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  1. How much money do you want to spend? The Nikasil liners (and matched pistons) were PRICEY, the last time I looked. The Alunox headers are nice but be aware that buyers have required some 'fettling' since Euro and US cars use different configurations. Don't know if Alunox has noted these differences yet. One thing you are strongly encouraged to do is install the Renault-style input shaft bearing (requires some enlargement of the crankshaft bore at the rear) Are you in contact with any members of LOON? (Lotus Owners Of the North, the nearby Lotus club) They could probably give you personal assistance. Try not to run the engine if you have a black timing belt that is old. (The blue Nissan belts are MUCH more robust, but more difficult to properly tension.)
  2. Anytime I pour fluids into my cars, I SHAKE the bottle for at least 30 seconds. No issues (and at one time, I scored a closeout on Mobil1 15W-50 that lasted me 8 years of yearly changes).
  3. That link was just for education. Yes, 1/8" = 0.125" In 1985 Lotus was using a mixture of SAE and metric sizes, which is why I suggested bringing that spare with you. Who knows what the exact size of the connectors were? ðŸĪŠ Back in the day, they were commonplace. A LOT more common than Lucas Bullet connectors... Maybe you could cut a few connectors off the Spitfire? 😇 ++++++++++++++++ What is the issue with the pictured plug? If it has loosened (enlarged) connectors, a strategic squeeze with a scribe would tighten them up without needing to replace. (On USA cars, though, identical connectors were used in the high-amperage fuel pump circuits, and they would literally burn up!)
  4. In the USA, we can buy those connectors from hardware or home stores. Any opportunity for a local purchase in Holland? Bring that one spare with you for comparison, of course. A quick Google found several well as different size designations. So, be aware. Here's a USA listing:
  5. I have heard of audio installers that have totally messed up ground connections. EG, they thought the foil around the engine bay was a proper 'earth'. I have also heard reports that GOOD installers have run bespoke heavy-=duty ground wiring around to the earth connection in the LH A pillar.
  6. I think its better to go by miles in the Esprit. The gas gauge suffers from 'mood swings' a LOT!ðŸĪŠ (Our '88 has the VDO gauge) Of course, the mileage you get per tank is going to vary quite a bit too...those last 3 - 4 gallons take FOREVER to top up, especially in locales with vapor recover systems on their pumps. ðŸĨĩ I remember the low fuel light coming on at a Road Atlanta HPDE after one session. I must have been turning some wild G-forces on RH curves...when stationary, the gauge was 3/4 full. Hey, if the engine runs, you can't be out of fuel yet.
  7. You need to verify that the Bosch Frequency Valve is working. This is what adjusts the mixture during a run. The FV should emit a BUZZ. If it works, then you can monitor the mixture Duty Cycle with a dwell meter. Should be 45 - 55 duty cycle, with the lower number = rich. Everything is spelled out in Section LD of the Service Notes.
  8. Just as a reminder, Stevens Esprits need to have a positive airflow through the cabin, otherwise they will suck fumes in through the engine bay. That means, ALWAYS travel with the HVAC fan ON. And be aware that flipping up the rear of the roof panel will bring in engine bay fumes. Otherwise you and your passengers will need this accessory: 😇
  9. As Scott said, check with RD Enterprises in PA or JAE Parts in CA. Tell them you want the braided look. I found some vendors with an Amazon search for 'braided fuel line' but I don't know the diameters you need. Or, if it looks authentic enough for you.
  10. An '84 USA spec would have carbs. If the car was sitting a long time before sale, you may need to open the carbs and inspect. Often, the jets clog up and the mixture at various RPMs becomes wrong. I have also seen bad carb floats, even broken float pivots. Verify that the carbs are clean, then have a specialist balance them with a manometer. ALSO check or replace the fuel pump. If original, replace it with an original from SJSportscars. There are Service Manuals floating around the ether if you don't have one.
