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Everything posted by sgrobler

  1. Thanks for that - did you have any tips or photos of how its done?
  2. I'm having similar problems - oil leak from the exhaust cam housing, progressively getting worse. A couple of months ago I took the cam cover off the housing and tested the tightness of the bolts holding the cam housing onto the cylinder head - used my torque wrench set to the right number. All but three of them were OK - did not move - but three of them just turned freely - evidently stripped. So that's probably the cause of my leak. I will need to install helicoils. Anyone else come across this problem before? Looks to me like the engine has got to come out for that job...
  3. Hi Travis - the NAPA pumps that you mention don't come with the pulley - how does the pulley get fitted? Is is a press fit that I'll need a press or some heat to get teh old one off and re-fit? regards Steve
  4. is this pdf still available? Link does not seem to work.
  5. Well dash lights are working again. Got no idea why! Pulled the binnacle off and re-fitted multiple times. Light always worked fin as long as binnacle was not bolted down. It often happened that as soon as I started to screw in the last bolt, lights would go out. I did accidentally pull out one of the lamps in the speedo - whenever I plugged it in, the lights went out. I found that the positive wire was going to its metal casing - I think the positive should be to the centre-pin. Maybe the live was shorting through to ground via the speedo casing. Anyway the lamp glass was loose too, so I've left that lamp out waiting on a replacement lamp to arrive from UK.
  6. Thanks for those tips, I've not been able to look at it again yet, maybe this weekend. I did look for signs of wires getting crushed, but they are all well clear of the binnacle and the bolts. Looks like it will have to be disconnected again (getting the speedo cable back is the painful bit).
  7. Thanks for the feedback. I haven't sorted it out yet. It's really odd as the binnacle wiring is all self-contained, just two connectors, that carry all the earths etc, so its not as though it relies on the binnacle being earthed through the bolted connection. Before this happened I noticed (for many years) that my rev counter would sometimes not work when I first started the car, but if I bumped the binnacle it would start working. Its probably all related somehow! Steve
  8. I've got a rather annoying problem with the dash lights. They stopped working completely a little while ago so I tool the binnacle off to check them. All lamps are OK and all work fine until I tighten the binnacle down! There are 4 bolts that go through the steel dash cross member to hold the binnacle down. The mating brackets on the binnacle are steel brackets screwed to a plywood frame so there does not seem to be a conducting path between the binnacle and the bolts. But when I put these bolts in, the dash lights flicker on and off. Sometime I can get 3 in with no problem and then as soon as the 4th one goes in the lights go out! As long as I don't tighten the bolts fully I can wiggle the binnacle into a position where the lights stay on. But as soon as I tighten them up the lights go out. Bumping or pulling/pushing the binnacle can make the lights come on momentarily. Buggered if I can work out whats going on! Bizarre!! Anyone got an suggestions for me to try? Thanks Steve
  9. sgrobler


  10. Hi Neil Did you have any photos of the replacement job? Did the set include the boot or just the cabin?
  11. Just hit 42C outside. Time to turn on the A/C

