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OwenGT3

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Everything posted by OwenGT3

  1. A little work on the engine today, started to strip the engine down ready to remove. Most of the work was removing the loom from engine, but to get the loom completely away from the engine, some engine parts needed to be removed. I've taken loads of photos of the position of the loom and all the connectors, so will know where they go when refitting it all back together. I've done worse in my time restoring cars.
  2. I don't need them now as I have the late V8 stainless trim centre exhaust outlet. The old ones were rusty as hell, had to be cut off.
  3. Not much work on the Esprit today (17.08.19), just removing some small parts. Removed some small spats that sit on all the corners of the bumpers. Also removed t h e tailgate locking plates, exhaust splash shield and rear boot breather vent frame.
  4. Today I finally got the rear boot spoiler lip removed, Lotus did stick it on with a lot of silicone. Also, I finally got the rear bumper removed, which required the fixing bracket inside the boot to be ground away with my angle grinder. The nuts were heavily rusted and were never going to come undone, also access was limited with the exhaust which is still on the car. With every large panel other than doors off the car now, I will go back to the front and start removing the radiator, oil coolers, etc. once these items are off I will go back to the engine area again and start to remove that and the gearbox, followed by fuel tanks and then finally all the suspension. I think the rear lower bumper bracket has rusted so much due to some water leaking into the boot over the years. I know when I first purchased the car, water was leaking through one of the bolt holes on the rear spoiler, all the boot carpets were damp.
  5. Well finally the bumper came off today, never again do I want to do that job! I've fitted lots of bumper trims in my time, but that has to be one of the worse to remove, so not looking forward to refitting. Some of the last bolts pulled through their holes, so a couple will need repairing on the body, one on the bumper. Most bolts were easy to get to, it's just that they were all rusted making the job difficult. The ones on the corner where you can't get to are the worst, they are bad. I might do some mods to those fittings to make life easier. With the bumper off now, I can start to look at the radiators on the front. With no air con I haven't got to worry about removing that and getting the gas removed. I will work on the back bumpers first before removing the radiators.
  6. Well finally the bumper came off today, never again do I want to do that job! I've fitted lots of bumper trims in my time, but that has to be one of the worse to remove, so not looking forward to refitting. Some of the last bolts pulled through their holes, so a couple will need repairing on the body, one on the bumper. Most bolts were easy to get to, it's just that they were all rusted making the job difficult. The ones on the corner where you can't get to are the worst, they are bad. I might do some mods to those fittings to make life easier.
  7. Had another go at getting the stubborn nut off the bracket holding the side of the front bumper on. I used my action camera to film under the wing, while viewing the live stream on my phone. This did help a lot in see if I was cutting in the correct area. I finally got the nut off by using a small cutting disc in my Dremel cable extension. It took about an hour or so to remove just the one nut, but it finally came off. Today I spent some time at the rear of the car removing some parts. I removed the tailgate, boot floor and petrol filler flap. Also all the vacuum pump , boot interior lights and screws in the gutter drain holes were removed. The trim tops of the quarter windows and petrol tank covers were also removed. The next part will be to remove the rear bumper, lights and exhaust trim panel.
  8. A little more work today. All the Abs has gone other than wiring, never to be seen again on the car. Ian Lord's replacement servo system is being fitted. Last light pod has also been removed today. Notice the enlarged drain hole, something I did years ago to stop the water collecting in the pod housings. I was under the car Saturday at the front removing the lower front spoiler lip and under body shields. Most bolts are rusted to hell, so will need to invest in some extractor sockets, as some nuts are just round now. Getting the nuts off that are holding the front top edge of the bumper on is proving to be fun. I've managed to get one nut off so far, the others are mostly round. I think this is will be one of the hardest jobs on the whole car, at least the back bumper is easier to get to all the nuts. I've invested in more zip lock bags as well to store and label up all the parts as they come off. Also I'm breaking those bags down into sectional bags, so will be so much easier when rebuilding again know what part of the car they are from. Once a few of the under-body panels are off, I think things should start to be easier to work on. you just have to keep plugging away.
