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Everything posted by mieczkow

  1. Bibs, Posted an order yesterday. Definitely fingers crossed! Need to ship to U.S. hope that's not a difficulty. Tom Mieczkowski '89 Turbo
  2. I would try the cam-grip type socket first - with the engine out of the car that should do the trick. If you do need to resort to drilling as Travis noted it is CRITICAL to start your drill in the center. I also would recommend left-handed or reverse twist drills so you are rotating the same direction as you would when removing the bolt. There are also specialty extractors available which have a small reverse-drill carbide tip which are easier to control than a full-size drill bit - Craftsman makes a set. I have not had to remove a cam tower bolt with that particular tool but I have had great success removing sheared bolts. I usually use a sharp-point punch to make a centered dimply in the bolt or fastener, then reverse drill using that dimple to stabilize the drill location.
  3. We are now using the German-made Flennor bearing - Flennoor FS03299 I would recommend that bearing in lieu of buying something of unknown quality.
  4. We had a second tensioner bearing fail. We installed it in a customers car after the first bearing failed immediately (high pitched squeal). We replaced the squealing bearing with a second new bearing we had in the shop. Problem solved. However the customer called back and after about 1000 miles the squeal returned. By this time he had returned to his home, about 700 miles from our shop. We had ordered a new German-made Flennor bearing and sent it to him. He was able to find a local shop to replace the tensioner and that solved the problem. Both of the failed bearings came from the same batch (we had purchased both at the same time). They were unmarked as to manufacturer or origin. We had bought them from our usual supplier. They had blue plastic seals on the races. We suspect they were cheap copies, possibly Chinese in origin. This is a serious issue and I urge all of you to do whatever you can to make certain the bearings you are purchasing are good - not that there is any simple test to determine that! I will stick with Flennor German-made bearings in the future,
  5. Well, as I mentioned, we had two bearings fail - one immediately on install - squealed horribly and we went through the whole protocol of removing all the accessory belts, etc. Replaced it with a new (but identically sourced/same batch) tensioner/ That tensioner started to squeal after about 1000 miles of driving. We switched to German-made Flennor bearing and so far no problems. I strongly suspect that the failed bearings (which had no manufacturing identification on them) came from some third-world source and were either improperly lubed, improperly sealed, or improperly machined.
  6. The noise we experienced was higher pitched and much louder than what I am hearing on the clip posted here. Of the five people present four were experienced Lotus or auto mechanics. There was a split of opinions on whether it was bearing noise or belt noise but it was unanimous that it was not whine - way too loud and "squeally". Much more akin to a failing roller bearing running dry..We did several tension adjustments and they had no effect on the noise. The only thing that worked was the new belt/tensioner install. Since we were under some time pressure to get the car on the road we decided to swap them both simultaneiously. So we can't yet say definitively which it was.
  7. Interesting. We just went through a possibly similar experience in our shop. We installed an engine we had rebuilt in an '89 Esprit and upon start-up everything appeared just fine. After we logged about 40 or so miles on the car it developed an incredibly loud high-pitched squeal. We immediately suspected belt noise and one by one took off all the accessory belts. With just the cam belt (a Gates "blue" belt from JAE) it squealed just the same. We finally took both the tensioner and blue belt off the car and replaced the tensioner and installed a stock Gates "black belt" on the car. Problem solved. That day the customer drove the car back to Louisiana and had no problems at all. He took the blue belt with him, but we still have the tensioner in the shop. It feels fine if you rotate it by hand - feels exactly like you would expect a new one to feel. I have not subjected it to and high rpm testing to see if if squeals when it gets wound up to a couple of thousand rpm but I plan to do that when I get some time. The car now has over 700 miles on it and no re-occurrence of any problem.
  8. I am quite certain that the tanks Boyd's makes are modeled on SE tanks - so I am sure they will fit your car, We also have some reconditioned OEM tanks which we are willing to sell - they would be a little less costly than the Boyd tanks, I have removed and installed tanks - it is not an easy job even with the engine out of the car, It can be done with the engine in the car, but the cam towers have to come off (along with a lot of other stuff) to get the left tank out of the car and that is not a simple job.If you can find some experienced folks who would donate their labor and a shop where you can actually do the work this would be your best bet, With a team of experienced guys it should not take longer than a day or a day and a half to complete.
  9. Let me know how things work out. If you can't afford new tanks you can always re-coat the existing ones - we use POR 15 tank sealant when we reclaim OEM tanks.. It will cost you less tan $100 per tank but it is a very labor-intensive process and of course you have to remove and re-install the tanks as well.
