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OwenGT3

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Posts posted by OwenGT3

  1. 4 hours ago, Bibs said:

    Isn't that the pipe from the fuel filter which had the loop in it? The loop was there in case of an accident to stop the fuel pipe being pulled out as the engine moved if you were hit (or hit) something hard enough. Without the loop, if the pipe is pulled off you'll have a spray of very high pressure fuel on a very hot engine and manifold/turbo. 

    Mine is also like Ian's new pipe, no loop ever since I've owned the car. I think at some point the pipe on my car got damaged and the original hasn't been available for some time to replace it, so your only option now is to make one up. Personally if the engine is getting tugged away from the baulk-head to allow the loop to straighten out, I wouldn't want to be in the car at that point! 😆

  2. I've moved operations back to the front of the car and have now started to strip the front suspension (08.11.19). I started on the N/S suspension and generally it came apart reasonably easily. Most large bolts needed breaking with a strong-bar, but then removed with a ratchet spanner OK.

    The only problematic bolts were the suspension arms, upper and lower arms. The front lower arm bolt has seized in the bush, so the head of the bolt may need to be cut off to drive the bolt out, or using an angle grinder cut down the sides of the arm in the housing to remove the bolt.

    The shock-absorber and spring assembly came apart OK and was no problem removing from the car. It will be nice when it all goes back together, being all nice and cleaned up and painted.

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    • Like 1
  3. I finally removed all the valves from the head today (17.10.19). This wasn't too bad a job as I had a valve removing tool and they came apart really easily. All the guides are worn, with one inlet valve being very sloppy on number one, but the valves don't look too bad a condition generally.

    Some ports you can see blow by on the inlet valves, which obviously would be contributing to low compression. Seats on the exhaust valves were very thin and looked like they were not creating a good seal. I think once all the faces have been machined, new guides and the valves lapped in, the head will be A1 again.

    Another job I did was to dismantle the pistons and con rods. Again the pistons are in very good condition as are the rings for the mileage of the car. The pistons came apart easily and are now ready to be cleaned up.

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  4. Today (12.10.1) was spent stripping the engine some more. I removed the turbo from the exhaust manifold, this required the nuts being removed with a grinder, but I did manage to save the studs. I also stripped the inlet manifold down to it's component parts.

    As well as the engine parts, I did remove the drivers side fuel tank. I can see now why this job is so bad with the engine in, as even with easy access the tank was still tight getting it out. Once the top board, seat belt, cross-over fuel pipe and earth strap was removed, the man issue was the seat belt mount. The tank needed to be forced past this, but once past the tank came out OK.

    The fuel tanks are actually in very good condition, even with all the powder coating removed, with just surface rust on the tank. I think with a good soft shot blast and paint the tanks will come up well. The passengers tank doesn't look as bad as the driver side for powder coat removal.

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    • Like 2
  5. 23 minutes ago, Chillidoggy said:

    Assuming they're the originals liners, there is some cross-hatching visible, but they do look worn and scuffed in places to me. As I understand it, Nikasil should not be honed like cast iron liners. @CHANGES?

    I'm interested in this rebuild, as I'm currently mulling whether to take my engine out and refresh it. After all, it hasn't been out for a couple of years, and I'm getting bored.

    This is my understanding, that they shouldn't be honed @andydclements. There is the odd mark, but I would expect some on an engine that's done 97k. If there were no honing marks then possibly they would need replacing, but from first look I think they still have a good amount of life in them. I am going to measure them to see how much they have worn, but this engine I have never seen it burn/smoke or use excessive oil consumption. Also with a restoration like this, where do you stop? I'm already way over budget so if something can be saved and used a bit longer, then I will keep it.

    It's the same with the fuel tanks, they are both out now. One all the powder-coating has flaked off, the other just one small little patch. The tanks are really good condition. So do I add nearly another £1k to the restoration and buy alloy or stainless replacements or just restore the originals? I'm more than likely not going to be the next person who will have to remove them, having sold the car on by then, but if they last another 22 years, then it won't be all bad.

  6. I've continued with stripping the pistons out of the engine. All the bores and pistons are of the same condition as piston one, so really pleased the engine is good.

    The next stage is to remove the crank from the engine block, so the lower section of the engine needs removing. This shouldn't be too bad a job, but the rear crankshaft oil seal housing bolts are corroded in.

    I've applied loads of penetrating fluid, but they are not moving. Also being hex head bolts, it doesn't take long for them to ring round and then you are stuck. I am thinking of welding a bolt to the hex head dome bolts. The heat might help as well, but it's mostly to get a better purchase on the bolts to remove them. I will need to replace them all.

