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lowpass5

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  1. Ok, I've had enough of the Delco Moriane ABS system. I get periodic ABS lights and brake lights that seem to more associated with time of month or atmospheric conditions than anything else. I have an after market pressure switch in the system that seems to work OK - at least most of the time, but I have other things going on as well. I've also become very tired of listening to the periodic running of the pump motor and the pedal feel. To me this is the achilles heal of an otherwise fine exotic car, so I am done. I purchased a Honda S2000 brake booster and master cylinder assembly - which looks like it will fit nicely into the space to be vacated by the Moraine MC. I am in the process of routing a vacuum one from the Aux pump to the front compartment and fabricating the adapter bracket and pedal actuation rod, all reasonably straight forward - but what's up with those flare nuts that connect the brake lines to the Moraine MC???? The 2 fronts and the real all appear to be different fittings. I had hoped to leave the stock brake lines intact and use adapters and a t-block to interface the lines to the new 10mm inverted flare Honda MC fittings. Any idea on the the threads/flare style on the various Moraine MC fittings? I would like to have the hydraulic compontents in hand before yanking the Moraine stuff to minimize downtime. Has anyone else done this?
  2. I wish it had the previous non-ABS, but alas it carries the dreaded Delco Moraine system. I think ABS broke in around 92my. My Omega switch is working well. With the adjustment I made a few months back I no longer get the yellow ABS telltale light. The red "brake" light does come on when the pump cycles (every 3rd or 4th brake actuation) but extinguishes as soon as the pump stops. Not as good a factory switch that works properly, but definately better than one that doesn't. The dual switch system should solve brake light issue, though it's not that big of a deal. Maybe even a feature; I can tell that the pump's running even with the stereo turned all the way up - ya it's a feature, that's it! Bob
  3. Thanks Jim, Most helpful. All fixed now. That is one clean engine in the photo. Really appreciate the help. Bob
  4. Hoping to avoid pulling the plenum. It's running superbly right now. I have reasonable access under the plenum with the air clenaer box out, just no visibility. May take after it from underneath. Would be very helpful if I could narrow down the search area a bit.
  5. Replaced the Chargecooler impellor and now my Oil temp reading is now dead. Suspect I knocked of the connection off while pulling the pump free. Can anyone tell me the location of the sending unit? Can't seem to find it in the manual. Thanks, Bob
  6. Congrat's GB great accomplishment! Tough job to get MPH out of hot water. England had the most patents at the turn of the20th century -best Mechanical Engineers in the world - then and now - as far as I'm concerned. Also the most interesting cars - but I may be biased.
  7. THIS IS PAINFUL> Bought Lotus Cortina in High School with blown engine for $40. Bought Lotus Europa in College (Renault) for $150 in need of complete renovation my Sr year in college. Bought the Esprit 2 years ago needing - not too much, regular maintenance. Not too hard to figure out what I am....
  8. All done all through. Great pictures from Travis, great parts from JAE (thanks guys). Steering is tight and precise as it should be. Great experiece all around. Love driving/working on these Esprits!
  9. Thanks Sky. Looking for an explded view of the rack internals. Got some nice photos from Travis - that should do the trick!
  10. Thanks Andy, I shot Travis a PM about his experience. Also made an enquiry to JAE about the availability of a rebuild kit. I know SJ sells new racks, but I would prefer to repair or rebuild mine if possible. Bob
  11. Does anyone have an exploded parts diagram for the Stevens manual steering rack they could post or email me? I have an S4- on factory manual, but that covers the power rack. No help for my "93. My rack is a little sloppy and I'm wondering if I can tighten the gear mesh. Appreciate the help. Bob [email protected]
  12. You're right Jim, a pressure guage would be a great help. Unfortunately, I don't have one in this pressure range so I'm setting up the switch based on pump run times and pedal cycles described in the workshop manual. I know what setting cycles the pressure above the pressure relief valve, so I think I can get in the ballpark. The Omega data sheet specs the switch deadband at 345psi for the PSW-572 switch that I have, so that should be in fine if the pressure is set about right. Anyway, I will keep you posted on the performance of this system.
