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Wilf

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Everything posted by Wilf

  1. Went for a decent drive and on return the coil still seems too hot in my mind but not cutting out or spluttering as it used to, lumention box gets equally hot (not too hot to touch but too hot to comfotably hold for more than 5 seconds). On an evening like today the entire engine bay is also pretty darn hot too, to the extent that I guess a certain amount of heat must be from the general hot environment. I have the tin foil on the inside of the coil/lumenition box but how much use will it be there? Must still have an earth issue as this seems to be the main reason the coil has to work harder from a bit of googling. This ones starting to cheese me off and I usually relish an electrical fault.... Has anyone else ever checked how hot their coil is after a decent run on an S3 with lumenition?
  2. If all else fails the wiper motors are often a generic lucas design with the only special bit being the main gear in the gearbox which has the specific angle of wipe. The one on my 83 esprit looks to be the same as the one I had on my 85 mini.
  3. I'm not taking any chances, I have no experience with this stuff so am getting someone in to tell me what to do. Ironically if I had not had someone who could at least recognise it chances are I would just have removed it myself and been none the wiser. I'd not even considered it being asbestos.
  4. He should be pleased. They might help him tidy afterwards.
  5. It's currently in sheet form, intact and not a risk sat safely in the chimney. The problem is can I get it out without damaging it and is there anything else back there. Chances are it's just the one thin board used as a fire break but I'm going to get someone in just in case. If I knew it was just the one board I would be tempted to DIY with the appropriate precautions.
  6. Had my boiler replaced today, and it looks like the board directly above the old backboiler in the chimney breast is some sort of Asbestos. Its about 60x40cm. Doing some research I have to get someone licensed to come take a sample, get it tested and then come back and remove/dispose of it. Has anyone on here had any asbestos removed? What can I expect?
  7. Cleaned up the battery connections, (+ve and -ve) and the earth connection onto the block and all is well again. Coil gets warm but not burning hot as before. Can only guess it was likely a bad earth causing the coil to work harder? Also changed the rotor arm as it seemed to be coming apart a bit so could have been that.
  8. I'm going through my S3s wiring cleaning up terminals and trying to get to the bottom of my over heating coil. Noticed that the wiring to and from the ignition switch is actually warm to the touch with the engine running. Realise all electrical loads that are ignition switched goes through these wires but was rather surprised nonetheless. Do they all do this?
  9. Well, went out for a decent long run and my problems just seem to have been delayed a bit longer. Low tension side of things looks to be fine, so changing the cap, arm, leads and plugs, and check the wiring in the distributor. Coil got so hot I could not touch it and this was a 12V one...
  10. The tyre topic seems to crop up quite frequently. There are a number of vintage/classic tyre specialists who have started sourcing old tyres made using the original moulds, maybe we need to approach them and suggest a re-run? What other period cars used the same sizes as the Esprit, there must be others out there!
  11. I've got my DAB aerial just in the car's nose, seems to work pretty well in there. I was intending to put it in the A pillar but it was easier to put it in the nose as I have no need to dismantle my interior currently.
  12. Yes I got a new ballasted coil, the symptoms are it runs just fine for about 20 mins, then misfires on anything more than very slight throttle openings. I actually ditched the ballast resistor and coil this evening and stuck a 12v coil on. Still seems to get quite hot but no misfiring or running issues now. I suppose I could have had a new coil DOA, and I'll admit I've never felt a coil after running the engine for any length of time so the heat may be normal. Anyone care to check how hot the coil gets with lumenition? Even the instructions say it will get hot. 24. I have fitted the Optronic system to my vehicle and it is working perfectly. However I have noticed that my coil is very hot. Is this normal? This is not necessarily an issue. All Coils get hot in operation and it is possible that you have not noticed before how hot the coil became before fitting an Optronic ignition. It is also likely that any additional coil temperature is only occurring on tick-over and when the engine is driven the coil temperature will return to similar levels or below those generated using points. This is not a fault and is created by the way the Optronic system operates. The rise in temperature is unlikely to damage the ignition coil. Please see our product technical section for further information. In the meantime I'll stick with the 12V coil, buy a new ballast and then try the new coil again. It does seem to be running better than it has done for quite some time now. It bugs me I have not been able to determine which bit is faulty!
