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lionelmac

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About lionelmac

  • Rank
    LO
  • Birthday 20/09/1940

More Info

  • Name
    Lionel McPherson
  • Car
    Espirit S1
  • Modifications
    Air conditioning, leather trim, upgraded engine mounts, lots more.
  • Location
    Perth Australia

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  1. Lotus Esprit S1 (1976-1977) (1978) Date Added: 07 December 2007 - 06:21 PM Owner: xisab Short Description: UK delivered vehicle imported into Oz - I have owned it since 1991. Although it is an S1 as it was built in 78 it has an S2 wiring loom , twin motors on the headlights and some other S2 bits. Between then and 2006 I have fitted an integrated air conditioner/heater and replaced most of the non stressed nuts & bolts with stainless steel, zinc plated all the brackets etc that were just mild steel, treated the chassis with rust preventative, totaly rebuilt the rear bumper m
  2. Mine is one of the Perth Esprit S1's & its been here for about 15 years I think xisab
  3. Thanks Paul They look OK to me so I will drill at that & be damned. Your left mount in the photo looks way different to mine, did you change from that type? Why would you change, they look better than the later type, less for & aft movement? I used to race a CJ7 Jeep off road & thats the way we built the engine mounts, its the only way we could keep the engine in place. What did you change to? I am going by Rohans link in Iainskea's "Split engine mount" thread. Using a Silentbloc bush, industrial mount. Is your car anywhere near finished yet? xisab
  4. Can anyone with the engine out of an S1 or S2 measure the 4 holes where the engine mounts bolt to the frame? I want to make up some plates to go under the mounts (Rohans alloy industrial mounts on another thread)- but I would like to keep my car going until I change them, and its impossible to measure for a drilling pattern accurately with all the fruit arround. So if anyone can give me some accurate measurements centre to centre (+ diagonals) so I can make a drilling pattern, and confirm for me that both side are the same, I wound greatly appreciate it. xisab
  5. Hi Rohan Yay - I did supply a bolt to the guy and when you look at the mount you can see the washers are only a press fit so I thought it would have been elementary to use it, but I didn't like to tell him how to do his job. A smaller cutting tool and he might have got away with it, but he tried to take the whole 5mm at once. Awkward for me too his boss is an old friend of a friend - you know how it is. By the way, what thickness is the plate on the bottom? I was thinking of using 3mm and picking up all 4 holes in the frame, as 1/3 of the new mount will be off the mounting point on th
  6. Hi Iain Sorry to bring this old thread up again, but the last reply on it was a request for pictures of your (different) engine mounts. I would love to see these if you took a pic. I am in the middle of Rohans engine mount mod, but found it impossible (for me) to file down the inside washer - because its inside. I took it to a machinist and when he tried to turn it down both the washer and the top cup spun on the central tube, so he is now going to tack weld both and try again. I hope this works as they are now about A$197.00 for the pair. Great to see you head job turned out OK i
  7. I would love to order springs & shocks for my S1 BUT for me tyres are a bigger problem - what is the point of having a suspension that works with modern tyres if we cant get the tyres to fit the 14" wheels in the correct OD. The previous owner had already gone down to 195/60's on the front and they are too low for my driveway & I cant find 205's in the right speed rating. My rears at the moment are 235/60x14 S rated (legal in oz for rego & insurance I am assured) At the moment I am waiting for a quote from an Australian wheel manufacturer who says he can copy the rear Wolfrace
  8. Unit No 78020352G Engine No CC7780114584 Colour Oxford Blue Owner Lionel McPherson Perth WA Australia
  9. Hi Phil Dont bother with the Lotus ones unlessyou want yours to look as out of shape as they all go - take a look at any S1 the top & bottom edges warp as the items are only made of fridge door plastic. Have a look a the fibreglass ones! I have started making moulds to remake my own but I am going to use carbon fibre - (after I have taught myself how to use it) so I won't be finished for 6 to 8 months at the rate I am going - no good for you. xisab
  10. Hi Iain Just had the same problem - had to replace the battery, I used the same as last time seeing how that one lasted 8 1/2 years - an Odessy PC925 - they have a steel case and brass & stainless steel posts & bolts. I also have a built in charge & maintain which also just fits into the Lotus battery box & plugs into the 240V all the time it is parked (most of the time) xisab
  11. Hi Alireza The front shocks are also Spax adjustables but without spring seat adjustment which of course wouldn't fit in the front because the are not coil overs. The only way to lower the front is by replacing the springs with shorter ones, but as someone else has said, there is not much travel on the front suspension, so you would have even less. But you could see if Spax do a shock with the same valving but with a shorter collapsed length, this would give you back some travel. I suspect that S1&2 shocks are too long anyway and that is what bottoms out not a bump stop (where is the b
  12. Paul I seem to remember a thread from a few months back to do with adding relays to each window so they get full voltage & not through the switch, it evidently sorts out this problem. Someone was going to post a wiring diagram as well but I dont know if it came. You should do this as soon as you sort out your track problem - did you disconect the arm & try pulling the window up and down by hand - this is how I lined my track up. xisab
  13. Good to hear Iain- those clanks & bangs should be gone now. I have also played around with my cooling fans because of our higher ambient temps, and because of the added air conditioner. As I said on another thread I added a central fan as mine only had two. I also wired these myself with four extra relays and warning lights so I know which fan is running. I also added a manual overide switch so I can run all three when I want to. The newbie looking one is the extra. The switch is the square one and the LEDs are Red for radiator fans/Amber for all on manually/Green for aircond
  14. Good to see progress Iain - why is it that things Lotus take so long? Two weeks will give you time to crawl under and check all those body to frame bolts I am sure you have some loose ones - after taking mine for a drive when I got back to Perth I am sure yours needs looking at - mine was so quiet to ride in compared to yours. Check it out. xisab
  15. For Iain in Oz I took one of my lotus fans to a car airconditioning place & the matched it perfectly so I ended up with three fans instead of two - cost about A$10.00 xisab
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