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  1. Hi, I've changed the belts on my V8 twice, both times with the engine in the car. Bought the lotus items for setting the tension pulleys and crankshaft. Used correct sized drill blanks (for measuring the size of a drilled hole) and an after market frequency gauge. Its a straight forward job. Having the tools allows the belt tension to be checked annually too. Cheers
  2. Hi, so did the Exige S1 ECU work with the help of Bluestreak Electronics? Thanks
  3. Had my Esprit for 8 years. Agree with the others, careful change first to second and no hard off\on the power in 5th. Other than that full welly everywhere especially when trying to pull away from my mate in his R8! Cheers
  4. Hi Alex, Good news about the cream! Not that I'm making any critism on your work at all - its been more than I could have accomplihed! Would just like to pass on some information regarding timing belts. I recently changed mine with the engine in. Took two days off work... a month later I think I had the correct tensions. I used the Lotus method and bought a tension meter to measure the frequency. It was tricky to gauge how much to move a tensioner to obtain the right tension - pretty sensitve. Next time round i will have a much better feel for the job. I got the belts at 125Hz cold and by twisting the belt it felt reasonable compared to others I have done... Golf GTi etc. I ran the engine to 80 degress C and out of interest measured them again = approx 220Hz - and they felt very tight, could hardly twist them. I think they where on the point on whining. 4 years ago when the factory replaced the belts, they whined a bit for about 200 miles. Just passing the info on and is just what I experinced. Again brilliant work by yourself and all the very best. cheers Julian
  5. Hi Alex, Fantastic work!! Maybe a bit of a sore question.... did you tension the timing belts yourself this time round? Just interested as I'm with you on the view if you do it yourself you know its done properly! Cheers
  6. Hi, I purchased Elise (thinner pads) and used one in each caliper with an Esprit pad.
  7. Hi, I had a B service done at the factory and their solution was to seal the covers with instant gasket! Made them a bit of a pig to remove recently, but the plug holes were bone dry! Cheers
  8. Hi, Back to work on the car today - been a while as I have busy. The idlers I took off the engine have the four embossed marks facing away from the engine ie towards the front of the car. These marks are on the flange (or "closed") side of the idler. The replacements are identical with the exception that the four embossed marks are on the opposite side ie not the flange side but the "open" side. I understand that the embossed marks should face outward towards the front of the car. Should I install embossed marks outwards or flange side outwards with the new idlers? Does anyone know the torque value for tightening these down? The tensioner bearings are a tight fit on the eccentric adjusters. Is a press required for removal\replacement or can they be carefully tapped apart? Interested in any comments! Cheers
  9. Hi, Really stupid question..... So the timing disc is in place, pins removed and the engine is cranked to the correct degrees to set the Left Hand belt. That is the left belt when standing behind the car looking towards the front and NOT the left when looking at the face of the timing disc?? Small dilemma!! Thanks!
  10. Hi Alex, that's £100 less than what I paid for so good price. Mine wasn't exchange thou... I still have the old unit. Cheers
  11. Hi Alex, good to see you are getting stuck in - good luck! You said you require a new clutch, FYI; I bought one from GTO Engineering - still expensive but much cheaper than from Lotus. Not sure if you have a clutch alignment tool? I used a gearbox input shaft - also from GTO - you can borrow it if you need - no worries. Cheers Julian
  12. Hi Alex, If you take up Buddsy's advice, I have some brand new belts which I can measure if you think that may help? If your belts have stretched a lot then it may be worth investigating the tolerances the belt is supposed to have yourself - instead of just taking the manufacturer's word for it? Gunter - maybe you can measure your 20k old belts if I understand correctly you have removed them from the car? Bib's no need for the scope - the engine has been stripped down and I don't believe it seized. Cheers
  13. Alex, thanks for letting us all know. I suppose the art in hind sight is to gradually increase the tension to the required tolerance being careful never to exceed the upper level which potentially could damage it? I was always under the impression that the tension could be set more than once - in fact the annual service I think says to check the tension and re tension if required. I'm still amazed that the unbroken belt had stretched so much in 4K. I recently did the cam belt on my Golf Gti and after 55K it hadn't stretched that much compared to the new one (less than 10mm). When I do my V8 I will check, turn the motor by hand several revolutions, check and adjust (again and again until the reading is constant), run the car for 30 seconds and recheck / adjust. I will then recheck after 100 Miles. One reason I want to do it my self is so I can keep an eye on things. Do you think you can get compensation? After all you took advice of others and presumably paid for this to be done "correctly" Just a thought - may be interesting to compare the un broken belt with a new one, to see if it has stretched beyond what's expected. All the best. Julian
