mine as it has a high level brake light built into the rear wing and yet my car has separate tweeters in the door panels as well as the main speakers. They are obviously factory fitted from the way the trim is fitted. I can only suggest that they were an option from new. Next...have a firkle around behind your seats, down where the seatbelt roller unit would be if it was inside the car and press on the carpet covering the engine/cabin bulkhead. I bet you find that behind the carpet there is a hole about six inches across. I did. I bravely removed the carpet and that was where I found the other end of the mysterious pair of wires leaving the stereo connector from the so called rear speaker connectors. I now have a marvellous eight speaker set up (including the tweeters) with a pair in the dash, a pair in the doors and a pair of tweeters as the front speaker system and a pair of larger units in the bulkhead as the rears. I think personally that this is simply a sign of a low volume hand built piece of engineering. You would be very lucky to find two the same. Mine, for instance, has a '98 Momo wheel and '98 MY OZ Saturn wheels...and I've taken the spoiler off. I would fit as many speakers as you can as they are not that heavy or expensive compared to the substantial increase in quality that they bring. Hope this helps.
  4. Well, as it happens, I can tell you that exactly the same happened to my '97 V8 last month! See the post "flat battery" to which I added the punchline yesterday. I think that what is happening with your car is that the rectifier in the alternator is half broken. In other words, half of the rectifier is no longer a pair of one way diodes, but in fact a pair of two way conductors. This means that when the ignition is off, the battery is connected to the bulb via the rectifier and hence the bulb lights when the ignition is off. When you look at the circuit diagram (exciter wire to alternato comes via the bulb), the only way that the bulb can light is if the alternator end of its wiring is shorted out and the only logical way for this to happen is if the diodes are working as conductors. I would try disconnecting the thin red wire from the alternator (disconnect the red battery terminal first!) and then reconnect the battery. If the bulb fails to light with the battery connected and the ignition off, but lights when you touch the thin red wire back to its terminal then there must be a short in the alternator. The next thing that will happen is that the bulb will blow due to overheating and you will have TDOJ (the devil's own job) of replacing the damn thing. If you do, the bulbs are NLA but the factory tell me you can use a 3W bulb if you need to. After the bulb blows, you will have no charging at all and your car will die about 80 daylight to 20 headlight hours later. I would recommend getting the alternator replaced as soon as possible and disconnect it and the battery in the meantime and put your battery on charge. At least that way you may avoid busting the bulb and will definitely avoid being stranded. As a matter of interest, have you noticed any decline in your car's performance since this started. Only mine is going like it's got afterburners since it was fixed. Alternator is
  5. The answer !! When we got the alternator off, it was compleetely shorted both ways. I deduce from this that the diodes in the rectifier were not working as diodes anymore. The bulb in the dash was gone. Replaced both, and the battery and car now performing like a rocket sled. Admittedly it was wet, but wheelspin at 75mph with a limited slip diff installed is pretty impressive. All the electrical stuff is working better (brighter lights etc.). Looks like this is what happened (is this possible?): Alternator partially fails with intermittent DC charging; alternator shorts the charge light on the dash which then stays on all night and overheats the bulb causing it to fail; alternator now stops being excited into working but battery conditioner keeps battery full enough to get me to work and back for a couple of weeks. Eventually, the battery is not charged enough to be still alive at the end of a long day and the whole thing is dead. I jump start the car off the wife's car (Esprit unpopularity hits all time low in the freezing December dark night) and foolishly take the jump leads off with the engine running, probably rogering what was left of the alternator. Then I found out that the bulbs are no longer available (2W caseless) but that 3W will do. Jon came to the rescue with a '97 instrument binnacle complete with bulbs. (and a spare battery--one of the benefits of an Esprit enthusiast just up the road from the office!) So, in case this helps in the future: 1. The charging circuit only works when the bulb does. 2. You can use 3W bulbs. 3. Battery conditioners are great for holidays but probably best left off for the rest of the year. 4. Always carry jump leads. 5. Don't take the jump leads off a flat battery with the engine running. 6. The best way to get home with a flat battery (and no alternator) is probably with jump leads and a spare fully charged battery. 7. The secondary injectors have TWO O rings on them...See the O ring post !!
