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Everything posted by robertcosta

  1. Thanks for that. It isn't naturally! not sure what is out of spec. I suspect the new eccentric shaft isn't correct. It's suppose to fit the same bearing used in the semi-auto tensioner. Oh well, no matter, went back to the auto....:-)
  2. I think you misunderstood the question. I know I haven't put on the second bolt but if you look closely at the eccentric shaft, the bearing can move freely with nothing to retain it on the bearing. The original manual tensioner was a different design and retained the earlier style bearing. In any case I've gone back to the semi-auto tensioner.
  3. Strange? I can see them. Loaded them again.
  4. It turns out that a Veglia Borletti Electric Oil Pressure sender used in Fiats seem to be the exact part for those looking for a replacement. At least it matches mine in the S1....
  5. I've been playing around with a manual tensioner on the S1 and purchased the kit that fits the modern bearing as used in the semi-auto tensioner. My question is how does the bearing stays on the eccentric shaft ?? The old style had the nut retaining the bearing but this doesn't have any restraint. Photos show the bearing pulled in and out. Is it suppose to be this way? All help appreciated 🙂
  6. As I continue the restoration I've come across quite a few parts with names...these ones at least confirm the build date! I wonder who john was? Anybody come across other tags?
  7. The clutch pressure plate fingers need to match the bearing type.
  8. At some point I'm going to re-trim the bulkhead but the base plastic is quite deformed over the years in the sun. Whats the current thinking, heat gun, make from scratch? Rob
  9. This is a well known S1!
  10. What was the original colour of the cam covers of my 1977 S1?! I've got people saying it was originally red, and I think it was black but the original ones I'm restoring, although stripped, seem to show red as the last paint layer?? Most of the pictures on the net seen to show black. Rob
  11. How much oil...a teaspoon or so is pretty normal.
  12. Thanks for the responses :-) I must confess to reusing the old shims in their original locations and not dry fitting prior to the measurement check...I 'spose its only cost me some Loctite 518.. I'm assuming you fit the old shims, check the gap, measure the old shim and order a new one with the old thickness + or - the measured gap, and this is the thickness of the new required shim? R.
  13. Hi all, OK .... Rebuilt head on engine, leak down tests perfect on all cylinders...measuring the valve clearances I'm getting silly numbers like .3 on the intakes and .4 on exhausts..not all but you get the idea. I'm trying to workout why so big? Too much Loctite 518 and it didn't squish down? Replacement valve have shorter stems? Although the valves don't leak, maybe they weren't ground in as far as they should? I'm going pull the towers off and refit them dry and see if it makes a difference. Any thoughts welcome :-) Rob
  14. If you're talking about the sender between the carby's, just screws in but you need to use some kind of sealant, I use plumbers teflon tape to great effect :-) Rob
  15. The turbo cover seems's the same except for a small ridge around the gasket point to better seal for the turbo application...
  16. Since the S1 is in bits, I want to refurbish all the metal window and door frames in satin black. Whats the best way to go about this, powdercoating, two pak spray?? Any advise is welcome! Rob
  17. Hmmmm....probably with a dash of rust. Best to drain out the fuel system and inspect the insides of the tanks. Modern petrols have lots of waxy shellacy stuff in them and if the car has been standing for quite some time it tends to varnish everything its in contact with. Cleaning out the carby's is a given as well. R.
  18. A cylinder bore gauge... Hi Danny, 95.33- 95.34mm
  19. Hi Giorgio... The pistons are stamped with "cylinder bore 95.3mm" on them so if the liners measure that, at least in one direction then I hope they are correct for the direction...the other direction however!!
  20. Advice please, rebuilding a 907 block and just measured the original cast iron liners as generally spot for the new Omega pistons at 95.3 on in the gudgeon pin axis but 95.33 - 95.34 at 90 degrees. Are they too out of round and too much clearance? Rob
  21. Apologies for the late response! I have thought of getting them made here in OZ. The basic style of jellybean wheel was a very common shape attached to Toranas and others. Go to and type in jellybean wheels... Symonds Wheels use to make customs machined out a single billet, other still do. R.
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