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  1. I don't think there's a way you could install it without the spring side inward, but I mean the other dimension. The spring is a "leg" of the U, but there are two directions you could install this. The open in toward the engine or away from the engine. I was 90% sure the open end goes toward the engine, but I started to doubt myself when it started leaking. I was 90% sure which way it went, but since it's leaking I started to doubt myself. I slipped it over the snout and had a very blunt punch that I tapped it into place. It didn't take much effort though, and I thought that tightening the cogged gear would apply the pressure required for this seal. Makes me think that the seal probably isn't seated properly.
  2. A little back story... I had my engine rebuilt due to a cracked block back around 2005. The car (and engine) sat until around 2012 when I finally put all the accessories back on the car and dropped it in place. I had issues getting the car in gear, so I ordered replacement clutch cylinders, but life happened and I didn't touch the car again until recently. Over the last few months I pulled the fuel tanks, replaced most of the fuel system, fitted my Alunox exhaust, etc. About two weeks ago I started the car and thought all was good (after fixing the timing, we were in business). When I looked under the car, however, there was a lot of oil. Figured there was a missing gasket, and it looked like it was on the front of the engine. I ordered a bunch of gaskets form JAE (here in the US). Then I struggled with getting the front pulley off the engine without messing up my timing. I discovered that the gasket behind the front cover was missing, so I installed that, and buttoned everything up. Started the car back up, but... oil leak. Pulled it all apart and realized the crankshaft seal was missing too... so I installed that. I started the car and... no oil leak. It's been 15+ years since the car has moved, so I took it on a cautious drive around the neighborhood. Then I noticed that there's still an oil leak. Not nearly as much as before, but it's still significant enough to be worried about it. I'm feeling kind of stupid at this point since I don't know what else to do. The only thing I can think of is... maybe I installed the seal backward? Which side of the "U" should face inward? I put the flat face out since that seemed most logical. Is there something else I'm missing? The amount of oil suggest that it's not a simple drip. I would still consider it excessive. At this point I'm fairly frustrated. As a note, I'm 90% sure this isn't coming from the oil pump. Evidence seems to indicate that the oil is coming from the crankshaft.
  3. So weird to see an old post and realize I was the thread starter! I had totally forgotten about this. I wouldn't be surprised if Lotus used whatever was available to them. I've heard of stories of both MG and even Jeep switching parts but using all the old parts first so you'll end up with cars of the same model year and trim, but with different parts.
  4. You're talking about the gauge panels? They are in three parts and the side pieces aren't flat. I can take some dimensions, but it's probably more work than you're thinking.
  5. Agreed. They aren't going to prevent someone from stealing your wheels if they're so inclined. If your car is somewhere that someone could jack the car up to steal your wheels, it will take them an extra couple minutes per wheel if there are locks on them. Not to mention, 80s Esprit wheels don't have a super standard bolt pattern, so the wheels (especially if you have the stock 15 inch wheels), don't have much value outside of Esprit owners (bolt pattern matches the late 90s BMW 5 series, but the center bore will be too small).
  6. There's a reason my car has sat in my garage for a good 15 years! Every time I work on it, I run into a roadblock. This time I'm not going to let it stop me. I know for a fact that as soon as I think I have everything sorted, it's going to throw more at me. I'm just disappointed in myself for discarding a part before I was 100% sure the problem had been fixed. Now comes the arduous task of setting timing, synching carbs, tuning carbs. Even then, my plan is to just get it on the road, then find someone who can properly tune the car.
  7. My solve was to build an extension that fits over the existing linkage. I just finished it up tonight, and everything seems to work as expected. I'll need to test further, but I'm pretty happy with the result. I just don't like that it turned a 2 hour project into an 8 hour project.
  8. I reached out to JAE, and they said as much. I didn't realize this, and I've discarded the original. I guess I'll be doing some fabrication!
  9. I took a good long look at things again today, and it looks like there's about 2 1/2 inches that I need to come up with. FYI. I bought the master cylinder form JAE in the US many years ago. It appeared to be a direct replacement. I'm scratching my head on this. I'm also pretty damn frustrated.
  10. This is the clutch. You can see in my pic that the pedal is all the way on the floor, I have maybe 4-5 exposed threads on the adjustment, but I would obviously need a lot more than that. There's no way that the linkage will mate up with the pedal. I can press down on the linkage and it seems to have good feedback (and it bounces back), so I think the cylinder is functioning as designed. I'm 90% that I adjusted the linkage to be the same distance out on the new assembly. It seems wild that I wouldn't have noticed that the fork is a good inch shorter (but it's possible). I'd rather not do it, but my "B" plan would be to modify the fork (cut and weld) to make it work, but I fear that I'm just missing something here.
  11. I'm buttoning up things from my Esprit being down for more than a decade. There are a few plugs around the engine bay that don't seem to go to anything that I can tell. Can anyone give me a hint as to what these might be? This is an '83 Turbo Esprit USA. \ This is on a bundle of wires on the right side of the engine. There is a double bullet and a single bullet connector. Part of the same bundle with the connector that went over to the diverter valve. ' This is a long wire that looks more blue than green. It's on the left side over the fuel tank. My guess is it's probably a ground, but I don't know where it might go. Also on the left side above the fuel tank. Two bullet connectors, and that double spade connector. I've poured though the wiring diagrams, and I honestly have no clue what these could be for (or if I should be concerned about them.
