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  1. @NG5 Jim, That diagram is welcome information! Many thanks! Tom '89 Esprit Turbo non-SE
  2. tje111


  3. All I have seen on eBay are the 7-piece kits from WP/engine to rear of chassis pipes, which do fortunately include the only Lotus-unique hose on the car (the one that snakes through the chassis), but not the hoses that actually connect to the radiator at the front of the car. If you can direct me to a source for these in silicone, I will be grateful. I do have a source for silicone heater hose and the WP bypass elbow.
  4. JAE in the USA has quality silicone hose sets not only for the WP/engine area but also the radiator area, all those hoses leading to the aluminum chassis pipes between the front wheels. I have never seen those offered in silicone elsewhere whether Samco, Far East or otherwise.
  5. On my '89 Turbo (non-SE), they are gaskets. It is easiest to remove the backplate if you first remove the entire intake manifold from the engine.
  6. My '89 non-SE is very original (6,212 miles when acquired in 2004) and also has a Waxstat marked 82˚C, Made in England. It has a weep hole about 1/8" in diameter, with a little teardrop-shaped float to help it bleed air but not coolant.
  7. Can you tell which brand? Also, which supplier, JAE I presume?
  8. Vanya, FYI I play the string bass professionally and so can fly in for a proper 'strum' if needed. Travis, for the best jazz sound use the index finger and keep your thumb against the fingerboard thermostat housing. ;-) Straight ahead and strive for tone, Tom
  9. Vanya, welcome. Be advised that the Gates Krikit tension gauge is a low-priced alternative to the Burroughs (I bought mine through There is lots of discussion regarding its use elsewhere on this forum. Keep calm and carry on, Tom
  10. Here is a North American source: I have not purchased injectors from John but he has a good reputation on this forum. Please do let us know how your injector project goes. Tom '89 non-SE
  11. Suggest curvaceous woman with auto club card. Most effective!
  12. This just in, see 12/8/2011 It’s Official. The Race is On! Thanks for hanging in there with us! Working for, and being fans of, a start-up organization that is building a major new facility is not always easy. Because of the complexity of the project, things don't always happen as quickly as we would all prefer. In the end, the Formula 1 United States Grand Prix™ in Austin is a reality because everyone involved wanted to get it done for the benefit of Formula 1™ in the United States. Mr. Ecclestone, the F1 teams and their sponsors, our investors and the State of Texas – this event benefits all of us. We are through the first series of challenges and now we get to the exciting part – finishing the construction of the Circuit of The Americas™, selling tickets to the 2012 Formula 1 United States Grand Prix and creating plans for an incredible fan experience. Stay tuned! We will be making a lot of announcements over the next several weeks regarding our partnerships, ticket sales, event information and much more. We promise to keep you, our most committed fans, well informed as we move forward. The 2012 Formula 1 United States Grand Prix is going to be a great event! We look forward to seeing you in Austin November 16-18, 2012. Sincerely, Geoff Moore Chief Marketing and Sales Officer Circuit of The Americas
  13. I would omit the spacers to start with, until you can check for possible interference. I run SE wheels on my '89, without spacers and without any geometry problems. Yours, Tom
  14. I was able to fish them through the RH sill next to the battery cables and A/C hoses. Reasonably straightforward if you remove the RH seat and carpeted panel under the RH quarter light. There's an access hole in the sill, under the carpet near the seat base. Not hugely fun, but not diabolically difficult either. I haven't mounted the changer yet, but have designed a sheet metal bracket to position it above the battery. One end bolts to the base of the rear battery holddown stud, and the other end mounts to the bolts for the fuel flap release solenoid. Benefit is that it doesn't take up any trunk space, nor does it have to be removed / disconnected to remove the trunk floor for other work. Cheers, Tom
  15. I installed Claudius' front kit based on 4-piston Wilwood calipers and bigger, ventilated discs. I chose their kit because it fits inside the stock 15" OZ front wheels, which I like and want to keep. The kit (calipers, hats, brackets and flex hoses) was easy to install and produced a big improvement in stopping power. Haven't tracked them yet.
