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Everything posted by OwenGT3

  1. I fitted Falken FK453 Tyres on mine, all round. Not too bad a price from what I can remember, about £100 - 120 a corner.
  2. Mine is also like Ian's new pipe, no loop ever since I've owned the car. I think at some point the pipe on my car got damaged and the original hasn't been available for some time to replace it, so your only option now is to make one up. Personally if the engine is getting tugged away from the baulk-head to allow the loop to straighten out, I wouldn't want to be in the car at that point!
  3. I've moved operations back to the front of the car and have now started to strip the front suspension (08.11.19). I started on the N/S suspension and generally it came apart reasonably easily. Most large bolts needed breaking with a strong-bar, but then removed with a ratchet spanner OK. The only problematic bolts were the suspension arms, upper and lower arms. The front lower arm bolt has seized in the bush, so the head of the bolt may need to be cut off to drive the bolt out, or using an angle grinder cut down the sides of the arm in the housing to remove the bolt. The shock-absor
  4. Today's (30.10.19) task was to remove the crankshaft rear seal housing, allowing me to remove the crankshaft engine main bearing housing. The bolts wouldn't come out using the hex heads, so some other method was required. I decided to weld some nuts to the head of the bolts, which would give me better purchase on the bolt with a bigger spanner, plus the heat from the welding would help free the bolts. I have to say this method worked a treat and all the bolts were easily removed, I just had to protect the engine from weld sparks so as to not damage any surfaces. With the seal housi
  5. Today (21.10.19) I finally removed the last rear shock, spring and upper suspension link. The top nut on the shock had to be cut partly to get it to move. This was done with a cutting disc and Dremel, removing a face on the nut. With the part removed and some WD40 the nut started to move with a spanner and was removed. The lower nut came undone without any need for cutting. With the shock and spring out of the way, the upper suspension link was finally removed. I then moved on to removing the passenger side fuel tank. Similar process to the drivers side, but with less items to remove from
  6. I finally removed all the valves from the head today (17.10.19). This wasn't too bad a job as I had a valve removing tool and they came apart really easily. All the guides are worn, with one inlet valve being very sloppy on number one, but the valves don't look too bad a condition generally. Some ports you can see blow by on the inlet valves, which obviously would be contributing to low compression. Seats on the exhaust valves were very thin and looked like they were not creating a good seal. I think once all the faces have been machined, new guides and the valves lapped in, the head wil
  7. It is a good idea, I have heard others have considered this as an option. I don't know whether to buy the actual release if you can still get it, but if not a good set of strong magnets will do. Can't be worse than Lotus sikaflex method, I know it's good stuff for bonding, but not what I would expect on a £50k car.
  8. The job I did today was quite a small one, but needed to be done. As the fuel flap on a GT3 on the drivers side is blank, Lotus glue them shut with bonding agent. The flap needed removing for when the car gets painted, so I had to get a scalpel behind the fuel filler flap and cut the glue. Luckily this was not as bad as I thought it would be and the flap opened. When this goes back together I am going to fix this with powerful magnets, as I might put a trickle charger socket in this blank fuel filler.
  9. Today (12.10.1) was spent stripping the engine some more. I removed the turbo from the exhaust manifold, this required the nuts being removed with a grinder, but I did manage to save the studs. I also stripped the inlet manifold down to it's component parts. As well as the engine parts, I did remove the drivers side fuel tank. I can see now why this job is so bad with the engine in, as even with easy access the tank was still tight getting it out. Once the top board, seat belt, cross-over fuel pipe and earth strap was removed, the man issue was the seat belt mount. The tank needed to be f
  10. I'm thinking of some light shot blasting to remove rust, then pressure test them. A good coat of red oxide paint and then a nice enamel top coat paint, two coats. Foam replaced with proper non-porous type.
  11. This is my understanding, that they shouldn't be honed @andydclements. There is the odd mark, but I would expect some on an engine that's done 97k. If there were no honing marks then possibly they would need replacing, but from first look I think they still have a good amount of life in them. I am going to measure them to see how much they have worn, but this engine I have never seen it burn/smoke or use excessive oil consumption. Also with a restoration like this, where do you stop? I'm already way over budget so if something can be saved and used a bit longer, then I will keep it. It's
  12. Looking at the condition of the liners, they are very good. The whole bottom end of the engine is very good, so I will just replace shell and rings. All of the problems are in the head with the valves.