  12. I swapped my master cylinder a few months ago, but due to other tasks, I didn't reconnect the pedal at the time. Tonight I attempted to reconnect the pedal to the linkage, but it seems too short. Even with the pedal at the floor, I couldn't line the hole in the linkage up. There is some adjustment left, but even if I maxed out the adjustment I'd still be really short. I'll admit I tossed the old cylinder a while ago, but I did do a side by side comparison and didn't notice a significant difference. I feel like I'm missing something here. I'm regretting tossing the old unit, because at least I could see if the connecting bits were different. I did try pulling on the linkage, but it doesn't seem to want to come any further back.
  13. I guess I'm happy I have a turbo then! Good to know!
  14. Interesting, I just pulled both tanks with the engine in place. Had to remove seatbelts and the mounts for the struts for the hatch, but got them both out and refurbed and back into the car. It's certainly a tight fit that took some wiggling. The right side is the worst for sure. I wonder if there are some differences between Domestic and Federal (US) cars that mean that it's possible on US cars but not UK cars?
  15. Good post, I'm getting close to needing to tune my carbs, and it's the only thing that worries me because there's so much black magic. I'm pretty sure I have a flow meter with 4 indicators and color tune somewhere
  16. I discovered this is only on the Federal car, which makes me feel a lot better. I'm going to disable it, since it was obviously only for US emissions. Other changes (for anyone reading this thread in the future), I'm going to make: The vacuum pump line only supplies vacuum to the HVAC line and the brakes. I'll be removing the internals of the intake flap The ignition solenoid has been removed Instead of a vacuum line going from the top of the distributor to the ignition solenoid, it will go to the back of the front carb. This removes the flap valve portion of the vacuum circuit. It also removes the vacuum advance on the distributor when it's cold and the choke is on. The previous owner of my car didn't have any vacuum lines on the distributor, my guess is that the pressure differential under boost dials in some timing.
  17. No, it's the valve right after the turbo in the air diffuser.
  18. I've really been digging in to the vacuum circuits on my Turbo Esprit (83, USA). I'm in the middle of replacing all the vacuum lines as a step to get the engine running again. At some point, someone capped the vacuum line from the vacuum pump (so it only applies vacuum to the HVAC and brakes). This means that the ignition solenoid never provides the distributor with vacuum. In fact, I don't think there were any vacuum lines on the distributor at all when I pulled apart the engine (it's been a while though). The other side of the ignition solenoid vacuum line (on the back of the front carb) is also capped. I don't recall the car being difficult to start when it was running, so should I "rewire" the vacuum advance circuit? As a consequence, this means that the intake flap valve never had vacuum from the vacuum pump (only vacuum from the air box). Seems like this was not a good situation. What was the purpose for the intake flap valve? So the question is. Do I leave this as it was when I got the car (no vacuum advance), and do I permanently set the flap valve to be open? Or do I fix the system as designed by Lotus? What are my pros and cons here?
  19. I'm finally onto cleaning up my vacuum lines and I'm not more than two lines and I'm confused (in retrospect, this is probably why I originally was confused by this routing). I made a diagram with all of the various lines that need to be run. I felt like it was all settled, but as I started working my way around the engine starting with the HVAC line on the left of the engine, I found that the vacuum line that was supposed to connect to the ignition solenoid and flap valve has been capped. This was obviously a choice by someone, but I don't understand enough about how the various systems interact to understand the effect of capping the vacuum line. I've uploaded a pic of my vacuum diagram with the location of the capped line. Any insight would be appreciated.
  20. I haven't gotten to that step yet (a bunch of other work to do on the car). The battery will stick up for sure. I think the UK cars shove the battery further over to the passenger side. I may end up just getting a plastic battery box and attaching it far over on the side.
  21. Yeah, this all worked out. The pics aren't super clear, but here they are: This is rear wheel well, all the shiny black is the new fiberglass. You can see that the exhaust easily clears now. Looking through the rear valance. And from the top-side (you can see that there's still a lip on 3 sides that should help hold the battery in place.
  22. Good to know. I will leave it on and order some new trim. Thanks!
  23. That looks like someone just painted the finisher (looks worse than mine!)
  24. My finisher strip is looking worse for wear and I always assumed it hid a fiberglass seam, but as I was standing staring at the joint the other day I realized it may not. Before I go ripping the strip off the car, I was curious if it's a finished surface under the finisher strip? I'm inclined to leave it bare (at least for now) since the existing strip looks... poor.
  25. I went through all the wiring diagrams tonight to try to identify the pins for each wiring harness. I seem to have an issue with the RHC (Rear Harness Connector). For instance, on wiring "Sheet 4" : RHC 2 is the choke switch, however "Sheet 13" : RHC 2 is the stop light switch. And, "Sheet 2" : RHC 1 is the ignition light from the alternator, however "Sheet 13" : RHC 1 is the reverse lights Are there two RHC connectors? There are only three pins that don't conflict (5/7/10), but all the rest seem to be "doubled up".
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