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  • Name
    david bradley
  • Car
    esprit turbo 1983

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  1. Thanks Steve, I think you are right. There's a chance the connector has pulled from under the dash in the bump.............. Looks like a trip to the footwells tomorrow, with a torch. Once again thanks for all your help, I now know what I need to buy. You've really helped me out Thanks
  2. Steve, that's fantastic - thanks a lot. Am I right in understanding you in that the termal switch is the one with three pairs of connectors, wires into each on one side black with green stripe, the other wires are yellow with brown stripe. The third connector which I need to explain better (white square, with 4 wires, which are brown, black, black/orange & yellow/brown. I'm guessing fan failure relay? - though why that would need such a thick brown wire I'm not sure. Once again thanks - it's much appreciated Regards
  3. Hi Rather than asking everyone to photo their cars, I thought I'd photo mine and ask if anyone could help identify what the components are. I had hoped to show them here but cant get them to upload. Maybe they are too big Will gladly eMail to anyone who thinks they can help. They are a photo of what looks like a relay holder (thick brown, black/orange, yellow/green & black) A square plug that would fit into the above, but that contains no relay. Same wires, not sure they line up, dont look to, brown looks to connect with black. A white plastic connector with 4 pairs round terminals, only 3 pairs in use, no other side to the connector This white connector may be a red herring - who knows - part of an alarm that's been removed? I suspect a relay or two is missing I have no power to either brown wire, even with ignition on Incidentally my fan motor wires are black with a green stripe, which agrees with no wiring diagram I have..... Thanks a lot [email protected]
  4. Thanks everyone The only manual I have is for an S2 I used to own. I have an electrical connector plug in the alloy radiator feed pipe = which is under the car, roughly beneath the servo. I actually thought that was the Otter switch. It's positioning is like the wiring diag for the early cars, but mine has the fan failure warning light Once again thanks our eMail is [email protected] We are in West Yorkshire, near Bradford
  5. Hi I'm finishing off a 15 year re-build of a front ended 83 Esprit Turbo Much of the wiring was originally screwed up into a ball, and I dont know what's missing All the fans are in, but I'm not clear what the relays should look like. I have half a white connector block, with round terminals in the luggage compartment. This wiring heads under the car. I have no other side of this connector I also have awhat looks like relay holder, and a square coupling with wiring attached that looks as though it would plug in - but I havent as I'm not wanting to fuse anything. Would really appreciate a photo &/or description of what these items should look like, and what they do. I'm especially unclear about the white connector plug as I have nothing to plug into it Thanks a lot
  6. This radiator has two, in opposing corners so, I guess, you could mount it either way up & still be able to bleed it. The bolt that came was a small brass job about half in long. Maybe I'm supposed to use that at the bottom, and one of the others at the top.? I'll borrow one from my Excel Thanks for getting me thinking. Still rather have two bolts if anyone knew the thread size Thanks
  7. I bought a recon radiator from PNM back in march, as part of a long term restoration. I've now noticed that one of the two radiator drain plugs is missing. PNM have yet to get back to me. I'm not bothered about spending a few pounds, but I dont know where to get one from, or what thread to ask for. It's not M10 1.0 or 3/8 UNF - but it's close to both Does anyone know the thread ? Thanks
  8. I have recently replaced the gasket on my Aux Housing, and along the way lost the timing setting. I wasn't downhearted (at first), as I thought all I had to do was pop the Distributor out while the engine was at TDC on no.1 , see where the rotor arm was pointing, and put the plug leads on the cap to match 1,3,4,2 (I cant seem to do it with the distributor in place, as I can never unclip the dist cap as the clip is virtually touching the cylinder block & my fingers are a good deal thicker (never mind not being 18 inches long & not quad jointed) No probs..............however, when i put the distributor back without the cap, I found that I could spin the distributor shaft as though it wasn't connected to the aux shaft. The rotor arm is solid on the shaft, and the probs not there. I must add that the distributor clamp is flat up to the housing, and the clamp is fixed to the distributor. It's like the shaft has sheared, but it cant have as I've not touched it - the shaft looks to be solid from what I can tell from the manual. It doesnt split at the oil pump does it? The pulley sprocket lines up with the other sprockets, so I dont think the shaft has moved. Any ideas? I am downhearted now Cheers
  9. Hi If it helps, I now have my belt on, and I have a knack/tip. I found that if I only fitted the tensioner assembly by hand through the central stud, and for the moment left the bolt out, I coul dthen pivot the tensioner well out of the way. If you make sure the belt isn,'t snagging on the tensioner body/pulley and is actually on the pulley face, the belt then slipped onto the timing sprocket very easily. I then expected to struggle to get the bolt in but, as everything is by then sitting true, it was no problem at all. Hope that helps some other poor so & so Off to post my next topic.................still having problems!Cheers
  10. Does anyone have a knack for getting the belt over all the pulleys at once? The tensioner is fully off & locked in place with a pin. I can get the belt over the crank & cam pulleys, but it's all but impossible to get over & on the distributor pulley. Last time I did it by lossening the auxilliary housing so it could tip, fitted the belt & put it back. In truth the belt when on is perfectly slack & tightens up nicely when tensioned, but it just wont pass over the pulley when all you've got is a minute gap to thread your fingers through & work in. My "method" of loosening the aux housing works, but there's a risk of damaging the gasket, which is why I'm at it again (oil leak). Is there a DIY method of tensioning the belt without a Burroughs Gauge? All advice appreciated Thanks
  11. Hi Would anyone know the diameter of the idle jet on a standard 1983 S3 Turbo? Mine have become Kacked up after standing a number of years, and the car wouldn't run without the choke on. I've poked some v.small wire through & the car now runs & will rev, but still has a misfire - like one's still blocked. I want to run a drill bit through by hand, but obviously dont want to take any metal away. Just need to know what diameter of drill to use. Thanks
  12. Hi Does anyone know of anyone who sells overhaul kits for the Turbo pressure regulators? I'd also like to know how to test if it's working. I've fitted a pressure gauge, but cant be sure if the excess pressure is passing back to the tank, or causing the needle valves to stay open (which is my problem). With the regulator off the car, and the adjuster nut removed, if I blow incredibly hard (as if from the pump), I get the faintest possible flow back to the tank when I block the outlets to the carbs. Not scientific I accept, but what should I expect, so I know whether there seems to be a problem or not. The pipe back to the tank blows through very easily. Thanks
  13. I'd like to do an ignition check-over. I have a car that hasn't run for years, that wont start. Checking the plugs there doesn't seem to be a spark- which might not help! The electronic ignition thingy is however just a lump I can only look at (it' a Lucas) as I dont know where to start. Both terminals on the coil are showing 12V - beyond that I dont know where to start. The car's a 1983 Turbo There's leads in from the loom to a fibreglass box, in which there's the coil and an ignition amplifier. Over by the battery there's another "thing" on the wheel arch No idea what these things do Sorry to be so clueless, I'd know where to start with a set of points Thanks
  14. Thank you everyone. Eurocarb, who have been most helpfull also think it's a regulator problem. This makes sense, as what's the chances of both carbs have an unusual problem at the same time. I'll give it a go Once again thanks
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