free hit
counters
CarBuff's Content - The Lotus Forums Jump to content

CarBuff

Basic Account
  • Content Count

    640
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Everything posted by CarBuff

  1. ^^^ Reminds me of our road rally days. But, only after an off-course 'shunt'.
  2. X2. Using Lotus Tool #2 inspect the weep hole under the pump. No coolant = leave that job for the next cam-belt replacement. PS: with an HCI, you need to remember that you need replacement copper washers on-hand for the banjo bolts on the fuel lines. Manifold removal is a lot more intense with Bosch FI.
  3. Yeah, easier to remove the intake manifold. But, if you are the optimistic type, remove the rectangular plenum on the right side of the intakes, and feel around during your attempt. You won't be able to see anything. Lotus Tool #2 (a mirror) will help but your hands will block the view. Also, note that the original hose isn't straight, it has a slight offset or 'kink'. So, get the bespoke part from one of the US suppliers. This knowledge assists when re-fitting the replacement, so that it can more easily be lined-up. Might also be two different diameters on each end. Can't remember ALL my Lotus nightmares...
  4. Once upon a time, Dave Bean Engineering in California sold those caps with a Lotus logo on them, if you desire that 'upgrade'. I always remove the caps before allowing tire (tyre) stores to fit new rubber, as they break 'em by pushing them OUTWARD instead of INWARD.
  5. Agree with the mechanic. Check it as he says. Oil would need to be GUSHING out, for the level to drop enough to affect engine operation.
  6. The header tank level sensor MIGHT be sticky from being low on coolant. You should remove it and clean it out (free it up). Remember, it takes 5 - 6 drive cycles to purge air (tho' it sounds as if you are losing coolant somewhere).
  7. Tell us in a few days if it is truly solved. Bet you will always verify that the door is shut from now on. (Just like many S4 - S4s owners who walked away without looking to make sure their brake lights turned off!)
  8. As @AndyPG said, a new battery should still hold a charge if TOTALLY 'topped-up". It may not last as long, but it should STILL retain the 12.5 VDC charge. It is obvious, now, that the door ajar drained the battery. If it won;t maintain 12.5 after resting overnight, bring it back for a replacement.
  9. 11V disconnected indicates a spent battery. A fully-charged battery should maintain at least 12.5VDC after being fully charged the day before. I'd spring for a new battery, but check the voltage after a drive and again the next morning. If a new battery goes below 12.5, you need to look for parasitic drain. Lots of videos on the 'net regards how to do that.
  10. Perhaps. As I said, the cooling system usually requires topping off after any work. Even when properly bled through the vent on the top left corner of the radiator, the coolant level still drops for a few drive cycles as air is purged. When the system leaks, you often will not see a drip because when the circulating coolant finally DOES warm up the piping, the leak stops. But a tell-tale streak will remain. Should ALWAYS be some coolant in the bottle. Service Notes say to fill half way up, cold. The level will be higher when warm. Due to the fact that the overflow was pressurized until the adaptation of the plastic Peugeot header tank about the time of the S4s, you should never open the cap HOT. There are a lot more hoses on an SE. The charcoal canister and purge valve (which is another GM part that is likely to fail) are in the RR corner of the engine bay. The easiest way to service it is to lift the trunk floor. Lotus used the same vinyl tubing to connect it as they did with the line over the window. Don't forget the vapor lines to the rollover valve in the RH sail panel, too. Another source of fuel smell on GM MPFI cars were the gaskets around the fuel cap necks. Here is what I mean by lifting the trunk floor:
  11. Your teacup seems dangerously close to the work site.
  12. If Freescan says 82C. then simply accept that the gauge reads 2C. low. Even driving spiritedly, it should maintain a steady indication in traffic. And I believe it is doing that. PS: Good luck getting the cabin ALDL port working reliably... If you succeed, tell us how!
