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CarBuff

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CarBuff last won the day on April 5 2020

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  • Birthday October 13

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  • Name
    Atwell Haines
  • Car
    '88 Esprit/Bosch FI
  • Location
    NJ, USA

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  1. I KNOW there is a difference, so following. The LH frontmount takes a LOT more torque from the drivetrain. The thing is, did SJ wrongly mark them, or do theirs have a different rubber L>R?
  2. Lou got advice from another USA owner in Florida. Helped to get them together.
  3. You had me going, thinking this was a USA Bosch FI question.😙 Turned out to be a GM MPFI SE.🤪 Any possibility that those connectors enabled the heated rear screen on the hatch? Verify with the wire colors. If that is the case, the gas struts should have terminals incorporated. (Although some owners had eliminated the connectors by using aftermarket gas struts) If a North American spec model, some might enable the CHMSL. (Center High Mounted Stop Lamps)
  4. Hey Lou, Glad to hear you are working on your Esprit again. We were near your house a few weeks ago, looking at the autumn leaves. Not sure if these apply to the S2, but take a look at the Crystal Princess Parts Substitution Page. http://www.drhess.net/crystal_princess.htm#Parts Substitutions I have had issues with width as well as length, but if you explain to the guys at NAPA what you are facing, I'm sure they would let you swap improper or difficult to fully tighten belt with the next size up. PM or email me and I'll take a picture of my Turbo (but ONLY if you help me rake leaves, LOL) Maybe this pic will help
  5. It is worth mentioning that your car has a Renault transmission, not the Citroen one fitted to North American cars.
  6. That stiffness at the pivot is what I found with our car, as well. Glad you fixed it before you burned out a motor. Repeated applications of brake cleaner followed by penetrating oil freed up the pivot mechanism for us. (Of course, a lubricant is the final step) I cleaned the other window's mechanism in the car, got it to work much more easily. (Glad there are drain holes in the doors, LOL) ++++++++++++ I posted an entire blog about window motors on LotusTalk.
  7. I like the tire valve cap solution. Would it work even BETTER if you used Lotus-Logo caps? 😇 I have used cabinet door bumpers on friend's Esprits but the adhesive isn't robust in the heat of auto interiors, has always required an additional drop of Krazy Glue to stay for any length of time. The valve cap solution overcomes that.☺️ I've also cleaned my door switches too. Wrote an article for the local Lotus club FWIW. Door switch repair.pdf
  8. In my experience, it is the mustache-shaped CAR CONTACTS in the base of the receptacles that become loose. (This applies to the relays, plugs, and jacks throughout the car, as well.) So, the module could still have plenty of life remaining. 😙 A scribe or straight dental pick can be used to tighten the 'mustache'. It helps to hold the base's wires whenever you plug in the relay or module. A tight connection can be pushed out the back of the socket.🥵 +++++++++++++++ I had intermittents in these lights a few years ago, just like you. Changed the overhead and door bulbs to LED, and they all worked, either door. BUT: the door lights stayed on dimly after that. (Only noticed a month later, when I walked into the dark garage) So, I reinstalled the incandescent bulb in the overhead, and VIOLA! everything now works as expected.☺️
  9. The light delays are "controlled" (I use that term loosely 😇 ) by the Interior Lamp Delay Module (on the 'relay bar' in the frunk, the module is closest to the bulkhead) Reseat the module, look for loose connectors in the base, as usual. EDIT: The module is on sheet 17.03A #15 if you have the Parts List. If you have installed any LED bulb that can confuse the module due to the low resistance.
  10. I thought we were all installing DAB antennas hidden in the header or A pillar? I did...😇
  11. How much money do you want to spend? The Nikasil liners (and matched pistons) were PRICEY, the last time I looked. The Alunox headers are nice but be aware that buyers have required some 'fettling' since Euro and US cars use different configurations. Don't know if Alunox has noted these differences yet. One thing you are strongly encouraged to do is install the Renault-style input shaft bearing (requires some enlargement of the crankshaft bore at the rear) Are you in contact with any members of LOON? (Lotus Owners Of the North, the nearby Lotus club) They could probably give you personal assistance. Try not to run the engine if you have a black timing belt that is old. (The blue Nissan belts are MUCH more robust, but more difficult to properly tension.)
  12. Anytime I pour fluids into my cars, I SHAKE the bottle for at least 30 seconds. No issues (and at one time, I scored a closeout on Mobil1 15W-50 that lasted me 8 years of yearly changes).
  13. That te.com link was just for education. Yes, 1/8" = 0.125" In 1985 Lotus was using a mixture of SAE and metric sizes, which is why I suggested bringing that spare with you. Who knows what the exact size of the connectors were? 🤪 Back in the day, they were commonplace. A LOT more common than Lucas Bullet connectors... Maybe you could cut a few connectors off the Spitfire? 😇 ++++++++++++++++ What is the issue with the pictured plug? If it has loosened (enlarged) connectors, a strategic squeeze with a scribe would tighten them up without needing to replace. (On USA cars, though, identical connectors were used in the high-amperage fuel pump circuits, and they would literally burn up!)
  14. In the USA, we can buy those connectors from hardware or home stores. Any opportunity for a local purchase in Holland? Bring that one spare with you for comparison, of course. A quick Google found several sources...as well as different size designations. So, be aware. Here's a USA listing: https://www.te.com/usa-en/plp/standard-circular-connectors/Y30jJ.html
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