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Everything posted by Wilf

  1. How do you get the clock out if the trim panel? Mine works but cannot set the hour so have to do battery disconnect at the right time!
  2. Definitely looks like an immobiliser as all the wires are black to give the thief a harder time. I fitted one to my kit car a few years back and it isolated the ignition circuits (starter and switched live to the coil) and fuel pump, if you follow the black wires you should eventually come across the original loom which should just need the matching colours reconnecting.
  3. Fortunately when you burn the hydrogen you get the water back as the product of combustion!
  4. I got one of those two - same earth problem with the stereo too!
  5. Slightly off topic but who is the new chap "array" as he seems to be posting everywhere!
  6. My earth strap for the tensioner fell apart and when I asked sjs they said it was more for radio suppression.
  7. Apologies if already asked, and this may be a stupid question but do you have to photoshop the poles out?
  8. What spec are the engine innards?
  9. Is it just me or is that whole site really not pleasant to browse?
  10. I've had my S3 for 5 years now, but with a young son arrived last year it gets used pretty rarely so I'm considering getting a 4 seater instead - an Excel being the obvious choice. Anyone else followed this path? My esprit is an N/A so performance wise probably not a lot in it. Will kiddy seats fit in or will I be swapping one little used car for another one?
  11. My s3 had lumenition from birth and it worked fine for nearly 30 years. I swapped for a powerspark when it started doing odd things as it was far cheaper (intended as diagnostics) but as it worked have left lumenition off for now
  12. Now that is a man size turbo!
  13. There is a Europa s dark grey in the company car park most days also an occasional yellow elite. I work in Newbury.
  14. To test the gauge just connect the two wires to the sender together. Cannot remember if that is full or empty on the gauge, but having the wires disconnected gives the opposite do possible to test full and empty
  15. Will get a bit toasty with the rad just in front of your toes and all the hot air in the footwell!
  16. In theory it is supposed to drawer air across the rear screen from the left vent attached to the ear to the right vent. Not entirely convinced of the effectiveness!
  17. SJs do a much cheaper exhaust than lotus bits but it's not a performance version, all the primaries are different lengths. Lotus bits version is the one to have and that is 1200ish I think.
  18. Watch for any unattached wires shorting out as well. Removing all but required fuses might be a good idea
  19. I tend to use my timing lamp to see if I'm getting a spark as it can be pointed towards the cabin so you can see it flashing whilst cranking.
  20. What colour wire have you got feeding the coil. Looking at the diagram you should have a white wire (ignition live) going to the ballast resistor, and the other end of the resistor to the coil. There should also be a white/yellow wire from the starter solenoid to the coil. (This assumes yours is lumenition equipped, if it is constant energy ignition I think it needs a special coil still but not sure which)
  21. If you are getting full voltage at the coil and it is a ballasted coil then it will be overheating as it will not be able to run with the full voltage for any length of time. On my 1983 S3 N/A the ballast is a resistor in the same fibreglass box as the coil and lumenition box. How hot is your coil getting - I'd bet it is getting so hot you will not be able to touch it for more than a second or so - that is too hot and they will give poor spark when cooking. Two options, buy a non-ballasted coil, or buy a ballast resistor and put inline with the permanent feed to the coil. The coil has two feeds, one from the starter that is only live during cranking (to give full 12V to the coil only during starting, the extra voltage giving extra strong spark to get it running) and a second ballast feed that gives the lower voltage for running post startup. I had identical symptoms of running for about 20 mins and then misfire getting gradually worse, mine would idle but would not pull at all. My cure was to junk the lumenition, I cleaned all the earths, connections, new coil, leads cap, rotor arm etc etc to no avail. Bought a cheap (30 quid!) electronic ignition kit off ebay as a sanity check and the problem went away. I can only assume my Lumenition has a fault of some sort, which is not so bad considering it is 30 years old. Yours could be just an overheating coil so probably worth doing that first.
  22. You have swapped the coil like for like, but is it wired correctly - are you getting 9V at the coil with the engine running? Does the coil get very hot?
  23. If they are like the mirrors on my S3 then they are almost laughable in operation - mine where not wired up properly when I bought it and my initial recation was that they were broken! There are four solenoids in the mirror fitted in N, S, E, W positions and when you move the little joystick it energises the relevant solenoid which gives the mirror a "tap" in the right direction. To adjust it you wiggle the joystick to apply repeated "taps". Should be simple enough to just apply 12V to each solenoid wire pair in turn. I can look up the wiring on the S3 diagram if you do not have it, or trial and error would do it.
  24. Mine stops ticking once seemingly once pressure is built up. Would a leaky valve on the fuel pump have the double affect of poor running and constant tick? Is there a specified litres per minute for these pumps?
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