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  1. Hi Mark I'm in Capetown, but for a job like this it may be worth to send the car to Jo'burg. So Mark, please send me the contact info. And thanks for the pdf, Daz. Brandt
  2. Steve, I'm also quite interested to know exactly what the problem is, as I suspect the inlet valves. The pervious owner (who hadn't realise it was an NA head) replaced the piston rings. I don't know if the little added compression of the new rings pushed the top over the limit. Daz, thank you very much for the detailed picture. I do have a manual with the picture, and from what I can remember, your diagram is definitely different from my manual. Unfortunately I had completely misunderstood you earlier. I thought you had fitted the NA water pump (with integral thermostat) to your car. Well, I've started to source the parts, but this is going to be a slow project, as I'm first going to do some additions at home (I'm putting up some carports for the "fleet" so I can work on cars in the garage!) I'm also studying Bigsi's thread to learn what needs to be done. I'm still very divided over whether doing it myself or taking it to a garage. But, it
  3. Thanks for the info on the inlet manifold, Steve. I have a turbo inlet manifold and will be using that one then when rebuilding! One more question. On the Turbo inlet manifold there are two black pipes. The one black pipe is for the water cooling system. What is the other black pipe for? Brandt
  4. Hi Everyone I hit a snag bleeding the clutch (mainly stupidity) but that is now sorted, so I'm back to the engine. Daz, I did the compresion test and measured an actual zero on cylinder 4. With the symptons as they are, I'm sure its a very stickey valve. Since it is the wrong head (NA), I will change it for a turbo head. Anyone have a good conditon turbo head for sale? Then the piping for the NA head: I have added the Transparent bits so you can see where the pipes run when they are hidden. The green pipe goes to the thermostat housing. There is no thick water pipe outlet on the extreme left of the head, at cylinder 4. I believe the blue pipe goes to the interior heater. The Yellow pipe seem to be an addition, where a pipe was tapped into the inlet manifold, to supply the thin pipe on the original turbo aluminium banana pipe. Why they simply didn't blank off the thin pipe on the aluminium banana pipe I don't know. Something important, is that the normal takeoff point for the internal heater (for S3 heads) have never been drilled on this head. (It should have been on the extreme right in the top picture) I suspect this means that this head belonged to an S4. Is this true? Daz, can you post here(or email to me) a picture(s) of you modification, I haven't been able to find it on the forum. Here is a picture of a S3 turbo head that I have been able to source: There seem to be two studs missing on the inlet manifold, and only 4 studs to keep the cam housing in place. Is the cam cariers held in place only by studs; or also by bolts? Brandt
  5. I found the problem: I didn't realise I HAD to remove the slave cylinder to get the beeld valve to the top. Once I did remove the slave cylinder, the air came out promptly! So it is all sorted now.
  6. Bigsi, you may just be right. I'll have to check if the rubber is still in position. As for the ezibleed system, I'm sold on the idea, but I haven't seen one in the local market; I'l do some more investigation. I was also wondering, with the bleed teghnique I was using, if the clutch pedal was released too quickly, if air could slip past the compression rubber? Brandt
  7. My Clutch master cylinder was giving trouble, so I replaced the internals; easy enouth. Now its back on the car, and I'm having struggling to bleeding the system. I've gone through 300ml of braking fluid, but it still seems as if there is air trapped in he system. When the clutch is pumped, it stiffens a up somewhat, but even with that the slave cylinder plunger only moves by a 1/6inch. I assume there is a bubble trapped somewhere. To do the beelding, I have the car's back end jacked up to reach the slave cylinder bleed valve. To bleed, I open the bleed valve, and my asistant press down the clutch lever, I close up the bleed screw, and the asistant release the clutch lever, and so on. (I assume this is the old fashioned way) Any advise will apreciated! (Just for the record, I still have the red pipe, but I will replace it somewhere in future.) Brandt
  8. Hi Daz. I will have a DOM version, as I am in South Africa, and us being ex-British property, we would get the same model as the standard in the UK. In the chassis number also match up to that. I haven't done the compression test, but it seems I will have to on the weekend. Interesting you mentioning cylinder 4, because whilst overhauling the carbs, I noticed that the air path from the turbo pipe into the carb for cylinder 4 was quite black. If I had a sticky inlet value on cylinder 4, could that explain the backfire into the carb? As for the head gasket: I noticed that air keeps on collecting the radiator, which is apparently another sign of a problematic headgasket... I have installed a 77
  9. Buddsy Tell me more about the anti-reversion plates. Where are they situated and what do they look like? Brandt
  10. Buddsy, yes, I'm quite sure it is the NA head. I haven't measured the valve stems, but it has the NA inlet manifold, with associated water pluming (and the plumbing did not fit the description of the USA turbo version either). It even have 2 thermostats in (one on the water pump, and the other the turbo inline Y themostat) Can anyone explain the reasons for cumbustion in the inlet manifold, or maybe point me towards some literature on the subject?
  11. My '83 Turbo have been missing since the day I bought it. I've done all the regular things, such as rebuild the cards, and replaced the spark plugs and leads. The rotor and cap as well as coil looks new, quess those are things the previous owner replaced. (One thing I discovered after purchasing the car was that it has a NA head on, but with the Turbo CAMs. I will replace the head sometime in the future, when I have more time/sapce available.) The missing is evident at idle, and it goes right through the rev range. Today I was checking if the coil was regularly being fired by the ignition system on a scope, but that looked OK. I noticed that when I rev the engine to 3000rpm, is that the "turbo air intake hose" swelled (puffed) briefly at times (say once every three second). Surely there must be sone sort of backfire through the carburettors for this to be happening. I'm scared to think what this must to to the turbo under boost! What woulb be the cause of a backfire through the carburettors? Please help!
