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Everything posted by BobG

  1. Brilliant thanks and thanks also the Peter England for persuading Lotus. I have downloaded it in anticipation of getting the engine/box back in and seeing if it will start. my earlier should have said “now got the box fixed by Lakeside” Bob
  2. Hi all, long time since I contributed to this site, my 2001 V8 has been grounded since the gearbox broke in 2015. Not got it fixed by Lakeside and looking at putting everything back together. is there now a recognised way of achieving all the Tech 1 tool functionality without actually owning an original Lotus tool? I believe they are like hens teeth... thanks
  3. Noted the excellent comment on a better stronger box and where from, sadly since my incident of stuck in fifth and no drive the Esprit has languished outside the house with a cover over but must sort this before the winter. As I’ve got to go to the cost of getting the box removed and fixed as the least expensive option it has to be the best time to consider the stronger box and I agree with those who said don’t spend cash til it breaks! I will make enquiries on latest news and prices/availability etc and advise Cheers B
  4. Hi all, having just read this and thought I would add my recent experience. I own a silver 2001 Esprit SE for four odd years. Car has been great and I have loved it, not used in winter and mainly dry roads in summer, done about 39k miles. I have had the usual exhaust manifold studs, stuck waste gates and tick over issues all pretty much resolved and I fitted last year the PNM centre exhaust kit. Engine is standard and the box has never been touched (yet). Well last Sunday, lovely sunny morning accelerating up through the gears and not full throttle (I discovered last year that the ninth and tenth injectors stick open if you do that!) into fifth and got to about 60 mph when BANG, revs went immediately sky high and lost all drive. Discovered once had come to an involuntary stop that the gearstick was stuck in fifth and there was no drive. Ignominious return home on the AA truck. So I didn't realise that fifth gear was THAT fragile! What to do now- going to trailer car to Salisbury to let the guys see what has happened- I gather fifth gear is at the back and can be accessed without box removal. So be careful with your lovely new yellow beast!! Cheers B
  5. Well what I can say is it very fragile, I had to buy a new sump plug with a new sensor and plug and then rewire it to the sender cable. However I am not clear at all what this sender does- another EVU input? What I do know is if you disconnect it the CEL light does not come on Cheers Bob
  6. Yes many thanks all sensible thoughts and I do have a vacuum gauge. Will try this in next few days Cheers
  7. The attached photo shows my engine all rebuilt, and the BOV vacuum boost pipe is indeed tee'd into a spigot on the front of the engine close to the brake servo outlet. I am still suffering from high tick over and have run out of options - can find no evidence of induction leaks and have tried all the helpful suggestions, going to have to turn to expensive advice as next step.
  8. That's really helpful. And I assume it does learn after being reconnected- I drove the car on weekend and initially it would not tick over less than 2500 rpm! Then slowly it came down to 800 but only when car stationery. I am hoping next time it will be less initially and a developing trend.
  9. Ok I stand (or crawl) corrected! I found the tensioner needed all my strength (maybe I need to go to the gym more) and the four foot access was critical
  10. interesting, will try this test.
  11. This might help those of you attempting to replace the alternator with the engine in place. If I knew what I know now it wouldn’t have taken two hours! These are my personal experiences- I am not saying the only way but worked best for me. There is a gap between the gearbox cables and the sump through which you must push the alternator. Firstly, pulling out the circlip on one of the cables on a bracket connected to the gearbox and then removing both cables from a rubber clip under the engine allows both cables to be pushed more out of the way. Cutting the cable ties around the water hoses at the front of the engine also improves access. Then the best way I found is to ease the alternator back end first with the two bolt lugs adjacent to the cables into the space created- there is just enough access. Once in the space rotate it and roughly position it against the engine before sliding in the two long bolts to hold it. Getting the bottom nut and washer on is easy. The top nut and washer however is a real pain because there is not enough room to get to it with fingers between engine and engine bay side (and no access from above- tried that!). I tried many things- in the end a magnetic screwdriver holding the washer and gently placing it on the end of the bolt worked after several attempts , and then an open spanner, with insulating tape wrapped around the jaws to hold the nut offered up (rotating the bolt at the same time from the other end) also worked after many attempts. Replacing the wires on the alternator, the cable ties on the water pipes and the clips for the gearbox cables are all easy. Replacing the drive belt is a matter of pulling hard on the tensioner with your half inch drive socket wrench and somehow with you other hand getting the belt back on all the pulleys. I had the car four feet off the ground- I don’t think you could do this if it was only on axle stands. Hope this helps! Bob G
  12. Thanks Günter, so you are saying that when driving the ECU will hold the revs up higher, based on a whole load of inputs to the ECU and therefore the IAC, including normal or fast driving, the gear, speed and revs. This makes sense to me as it will help the next gear if the revs haven't dropped too far back. However sitting in a garage at tick over, why would the revs take so long to come back down to 800rpm? Assuming that you cleaned your idle valve (IAC) in a solvent as you previously described. And it can only be these two components the IAC and the ECU- there is nothing else that would impact on this.. or is there... an induction leak maybe? Cheers Bob G