  12. Thanks to everyone for the birthday wishes. They were most appreciated

  13. So the driver's side window has been playing up - I finally got round to looking at it this week. Similar symptoms to the passenger side, but not the same problem, ie not the thermal overload switch. Don't really know what it was - maybe just dirty contacts in the switch - maybe from a bit of arcing? I pulled the switch to bits and cleaned it with contact cleaner and it started working fine. But decided to to do the relay modification anyway - hopefully that should stop the contacts from getting damaged/dirty in future . Here's a photo
  14. Well I finally got my turbo sorted. Bought a new one from SJSportscars. Cheaper, easier and faster than trying to get someone here in Perth (Oz) to repair the old one. Finally found the time to put it all together and drove it for the first time today... Certainly feels like a turbocharged car now! Wow. I've missed a lot of excitement over the last few years! Here's my before and after boost curves... BoostComparison.pdf
  15. Got the turbo off fairly easily and did the freezer trick, but no joy with tapping the bush back into the housing. Tried to disassemble the waste gate valve/spindle arrangement, but its not going to happen without cutting the spindle. Its just too long to get out any other way. It looks to me like these things are assembled by shrink fitting of the parts, something I just don't have the equipment to do. So I am shopping for an exchange or replacement unit...
  16. Thanks Roger, I am going to pack it inside and out with some dry ice and give it some time to soak through to the bush. Do you know what the bush is made of? (I can't see it at all...) If its bronze or brass it should shrink almost twice as much as the cast iron housing.
  17. here's the picture of my waste-gate, supposedly in the closed position!! And here are some traces from my logger: First one shows a couple of accelerations up to 100kmh. The boost spikes over the rated 65kPa only when you take your foot off the throttle - that's because I've got the sensor on the turbo-side of the carburettor, so it sees the boost building up against the closed butterflies, but before that it barely gets ot 60kPa even at 6000rpm. The second one shows boost versus rpm. Only starts to boost (and only weakly) above 4000rpm. Its going to be interesting to see how this changes when I get the waste gate fixed!!
  18. Hey Roger Thanks for posting this! I've got the exact same problem!! I've been suspicious of low boost in my Esprit ever since I bought it, but not having anything to compare to, I was never sure. I have a home-made logger which I've been using to measure boost pressure/rpm etc and always found that I never got anywhere near full boost until 6000rpm. I'll attach a boost-rpm curve to show what I mean. This weekend I decided to add an oil pressure sensor to my logger and one thing lead to another, as it always does with a Lotus. To get to one thing you have to take off 3 other things. And I am now looking inside my turbo and seeing exactly what you saw - the waste gate spindle/bush has slipped sideways and so the waste gate is permanently open! At least the turbine blades are all in one piece... So all this time I've been driving a naturally aspirated Esprit How is your repair holding out? Any sign of the bush slipping again?
  19. I had to top up my g/box with about 500ml today, I think I am losing it through the driveshaft seals. I bought SJ Sportscars last 3l of TAF-X about a year ago. I see they now carry MOBIL 1 SHC 75W90, so presumably it is a suitable replacement. This company claims they are equivalent:
  20. No, you will have to pull the motor apart to bypass the thermal switch!
  21. Hi Alan I am sure you could get these switches in UK, but if you can;t locate one, I would be happy to post to you. Not sure it will solve your problem though.... The tracks on my windows are completely free of grease - they just have the factory rubber lining. I didn't try and grease them at all. Seems like they are not intended to be lubricated. Regards Steve
  22. I've read all the posts on the Esprit window motors and tried most of the usual tricks (strip + clean the motors, fit relays, adjust the tracks) but my motors are still playing up. Think I finally found the problem..... First the symptoms - intermittent behaviour - sometimes they work fine. Sometimes they move a few inches then stop and don't work for a while, then they work again a few minutes later. Other times they just wont work at all. Sometimes if you give a bit of assistance by pushing the winodw up or down, they start to work. Reason The reason, I believe, is the thermal protection switch that is built into the Delco motor. I suspect the contacts probably got damaged or overheated and are no longer making good contact. I also suspect that it was operating at a much lower current than it should. These things have a bimetallic strip that heats up when you pass a current through them, and then they go open circuit until they cool down. So my windows would move a few inches, then not work for a few minutes, then work for a few inches - each time the switch would close for a fraction of a second, heat up and go open circuit, then cool down and close again. Solution I bypassed the original switch with a wire link and put in a new switch outside the motor, in line with one of the two wires. The one I used is a 4A unit (~$7), and works fine so far. The original switch is small metallic cannister connected to one of the motor brushes. Hope this might be of interest to others with temperamental window motors...
  23. Hi Tom Sorry it took me so long to reply - thanks for looking at my photos, and for your kind words. Unfortunately my plating knowledge is limited to following the instructions in my kit! I bought the kit from Jane Kits It came with all the chemicals, all I had to do was add water and follow the instructions! Really easy. The gentleman at Jane Kits is very helpful and might be able to help you out though, if you email him with any questions you have. If you like I can copy the manual that came with my kit to send to you. It does not explain what the chemicals are - just talks about some of the practicalities and the do's and don'ts. Regards Steve
  24. Hi Michael - thanks - sounds good. Did you manage to finish fixing up your door/window? Steve
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