  9. It's taken a year to build the workshop to do the work in, but so it begins the start of my Esprit GT3 restoration. In true Lotus fashion, the second bolt undone sheared off, but it hasn't moved for 22 years, so that's to be expected. WD40 is a must. With the bonnet off, everything is suddenly a lot easier to get to. Stripping the car will be slow, as all nuts, bolts and fixings needed packaging up and labelling. Most of these items won't see the car again for another year or two. Looking at most things as I take them off, it is perhaps the right time to do this restoration, giving the car a new lease of life. The plan is to try and complete the work within two years, but depends on what I find and how high the budget climbs! ABS is going and I've already purchased Ian Lord's conversion kit. I will post regularly now to show progress of the project.
  10. Watched this weeks again and did find parts quite funny. as said it seems unscripted which works well. I don't mind Paddy, seems grounded and fame hasn't gone to his head. I did like when he stops at the house to charge his car, the guy saying can we have an autograph, then shows him his daughter's caravan. Guest piece they could do without, not bothered how fast they can go around the TG track. The Tesla article wasn't too bad, but again the programme seems to focus a lot on cars that the average person wouldn't buy, £40k+ cars. I think there is room for a few articles on cars that average Joe would buy, also would be nice to see them cover classic cars as well. Will still keep watching.
  11. I haven't watched the recent TG, preferring GT, so I thought I would give the new presenters a chance and watch again. First episode wasn't that bad, presenters work well together and as it's been said, with the two new boys ripping into Chris Harris and generally gelling well with each other. The let down part for me was the tired old format of messing around and then nostalgic bit on a road trip. It would be nice if they came up with something different to what JC, May and Hammond did on TG and are still doing in GT. Would be nice to see more factual stuff, dare I say very old TG style. Even the McLaren and Ferrari being thrash on the circuit was tired, we know they are fast and handle well, it's what they were designed for, but let's see them being used as a daily, in town, shopping, out of it's comfort zone, stuff regular people do! I will continue to watch to see how it progresses. Shopping with a McLaren at Tescos! Shopping with an Esprit! I liked this show Paddy presented.
  12. I enjoyed the show Paddy did called 'Stars In Their Cars', It was all about the cars and the relationship with the car. I don't know much about the cricketer Andrew 'Freddie' Flintoff other than the TV adverts I've seen him in. I'm willing to give them a chance, can't be worse than Evans. I just hope they drop the tired old format dating from the Clarkson, May and Hammond days. I stopped watching it ages ago, didn't like the the presenters and the format. Hopefully they will change it for the better. It's like Wheeler Dealer, I love watching the old ones of that on TV. I don't mind Mike and liked watching Ed fix the cars up. They ruined it when it went to America to capture the audience over there. Then Ed left and I've never seen a Mike and Ant show, so can't comment on how it ended up.
  13. I've taken my drop glass out and the best way to do them is to remove the door glass frame as well. The first door I came to refit I didn't fit the drop glass in and it was a bugger to get back in. Lesson learned so the final door I put the glass in the door frame and refitted. The motor runner balls are easy to fit back in the runner. I had them apart to do my glass outer seal strips and repaint the metal trim. Drop glass removal I've fitted runners on the bottom of new glass before when I used to work in accident repair. Most consist of a runner with a rubber insert to go next to the glass, the runner is an interference fit. You usually line it all up and hit it with a mallet, going along the runner knocking it on evenly until its home and the glass has bottomed out. It seems daunting hitting the runner on the glass, but the glass is really tough, but best to have it on a good solid surface so the energy isn't lost from the mallet as you knock it on. Just remember to measure the runner distance from an edge on the old glass before removal.
  14. This is video I shot at the Team Lotus 50th Celebrations. Hopefully the weather will be better than this Lotus Festival back in 2004. Although the CTL drivers did put on a good show even with the bad weather.
  15. This is some of my vac forming at a company I used to work for. I made the moulds and was having issues with webbing. My machine is not this one, but was a made machine, but could produce as good as result as this professional machine, albeit for a lot less than the £12000 this one cost! Once I've got it sorted, people will know as I will be requesting parts to make the moulds.
  16. I am hoping to produce as many obsolete vac-formed Lotus parts in the future. I have a machine, but it's in bits, so not operational at the moment. It's going to get setup in my new carport, which I am still constructing, but nearly there. Also the process will require several moulds to form the final buck to produce the original part. This will require an original part to take the mould from, so I will need to 'borrow' items to make my moulds, but the part would not get damaged in this process. It will take some cash outlay and will take time, but once I have my bucks I will be able to make as many as I want of the part. Items I'm considering first will be Esprit light surrounds, G car quarter glass surround trim, G car rear light surrounds, SD1 lights. Stuff that's been affected by weather and sun damage, lost it's colour.