  6. OK, so it's not flat, it's sqare...Has anyone heard of a battery going completely flat and then failing to hold charge therafter ? I have heard of this and a local expert has also. Basically, I have not seen the charge light on the dash for a while (Which can mean the bulb has gone and therefore so has the switch-on for the alternator. The car has had more problems than you can shake a stick at in the last twelve months and has therefore been on the battery conditioner a lot. This has created the illusion of a working charge circuit with the car running on battery alone. This week it went back to work for the first time without conditioning and sure enough, after standing with the alarm on for a whole day...no power at all in the battrery...not even enough to light the alarm LED. Once the car was jump started, it stopped about 20 seconds after disconnecting the jump leads. Hence: dead battery and dead charge circuit. I charged the battery overnight and then left the car locked and alarmed with the conditioner connected. 1 hour later, alarm goes off and the alarm was then switched off and the car left open with the battery connected but everything off. 8 hours later, got home to find battery totally flat agin and conditioner failing to "top up" when turned on. Conclusion: charge bulb probably gone and hence charge function not working; alternator maybe OK, don't know, battery, well, what does anyone reckon ? I was going to get a new battery and try and change the bulb in the warning light...how the heck do you get the binnacle off ? Any comments on the whole story would be welcome. The car drove home 7 miles absolutely fine with a spare battery connected by jump leads.
  7. Any tips on removing the instrument boomerang pod cover so that I might change the bulb in the charge warning light ? Is it really only held on with three screws ?
  8. I've replaced mine with alloy units, but las to how you know, last time they died (happens every 3 to 4 years with the standard items) I got a Check Engine light and the ECM download informed us that the wastegate capsules were busted. They usually seem to just go loose and hence you will get less boost as the wastegate offers no resistance.
  9. I was thouroughly enjoying the sound of the various turbo whinings which seemed much louder recently, when I discovered the reason for the increase in volume from the left turbo was that the cat pipe had completely separated from the flange which is used to bolt it to the turbo!! This also explained why the left tailpipe gas was much hotter than the right (lees volume, so moving slower) and non-pulsatile. My car sounds exactly the same with or without the muffler! I presume it is either an empty box or a can with two straight thru' pipes
  10. I have a new angle on this ! It kind of makes some sense too. The factory reckon that my leak may be due to some degree of wear on the driveshaft itself, thus leading to the seal not quite being tight on the shaft. Not heard that on before but may try a new shaft. Can the O ring of which you speak be replaced in a similar manner to the seal ? By the way, what country am I from, I don't recognize that flag at all !!
  11. Well....how long have you got. The rough notes for the little tome I plan to write about my adventures in a StHelens landscape loaded with snazzy cars like mine ! Every last one with a goddamn drive shaft leak. I should be grateful I suppose, that mine was not quite the deluge it has been. Three goes they had at fixing this. new seal, new mastic and then new pins. STILL leasking !!! Our garage is so full of oily puddles that looks like an SR-71 barn (and with the sports exhaust, it damn well sounds like one as well !!!!!
  12. Rob: What was the source of the second clutch ? Was it a complete new unit from Lotus / AP or was it a reconditioned unit? Both of my juddering clutches were using relined friction plates and I am (almost convinced that this is the cause of the problem as I never experienced it before having had 3 clutches previously, all Lotus original parts.
  13. The thing is, the car didn't judder at all before I changed the gearbox and I asked Kevin if technique was an issue but he said that this was unlikely as he had also noticed it. I thought there was no lubrication on the splines. The judder is different to the "Not quite using enough gas" version. It is very regular like a scratch on a record. Almost like there is a raised line at one point on the flywheel (but we now know this is not the case). I still think this is to do with using relined plates which might not be using the same quality friction material, but I would welcome any other suggestions. I must admit that I feel loads better for these comments, so thanks ! The judder definitely seems to be getting less with time and is almost absent sometimes. There is, however, no pattern. Sometimes it seems worse when it is cold, but then it can be almost non existent in freezing conditions. Still made up with the new gearbox, it's so much better than the standard item and the LSD makes a massive difference to the "going nowhere" effect at junctions in the wet.
  14. The quoted ride height in the entry above: 150 KG of occupants and half full of gas; 170 front and 165 rear. To what bit of the car are these heights measured ? Thanks To Andy Blackman: It never fails to amaze me...No matter how many years I own an Esprit and how many pictures I see of this car, every single one is absolutely drop dead gorgeous, just like yours ! My new suspension is still terrific, but if you let me know where to measure to, I will check my ride height.