  10. You can buy aluminum tanks for your Esprit here in the U.S. from a custom fabrication shop in Ocala Florida. The company is called Boyd Welding and they have a website We have dealt with them and have installed their tanks in our own personal Esprits as well as in several Esprits we have restored in our shop. Their pricing is reasonable and quality excellent. I don't have any financial interest in this company, so I am just passing along information for the benefit of Lotus owners especially here in the U.S.. Check their website and don't hesitate to cal them. They have supplied Esprit tanks to many others and they list them on their website as well as photos. These guys are pros and have been in the fuel tank business many years. I have been at their shop and they are a first class operation.
  11. The Tech 1 was very nice to use since the troubleshooting protocol is written specifically for that tool. I do think that you could do the same with Espritmon though. The really useful aspect for either tool is the ability to determine whether it's 26a or 26b and to be able to test activate the relays.
  12. Follow up: Found the problem - bad ECU-to-RPM relay connection. Thanks for the help!
  13. I am dealing with a difficult-to-diagnose CEL – specifically code 26B, I am in possession of a Tech 1 as well as both Freescan and Espritmon. I have a question I hope someone can answer regarding using Tech 1 and/or Espritmon and the quad drivers. Both Tech 1 and Espritmon have the capacity to fire the relays by software command. I have been able to trigger some of the relays pertinent to code 26B (the AC control relay, RPM relay, Engine Overheat relay, Solenoid change-over relay). I have also been able to trigger the secondary injectors and verify they are firing using both Tech 1 and Espritmon. I can confirm that the AC control relay is firing and the solenoid change-over relay is as well. I have just had my finger on them and I can feel them fire when commanded to do so by the software. The RPM relay is supposed to be active only at RPM above 1500. So, when the car is idling (it currently idles at around 1150) should I expect the RPM relay to fire when commanded by Tech 1 (or Espritmon) even if the idle is below 1500? Or does the car have to be turning more than 1500 rpm for the software to trigger the relay? Also, is a similar condition imposed on the engine overheat relay circuit? Will it fire upon software command any time it is activated by Tech 1 or does the car have to be at a certain temperature for the relay to respond? Any help and further advice, especially on the functions of the RPM relay circuit and the engine overheat circuit would be greatly appreciated! I have really run into a stone wall on trying to figure out what is triggering the CEL. The car appears to run fine – at least in the shop – I have not yet taken it out on the road but it starts immediately, idles strong, and responds well to the throttle. All the other parameters by all three software applications are normal. This is Artie Baldwin’s former Esprit which is an 1989 turbo which he converted to an SE by adding the chargecooler and the secondary injectors. __________________ Tom Mieczkowski 1989 Turbo Esprit
  14. The shroud is made of ABS plastic, and repairing it with fiberglass resin can be very tricky. Cracks should be repaired with an ABS solvent/filler mixture (a smelly ketone solvent and some ABS powder). You can use cloth or mat to make repairs using the ABS material just as you would with fiberglass, but the ABS solvent truly bonds with the plastic while fiberglass will often fail to bond, Some have used the old shroud as a plug and fabricated a true fiberglass shroud. Also it is popular to make a shroud from aluminum, which will work very well.
  15. Found the problem. When the wiring harness was put back in the car after the renovation the ground wire to J1C3 on the ECU should not have been re-connected. This pin is only used in non-AC cars. This caused the ECU to continuously ground the request relay as soon as the ECU received power. Consequently the AC ran continuously when the ignition was in an on position. One the pin was disconnected from the ECU and the original wiring restored the AC worked properly. Thanks for the commentary to my inquiry.
  16. One additional comment. The light green line to the request relay is disconnected and substituted by the "patch wire". That was not clear in the original picture schematic. I have added an arrow indicating which wire was disconnected - please see the updated picture. Again, thanks for your help.
  17. Oh, I meant to say I do not have a skilled Lotus tech available to me! Thanks again for your explanation.
  18. Thank you so much for the explanation. What is interesting is the AC does work with the patch - I have reversed the correction - eliminated the patch wire and wired the relay as shown in the diagram. The result is that the AC works, but it will not shut off when the cabin AC switch is turned off. Can you suggest how I should troubleshoot this problem? According to the tech at the AC shop, he said the ECU was not going to ground when the cabin switch was turned to off position. I have some skill with a multi-meter and am adept mechanically, but I am not certain what I should be seeing in the way of output. Also, when you refer to the "pressure switch" can you be more specific? And can I assume when you refer to the temperature controller is that the thermistor? Again, thank you for taking the time to explain this to me. Unfortunately I have skilled Lotus technician available to me and I will have to solve this problem myself.
