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OwenGT3

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Posts posted by OwenGT3

  1. As much as I would like, it won't be happening. The Dragon event starts in May, so it will be in the City until the event ends around late September time. I am planning a Lotus related event around the first week of June (June 7th), just a week after the Indy 500 was raced in 1965, the event will be at the Forum in Norwich and I hope to have the dragon attending as well as some additional Lotus stuff.

    • Like 1
  2. I'm sure most on here are familiar with the trend in interactive arts sculpture trails that pop up in towns and cities during the summer months. Well I found out last Friday (19.12.14) that I have been commissioned to paint one of the sculptures in the new trail happening in Norwich City for 2015 called GoGo Dragons.

     

    What's special about my commissioning is it will be Lotus related, it will be celebrating Jim Clark's win of the Indianapolis 500 of 1965, with next year being the 50th celebration of this event and his last F1 world championship win. I can't give too many details out at the moment regarding design, but it's going to be well liked and everyone so far who has seen it has said it's a winner.

     

    The whole process started back in July 2014 with the idea presented to Classic Team Lotus and the Jim Clark Trust. I'm pleased to say both parties have been very helpful and keen to support the event granting permission for designs to be used and thus helping support a charitable cause run by the Break Charity.

     

    http://gogodragons.co.uk/

     

    I should get my dragon in the new year ready to start the whole process and finish it by the end of April 2015. So please if you have time, come and visit the Norwich dragon trail and have a picture with the Lotus dragon.

     

    Obviously if you like my design you can always bid on it when all the dragons come up for auction at the end of the summer, around September October time.

     

    Here's a picture of how big they will be.

     

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  3. Mines just gone over 90K, no blue smoke or lack of power, still runs lovely, even better since I fixed the fuel pump problem last year. I use mine all year any weather except snow, went to work in it today.  :D

    • Like 1
  4. Those rods seem expensive, I never paid that much for some I got a few years back at Donington Club Lotus event. I paid £10 each, reduced from £22 just for the event. I never fitted them because I sorted the ones on the car with a few mods and they have never bounced since.

     

    15741107732_1732d6762d_b.jpg

     

    I added a washer either side of the ball centre with a big enough hole so it would sit around the ball, this stopped any side ways float of the warn ball. To stop end float I added a spring that always applied tension on the rod to the mounting bracket on the light pod. The system has worked for for the last seven years I've owned the car and why the new arms sit in the garage still.

     

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  5. Well I got my car back on the road again Sunday with a working abs system. Andy C came over and gave me a hand on Sunday as Saturday I had no luck getting the new switch I purchased to work, I thought it was faulty, but in the end it was me!

     

    On Saturday I could not get the new switch to adjust the switching pressure of the accumulator motor regardless of where I set the adjuster screw. I could get the pump to run, but it wouldn't cut out at the correct pressure, so I was beginning to wonder if I had got the right switch rating of operating pressure of 1000 to 3000 psi.

     

    On Sunday I found out why I wasn't getting any adjustment, well Andy found out for me. He adjusted the what you would think was the adjustment screw in the top of the switch until it came out, then we discovered it wasn't the actual adjustment screw. The company that supplied the switch fit another grub screw in the top to lock the actual adjusting screw once set, so all my adjustments were the locking screw, no the adjuster underneath.

     

    It might sound a silly mistake, but all the other switches I have had didn't have any locking grub screw, plus the travel on the grub screw was so great you would naturally think it was the pressure adjusting screw. needless to say I felt a right idiot, but also pleased the switch was not faulty. After some adjusting the switch works fine and now the pump switches off exactly where I want it to, just around 2700 psi, it also repeated bang on every time.

     

    The other pressure switch for the abs warning light was adjusted and both are operating well, I've had no problems of the light going on travelling to work today, I've also removed the gauge and blanked off the end.

     

    So if you do buy a switch and have no luck with the screw to adjust the pressure, just screw it all the way out to check it's not just a locking grub screw, it will save you a lot of hassle.

     

    I tried my reassembled old switch, but that got no response in the system, so unsure what to do about that now as I don't know what's not working inside the switch, so I will take it apart again.

  6. Was it a case of that the  'shuttle' part of the switch/valve is sticking in the housing in which it slides ? or a combination of sticking shuttle and a weak contact breaker ? Following this with interest good man Owen.

     

    As there is not many components in the switch and after examining the parts, I would say it was the shuttle part that's the problem. I can't see the contacts to see if they are pitted from contact arcing, but there is no problem with the movement of the contacts.

     

    The shuttle had a coating on the outside, like a build up of fluid grim, which has now been cleaned off. there's also a small nylon washer behind the O ring on the shuttle, that was what looked like damaged and worn, I have now cleaned it up. Also there is a small 1mm hole that goes out to the small O ring on the outside of the switch, a return for the fluid I assume, I made sure this was free so no problems with pressure build up inside the switch.

     

    I'm going to have a go at making this new body, it may not work, but anything is worth a try, but when I cleaned the hydraulic side of my switch it always worked for a while before requiring another clean some months later, so to me it seems most problems are on the fluid side, not the contact side.

     

    The reason I'm hoping a new body for the old switch works is we all have the parts to build the new switch, also it works. If it is just a sticking shuttle then a new case and the old switch parts cleaned up in the new case, it should perform like a new switch.

     

    Anything is worth a try to solve this problem.

  7. With all my abs switch parts cleaned up, I reassembled the original abs switch today. To retain the contact part to the pressure senor side, the switch now has six grub screws drilled in the side of the main body. Unsure if it will hold, but going to give it a try, also I now have all the measurements required to design the new switch body.