  13. Well, new coil and still the same symptoms. The coil appears to be overheating (hot to the touch - not just warm) as if I swap a cold one for the hot one the engine runs fine again until the cold one heats up. Ballast resistor is in place and providing 9V to the coil as expected. I have a spare lumenition power unit and swapped that just in case - no better. So the question is: Is their a ballast resistor failure scenario that would cause only hot issues? Any other ideas? I'll probably get a new resistor just in case.
  14. Looking good, how is the clock held in the rail? I'd like to get mine out for some attention.
  15. I suspect the coil on my lumenition equipped S3 NA is on it's way out (runs fine until hot and then coughs, misfires a bit and generally unhappy. A spark tell tale showed no spark during the coughing. Let it cool a bit and its fine again until it heats up). I've seen you can buy a standard coil for 15-20 pounds, or a alleged fancy one at a lot more which is supposed to give better sparks. Are the fancy ones worth it?
  16. Whilst black is liable to absorb heat better does that not mean it will also radiate it better too? I suppose it depends on how much heat it needs to dump versus how hot the engine bay is. I have an NA so it's al arbitrary
  17. I assume you are getting no signs of life at all? The following page has a link to an optronic installation and fault finding guide http://www.newtronic.co.uk/new/main.php/lumfit This should narrow things down a bit as it allows you to test some of the component parts. The coil wiring is not too complex, the positive side has two feeds, one that gives battery voltage during cranking from the starter motor, and a second one that gives a reduced voltage via the ballast resistor used once the engine is running. The "over" voltage during cranking gives a stronger spark to get things going. Using a ballast coil on a system that does not have a ballast resistor will cause the coil to overheat. The negative terminal is connected to the lumenition box and is how it controls the spark generation, the lumention will pulse the voltage on the negative terminal triggered by the optical sensor. As the coil is just a transformer, the voltage "spike" on the low voltage terminals causes a much larger "spike" on the high tension side which is what causes the plugs to spark. The links explains how to test the overall system and the power module so should help move you forward a bit. Not the best explanation in the world, I'm sure some others will chip in and make it clearer!
  18. I've got an SJ manifold and unknown manufacture centre and rear silencer. I had to put a couple of dents in mine to stop it rubbing, but pretty pleased with it overall. The Lotus bits one is the one I'd like however, bit too pricey for me though. Biggest advantage of SJs is that I can remove the maifold if necessary now in about 45 mins. It took about 6 hours to get the original off, I changed all the studs whilst I was at it.
  19. Not much to add regarding the photos other than the greasy finger prints on the window in the shot of the model sat in the car kind of spoil it a little.
  20. How much affect would that intercooler have? Probably less than the reduction in having the intake air taken from the engine bay...
  21. Something expanding as it heats up? No idea what it might be though!
  22. I'm sure I've seen on the megasquirt forums suitable ways of linking all four inlet tracts to get a steadier vacuum reading.
  23. I think I'm going to have to bail. Wife's MX5 has sprung a leak on the power steering so I need to source a replacement tomorrow 1. Bibs - Esprit SE 2. Boots - 84 Turbo Esprit 3. Dodgy - 81 Turbo Esprit 4. Nelly9000 - Elise S2 5. Jez - Esprit S4s 6. Bazza - Essex 7. Louise (and GKP) - Elise S2 8. internets - GT3 9. Choppa - Esprit S3 Wilf - Esprit S3 10. Henry Weston-Davies - Esprit S3 11. Leigh - Elite S2.2 12. Wookie - Marcos Mantis (in case he gets a Lotus overdose) 13. PFD - (joining the non Lotus group gang.) 14. Alan & Evi - 85 Turbo Esprit 15. Hopo - Esprit S3 16. fsrowsell - SE HighWing 17. Nigeninja - Esprit Flying Carpet S4s 18. John - Excel SE 19. Mike MPx - 86 Turbo Esprit 20. Roger - lotus elan +2S JPS
  24. Would love to get copies of your drawings - I have no engine issues currently but if it did go bang it would be an option I would look into. Would PM but your inbox may be full?
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