  13. I've continued with stripping the pistons out of the engine. All the bores and pistons are of the same condition as piston one, so really pleased the engine is good. The next stage is to remove the crank from the engine block, so the lower section of the engine needs removing. This shouldn't be too bad a job, but the rear crankshaft oil seal housing bolts are corroded in. I've applied loads of penetrating fluid, but they are not moving. Also being hex head bolts, it doesn't take long for them to ring round and then you are stuck. I am thinking of welding a bolt to the hex head dome
  14. Very good, I've just done a quick test, but this seems to show minimal movement. I will conduct a full measured test before removing, I just need to check the manual for specifications and tolerance.
  15. Today (05.10.19) I removed the sump from the engine, as I wanted to remove one of the pistons to check the bores of the engine. The sump came off relativity easily, but all bolts are showing some corrosion between the two types of materials. With the sump finally off, I removed piston one from the cylinder. Luckily Lotus dowel the big end caps, so you don't need to mark them. With the piston out and a wipe of the bore, I was able to see they are very good for the age of the engine. The bores are not heavily worn and you can still see the original score marks. The crank was also very
  16. @Stuart Monument You could try asking the Jim Clark Museum if they are interested in buying it. They know it exists as I had to seek their permission to use the helmet design. I would be quite proud to have that on display in his museum. If they bought it, I could touch up any repairs needed so it was mint for display.
  17. @Buddsy Scott Budds made some of the component parts for me, with CTL also contributing loads in help, parts and services. The £10k original price was in two parts, the owners sponsored the dragon, paying £4k to be part of the whole interactive art event. They then paid £6k bidding on the dragon at auction, they bought their own sponsored dragon back. Some more photos of the dragon IndyGoGo500 @Stuart Monument Have you tried Caister Castle museum, he might consider buying it, beings it is quite unique, I have the guys number if so. Would be nice to keep it in the local area and
  18. Day 20 (26.09.19) of my restoration and I finally took the head off the engine. To my surprise the head, pistons and bores are all looking remarkably good for 97,000 miles. The pistons are still a nice fit in the liners, which have a minimal wear step at the top, although bores will be checked to see if in tolerance. The piston tops are clean, just covered in a layer of oil residue. I did do a leak test on all the valves and compression chambers, as I was expecting number two cylinder to be possibly damaged with some wear, as this was down on compression so much when I tested it. Actually
  19. I haven't worked on the Esprit for a few day, but decided to get back on it, so today (14.09.19) I stripped the rear hubs down. Again as they haven't been to bits in possibly 22 years, bolts were seized, so first thing all fixings required a good squirt of releasing fluid. I started to release the bearing hex head bolts, but these were seized solid, so decided to cut them off as it was easier. The lower link arm pin was also solid in the hub, so having heard the stories of cracked hubs, I decided to cut these off as well. This required cutting the pins down between the link arm and the hu
  20. Well today (17.09.19) the engine finally came out. I don't know when the last time it was out, but never in my 12 years of ownership. It wasn't too bad a job to do, some fiddly pipes to disconnect at the front of the engine, awkward in true Lotus fashion, but once they were off, the lifting was relativity easy. I'd removed the inlet manifold to make fixing the lifting strap easier to go around the engine, which was actually nylon rope as that's all I had to hand. Putting it in I will use something better. The car was at the lowest point on the jack system, but once the bolts had clea
  21. Today I dismantled the rear suspension. Most of the bolts came undone with relative ease, just a quirt of WD40 and the nuts could be removed. There were a few nuts that needed cutting off to remove the part, shock absorbers being one of them. The lower link arm was taken off with the hub, so as to remove the lower pins on the bench. The pins will be cut off so not to crack and damage the hub. Brakes were OK to remove, but new handbrake cables will need to be fitted. I also got the screw holding the clamp bracket out for the two injectors in the plenum manifold. A better screw will be
  22. The remaining items at the front of the car were removed. This includes the charge cooler radiator and the main water cooling radiator, along with the cowling. Some bolts had to be cut off, with a few coming undone by spanner. The core on both radiators are beyond repair, so will need to have new ones.
  23. Today (24.08.19) was spent stripping a lot more parts from the engine and engine bay. The engine is almost ready to remove, with just a few components attached. Both sides of the engine bay were also stripped, exposing the petrol tanks. Most components that sit on top of the tanks were removed. The exhaust system and the rear hanging frame was also removed. The loom was removed from the side panels and is now tucked up to one side. Again lots of reference photos were taken for rebuild time.
  24. A little work on the engine today, started to strip the engine down ready to remove. Most of the work was removing the loom from engine, but to get the loom completely away from the engine, some engine parts needed to be removed. I've taken loads of photos of the position of the loom and all the connectors, so will know where they go when refitting it all back together. I've done worse in my time restoring cars.
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