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  7. Today (05.10.19) I removed the sump from the engine, as I wanted to remove one of the pistons to check the bores of the engine. The sump came off relativity easily, but all bolts are showing some corrosion between the two types of materials.

    With the sump finally off, I removed piston one from the cylinder. Luckily Lotus dowel the big end caps, so you don't need to mark them. With the piston out and a wipe of the bore, I was able to see they are very good for the age of the engine. The bores are not heavily worn and you can still see the original score marks.

    The crank was also very good with no scoring on the journals. Knowing this now, I should be able to rebuild using standard replacement rings and shell caps.

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    • Like 1
  8. @Buddsy Scott Budds made some of the component parts for me, with CTL also contributing loads in help, parts and services.

    The £10k original price was in two parts, the owners sponsored the dragon, paying £4k to be part of the whole interactive art event. They then paid £6k bidding on the dragon at auction, they bought their own sponsored dragon back.

    Some more photos of the dragon IndyGoGo500

    @Stuart Monument Have you tried Caister Castle museum, he might consider buying it, beings it is quite unique, I have the guys number if so. Would be nice to keep it in the local area and on public display.

    Me giving it a dust at it's location in Chapelfield Mall during the event.

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    • Like 2
  9. I haven't worked on the Esprit for a few day, but decided to get back on it, so today (14.09.19) I stripped the rear hubs down. Again as they haven't been to bits in possibly 22 years, bolts were seized, so first thing all fixings required a good squirt of releasing fluid.

    I started to release the bearing hex head bolts, but these were seized solid, so decided to cut them off as it was easier. The lower link arm pin was also solid in the hub, so having heard the stories of cracked hubs, I decided to cut these off as well. This required cutting the pins down between the link arm and the hub pillars. Not much room for the cutter, but I was using the 1mm cutting discs.

    With the link arm out of the way one side of the pin just fell out, but the other side had to be worked out. The steel to alloy side was the easy removed side, but the steel on steel side was rusted tight. Able now to be able to hold the hub on a solid surface, I was able to drive the pin out with a punch and releasing fluid.

    The last item to be removed was the ABS sensors. Although I didn't need them when the car is rebuilt, I did want to remove them and save them, but I'm afraid this didn't happen. The sensors were corroded in the hub tight, so the only way to remove them was to break them out. This required removing the connection top, then drilling down the side of the magnets. This slot made the body of the sensor loose, so I was then able to hammer them out with a punch.

    With everything removed from one hub, it was the same process on the other hub. Another item stripped ready for the big clean up of parts.

     

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    • Like 1
  10. Well today (17.09.19) the engine finally came out. I don't know when the last time it was out, but never in my 12 years of ownership. It wasn't too bad a job to do, some fiddly pipes to disconnect at the front of the engine, awkward in true Lotus fashion, but once they were off, the lifting was relativity easy.

    I'd removed the inlet manifold to make fixing the lifting strap easier to go around the engine, which was actually nylon rope as that's all I had to hand. Putting it in I will use something better.

    The car was at the lowest point on the jack system, but once the bolts had cleared the engine mounts, the engine lifted with ease, with just a little guidance near the rear of the car so it cleared the panel, Lotus don't give you much leeway in the engine bay.

    Once cleared of the bodywork, it was just a matter of wheeling the lifting hoist back to clear of the car. I placed the engine and gearbox on a trolley with a wood sheet on top, luckily Lotus engine sumps are nice and flat to sit on.

    With the engine and gearbox out, I finally separated the two parts. The bell housing was quite dry, so no rear oil leaks, but release bearing was dry as hell. It's surprising how heavy the gearbox is just on it's own.

    The plan now is to get the engine on an engine frame to start stripping the head off. Other items on the engine and gearbox will follow the same for inspection.

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    • Like 2
  11. Today I dismantled the rear suspension. Most of the bolts came undone with relative ease, just a quirt of WD40 and the nuts could be removed. There were a few nuts that needed cutting off to remove the part, shock absorbers being one of them.

    The lower link arm was taken off with the hub, so as to remove the lower pins on the bench. The pins will be cut off so not to crack and damage the hub. Brakes were OK to remove, but new handbrake cables will need to be fitted.

    I also got the screw holding the clamp bracket out for the two injectors in the plenum manifold. A better screw will be fitted when assembling this item.

    All items will be reconditioned, painted etc. before being refitted.

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    • Like 2
  12. Today (24.08.19) was spent stripping a lot more parts from the engine and engine bay. The engine is almost ready to remove, with just a few components attached. Both sides of the engine bay were also stripped, exposing the petrol tanks. Most components that sit on top of the tanks were removed. The exhaust system and the rear hanging frame was also removed. The loom was removed from the side panels and is now tucked up to one side. Again lots of reference photos were taken for rebuild time.

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    • Like 1
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