  13. That is funny.... Now that you found the REAL culprit look at the pressurized reservoir at the left-rear of the trunk (boot). If it looks OK (up to the 'waist' on a cold engine), take it out (2, 10mm nuts & washers) and scrub the deceiving scum off the inside so that you can see how full the coolant level REALLY is. It will probably require 5 - 6 drive cycles to purge all the air from the cooling system, so keep checking the reservoir... Look for tell-tale signs of coolant leakage. Often the system leaks up front near the rad, as pressure builds before the coolant warms the pipes. Look for streaks (or drips).
  14. I bet @MikieP is sorry his Esprit doesn't have a voltage gauge like older cars!!!! BTW what is JAE sending these days? The original Valeo brand, or the better Bosch A49LX?
  15. Only 12.5 with the charger hooked up? Hmmm All my chargers 'maintain' our batteries at ~13.5. A bad battery will drop below 12 after 24 hours off the charger. You say the alternator is one year old, what brand please? Might be something as 'easy' (note the quotes) as a loose alternator V-belt. When the engine bay temps increase, it gets loose and drives the alternator slower. The last two loose belts I had did not signal with squealing as they did in the past, I'm thinking that belts nowadays are made of stuff that remains quiet.
  16. Common issue with Stevens headlights. Your roller pods inside have disintegrated. On this side of the pond, the nylon rollers are readily available from aftermarket suppliers This is one of the first vendors, I believe they have instructions if you want to see. http://rodneydickman.com/product_info.php?products_id=363 PS @Bibs please merge the two Topics.
  17. You can often find alternate ignition parts by referencing "1980 MG-B". They used Lumention ignitions also. I know that the distributor cap & rotor are the same.
  18. We replaced our vinyl tubing with fuel hose in the early 2000s: so far, so good. We used smaller outer-diameter hose over the bulkhead window so the carpet would lay 'flat' as original. This necessitated the creative inclusion of a few right-angle reduction fittings, as the smaller hose would not bend as readily as the original vinyl, plus it's smaller I.D. wouldn't fit on the original ends. At least, our solution didn't droop down behind the quarter windows as the factory fitted hose did. They painted the hose with a Sharpie to make it less visible behind the glass. Are you saying you do this on a regular basis? This decade's answer to deteriorating tubing is to use gasoline-resistant Tygon, which bends easier than fuel hose and has thinner walls. https://www.mcmaster.com/tygon-tubing/for-use-with~acetone/ Has anyone fitted Tygon and experienced failure?
  19. Again, I am most familiar with Turbos. I know the components are different. But Lotus saw fit to include a diode in those circuits. Compare this to your diagram.
  20. If you are from NJ, USA you are expected to USE THE HORN! (Now that you mention it, those relays could overheat, too!)
  21. Our '88 will keep the lights illuminated, and the pods up, as long as you hold the stalk towards you. On our car, there is a Pod Delay Module incorporated into the flash circuit. (located under the dash in G-Turbos) Does your test setup incorporate that? Is there a PDM in your S1 or in S2s?
  22. Replace. Here is our stripped spline. I can't find the pics of the 'new' used spline I installed.
  23. Are you positive that the fuel pumps run when you are trying to start the engine? (I'm not talking about the initial KOEO pressurization I mentioned) Once the engine starts cranking, the RPM relays will not energize the fuel pumps unless they 'sense' ignition pulses. Often, the capacitors in those 'analogue' RPM relays fail after many years. So you get that initial 5 second run until the pressure bleeds down. Unplug the RPM relays, give them a gentle shake. You should NOT hear any internal rattling! (Crude troubleshooting method, but effective, LOL) Don't ever swap the RPM relays. If you think they could have been switched inadvertently, verify correct position by looking up the part numbers. The Cold Start Injector is only momentary at normal room temp. I bet that the symptoms remain the same even if you unplug it.
  24. For the faint of heart, just unbolting the trunk floor and tying it up to the hatch gets it out of the way. We removed the square plenum to allow extra reach, and to assist in viewing what we were up against. Can't wait for the next installment.
  25. Don't the inspectors look for original equipment (CARB-certified) parts? Have heard SO MUCH over the years about the difficulties of emissions inspection. I have HCI-owning friends that could advise.
×
×
  • Create New...