  11. If the cap is old, I'd either test it (auto parts stores in the USA offer free loaner cap and cooling system testers) or just replace it. Of course, have a good look at the mating surfaces of the cap where the rubber contacts them.
  12. I wouldn't pay extra for a 'classic' battery. Instead measure the available depth, width, and height, and note the orientation of the terminals. Then look up the dimensions on a battery supplier site (I use Interstate Batteries, below, in the USA) and find the equivalent size and CCA rating that you desire. (The more CCA, the better, of course) I don't know if the UK has their own size or group designations. But, I do know that most varieties of G-car place its battery in that smallish well in the boot floor. That is why I didn't just tell you which battery size I use in our 1988 Stevens. I found this UK site that shows the dimensions of your present battery. Apparently, the LP075 is equivalent.
  13. Sorry for the late reply... Later Stevens 4-cyl Esprits had two piece cables (with an extra 'joint' halfway in). Not sure of the timeframe, but I bet that an '89 SE would have a single core from the trans to the binnacle, as our Citroen-trans '88 does. Maintenance simply entails pulling the core out (best done on our '88 from the binnacle end). Assure that the core's ends are 'square' and not rounded. Wipe the core clean. Obtain some drip type graphite lubricant (Lock-Ease is a common brand), wherein the liquid carrier evaporates after a while, leaving the dry graphite that will not attract more dirt. You can use any leftovers on throttle cables and door/ignition locks. Cover your instrument panel leather (the lubricant will stain), then coat the cable as you insert it, turning, pushing, and pulling it as you go. On the Citroen trans , best practice is to connect the cable to the instrument FIRST, then the transmission.
  14. Since you are pulling the transmission, don't forget to install the heavy duty input shaft circlip. Call JAE and ask. I would also recommend replacing the crownwheel bearings (output shaft). The original 'Polish Bearings' are decidedly weak.
  15. We broke our original HT leads soon after we got the car. That was around 1994. 😙 At that time we bought Magnecor leads (they had different lengths depending on year of Esprit IIRC). They are still running fine, amazingly enough. 😍
  16. In our polluted neck of the USA (NYC area) we have only been able to buy E10 since around the mid-1990s. As mentioned, USE YOUR CAR enough and you won't have any worries. (We haven't, and our Esprit is set to turn 100,000 miles soon) Any NEW rubber that you buy will surely be resistant to Ethanol.
  17. One thing to remember is that whatever coolant you use needs to be compatible with both aluminum (aluminium) 😇 and brass (used in the original radiators) I lie awake at night thinking about these things, too....
  18. Still no main beams? You either need to flash or honk at slow traffic to get them out of the way...â˜đïļ
  19. And...that no one has tried to swap the dual-contact for the single contact relay fitments?
  20. No personal experience, but Barry Spencer, the well-known Esprit expert on the west coast of the USA likes them (as do some other owners). Barry did a Group Buy of the 123 dizzies s a few months ago, and set them to his 'best specifications' for whatever Esprit/Jensen they were destined for.
  21. In our smog-encrusted locale of New Jersey, USA (NYC metro area), we have run E10 since the late 1990s. The key is to drive your car regularly so that the fuel circulates and does not cause issues from sitting in one place. (It's a tough job, but a task that is worthwhile!) 😇 Whenever you do a repair, replace all the fuel lines you can reach with modern rubber lines.
  22. That's why, after removing and cleaning our ROV, I vowed to be 'busy that day' if any of my Esprit friends wanted help with theirs. 👀 Despite placing a magnetized blanket under it, I must have lost 10 kilos of washers into the bodywork while doing the job. Should have realized that this needed to be yet another Engine Out Job! 😅
  23. I have to ask (again) Do ROW GM MPFI Esprits have a roll over valve in the RH sail panel? I KNOW that USA models do. I have seen the ROVs get sticky from long periods of Esprit dis-use. That can cause the type of intermittent issue you are experiencing. (Our car had an idle issue on hot starts and that is what the issue turned out to be.) I was fighting the issue (which only happened maybe one a MONTH) for over three years...
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