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About deverett

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  • Birthday 28/06/1964

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  • Name
    Dave Everett
  • Car
    Esprit S3

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  1. I may try a hot knife, but it's very hard to get in to the space without touching the blade. I already have bruises all over my right arm, and many cuts to my fingers. The bright side is I have an undamaged left arm and left fingers to do the other side
  2. Aha, yes I wondered about the wire. I thought it might have been left over from a failed removal. I think I've probably destroyed that wire now, but I'll test it tomorrow to see if it still has continuity. Thanks.
  3. I've been working on mine for 4 days. It's so hard to get in to. I have used , knives, spatulas, bonded windscreen wires and an oscillating tool . If anyone has some advice i would very much appreciate it. I have the glass about 3/4 cut out, but the silastic or whatever bonds the back edge (towards the air intake), is so tough even the oscillating tool is having trouble cutting through, and I can't put mush pressure on the tool due to the angle. All this so I can remove the ridge cap. I'll still need to do the other side, so any tricks would very very helpful. Dave
  4. It's worth a try mate, I'll give it a go. Thanks, Dave
  5. Yes, I ordered the strip from I see at the moment they are out of stock of green, but you could probably find it on ebay as well. 5054 led strip 12v. You can cut the strip in segments of 3 leds. Each LED has a current resistor, so you don't need to do anything else. On the cut points are solder pads so you can connect up small pieces to wire. I will run these in parallel through the dash dimmer. I have a lot of LEDs in the speedo, that strip draws about 600ma. Which is still probably less than the incandescent bulb I had in there before. I bought some agressive le sided tape. The tape that comes on the led strip is very thin and there are electrical contacts on the back so I didn't want it to short on the metal of the instruments. The Voltmeter is shown there with about 6 leds (2 segments). I used only 3 on the other small instruments since light can only come out through a hole at the top and shine downward onto the scale and needle.
  6. Man, I wish my tacho was the same. It definitely seems to be glued in there. Gis, that screw is loose because I started tapping it with a rubber mallet to see if it was holding things together, it moved in about 10mm but the internals did not move. I pulled it back out and the plastic sleeve was still up as I had not reseated it yet. I'd cut this case open if I had a spare tacho, but that seems more crazy than usual for my work. I have a fireoptic camera i will try and stick inside in the next few days. That might answer some questions. But at present I'm back to using a bulb. For the tacho, the bulb can only go halfway in and the holder shrouds the other half so the light does not leak into the dash. I really want to fit LED strips as they are working out great on all the other instruments. The dash mounted dimmer also works with them. Dave
  7. Actually you have the speedo in your hand. That came apart fine for me. The tacho has a clear green sleeve that takes the light, 2 mounting screws and holds the connector.
  8. Thanks everyone. The issue is not the glass or bezel, those are easy to get off, you just twist to line up the cutouts. The issue is the internals. All the other gauges come apart fine, the tacho is rock solid in there and I'm not certain what that is due to. I did try led bulbs originally but the design of the lighting makes it worse as the led bulbs tend to use leds that point forward, while an incandescent bulb emits light all around the bulb. This leads to even darker corners. I imported my Esprit from Wales, so the speedo is in MPH and the KPH figures are smaller and in the dark more. When approaching a speed camera at night it was a struggle to work out my speed in KPH. Now I can see all numbers evenly, except for the odometer which is even brighter (I might have to put a shade behind it). Dave
  9. I'm currently fitting green led lighting inside the gauges in my dash (S2) and I am struggling to get the tacho apart. The other gauges are easy, but with all screws removed the insides are still not budging. The number on the tacho is 4784 if that helps. Hopefully someone has pulled one apart, I'm concerned about applying too much force, if that is what it needs. Attached is the speedo lit up with the led strip inside. I plan on detailing where to get the parts and do the work here when it's finished. Thanks, Dave
  10. Thanks for the great replies. The insides of the visors are history too, so I will look into the alternate visors mentioned. Dave
  11. My headlining has suffered from water ingress decades ago and the hot Aussie sun. It is literally disintegrating as you touch it. I've removed all the headlining pieces and recovering them is not a problem, but the sun visors are. Does anyone know of a set available? Mine are black vinyl one side and what would have been some light colour on the other side. Obviously they came from some other car, perhaps someone knows which one as it would be easier to find them on an original wreck rather than a Lotus wreck. Thanks, Dave
  12. I ended up getting them out, but not in a nice way. I managed to pull the console out enough to stretch it around so I could drill out the rivets on the bottom edge of each attachment. Getting to the top ones was never a problem. It's a terrible solution, but it got me there. I'm planning to make a better install solution in case I need to take this apart in the future. Thanks for the advice.
  13. Thanks Steve, I could not see deep enough in there to find where it was connected. I'll have a more substantial look today. Dave
  14. Can anyone adivse as to the best way to remove the centre console? My car is an early S3 so it has an S2 dash and S2 centre console with the vents in it. I can see the vents are pop rivetted top and bottom so I can't get a drill in there to drill them out. Is there another method? Thanks.
  15. I'd be happy to make more up, as I now have the jig. It ends up being 4 layers of 3mm material so it is very stiff. I was concerned about the fit as each one was hand fitted originally. On mine this meant the holes do not match up perfectly, I simply redrilled holes in the wooden corners once I had it fitted in the right spot and it worked out great. I was going to make all the LED lights myself, but there are good off the shelf led globe replacements for everything. Unfortunately I had already cut off some of the rear tube of the warning light indicators so I will have to put my own LEDs into them now. I did find you can get the T7 LED bulbs for anyone else wanting to upgrade. The old bulbs create a lot of heat in the back of the binnacle which is best avoided. My wiring stiff and this makes it hard to get the left and right switch panels in and causes them to pop out. I have siliconed the switch housings into the panels now so that should be better. I also pulled out the fibre optics and will fit superbright white 3mm leds into the optic housings. Then replace any particularly crispy wires for new sexy flexible ones and fit a connector. I'll make up some more masks and if people are happy with them I'll work out what they are costing me and make them available if wanted. Dave
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