  16. The usual fault-finding protocol is to inject fluorescent dye into the system, pressurize and then examine for leaks under a black (near-UV) light. Nothing magic, but (if ncessary) replacing the hoses that go through the sills will be tricky. I recall Travis Andrews (Vulcan Grey) has a pretty good photo journal on this. Please keep us posted. Yours, Tom
  17. I have WW 4-pistons from Claudius (his hats and brackets) inside the stock 15" fronts . Rotors are 11" I believe. Yet to track'em, but much much better braking than the standard TMC calipers. Yours, Tom
  18. When I bought my Esprit in 2004, my insurance company added a clause to my policy. It says any offspring under age 21 must be executed if they drive it.
  19. I was able to remove the original Blaupunkt cassette unit from my '89 by getting into the passenger footwell and pushing it out from the back. You may be able to create better access by removing some of the HVAC trunking first. Try to push it straight out, and go slowly to avoid scratching the leather on the sides of the radio surround. Once you move it just a half-inch or so you can then pull from the front. Check periodically to make sure the wiring isn't caught on something. Wear gloves and long sleeves; many sharp edges back there! Good luck. Regards, Tom
  20. Steve I have just reviewed your Front-end Fixup photos-- well done!! Would you kindly share your knowledge and experience (in a new thread, perhaps) on home plating 101 (no baseball jokes, OK)? I've used chemicals before to blacken fasteners (they look nice yet still rust), but real electroplating is something on which I could use some guidance. Congratulations and kind regards, Tom
  21. This turned out to be the problem on my 89. One pod bounced badly but the other not at all, so I had a known-good side to compare the bouncer with. The actuator rods and other linkage did not have any play or slop in them at all. I replaced the rollers inside the headlamp pod motors but that didn't help. The play was actually in the balljoints that are riveted onto each side of the headlamp pod, the ones through which the pivot bolts pass. They either wore out or weren't quite stout enough to begin with (somebody back in Hethel probably "added lightness"). There are FOUR of these little balljoints for each headlight pod (eight on the whole car); two are on the pod itself and two more riveted onto the bodyshell itself. The Lotus part number is A082U5897F, they are almost $24 a piece from Lotus Garage. SJ lists them in their online catalog at £8.98 (about $14). SJ also sells the black screws for the headlamp masks in stainless steel, a nice touch. Not only did I not feel like spending $60 to fix this problem, I was reluctant to risk scratching my paint while trying to drill out the mounting rivets. I decided to try to stiffen up the original balljoints by squirting a little silicone rubber between the ball and the mounting plate. If you try this, be sure the hole in the ball is oriented correctly before the silicone sets up, to facilitate reassembly. So far this has worked for me, no bouncing! One thing to note is that the inner pivot bolt screws into the bonnet hinge tube and it is somewhat tricky to align everything (especially the spacer washers) to reinstall the pivot bolt. Tape the washers in place, then poke a hole in the tape to accept the pivot bolt and reassemble. I also put tape on the leading edge of the bonnet to protect it from scratching, and used small pieces of foam rubber (kitchen sponges, actually) to prevent other unwanted contact between the bonnet, pod and bodyshell. When you drop the outer (non-captive) pivot-bolt nuts inside the body, tape a magnet on the end of a flexible aluminum wire and fish around to retrieve them. Another great, fiddly weekend Lotus job for you. Once everything is back together, don't forget to re-aim your lights (the whole point, right?). Best regards, Tom
  22. I fitted an Optima Red-Top model 34 (spill proof too, but lighter and better warranty than Yellow Top and yes I have replaced it under warranty after a rainy winter of disuse, I agree with the trickle charger recommendation). It fits perfectly in the factory location and the factory hold-downs and cover fit fine. Best price and shipping (USA) I found was from Summit Racing. Yours, Tom '89 FI
  23. Sometimes these T fittings crack (sometimes invisibly) with age; brass ones can be found at tropical fish stores. Yours, Tom
  24. My '89 Turbo has the Nimbus Grey sills. Yours, Tom
  25. Mike, I wanted a Lotus as soon as I saw Jim Clark on TV in the Type 25. I was 8 years old. My desire got stronger when I found out my grammar school teacher autocrossed his Europa. In 2004, after 40 years of school, work, marriage and kids, I ran right out and bought my Esprit. The wait was completely worthwhile! Bon voyage, Cap'n! With much appreciation and kindest regards, Tom Elliott San Francisco PS: Lotus has shown us all the benefits of having a robust backbone; I hope your recovery is rapid and complete.
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