    The body will consist of three, maybe four parts. There will be a main body, a screw in disc part to shut off the fluid side after assembly and finally a screw on ring to hold the plastic body to the metal part. The forth part will be the stainless end that you see in the end of the switch. The body will be steel and a flat will be added to tighten it up as the main body will now be round in shape.

    I hope to do some of the drawing over the weekend, if this works I don't see myself making hundreds of bodies for people to refurbish thier switch in the future. I will however make the drawing available so its up to the indiviual to decide if they want to get one made and fit to thier car.

    • Like 1
  8. well done. What about the shine on the other Wheels? Are they ball blasted on the edge or are they painted?

     

    Kind regards,

    Jacques.

     

    My wheels have been redone since I've owned the car, properly powder coated. The wheels are powder coated black, then painted with liquid silver paint, then finally powder lacquer coated.

     

    The repairs I've done are just off the shelf Hycote acrylic paint. I used aluminium finish as it seemed the best for colour match, although the lacquer does darken it down when applied.

  9. I use a solar panel version I got from Maplin. This way I can take it with me any where I go and doesn't require any mains power supply. I got the 13 watt power version: http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/13w-solar-briefcase-n00cx It's great that older cars have a live 12 volt supply cigar lighter, otherwise doesn't work well on modern cars.

     

    My car sits outside all the time under a carport, but I've only ever had the car not start if it's been a very long time not using it, or the winter has been very cold like snow. About 99% of the time it stops the car from not starting, mine just sits on the passenger seat, also it works in any light, not just bright sunlight, even the outdoor PIR lights will make it work.

  10. Ouch!  :no

    15244697647_4f8baea4d0_c.jpg

     

    Here's a pic of the repaired wheel. I ended up painting the whole edge of the rim, couldn't get the colour exact, but only someone with a keen eye would perhaps notice the difference in shades of silver. I also painted all the rest of the wheel so they all matched, one other wheel had a small kerbing as well, but not as bad as the picture above. At least they look better than seeing chunks of metal missing.

     

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  11. I don't think I've ever seen one on the road other than heading to a Lotus related events or when I used to work for a company involved in their production.

     

    This one was turning into Newmarket Road in Norwich at around 5.40 to 5.45 pm this evening, exiting Judges Walk Road. It looked a really nice example of the car and still looks a beast all these years later, the only real give away regarding age being the size of the wheels, a modern car would have 18"+ size wheels fitted and rubber band tyres.  :)

  12. Thanks Jacques, but I've already repaired it, well temporary repaired, you wouldn't notice it unless you were looking for it. I will get all the wheels re-coated again at some point, I have a small mark on one of the rear wheels as well that I've touched up.

     

    It's a front wheel and I'm getting new tyres fitted next week. Once that is done I'm going to improve on the temporary repair, I'll post a pic once it's done. I've had to paint all the face edge of the wheel, so you don't see the blow in, silver isn't a great colour to blend.

  13. So the switch your going for then isnt correct for the system. The system CAN go above 3000psi quite safely. The pressure release is set at 3400psi for a reason. If anyone fitted that switch then the pressure safety aspect of the system wont work and the switch will fail before the pressure relief cuts in. Messy result.

    Its not a question of trying any switch and seeing how it goes..ive spent nearly 3 yrs on this now to get to the stage im at with the new single unit switch and really dont recomend cobbling something together..the one being mentioned above is cheap for a reason.

     

    At this point in time I have a car I want to keep on the road, so the brake switch needs to work. The original switch is knackered however many times I clean it. I'm no expert on pressure switches, but from what I've read and asked people who know about electronic switches, I found a switch that is not too bad a price and offers switching within my operational range, and as Sanj said has a proof pressure over what is required of my system pressure.

     

    As I've already had a two switch set up on my car, my system with this set up never once went over 3000 psi, so I believe the operation range of my switch should be suitable. Until a suitable alternative comes along, whether this is the switch you are developing or someone else's, I have no alternative but to buy a switch that I think will do the job.

     

    My two switch set up which was the Lotus Marques set up did work fine on my car once I had set the pressure switching correctly with a gauge. I'm only replacing the high pressure switch because of the leaking adjuster screw, unsure why as the low pressure has had no problems. The new switch is no different to the others I have already.

  14. Here's all the info on the switch and how to spec it. It says deadband is 70psig.

     

    http://docs-europe.electrocomponents.com/webdocs/11fd/0900766b811fdad2.pdf

     

    My other switches for the two switch set up I had were 2300-6000 psi and 2700 psi. The first one just never settled, it was always switching on and off, so the second one was fitted. I've had no problems with this switch other than the adjuster leaking, this is why I'm fitting another one. Low pressure switch has been no problem.

     

    The only other range to go for in the new switch is 2500-5000 psi. I decided to go for the 1000-3000 psi as the system isn't meant to go above 2700 psi, the safety valve is 3400 psi, so hopefully my range will be suitable, the only way to find out is to try it!

  15. Switch ordered, should arrive Friday, £78 including P&P. This is the high pressure side of a two switch set up.

     

    It came from this company in the end, a GEM product. Ordered over phone and paid by card, very straight forward. Hopefully will plumb in Saturday, just got to get blank for set up once gauge is removed.

     

    http://www.appeng.co.uk/

     

    PS71-50-2MGS-C-FLS18-E

     

    PS71 = Switch type

    50 = Range, 1000 to 3000 psi

    2MGS = 1/8" BSPM (G Type) Stainless Steel

    C = SPDT Circuit

    FLSI = Flying Leads with Heat Shrink Tubing 18" long

    E = EPDM Diaphragm

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