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Brandt

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Everything posted by Brandt

  1. Hi Dave Can you refer me to a dealer selling the correct seal? I have not been able to find a dealer that can provided a directional seal. Cheers Brandt
  2. Hi Everyone To echo Michel's question: I'm also considering going with an electronic timing system for my '83 Turbo Esprit. Due to the 4 throttle bodies, I heard it is quite difficult to get a clean MAP reading. What have you guys out there done to get by this problem? Where did you place the MAP sensor on your systems? Kind regards Brandt
  3. Hi Dave The price is quite good if compared to other products, and your car will still look original, so I though it might be worth consideration. Please post some pics and let know your thoughts on the kit, I'm curious to know if it is really as easy as their website indicates! Regards Brandt
  4. Hi Dave If you're only concerned about the points and the condensor, have you considered the following option?: http://www.simonbbc.com/ I haven't used them myself, but on paper it looks like a very good option to me. Regards Brandt
  5. Hi I need to remove the right door mirror glass as it has been replaced previously but been cut very badly (DPO). How does one remove the glass? Does it simply pull off? Brandt
  6. Hi Roger The User Manual for my '83 Turbo Esprit says 12 Liters. Brandt
  7. Hi Everyone The seat on my wastegate exhaust manifold is quite damaged, so I took the wastegate and manifold off to the macine shop for repairs. In all this I found that my almost new diaphram had been seriously damaged, as I believe fuel somehow ended up inside the wategate, and that the fuel ate the diaphram. The point is, the guy at the machine shop suggested he makes a piston with sleave for the actuator, with a nice teflon seal. I'm very tempted by this (well, Synaps Engineerign makes wastegates like this), but I'm concerned that the aluminium bits of the wastegate runs too hot for the teflon (The max temperature spec I found for teflon is 260
  8. Hi Everyone Well, it seems I've got the Lotus Esprit going Unfortunately I've changed a bunch of stuff in the same go, so I
  9. Hi All John, I've got Des Hamilton's book. Only wish it explained the actual operation of the carbs better, but at least the Lotus manual does that. I have found a nice link (http://www.sideways-technologies.co.uk/for...l?m-1201970113/) describing how to test the actual fuel level in the carbs, and that I will do tomorrow. I know it something small somewhere; but WHERE?? Roger, welcome back to Africa! Kind regards Brandt
  10. Thanks for the replies guys. Andy, I
  11. Hi Gorgio Where did you get the overhaul kit from? Any part numbers you can share? Kind regards Brandt
  12. Hi Everyone Wel the Lotus is all assembled again, but it still has the misfire . I can clearly see the backfire through the carbs at this time. And all the cylinders are spitting. So I took the Lotus to have it dyno tuned. Unfortunately the dyno guys I went to are not too experienced on carbs, so they could not help, but they said the Esprit was running very lean, all the way to 4500RPM, at which time it switched to becoming very rich. So rich they said it was just about flooding! And they said it was running so lean at low RPM, that melting pistons is a possiblility. All the jets are as specified by the manual, well so I thought. When I got the car back home I rechecked all the jets, and found that the needle jet was a 150 (on both carbs), instead of a 200 as specified. All the other jest are the correct size. I took the carbs apart and checked that everything is clean and no piping is blocked. This all looked good. Can the too small needle jet explain why the engine is running lean at low RPM? I would have thought that with a too small needle jet it would run fine at lower RPM and go lean at high RPM. Any ideas? Can ignition timing have any effect here? Kind regards Brandt
  13. Hi, Thanks for the weight Giorgio, and thanks for the interesting information Travis. Kind regards Brandt
  14. Hi Everyone There's been a discussion on the Giugiaro Technical room, to see if it is possible to adjust the Trapezoidal Timing Belt with a Clavis gauge. It the only expected real difference between the setup for the Trapezoidal Timing Belt and the HTD Timing Belt seems to be the weight of the HTD Timing Belt. It is expected that the HTD Timing Belt is heavier than the Trapezoidal Timing Belt, and thus that a higher calibration frequency is required for the Trapezoidal Timing Belt. If I have the weight of the HTD belt, and I can measure my own Trapezoidal Timing Belt, its an easy calculation to get the Clavis frequency for the Trapezoidal Timing Belt. So, can someone PLEASE measure and tell me the weight of an HTD belt? Kind regards Brandt
