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Everything posted by jonroberts

  1. Paul. The chassis and mechanicals look in remarkable condition to me. Somebody's definitely been there before for some resto work just by the new nyloc nuts that are visible. Is there any way of getting some kind of 'index' page to the photo's you are linking to ? It's a bit of a pain having to click each photo individually. Or better still, pay Bibs for a membership and upload the photos here for us to all enjoy 🙂 You can add that to the cost itemisation of course! The danger of external linking photos here is that if the external site goes away for any reason, all the references are lost forever and your blog becomes a far less useful. I've seen this happen with a couple of other interesting resto projects both on this site and others.
  2. Pedal box does have the two set bolts on the front. Here is a photo of mine when I first pulled it :
  3. Good luck Paul, this one is in a poor way - but at least you have sourced the ash trays. You'll need them when you take up smoking. BTW, I know where there's nice white one you can rob bits off.... 😆
  4. Haha, looks like it. To be honest I don't even remember seeing him there - he's in my blind spot and way too close ! @Hornsey Boy I use my S1 weekly, any weather. The more I use it the better !
  5. Yes, all the S1/2/3 including Turbo cars have the same column. In my search for what car this came off, @Paul Coleman found it was the same column as a Viva HA and of course a Jensen Healey. The top bearing has a Delco part number (7981056), which of course is no longer available. But unless the bearings are damaged by water/rust the amount of wear they get should be negligible.
  6. Hi Clive. Not sure if the Elite is the same column as the early Esprits, but if it is, the upper bearing is held in a pot-metal housing fixed to the column by four screws. Remove the steering wheel, indicator stalks, circlip and spring, four screws then twist the housing anticlockwise and it should pull off the end of the column. You may need a puller - I didnt. I washed the the bearing out in petrol to assess where the wear was and as you can see in the video it wasn't the bearing race. After drilling and glueing the bearing case in place I re-packed the bearing with grease (from both sides as it is a double row bearing) and re-fitted. All the play was taken out once reassembled.
  7. I discovered the steering wheel was missing two 3mm x 45mm roll pins which release the indicators. For the first time in my ownership (25+ years) the indicators now self-cancel. 😃
  8. The play in the top steering column bearing was not wear in the bearing race. It was the security of the bearing in the pot-metal casting - basically the bearing was floating in it with no firm support. Since this appears to be a sealed component with no replacements available, it presented a challenge ... top-bearing.mp4 Solved by drilling four opposing holes through the outside of the casting and injecting with hot glue to fill the void. Problem solved - now I have a steering column with no lateral play in the top end.
  9. Long time no posting as everything has been fine with the car. I put this down to regular use - it gets a decent weekly drive out, rain or shine. For a long time now I've had annoying squeaks and rattles somewhere from the front end when driving over uneven surfaces. I've not been able to ascertain whether it is internal or external to be honest and might be a combination of both. I suspect its internal around the heater area as the whole front end was rebuilt with new bushes and shocks a year back and the noise existed prior to that. I've also checked the security of the chassis mounting points to the bodywork and they are all still tight. A 'bounce' test on the front doesn't really reveal anything other than some body creaks, so in this period when I can't drive the car much I bit the bullet and pulled the dash out so I can sit in the passenger side to identify the area of the noise while somebody else drives the car over a bad surface. During my removal of the dash whilst pulling all the items that have to be pulled to get it out, I noticed that I have some small play in the upper steering column bearing. I've noticed this before and it makes a rattling over uneven surfaces, so I'm going to investigate what can be done about that (if anything) without replacement of the whole column.
  10. A very noticeable nose dip on the nearside front on braking. Doing a 'bounce' test by pressing down on the wings offered no damping on that side - it was possible to bounce the front easily - whereas the right hardly bounced at all. Screwing the adjustment screw all the way in on both dampers as a test had the offside hard as a rock, but no change at all to the nearside.
  11. Top marks to Protech. I had an email reply from them at 8am this morning stating to return both front dampers to them. Free of charge repair to the failed one and a check and repair if required to the other. Makes a pleasing change to get a quick and customer focused response. I’ll drop the dampers out next week and send them away.
  12. Update on the Protech dampers. So, just over 2 years to the day after fitting the Protech's all round, the nearside front damper has failed - almost no damping action regardless of the adjustment knob. I've emailed Protech support to see if they will honour their 3 year warranty as claimed on their website, as SJ (where I bought them from) only state a 2 year warranty.. Will report once Protech respond ...
  13. Regarding cleanup of your carb casings, I also found that ultrasonic cleaning didn't bring them up as good as I'd like. So I made a home-made soda blasting attachment from an old tyre pressure gun on my compressor. Couple of quid of soda powder from eBay and they came up pretty ok - not quite as good as aqua-blasting though. But the beauty of using soda blasting is that the soda dissolves in water, so a rinse back in the ultrasonic tank and there's no danger of leaving any cleaning media inside. Oh, and a liberal spray of ACF-50 on the carbs and manifold (in fact any exposed alloy) helps to keep the surface corrosion down.
  14. Since the body is off, you can get an idea if any major 'twist' is present by placing a straight edge (4x2 wood works) on top of the front box section, or spanning the front upper shock absorber chassis mountings, and a laser level (one that emits a straight line beam) on the rearmost crossmember and seeing how they line up.
  15. It's only available in the USA as far as I am aware - you'll need to import it or have a buddy over there to get it to you. Jon.
  16. The metal part is a power transistor screwed onto something. Normally they are mounted to a heatsink to dissipate heat from switching loads or amplification. What is it mounted to and where do the wires to it end up ?
  17. Hi Steve. Yes, they are a push fit into the tubes making up the two engine mounts. Its also possible to fit them 'in situ' with the engine still in the car, but needs a good raise of the rear end on sturdy axle stands plus some dexterity with your fingers and small tools to access the mounts as they have to be removed to fit the bushes in them.
  18. I do not recommend the poly bushes for the engine mounts in the early S1 setup. I replaced my (melted just like yours) replacement 'uprated' poly bushes for good old standard equipment rubber ones. Added a heat shield and all has been well for many years.
  19. Ticket bought and downloaded, including the Display Pass. PM'd you the booking ref in case you need it. Cheers, Jon.
  20. Hi Martyn, @JNW3 alerted me to this today - I’m away and no access to book the tickets until late tomorrow evening - any chance I can grab the last space please (S1 Esprit). Let me know. Ta. Jon.
  21. Thanks - that prompted me to check the markings on O-ring box that I used, and they weren't Viton, they are just marked as "Nitrile" which I believe is safe for brake fluid. Phew .. I'l see if I can edit my previous post to avoid mistakes . Nope, can't edit it.
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