  14. Hi, Its the belts then.... I have some in a box that I'm about to fit. How do you tell they are not made from elastic bands? Cheers
  15. Hi Alex, I have bought numerous parts from great service and same price as items quoted by the factory. Cheers
  16. Thanks guys for your input, much appreciated. I've decided to replace the tensioners and idlers along with the belts. Garth \ Gunter I have sent you my email address via forum mail. Any information such as torque settings etc you have and are willing to email me will be gratefully received. Cheers
  17. Hi Alex, unaware about the 4000 mile bit. Just to confirm what I mean; the timing itself would not be out as this is set by inserting the pins in the cams and crankshaft, locking them in place at the point off sliding on the new belts. However it is vital that the belts are not tensioned in this position. The crankshaft must be rotated (in the direction the motor runs) by the appropriate number of degrees which differ for each bank. Only when the crank is at these new positions can the belt tension(s) be set. The engine must also be turned several revolutions after tensioning back to the appropriate number of degrees and the tensions checked and re adjusted if out of tolerance. I agree with you about the engine not starting if the timing was out. In fact from what I understand the V8 is a "close" interference engine; if a camshaft sprocket is just one tooth out of alignment, there will be piston to valve contact. Assuming the tensioning was done 100% correctly using the correct components and assembling correctly with attention to detail; e.g. putting on the idlers the right way round - numbers on the bearings facing away from the block; tensioners\block mating surfaces completely free of oil, new fasteners etc. On your engine, the non broken belt looks very loose.The belt either stretched (a lot! in 4K miles) unlikely or the tensioner backed off. The broken side; the same - it got so slack that it "snatched" or the belt jumped and few teeth causing piston valve contact jamming the camshaft momentarily. Hopefully when the time comes you will be able to let us all know what happened. Good luck in sourcing the parts you need. Cheers
  18. Hi Alex, Wish you well with the rebuild, you have really been out of luck. Just incredible that more than one set of trained eyes all missed something during the cam timing! I wonder if with your rebuild you will now do this yourself, after all, the pictures prove you are more than handy with a spanner or two. Sometimes, when you do it yourself you know its done properly. My guess is maybe the cam timing disc that is put on the crank moved / was not positioned right resulting in the tensions being set correctly but with the camshafts in the wrong position. I hope you discover what caused the failure as piece of mind. I'm about to change the belts on my V8 once I have all the parts from Lotus. This is the first time I will have attempted this on the Esprit - I have done numerous other cars. If i'm successful (I better be!), I'm in Bedfordshire and wouldn't have a problem coming down to Swindon if you think I could be of assistance if you decide a cam belt DIY route. Cheers Julian
  19. Thanks Gunter. Its covered in oil so hopefully no rust! Cheers Julian
  20. Hi, Just for info. I had a 92 S4 which had fillers both sides and a fuel balance pipe between the tanks. I think the balancing pipe was much narrower in diameter than the V8 as I could never fill right up via one side. Cheers
  21. Hi, I have an oil leak where one of the oil cooler lines where it screws into the oil filter housing. I have a new washer, but does the union fitting swivel on the hose or when I unscrew the fitting will the whole hose turn as well? Looks an easy job but have Lotus made it difficult? Thanks in advance. Cheers Julian
  22. Hi, My car is due a cam belt change after four years and 6000 miles. This time I'm going to do it myself as it looks pretty straight forward although limited space as I will be leaving the engine in. I don't have access to a ramp, but I will remove the rear deck and have the car high on axle stands (I've been off the pies for a couple of weeks to help the clearance!) - has anyone replaced their belts in a similar manner? The last time the belts were done the tensioners and idlers were replaced too. What is the general opinion - should I replace the tensioners\idlers regardless? Can anyone confirm the torque settings for the tensioners and idlers.... just want to be sure I have the latest values. Comments much appreciated. Cheers Julian
  23. Hi Garth, Really sorry to hear the news, that's really bad luck. Sounds a little strange though... the events leading up to this. You say when the specialist changed the belts they only did the passenger side - but you have to first take the drivers side off first so why did they put the old belt back on - guessed you've asked yourself that? You mentioned you changed the belts from 30K on, did you also change the tensioners and idlers at each belt change too? - out of interest did you do this with the engine in or out? My car under the previous owner suffered cam failure. The tensioner seized and came away. The resulting damage was so severe it was more economical to replace the whole engine. Wish you good luck with the repair and please keep us all updated with your progress. Cheers Julian
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