CarBuff

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BE SAFE with the springs. You don't want those popping off onto you.

You need several different sizes of copper washer to remove ALL the Bosch fuel components. Years ago, I bought a boxed kit of various sizes. https://www.amazon.com/Eowpower-140Pcs-Sealing-Washers-Assortment/dp/B01N2WHZ13 Most of the car's are 8 mm, but there are a few 10, 12s, and 14s (or is it 15mm? sorry). During this pandemic and lockdown, I amused myself by smoothing the pressed ridges on my old washers so that they could be used again. Developed that 'skill' one time, when I was short on new washers while removing the WUR (Warm Up Regulator). The smoothing process works! No issues The Injector Fitting Kit is needed when removing the injectors for spray-pattern and opening pressure testing. The thin ones on the tip are really important (if torn, that is a vacuum leak). The fatter green or black one at the top merely centers the injector in its 'hole'. If you are just removing the manifold, you don't need to remove the injectors. Just the compression hex fitting at the end of the plastic fuel line.

X2 on using that Dremel you bought many years ago... Also (you didn't hear this from ME) but SOME people have just routed the new hose along the bottom of the frame rather than thread it through the original holes. I've seen it on a couple of Esprits I've helped with.

Does your S3 have aircon? That creates another aspect of troubleshooting. The double-contact fan control relays are a good place to start. On an '86 they should be in the front boot. Don't mix up the single contact type with the doubles. (On a Stevens car, all dual-contact relays were fitted with a blue plastic socket/base...not sure about G-cars) If you mess with the relays, make sure you don't leave the bundle where the headlight pod mechanisms can contact them, else you will be starting another topic soon...

All the information you need is in Section LD of the USA market manual. PM me if you need it.

Assume that when you say you mean applying fuel by pressing down a bit on the accelerator when cranking? That is normal starting procedure (mentioned in the Owners Manual) since there MUST be airflow pushing on the metering vane to dispense fuel to the injectors. The engine will not start if the throttles are closed. Bosch FI is critically dependent on a 'tight' intake system. Are any gaskets missing or poorly sealed? Could there be any cracked or loose vacuum lines? (I know you said it was a Friend's car, wink wink)

Regards the Esprit: Yes, it is illegal to run it to redline in any gear over second. I DO try to do that once a month. Officer: Did you know the speed limit is 25 miles per hour? Esprit Driver: Yes, but I wasn't planning on staying out that long.

Your headlamp motor's 'pucks' may be falling apart. This video shows how to replace them, they are available from many sources. M100 $ Stevens Esprit have the same motors. Actual disassembly starts at ~5:25

LOL, "A friend in need is a friend, indeed" Does your ECON light in the RH row of idiot lights come on at KOEO now? Key on Engine Off The ECON light is really dim so look carefully (preferably during a solar eclipse or during a New Moon). If no ECON, you may have fried the Engine Overspeed Module. That is located on the far left of the coil. Does the one in your car start with an A or B on the part number label? I think (from memory) that the white-green pump voltage wire goes through the EOM. Sent you a link to the schematics. +++++++++++++++ Just noticed something else in your first pic: The top two relays in the picture seem swapped. The gray case one is the double contact relay, that ALWAYS goes on the left. It is the only Double Contact relay in the coil box area. (Now that you mention it, the fan relays in the front trunk are double contact, too...make sure everything is 'in its place'.)

In your picture, did you reconnect the RPM relay on the left side, with the black base? Needs that connected to run. Also what is that blue fuse laying there? Verify that the wire-side connections to the fuel pump relays are not 'pushing away' when you plug the relays in. Do I see a silver connector falling out on the black wire of the RH relay??? For that matter, those are original 32 year old relays. They carry a lot of current, night be wise to replace them. Sent you a PM.

As the parts call-out implies, I believe that those are the little 'wedges' that eliminate any gap between the window frame and door body.

It looks to me as if Greg's '89 is USA (North American) spec. So, it should have GM MPFI. These MPFI cars don't normally have issues with vapor lock. That said, at this point in their lives the fuel pumps are all getting a bit 'tired'. I'd start with a replacement fuel pump. Good Practice, even without any other indication of issue. Fuel Pump AC Delco EFP241 (60-90psi, 40Gal/hr) 85-89 Camaro, 88-89 Corsica + Beretta, 88 Buick Regal Fuel Pump Carter (Federal-Mogul) P74006 1986 Buick Skylark V6 3.0L Fuel Pump AC Delco 6443225 Rock Auto's ACDelco EP241 pump costs ~$60 USD. The Carter equivalent is about $5 less. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=90646&cc=1035694&jsn=814

I think there are 3 each side of those. I know the Lotus parts guys in the USA sell them, don't know about ROW sources.

Window rail slide, Nylon Window Slider GM (Chevy) 9666748 "Roller WD 263D."