  15. I have tried a few including Autoxray and Gendan. Marvellous products, wonderful technical support and aftersales. Useless for my car ('97 UK V8) I think that the Esprit is so idiosyncratic that almost every car built was a prototype and hence, make sure that if you buy one of these things, there is an option for a refund if it doesn't work. These things are like parachutes, unless they ALWAYS work they are no use as the one time your engine light comes on a thousand miles from the nearest dealer, it has got to work or it's no use! On the other hand, I have used laptop software that works very well. (Proscan was one). As far as I know, most factors concerning the V8 will be similar in Europe and the USA. My car has all kinds of California reqirements stuck in the engine bay and things like an EGR valve despite being a UK 1997 car. I suppose that when you only build 300 cars a year, you can't afford to make several versions for different markets and so if you can, you only make one car that satisfies all regions. Obviously this isn't true of all factors, but a California Esprit and a European LHD Esprit will be likely to have more in common than the equivalent Range Rovers for example. This was true of the Bertoe/Fiat X1/9 for the same reasons.
  16. I tried the forum search as I was confident that this would be covered. I got 1,000 forum topics and only one of the first 20 mentioned a clutch! So I don't know if this has been explored before... About a year ago, my gearbox went at about 50,000 miles (as they all do) and I got Kevin at GTO to build me a new, tougher, close ratio lsd equipped box. The dealer who fitted the box to the car (NOT Kevin) completely rogered the box and the clutch by tightening the gearbox on to the engine at an angle. Fortunately, Kevin saw the funny side and I got the gearbox replaced and fitted correctly by his garage. Ever since, there has been significant judder just before the end of the clutch pedal travel (about the last 2 to 3 cm) I am told that this represents the plate next to the engine engaging as the other plate engages first (The car is a '97 V8 with a twin plate clutch) So, ten months and several non related problems later, I took the transmission off the car with the help of a genuine Lotus genius on the Wirral. We replaced all of the clutch components with reconditioned parts and dressed the flywheel. The bearing was not replaced.
  17. I've found a huge improvement with the K&N filters and hi flow cats at the same time. I got mine from PNM with the usual CORRECT advice. What you [email protected] want to do is.... drop the front bottom bolt as it falls into a cavity in the chassis and takes all day to retrieve. I think that next time, I will stuff a rag down the gap between the engine and the body as it is so easy to drop that particular screw. Come to think of it, it would have been much easier if they had put a row of lugs, or a slot or groove for the bottom of the filter housing to engage with the filter box then closing like a door and being held in place by the three top bolts. That way, you would never have to: 1. Struggle with the bottom bolts; 2. Drop one (or more) of the bolts with the struggle to retrieve them, and; 3. Have any concern that the bottom bolts are sufficiently tight without; 4. NIGHTMARE....that sinking feeling when an important and difficult to get to thread in a big and expensive to replace part, starts "turning forever" Anyway, definitely get some replacement filters!
  18. Same here...What is the "E- Brake" ?? On this subject, wouldn't it be nice if the new Esprit could have an electronic handbrake like the one in my wife's S-Type jag? It makes life incredibly easy compared to the nightmare "reach if you can and squash your face on the windscreen while you do" handbrake in the current car.