  12. Finally some pics of the trumpets Iv'e had made. They are are 16mm high, but have a nice 10mm radius to guide the air in. Unfortunately I haven't taken the car for a drive yet, so I'll still have to see if they made any diffrence. Buddsy, thanks for the advice on the outlet valves, clearly I will have to find a turbo head for my car.
  13. Jan, I've found some local machine shop to make me 16mm trumpets according to my design, according to the discussion on this thread. I'll post some pics once I get the trumpets. As for the stumble, I think the best description will be a mis-fire. New sparkplugs and leads made no difference, and the rotor and cap looks very new still. So I'm starting to suspect the coil, as was found in another thread. The jets are however still as Lotus specified them, and I suspect thus the mixture may be lean. Will I notice problems with lean mixture only at full throttle? And now for my biggest worry. As far as I can tell, I have a NA head on my turbo engine. I say this because the water plumbing makes sense for the NA head. Thus I believe the setup is as follows: 1) NA head 2) Turbo cams 3) NA inlet manifold 4) NA water pump with thermostat (Also the turbo Y-type thermostat is also still there, thus there are 2 themostats in the system!) 5) DHLA 40 carburettors with Lotus specified turbo jets 6) Turbo exhaust manifold 7) the block say 910, so at least it should be a turbo block, (and hopefully turbo pistons, etc) So, I know the cooling of the NA head is not that good, but what other problems can I expect?
  14. When overhauling the carburetors on my 83 S3 Turbo I found that there was NO trumpets! I was overhauling the carburetors because the Lotus was stumbling, and it is alot better now, but still not perfect. (At least the hesitation seem to be gone now. ) How much will the lack of trumpets influence this? The other question is, what is the difference between 16mm trumpets and no trumpets? Brandt
  15. I had also wondered if the viscosity may force out the air. But then, the oil is warm when it gets to the oi radiator and the oil's viscosity should be low when it gets to the radiator. On the other hand the oil should cool as it goes through the radiator.... I did read somewhere that even when cold oil themostats allow some oil to pass to the radiator (I assume this is true for the Lotus oil thermostst as well) during which the high viscosity bleeding may take place. The reason why I thought that the radiator is one big air bubble, is that when I recently removed the pipes to the it, lots of oil came out of the connecting pipes, but very little oil came out of the radiator. Of course, it may simply be that the volume of the oil radiator is just low. When I reasembled the car, I remounted the oil raditor so that the pipes are entering/exiting at the top now.
  16. Thanks Simon. Now why didn't I think of that!; I just did that test on the water coolant pipes. Am I correct is saying that Lotus placed the oil cooler in from for the turbo models? (I thought on my Turbo Esprit it was a modification by a previuos owner) What makes me so suspect, is that both the feed (and more importantly) the outlet pipes were at the bottom of the radiator. Surely there must remain a big air bubble in the radiator? Brandt
  17. How would I kow if the oil thermostat is working at all without removing the oil thermosts to test it? Also, what temperature should it open.
  18. Do any of you guys know what should the flow rate specification for the turbo? I quess it would be something like liters per minute at a specified pressure. The other thing I was wondering about, is how many degrees should the water temperature drop, if one measured the inlet and outlet temperature. There must be many varibles, but surely there must be a rought average?
  19. I also just got a new wastegate diaphram form SJ. Bigsi, did you consider placing the old diaphram over the new one, to act as some mechnical protection?
  20. I've been doing a search for the gitch problem on the speedo of my '83 turbo on the forum, but found none. The speedo needle gives a bounce (drops down and then recovers) every quater mile! When this happen I can also hear a distinct 'tick' sound form the speedo. I've oiled the cable but it made no difference. Iv'e also taken out the speedo, and driven it with a drill, but it didn't show the glitch powered this way. I'm still suspecting the speedo, due to the 'tick' sound. Any advise? But the way, even though my speedo proudly say mph on it, it has been set up to register Kmph. And the odo also count in km.
  21. I just found out it should take 2.9 turns lock to lock. As the amount of turns to the left sounds OK, I believe the rack is centred. So something is blocking movement. I just have figure out if it is in the rack, or somewhere on the body: Project for the weekend.
  22. It takes roughtly 1 and 3/8 turns to lock to the left, and roughtly 7/8 turns to lock to the right. So basically 2 and a 1/4 form lock to lock. Is 2 and a 1/4 turns normal for the esprit? I have checked for obstructions, but haven't found any.
  23. My '83 Esprit can turn a lot more sharper to the left than to the right. I checked the amount of thread on the Tie rod ends, and they seem about the same on left and right, so nothing obvious there. (Of course the previous owner said he had the steering rack reconditioned.....) How many steering wheel turns does it take on the Esprit, form lock steering on the left to lock steering on the right?
  24. I finaly got the wastegate out; well parte of it. The nusts came lose fine, but it seems there is some sort of exhaust sealant on the screw treads on the holes and th cast iron bit won't budge. But the diaphram housing is off and there is a nice big rear in the diaphram. So i'll ge a diaphram from SJ. I was just wondering if Garrett doesn't supply the diaphram? Is it normal for rust scale to be present in the steel part of the diaphram camber? There is losts of lose rust scale present in my unit, and I think the rust scale could have helped with that hole in the diaphram. Is there an easy way to check the wastegate spring tension? Something in the line of pressing down on the spring by hand whilst the spring is resting on a scale, whilst check the scale reading? What should the scale read if the spring is compressed by say 1/2 inch?
  25. Simon, do you know what year model 2L Ford Cortina on the H/T leads? Have you tried setting the spark gaps a little smaller? Do you know if the coil is 100%?
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