  17. Thanks, like your brake project, it takes time to get a final solution to the problem. Given it some thought today and decided not to chop the bonnet about. I'm going to design my own head to replace the Aygo wiper arm version. The one I will design will need to just be flat, unlike the Aygo that rises to make it hit the bonnet. I'm going to have it machined in alloy, the pivot pin will be replaced with a pivot type bolt to reassemble it. I think with this part made and assembled on the wiper arm, it will work fine.
  18. Hi Again, some more news regarding my wiper arm situation. My Toyota Aygo wiper arm arrived today, so had a go at fitting it, also the other two sizes of ball joints I thought I might need for the control arm, but didn't in the end. The results are good news and bad news, but not given up yet. The wiper arm works with minimal alteration, all I had to do was file a small amount off the mount taper shoulder, about an 1-2mm, that's all it needed to fit and work. The control arm didn't require a ball joint, just a M8 bolt with a shank on it. I cut the head off, then mounted it to the base plate, as the control arm just mounts on a small shaft. I think on the Toyota car it might have a compression ring in a groove to grip the arm, but mine didn't, but it didn't jump off. This is a minor detail, as a post could be machined to suit. The big, and I mean big problem is it hits the bonnet on the full stroke again, like the Yaris arm does. I had the bonnet laying on he latches closed, so it missed the arm, but if it was shut it would have hit it quit a lot. There are a few options that could be done to correct this, but not easy for the novice Esprit owner, not used to doing modifying repairs. The arm could be shaved down to miss the bonnet, but I think this will weaken the arm. Wiper arms are under a lot of stress when operating, so if material is removed from the main body, it could break if the arm is operated on a dryish screen. The mounting head could be replaced with another wiper arm head. The early Aygo and C1 arms which I and several others have used, the mount head misses the bonnet. This could be made to fit the new Aygo arm. This option and the one I'm considering, but the biggest and most work, is to modify the bonnet. The two raised bumps on the bonnet, I'm considering moving them so they can accommodate the new wiper arm. I will move both so they still match, I can do this as I am getting my car painted, so modifying the fibreglass ain't a big deal. The bumps need to move about 25 mm aross so the arm on full sweep will pass through the raised bumps. It's this or just remove the material and have a cut out like the washer jets. I think modifying a perfectly good arm that works very well will be more work and not look as good when done. The bumps moved over 25mm, no one is going to notice this mod. I've shot a video of the wiper arm in action. It doesn't judder like my old C1 wiper arm, also it's fitted with a 26" blade. https://farm1.staticflickr.com/910/41236005025_871181b021_b.jpg[/img
  19. To be fair, I think when I first looked at the Yaris wiper arm, the Aygo was not this new style arm, it was like the Citroen C1. Early Aygo's were basically the same car, it's only these new generation ones with the new arm design, that are different, so haven't really looked before. The Yaris arm I think will work, it's just this one looks so much better for our needs. Plus being under £70 quid for a complete arm, was expecting over £100 when I asked, we won't need to buy secondhand. I've only got a secondhand one to test, if it works I might buy a brand new one. If it all works (I've just ordered some threaded ball joints in a couple of sizes for the control arm mount), I will look at getting a batch of base plates laser cut.
  20. I don't know if this applies to all early wiper arms, but I have heard that they break on the wiper blade pin, it's a weak point. I think you can still get replacement pins to hold the blade, but not replacement wiper arms, so some people have sourced other wiper arms as it's a recurring problem. This is not a problem with the wiper motor, just the wiper arm. I'm replacing mine because the original on the car when I got it, was the original arm, but with a modified head to hold the blade, for the reason I've just mentioned. This didn't last ages, I repaired it a couple of times, but I then sourced another alternative wiper arm. I got the Citeron C1 wiper arm, purchased two from a scrapyard, but they need modifying to shorten them and a piece removed from the taper mount. Also the control arm can need modifying to work correctly. Also whatever arm is fitted, the base plate needs a new one with the control arm in located in a different location. I purchased a Toyota Yaris to see if this would fit, but I'm perhaps changing my mind again having seen another alternative wiper arm. It's another Toyota model, the wiper arm from the current Aygo, not Yaris. I visited the local Toyota dealer today to get a cap for my Yaris arm, then spotted this arm on the Aygo's. I've measured it up against the Yaris blade I have and it's the same length, but fitted with a 26" wiper blade. A 26" blade will fit on the screen of the Esprit as I used this size with the C1 wiper arm. I've been able to source a second hand Aygo wiper arm for twenty quid from eBay to test it will work, but if I wanted a new one they are only £66.23 (Part No. 85211-0H020) brand new, so not an expensive item. I will still need to source the ball for the control arm, but hopefully this will not be a problem. This wiper arm doesn't look as big around the mount of the arm, so hopefully will not hit the bonnet like my Yaris version is currently doing. Here's a video of the Yaris arm up against the Aygo.