  13. Effect of new IAC valve: Finally got it all together again with brand new IAC valve installed and engine started. However it ran immediately at 3000 rpm, was pleased I had turned the engine over without the fuel relay in (been idle for 12 months) to get the oil round. Engine was rattly initially then settled down. Important thing is that after the fourth start up the revs settled down to less then 1000 rpm but it still does what it did before- when you blip the throttle the revs take a long time to come back to less than 1000 rpm. I am assuming this is a characteristic (weakness) with the ECU. I am also assuming that as I ran the car for two years without the IAC connected the ECU went up to maximum boost signal for the IAC and then had to “learn” to signal it properly now it is reconnected. Be interested to know whether everyone’s car behaves like this of whether I may still have a fault somewhere else. Bob G
  14. Stuart which side bits are you missing? The only photos I could send you will look the same as the photos you have already put up on your post Cheers B
  15. Great thanks. I am guessing the most likely culprits for anyone in this situation are a blocked heater matrix, and the diverter valve jamming so that the vacuum when applied is doing nothing and allowing the hot water to return to the engine via the radiator return pipe. When sorted I am going to drain the system and purge it/fill with the Evans 180 product and this will stop any further risk of anything getting blocked. And the aircon (which doesn’t work either) is totally separate to the heater system and must therefore be caused by another problem- likely needing a refill like redshift. Cheers Bob
  16. Thanks Gunter, alarm was not armed when I disconnected the battery last year- assume the nicad is in the alarm box close the big engine ECU? Thanks for the advice on the fuel pump relays- just what I wanted. Cheers Bob
  17. Gunter sorry for protracted delay in thanking you for this. Have not found any more detail than you have provided, will be returning to this confusing problem ( no heat) as soon as engine back running again. I mean got to assume Europe will have another crap summer!
  18. Thanks for your comments I didn’t know the ducting up from the turbos was easy to move and slide further out- I looked before and the other end appeared buried behind much wiring etc. But your comments good- should have asked before! And I never thought of a mechanics mirror, sounds like essential kit for working on this engine. And the bits of wood- that was the only way I got the plenum off in the first place, again because of the dump valve tee pieces. As the engine has not run now for a year, when it is all up together with new alternator I want to turn the engine over before she fires to get the oil up- what is best way of doing that? Pull the wire off the crankshaft sensor for instance? Also, and as the battery has been disconnected all this time is the alarm going to play up now- perhaps because its internal battery has now gone flat? Cheers Bob
  19. Previous story was that last year the alternator died so I tried to remove it and struggled. Then as the IAC had also packed up previously (I had been running the car with it disconnected for a year seemingly with no ill effect apart from it not ticking over until engine was warm) I decide to remove the plenum to change the IAC and also hopefully achieve better access for the alternator. This proved to be completely wrong and I must still return to the underside to attend to the replacement of the alternator. However I have now replaced the IAC and returned the plenum to the top of the engine. Problems were the dump valve tee pieces- you have to sit them at 45 degrees between the two pipes and then force the plenum downwards (only way I could think of doing it) so that the tee pieces end up horizontal and equal distant along the two pipes. Also kept having trapped sensor wires between the mating surfaces of the plenum and inlet manifold. I have also figured out a way of supporting the return coolant hose that otherwise flaps about on the top of the bell housing, by extending the bolt holding the slave cylinder to its bracket and using a p clip on the extended bolt with a nyloc nut. I don’t know how Lotus originally did this, or how they secured the turbo oil pipes which also in the same area seem to flap about and vibrate. Anyway, assuming the alternator can be replaced Esprit will be back on the road by Easter Rgds Bob G
  20. no I dont think I do- will try and source it Thanks B
  21. Does anyone know where we can access a workshop manual description on how the vacuum system works in relation to the heater in a 2001 V8? My heater doesn't work very well and I wanted to understand how to take it apart and what all the complex electrics, solenoids and vacuum bits actually all do! Cheers B
  22. BobG

    Help! What is it?

    Sorry yes, had no time earlier- had chance to research it a bit better now. Amazed- never thought that one could fit an after-market traction control system! Must be staggeringly complicated somehow connecting to the ABS system which was never designed for it. Thanks Bob
  23. BobG

    Help! What is it?

    Hey Gunter, could you explain more?
  24. Hi All, finally got the right hand side cover off on my 2001 V8 having had to remove the strut and bracket first, to discover an additional electronic box stuck on top of the ECU, with a load a wires coming out of it! Can anyone help me on what it is? Tracker? ECU override so "chipped"? Appreciate anyone's help Thanks Bob
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