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OwenGT3 last won the day on December 31 2015

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About OwenGT3

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    Lotus Esprit GT3, R56 Mini Cooper S

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  1. I enjoyed the show Paddy did called 'Stars In Their Cars', It was all about the cars and the relationship with the car. I don't know much about the cricketer Andrew 'Freddie' Flintoff other than the TV adverts I've seen him in. I'm willing to give them a chance, can't be worse than Evans. I just hope they drop the tired old format dating from the Clarkson, May and Hammond days. I stopped watching it ages ago, didn't like the the presenters and the format. Hopefully they will change it for the better. It's like Wheeler Dealer, I love watching the old ones of that on TV. I don't mind Mike and liked watching Ed fix the cars up. They ruined it when it went to America to capture the audience over there. Then Ed left and I've never seen a Mike and Ant show, so can't comment on how it ended up.
  2. I've taken my drop glass out and the best way to do them is to remove the door glass frame as well. The first door I came to refit I didn't fit the drop glass in and it was a bugger to get back in. Lesson learned so the final door I put the glass in the door frame and refitted. The motor runner balls are easy to fit back in the runner. I had them apart to do my glass outer seal strips and repaint the metal trim. Drop glass removal I've fitted runners on the bottom of new glass before when I used to work in accident repair. Most consist of a runner with a rubber insert to go next to the glass, the runner is an interference fit. You usually line it all up and hit it with a mallet, going along the runner knocking it on evenly until its home and the glass has bottomed out. It seems daunting hitting the runner on the glass, but the glass is really tough, but best to have it on a good solid surface so the energy isn't lost from the mallet as you knock it on. Just remember to measure the runner distance from an edge on the old glass before removal.
  3. This is video I shot at the Team Lotus 50th Celebrations. Hopefully the weather will be better than this Lotus Festival back in 2004. Although the CTL drivers did put on a good show even with the bad weather.
  4. This is some of my vac forming at a company I used to work for. I made the moulds and was having issues with webbing. My machine is not this one, but was a made machine, but could produce as good as result as this professional machine, albeit for a lot less than the £12000 this one cost! Once I've got it sorted, people will know as I will be requesting parts to make the moulds.
  5. I am hoping to produce as many obsolete vac-formed Lotus parts in the future. I have a machine, but it's in bits, so not operational at the moment. It's going to get setup in my new carport, which I am still constructing, but nearly there. Also the process will require several moulds to form the final buck to produce the original part. This will require an original part to take the mould from, so I will need to 'borrow' items to make my moulds, but the part would not get damaged in this process. It will take some cash outlay and will take time, but once I have my bucks I will be able to make as many as I want of the part. Items I'm considering first will be Esprit light surrounds, G car quarter glass surround trim, G car rear light surrounds, SD1 lights. Stuff that's been affected by weather and sun damage, lost it's colour.
  6. Thanks, like your brake project, it takes time to get a final solution to the problem. Given it some thought today and decided not to chop the bonnet about. I'm going to design my own head to replace the Aygo wiper arm version. The one I will design will need to just be flat, unlike the Aygo that rises to make it hit the bonnet. I'm going to have it machined in alloy, the pivot pin will be replaced with a pivot type bolt to reassemble it. I think with this part made and assembled on the wiper arm, it will work fine.
  7. Hi Again, some more news regarding my wiper arm situation. My Toyota Aygo wiper arm arrived today, so had a go at fitting it, also the other two sizes of ball joints I thought I might need for the control arm, but didn't in the end. The results are good news and bad news, but not given up yet. The wiper arm works with minimal alteration, all I had to do was file a small amount off the mount taper shoulder, about an 1-2mm, that's all it needed to fit and work. The control arm didn't require a ball joint, just a M8 bolt with a shank on it. I cut the head off, then mounted it to the base plate, as the control arm just mounts on a small shaft. I think on the Toyota car it might have a compression ring in a groove to grip the arm, but mine didn't, but it didn't jump off. This is a minor detail, as a post could be machined to suit. The big, and I mean big problem is it hits the bonnet on the full stroke again, like the Yaris arm does. I had the bonnet laying on he latches closed, so it missed the arm, but if it was shut it would have hit it quit a lot. There are a few options that could be done to correct this, but not easy for the novice Esprit owner, not used to doing modifying repairs. The arm could be shaved down to miss the bonnet, but I think this will weaken the arm. Wiper arms are under a lot of stress when operating, so if material is removed from the main body, it could break if the arm is operated on a dryish screen. The mounting head could be replaced with another wiper arm head. The early Aygo and C1 arms which I and several others have used, the mount head misses the bonnet. This could be made to fit the new Aygo arm. This option and the one I'm considering, but the biggest and most work, is to modify the bonnet. The two raised bumps on the bonnet, I'm considering moving them so they can accommodate the new wiper arm. I will move both so they still match, I can do this as I am getting my car painted, so modifying the fibreglass ain't a big deal. The bumps need to move about 25 mm aross so the arm on full sweep will pass through the raised bumps. It's this or just remove the material and have a cut out like the washer jets. I think modifying a perfectly good arm that works very well will be more work and not look as good when done. The bumps moved over 25mm, no one is going to notice this mod. I've shot a video of the wiper arm in action. It doesn't judder like my old C1 wiper arm, also it's fitted with a 26" blade.[/img
  8. To be fair, I think when I first looked at the Yaris wiper arm, the Aygo was not this new style arm, it was like the Citroen C1. Early Aygo's were basically the same car, it's only these new generation ones with the new arm design, that are different, so haven't really looked before. The Yaris arm I think will work, it's just this one looks so much better for our needs. Plus being under £70 quid for a complete arm, was expecting over £100 when I asked, we won't need to buy secondhand. I've only got a secondhand one to test, if it works I might buy a brand new one. If it all works (I've just ordered some threaded ball joints in a couple of sizes for the control arm mount), I will look at getting a batch of base plates laser cut.