  21. I will try what you said about the striker pins and spacing them off a little first, before removing material from the bonnet. Did you buy your wiper arm from new? Mine was secondhand costing just £30 from eBay.
  22. I can draw up a spacer in CAD to get made, washers are just for testing at the moment. It might even need a 3D printed cover if the Yaris one doesn't fit as the threads are too long. If it all works I would like to create a kit to do the full conversion, but need to just test for now. Another angle showing contact with the bonnet. I'm sure this will be minimal material removed from bonnet to clear wiper arm. I'm talking a small amount of filing off the fibreglass in a shallow curve.
  23. I will see if I can get a nut cover tomorrow from the Toyota dealer. Also see if I can get a ball threaded joint locally.
  24. Hi, I've been able to try on the Toyota Yaris wiper arm on my Esprit. First thoughts are this could be an alternative wiper arm replacement. It fits on well onto the wiper motor splines, just requiring some additional washers to take up the distance to the thread. I've done no modifications to the arm and it fits on well on the taper, with about 1.6mm clearance from the base on the splines. I had the motor running with the arm attached and it moved well, once I had sorted the washer spacers to allow the spline nut to clamp the arm. I didn't have the control arm attached to anything, but the action of the arm looked good. The Yaris has a 24" wiper arm, so the same size as an Esprit. There seems to be plenty of clearance so the arm misses the screen, also enough so the control arm runs under the main wiper arm when at full sweep. I parked it a few times on full travel and the control arm looked like it will change the angle of the blade correctly. I won't know until I've attached the control arm, for this I need to purchase a ball thread. I've measured the cup on the Yaris arm, it's either a 10mm or 11mm ball required. I've found a ball joint with thread that is 10mm, so will get one to try. The problem with the setup seems to be when the arm is at full sweep. The bonnet when shut is hitting the arm, albeit just a small amount. As its not much and my car is going for a full respray, I'm going to remove some of the material from the edge of the bonnet, as I don't think it's a lot required to clear the arm. If this is the case, I think this will work with just a new base plate with repositioned control arm and threaded ball to complete the conversion. As the edge of the bonnet is painted black, removing some material and retouching this shouldn't be a major job, and won't be noticed that much. I'm willing to do this to have a wiper arm off the shelf that fits with no mods to the arm. My screen has a plastic trip at the bottom, this is because the screen got damaged by the wiper arm when I had a new screen fitted, the screen sat in a different position and the wiper arm gouged into the screen. Luckily I was able to repair it, but need to add a trim to hide the repair. Although this does help with the bottom edge going milky over time. Wiper motor splines and nut thread Wiper arm on with splines exposed Washers added to take up spines so nut can clamp wiper arm on splines Top view of arm in park position. Note the washer jet on the Yaris arm, could possibly be used if so wished Wiper arm in park position and 24" wiper blade Again parked wiper arm with 24" blade Wiper motor stopped at full travel, still seems clearance and not a problem to located the control arm. Blade also clears top of screen View of control arm sitting under main blade. This will sit higher once located on the ball threaded joint. Another view of the control arm under main wiper arm. you can see it touching bonnet Contact with bonnet, I don't think a lot will need removing from this edge Bonnet contact again. I will be getting a cap also to see how this fits over the threads. It might sit higher than normal Template new wooden base plate for positioning ball threaded joint.
  25. I'm on board as well with this conversion, as soon as you guys have completed yours and happy with the outcome, I'll be looking to purchase mine. Having seen Ian's setup at Duxford I am very impressed with the setup.
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