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jonroberts last won the day on April 19 2015

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About jonroberts

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  • Name
    Jon Roberts
  • Car
    235G 1976 Esprit S1. Orange/Brown Marcasite.
  • Modifications
    Addition of 12v relays for headlamps, horn, fans and electric windows. Plumbed-in fire extinguisher.
  • Location
    London, UK

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  1. A very noticeable nose dip on the nearside front on braking. Doing a 'bounce' test by pressing down on the wings offered no damping on that side - it was possible to bounce the front easily - whereas the right hardly bounced at all. Screwing the adjustment screw all the way in on both dampers as a test had the offside hard as a rock, but no change at all to the nearside.
  2. Top marks to Protech. I had an email reply from them at 8am this morning stating to return both front dampers to them. Free of charge repair to the failed one and a check and repair if required to the other. Makes a pleasing change to get a quick and customer focused response. I’ll drop the dampers out next week and send them away.
  3. Update on the Protech dampers. So, just over 2 years to the day after fitting the Protech's all round, the nearside front damper has failed - almost no damping action regardless of the adjustment knob. I've emailed Protech support to see if they will honour their 3 year warranty as claimed on their website, as SJ (where I bought them from) only state a 2 year warranty.. Will report once Protech respond ...
  4. Regarding cleanup of your carb casings, I also found that ultrasonic cleaning didn't bring them up as good as I'd like. So I made a home-made soda blasting attachment from an old tyre pressure gun on my compressor. Couple of quid of soda powder from eBay and they came up pretty ok - not quite as good as aqua-blasting though. But the beauty of using soda blasting is that the soda dissolves in water, so a rinse back in the ultrasonic tank and there's no danger of leaving any cleaning media inside. Oh, and a liberal spray of ACF-50 on the carbs and manifold (in fact any exposed alloy) helps to keep the surface corrosion down.
  5. Since the body is off, you can get an idea if any major 'twist' is present by placing a straight edge (4x2 wood works) on top of the front box section, or spanning the front upper shock absorber chassis mountings, and a laser level (one that emits a straight line beam) on the rearmost crossmember and seeing how they line up.
  6. It's only available in the USA as far as I am aware - you'll need to import it or have a buddy over there to get it to you. Jon.
  7. The metal part is a power transistor screwed onto something. Normally they are mounted to a heatsink to dissipate heat from switching loads or amplification. What is it mounted to and where do the wires to it end up ?
  8. Hi Steve. Yes, they are a push fit into the tubes making up the two engine mounts. Its also possible to fit them 'in situ' with the engine still in the car, but needs a good raise of the rear end on sturdy axle stands plus some dexterity with your fingers and small tools to access the mounts as they have to be removed to fit the bushes in them.
  9. I do not recommend the poly bushes for the engine mounts in the early S1 setup. I replaced my (melted just like yours) replacement 'uprated' poly bushes for good old standard equipment rubber ones. Added a heat shield and all has been well for many years.
  10. Ticket bought and downloaded, including the Display Pass. PM'd you the booking ref in case you need it. Cheers, Jon.
  11. Hi Martyn, @JNW3 alerted me to this today - I’m away and no access to book the tickets until late tomorrow evening - any chance I can grab the last space please (S1 Esprit). Let me know. Ta. Jon.
  12. Thanks - that prompted me to check the markings on O-ring box that I used, and they weren't Viton, they are just marked as "Nitrile" which I believe is safe for brake fluid. Phew .. I'l see if I can edit my previous post to avoid mistakes . Nope, can't edit it.
  13. I dismantled the ones on my S1 without issue - had to, because they dripped fluid. I had Big Redd send me a seal overhaul kit which in the end also turned out to be the incorrect size. The important one (which prevents the fluid leaking out of the handbrake lever arm) is the O-ring underneath the plate of the arm. I think I just measured up and ordered a Viton ring of the size from the many suppliers on eBay.
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