  15. Hi Ralph I'm guessing that the HTD belt is slightly heavier than the trapezoidal belt, which means that the trapezoidal belt should have a slightly higher frequency than the HTD belt. What you
  16. Hi Everyone Ralph, I also saw the formula, and I assumed all of the variables are pretty much the same for the HTD belt and the trapezoidal belt, except I was unsure on the weight of the belts (M in the formula). Does anyone have the weight of a HTD belt for me? Iv'e adjusted the belt tension using the 90
  17. Hi Everyone Is there a specification for adjusting the trapeziodal cam belt using a Clavis Gauge? Can the round tooth belt specification be used? Kind regards Brandt
  18. Hi Everyone Sitting around in the empty engine bay of my S3 Esprit Turbo I noticed the following: http://www.lotusespritforum.com/forums/ind...ost&id=8516 Clearly some welding needs to be done here. I'm considering using 316 Stainless rods, simply because of rust, but I'm not sure it'll work with the chassis. So please advice me on arc welding the Chassis: 1) What kind of preweld surface preperation must be done on the chassis? 2) Arc Welding; what kind of rods is best to use? 3) Post weld: Just cover with nomal antirust paint? Kind regards Brandt
  19. Hi Everyone. The engine is out of the G-car, and I was scrubbing the engine bay a bit today. I noticed a few nicks on both the AC pipes in the engine bay. I not sure if the AC pipes are leaking or not, but I'd hate to put the engine back and discover the pipes are actually leaking. I bought the car with a broken fan belt on the AC, so I've never seen the AC working. When I disconnected the pipes form the AC compressor, I heard only a very slight hiss, so I am suspecting a leak. So I need advice on removing the pipes. Can anyone give advise on what needs to be removed? Regards Brandt
  20. Paul, did you also make an "inspection hole" to get to the handbrake braket? I was looking at removing the sill to get to the handbrake braket, but after looking at how the sill was kept in position it seemed that the air outlet in the engine compartment was fibre glassed in position. I wasn't going to break that! Regards Brandt
  21. Jimmy, at what current are you driving the LED's? I'm also planning to build in some LED's (somewhere in the next year), and the idea is to place at least two 350mA LED's in the speedo and tach. I'm also planning to build an electronic dimmer, as I'm optimistic that I might need it! I was wonder if I should switch to red backlight or stick with green. Red for the advantage of night vision (if red really helps for nightvision!), or green for an original look. (hmm, maybe i can do both and make it switchable!) Regards Brandt
  22. Thanks for the encouraging words Steve. I'm still surprised how smooth the engine ran, even with the misfire. So I'm sure the power increase will be very noticible! I actually expected a inlet valve to be sick, as the inlet manifold/carburttor insides was quite black. Can anyone explain to me why the inlet side should be black? I was wondering if the gasses inside the cylinder sometimes ignited on the suck stroke (inlet valve open), as air could enter forn the inlet and exhaust manifold during this time, Regards Brandt
  23. Hi Everyone Finally the head is off. One exhaust valve is somewhat damaged for cylinder 4. See picture. Its not in focus, but gives a good idea. If you look carefully you can see the valve seat in places! I've also checked; the exhaust valve stems are 7mm (not 8mm), and there is no big water outlet on the front of the head, so this is definitely a NA head. But I've got a Turbo head to put in, so I'm all set. I think the pistons looks OK. The previous owner said he had replaced the rings. I'm seeing much fine horisontal scoure marks on the cylinders surface (I assume due to honing), but very few vertical scour marks. Am I correct is saying that it means the rings have not yet bedded in? (And I'm proud to say, with an engine crane it was a one man job to lift out the engine with gearbox intact!) Regards Brandt
  24. Hi Jeff When I got a quote for front lines ('83 turbo), I wrote down the description as it was given to me (this is per side) 1) M10x1 - 22.5mm hex to bullnose (one at each end) 2) 310mm cut length hose. But I'm not sure if the length is correct; best to take samples along. Regards Brandt
  25. SCC082910DHD11514 1983 Red Turbo Esprit Brandt, Cape Town, South Africa
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