  13. OK, I have played with the adjustment on my Omega switch with the following results: With the switch adjusted to open at maximum pressure, the pump will run continuously with both the telltale ABS and Brake lights lit With the switch set to open at minimum pressure, the pump cycles at every brake application. The brake tell tale comes on when the pump is running, and goes out when the pump stops. The ABS tell tale doesn't light. Adjusting inbetween, I get a range performance from pump cycling every brake application to pump cycling every 7th brake application. When set for the higher brake applications, the ABS tell tale will come on and set due to the extended time the pump runs to recharge the system. In all cases the brake tell tale come on when the pump starts and goes out when it stops. The best setting seems to be around a pressure where the pump cycles after every 3 or 4 brake applications. At this setting, I never get an ABS tell tale, but as stated above, get a brake tell tale when the pump is running. Brake performace, including ABS function works well at this setting. I think I understand what may be happening with the brake tell tale. The factory switch like the Omega swith has a common lead and a normally open switch along with a normally closed switch (3 pins). On the Omega switch, both switches activate at the same time; the one that provides the ground signal to the pump closes and the one that provides low pressure signal to the ECU opens - hence the brake tell tale anytime the pump runs. Looking at the wiring diagram, I beleive the factory switch has different set points for pump ground and the low pressure switch such that the low pressure switch opens at a lower pressure than the pressure where the pump cycle switch closes. Anyway, that's the theory. If I'm right, I could eliminate the brake tell tale by permanently grounding the low pressure wire such that it never sees the switch open. I would lose any indication of a low pressure condition, but I think I could feel the low pressure condition in the brake operation. Otherwise, I could just live with the brake light coming on when the pump runs. I think I will run this way, at least for awhile. So it looks like the Omega switch can be used as a replacement for the unabtainable GM switch with this small drawback. Bob
  14. My problem is with the red tell tale brake light on the dash and the yellow ABS tell tale. Sometimes my car works fine and neither of them come on. Sometimes I get I get the red brake light for a period of time after braking then it goes out when the pump stops cycling. Other times the red light doesn't go out so I get the yellow ABS light to come on with it. Sometimes I get the red light from the get go and it never goes out - also accompanied by yellow ABS. It acts like the switch is letting the pressure drop too far before turning the pump on hense the tell tales.
  15. Thanks for the picture - that is the one that I bought. I was able to read the lable on the one that's presently installed on my car. It is an Omega switch and it is adjustable. Here's a picture of it and the link for Omega. I will attempt to adjust it this weekend. Looks to be $135 interesting no? .http://www.omega.com/ppt/pptsc.asp?ref=PSW-500&nav=
  16. Thanks Jim, I will position a mirror this weekend to read the rest of the label. Think it may be an Omega Engineering switch. I can read Samford on the top of it. Judging from what I read on their website, it may be adjustable. That would solve my problems I think. We'll see....
  17. Just purchased a used brake switch. I have an intermittant brake light and associated ABS light which I had hoped to clear. Problem is, the used switch is totally different than the one on my car. The switch I purchased has a black plastic body with 3 pin connector molded into the body. The switch on my car looks to be an aftermarket unit. It has a pigtail about 8 inches long with a 3 pin black connector at the end of it. The body of the switch is much smaller in diameter than the one I bought and appears to be Stainless Steel. it has a white lable on it the reads .... Engineering and 5000psi max on it. Can't read the underside of this switch. Anyone have a picture of the correct switch? Any idea what is mounted to my car now? Thanks, Bob
  18. Congrat's Robert! Welcome to the family. Would love to have a look at her once she is aclimated to her new home. Bob
  19. Your Lotus dealer carries a touch up pen (brush actually) for about $15. The red matches nicley - no experience with the other colors. This works well for repairing rock chips. Many good how-tos on the web. Basically use a toothpick to dab the paint into the chip divet making sure not to over fill. Let dry and repeat until divet is just proud. Sand with 2000 grit, hand finish with rubbing compound and you're done.
  20. That is a great story! I am sooo jealous.
  21. No sign of sunshine in Arizona. Only houses moving are repos and short sells. Aviation industry is also getting battered thanks to our brilliant Washington politicians. One of the few industries that still has high paying jobs and generates a trade surplus and our elected officials trash it - priceless...
  22. Went to try the engine RPM drop test described in Dermot's Freescan Manual. I have always seen a fair bit of variation on the Engine Data screen and this time was no different. I get readings that jump around, probably plus or minus 25 RPMs or so. Disconnecting the IAC and uplugging the spark plug wires one at a time, I couldn't detect any change in RPM on any of them. Switching to the Dashboard and reading the analog tach, I could maybe see a 10 RPM drop on 1 and 2 and no change on 3 and 4. Is it normal to see the RPM reading jump around that much at idle? Any idea where I went wrong on the plug test? Thanks, Bob
  23. How about this one ? Project car if I ever saw one.... A trip across the pond, good buffing (as advertized) and you're done! Reply to: [email protected] [?] Date: 2009-01-13, 1:55PM MST 1980 Lotus Eclat Sprint 2 + 2 62000 original box A miles. Four cylinder dohc 5 speed manual transmission. Runs and drives has been parked, needs tires. This vehicle is all original and would be a great candidate for restoration. Clean title and keys. EXCELLENT BODY ONLY IN NEED OF GOOD BUFFING. This vehicle needs very little work to be road ready! Call 602-738-0881 $3000-obo. Location: Globe, az it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests PostingID: 991598745
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