  9. I don't know if this applies to all early wiper arms, but I have heard that they break on the wiper blade pin, it's a weak point. I think you can still get replacement pins to hold the blade, but not replacement wiper arms, so some people have sourced other wiper arms as it's a recurring problem. This is not a problem with the wiper motor, just the wiper arm. I'm replacing mine because the original on the car when I got it, was the original arm, but with a modified head to hold the blade, for the reason I've just mentioned. This didn't last ages, I repaired it a couple of times, but I then sourced another alternative wiper arm. I got the Citeron C1 wiper arm, purchased two from a scrapyard, but they need modifying to shorten them and a piece removed from the taper mount. Also the control arm can need modifying to work correctly. Also whatever arm is fitted, the base plate needs a new one with the control arm in located in a different location. I purchased a Toyota Yaris to see if this would fit, but I'm perhaps changing my mind again having seen another alternative wiper arm. It's another Toyota model, the wiper arm from the current Aygo, not Yaris. I visited the local Toyota dealer today to get a cap for my Yaris arm, then spotted this arm on the Aygo's. I've measured it up against the Yaris blade I have and it's the same length, but fitted with a 26" wiper blade. A 26" blade will fit on the screen of the Esprit as I used this size with the C1 wiper arm. I've been able to source a second hand Aygo wiper arm for twenty quid from eBay to test it will work, but if I wanted a new one they are only £66.23 (Part No. 85211-0H020) brand new, so not an expensive item. I will still need to source the ball for the control arm, but hopefully this will not be a problem. This wiper arm doesn't look as big around the mount of the arm, so hopefully will not hit the bonnet like my Yaris version is currently doing. Here's a video of the Yaris arm up against the Aygo.
  10. I will try what you said about the striker pins and spacing them off a little first, before removing material from the bonnet. Did you buy your wiper arm from new? Mine was secondhand costing just £30 from eBay.
  11. I can draw up a spacer in CAD to get made, washers are just for testing at the moment. It might even need a 3D printed cover if the Yaris one doesn't fit as the threads are too long. If it all works I would like to create a kit to do the full conversion, but need to just test for now. Another angle showing contact with the bonnet. I'm sure this will be minimal material removed from bonnet to clear wiper arm. I'm talking a small amount of filing off the fibreglass in a shallow curve.
  12. I will see if I can get a nut cover tomorrow from the Toyota dealer. Also see if I can get a ball threaded joint locally.
  13. Hi, I've been able to try on the Toyota Yaris wiper arm on my Esprit. First thoughts are this could be an alternative wiper arm replacement. It fits on well onto the wiper motor splines, just requiring some additional washers to take up the distance to the thread. I've done no modifications to the arm and it fits on well on the taper, with about 1.6mm clearance from the base on the splines. I had the motor running with the arm attached and it moved well, once I had sorted the washer spacers to allow the spline nut to clamp the arm. I didn't have the control arm attached to anything, but the action of the arm looked good. The Yaris has a 24" wiper arm, so the same size as an Esprit. There seems to be plenty of clearance so the arm misses the screen, also enough so the control arm runs under the main wiper arm when at full sweep. I parked it a few times on full travel and the control arm looked like it will change the angle of the blade correctly. I won't know until I've attached the control arm, for this I need to purchase a ball thread. I've measured the cup on the Yaris arm, it's either a 10mm or 11mm ball required. I've found a ball joint with thread that is 10mm, so will get one to try. The problem with the setup seems to be when the arm is at full sweep. The bonnet when shut is hitting the arm, albeit just a small amount. As its not much and my car is going for a full respray, I'm going to remove some of the material from the edge of the bonnet, as I don't think it's a lot required to clear the arm. If this is the case, I think this will work with just a new base plate with repositioned control arm and threaded ball to complete the conversion. As the edge of the bonnet is painted black, removing some material and retouching this shouldn't be a major job, and won't be noticed that much. I'm willing to do this to have a wiper arm off the shelf that fits with no mods to the arm. My screen has a plastic trip at the bottom, this is because the screen got damaged by the wiper arm when I had a new screen fitted, the screen sat in a different position and the wiper arm gouged into the screen. Luckily I was able to repair it, but need to add a trim to hide the repair. Although this does help with the bottom edge going milky over time. Wiper motor splines and nut thread Wiper arm on with splines exposed Washers added to take up spines so nut can clamp wiper arm on splines Top view of arm in park position. Note the washer jet on the Yaris arm, could possibly be used if so wished Wiper arm in park position and 24" wiper blade Again parked wiper arm with 24" blade Wiper motor stopped at full travel, still seems clearance and not a problem to located the control arm. Blade also clears top of screen View of control arm sitting under main blade. This will sit higher once located on the ball threaded joint. Another view of the control arm under main wiper arm. you can see it touching bonnet Contact with bonnet, I don't think a lot will need removing from this edge Bonnet contact again. I will be getting a cap also to see how this fits over the threads. It might sit higher than normal Template new wooden base plate for positioning ball threaded joint.
  14. I'm on board as well with this conversion, as soon as you guys have completed yours and happy with the outcome, I'll be looking to purchase mine. Having seen Ian's setup at Duxford I am very impressed with the setup.
  15. Hi, great day today, really enjoyed it. Although not in my Esprit displaying, it was nice to drive down with Trevor Yallop (Chipp), who let me drive his Elise to the event, so was fun. Great to talk with Ian all things technical regarding his brake conversion. It was nice chatting with the people I talked to and some lovely cars on display. Well done Martyn for a well organised display. Her's a link to my photos. TLF Duxford day
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