  19. Cats, exhausts, clutch, alternator,suspension,radiator and oil coolers and windscreens are NOT normal wear and tear. If that lot went on a Ford Escort, you would want a refund. I love my Esprit more than anyone loves theirs, but I am no longer under any illusion that it is reasonable to run. Reliable, yes. Devoid of frequent, expensive problems, No. I am afraid my wife is right on this one. The car may be BMW M3 purchase price, but I'm afraid it's Ferrari running costs! If you expect to keep your Esprit in the manner it expects, deep pockets are required frequently otherwise the whole thing becomes a false economy. Witness some of the home made disasters that dealers have to rescue (if they can)
  20. toyroom

    New Esprit

    Went and had a good look at the new mid engined Audi today. Front looks and awful lot like the circulating pictures of the new Esprit and the air intakes are in exactly the same place. Also has a mid mounted German V8. Could this be a Vauxhall VX200 style deal? We'll give you the engine if you design a similar mid engined car for us to sell !?? Only with Vauxhall it was afactory rather than an engine. I hope the Esprit is going to be more striking as good though it is, the Audi is not a show stopper like the Ital silver S1 was all those years ago. Strange that Audi should market such a car at this price (
  21. :laughing: TA- DAAAAA !!!!!!!! Found the damn leak AT LAST, hooray, yipeeeee.!!!!!!!!! After two miserable years of saying "But it can't be the tanks because.....," And it wasn't the tanks, two grand saved !!!!! Now to try and convince the wife to let me buy the new ECM instead !! (After I fix the radiator, of course !!) We found the leak!!!! Then, bugger me with a fish fork !!! Somebody tells me the next day that he knew all along !!!!! That was Mike from the parts ads here on LEW. Apparently, super unleaded petrol attacks conventional hoses and my hoses from the bottom of each tank to the transfer pipe below the car were the old type (despite being fitted at a main dealer three years ago!)Anyway, they absolutely reeked of petrol on the outside and clearly, Peter (PNM Genius) theory that the hoses had become porous was true. The smell has now gone from the car, garage and house. So the moral is: if you want to use high octane petrol, get the newer hoses! The actual performance of the two of us removing the hoses together to avoid a sideways jet of fuel up the wall would probably have made an hilarious home video, but alas, never a video camera when you need one !!
  22. I am not having a good year! Not twenty four hours after finally killing, cremating and sending the ashes of the petrol smell into outer space and my coolant light comes on. I have had a rebuild at the factory, there is an odd wisp of steam from the left headlamp pod and a load of sweet tasting (tiny taste only !) water all over the left end of the underfloor plastic below the radiator. Well, don't need to be Tony Rudd to know that either: 1. The radiator is leaking and needs a new one, or 2. One of the radiator pipes is leaking and needs a new one, or 3. Someone with a very strange sense of humour is going to extraordinarily sophisticated lengths to play a very complicated practical joke on me. Well, it's obviously number 3, so please own up !! With the principle of replacing standard (or substandard) kit with better stuff, like hi flow cats or K&N filters, is there any such thing for the radiator like a better, higher performance and yet strangely less expensive replacement that anyone knows of?? To OP, If you park the car in a garage or somewhere dry with the engine running for ten minutes, is there any trace of fluid on the ground that didn't used to be there? Turn the air con off for ten miles before and during this test as the air con unit discharges distilled water normally. If there is a mysterious puddle, dip it with a tissue and if it's the same colour as the content of your water header tank, you have found your leak. There is another way to test for antifreeze, but it's dangerous so better not say it in the interest of PC! If the level in the tank is falling and there is no evidence of a leak, check for the signs of head gasket failure (Yellow scum in the oil filler cap, RISING oil level, little black tadpoles in the coolant and sparkly red rust dust in the coolant header tank cap socket.) as these are also the signs of cylinder liner failure which is so common as to be abnormal if it doesn't happen! If you find any of these, pray for a lottery win, both unlikely to help, but might provide some moral support ready for the ten grand bill,....sorry!
  23. Well, got the alloy adjustable wastegate acuators fitted ( with difficulty on the left side) and car is performing very similar to before with similar boost guage readings. What do I do next ? I watched the set up and I now understand how the ECM works all of this with the pressure and why a bigger spring would increase boost by making it harder for the wastegate to open before the ECM would have a chance to start. The key was understanding which way the vacuum was sucking and how the ECM can only delay wastegate opening and hence increase boost, but cannot expedite the wastegate opening and so cannot limit boost. So, what next ? What would be the effect of going to the next spring ? Is the ECM damaged by the fitting of the chips or can they be simply pulled off if you decide you don't like them? Finally, has anyone got a spare 1997 V8 ECM they would like to sell for a reasonable price whilst I get one upgraded, I can drive around on the other. It would also give me a spare for comparison etc. Anyway, has anyone got one ? Tried Espritism, but they have closed fopr the duration ! Thanks !
  24. So it gets done as a self contained set up procedure. Like checking tyre pressure or tread depth but more complex and involved. Thanks !!
  25. Go for the PNM caliper/disc set. It looks like it would stop an SR-71 going downhill fast !!! ANd it's outstanding value. With the AP stuff, you would need to remortgage the car for 90% of it's value just fr the discs and pads !!!!
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