  19. Well, the compressor appears to be good. I returned the car to the AC shop and they said that the only solution they could come up with was to put in a wire patch by-passing the AC Request relay. I have included a copy of their hand-drawn schematic. A couple of questions. What consequence (in theory) does by-passing the AC demand relay as indicated in the schematic? The AC appears to work fine, and the temperature selection feature cycles properly, etc. However, I am a bit troubled by not understanding this "correction" and in general I am sceptical of "work-around" solutions. Any opinions on this "fix" by the AC shop? Can someone give me a brief explanation of how the ECU and the AC system interact? As I understand it when the AC is switched on from the cockpit, the ECU is signaled and it sends voltage to the AC Request relay. Once this is energized, the request relay closes and send voltage to the AC Control relay. When this relay closes the clutch is energized and the compressor is engaged. The AC shop as the schematic shows routed the ECU signal directly to the control relay, so that power is what closes the relay and engages the compressor. But why should the original set-up not work? Is it that the ground connection through the rear harness connection has failed? Any help from knowledgeable AC folks would be greatly appreciated!
  20. Lotus Turbo Esprit (1989) Date Added: 18 February 2013 - 09:20 AM Owner: Tom Mieczkowski Short Description: A completely rebuilt Turbo Esprit at 70k miles. Engine redone down to the new liners and ceramic coated pistons, new transmission, cooling system and suspension rebuilt, complete respray, new upholstery to seats and center console, turbo rebuilt by Majestic View Vehicle
  21. After a recent complete rebuild of my 1989 non-SE Esprit I went to have my AC serviced by a local shop which has done work on my Esprit in the past. When I left after the service (they determined that the fuse in the rear boot was bad, keeping the compressor from running) they also recharged the system with R12. Things were fine and the AC blew very cold. Several days later I discovered that the AC was operating continuously - you simply could not shut it off. The AC temp control switch in the cabin was ineffective. I returned to the AC shop and they started checking things. They concluded that the AC demand signal to the ECU was defective, keeping the relay closed constantly, and thus powering the compressor continuously. The ECU replaced. No change - the compressor will still not shut off except by pulling the relay. The service shop seems stumped. They state that all other electrical connections seem fine and seem to still suspect the ECU.If I understand them correctly they are saying that the ECU when it receives a demand signal (via the cabin temp switch I presume) then sends a signal tot he relay, which closes the circuit to engage the AC clutch. They say that this signal is a ground - in effect the ECU closes a ground loop to the relay in order to activate it. They are saying that the ECU is continously grounding the relay. Can anyone advise me on where we might look next in order to determine why this "continuous on" is occurring? Tom Mieczkowski 89 Turbo Esprit St. Pete, Florida
  22. I made a tool to seize the cam sprockets in place once the engine was at TDC with the old belt still on the engine. That way I know the sprockets are perfectly aligned. I then put the belt on the cam sprockets and use a spring clip to hold the belt on the cam sprockets while I slide it over the toothed sprocket on the crankshaft. This idea of seizing the cams with a tool is a common technique on a lot of cars and works very well. The "tool" is just two appropriately sized heavy aluminum plates with allen bolts threaded into the plates to squeeze the sprockets. The sprockets have large access hole so it is easy to grab them. The plate extends beyond the edge of the cam sprockets so the belt cannot slide off. It's a good technique. And, as others have urged, always make several manual turns of the engine to check for clearance. Tom Mieczkowski '89 Turbo Esprit
  23. For what it's worth I have removed my oil cooler (I have a '89 Turbo Esprit) and re-installed it as aprt of a front end rebuild. I read a lot of scary talk about wrecking it etc. I got the proper wrenches (used) on eBay and that means one which grabs the faceted nipple on the cooler snugly as well as one which is the appropriate size for the compression nut. Once the wrenches were set on the nipple and nut I did a gentle "tap-tap-tap" with a wooden mallet and they came off cleanly. When I re-installed I did exactly the same, only tightening obviously, and when the car was re-started the oil cooler functioned perfectly, no leaks, no drips, etc. I think the whole issue is technique. As Mr. Natural said "the right tool for the right job" and also common sense. Gentle tapping, patience, and persistence will get the job done. And if you do end up breaking it, it's not a disaster (on a Turbo Esprit) because it is a stock Setrab oil cooler that you can buy new for about $70, It's listed on Doc Hess's website equivalence parts. Tom Mieczkowski '89 Turbo Esprit
  24. Tom Mieczkowski St. Petersburg Florida SCCFC20A8KHF62515 1989 Esprit Turbo (non-SE)
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