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Everything posted by CarBuff

  1. Should be 2.25L in the 'box when level.(Slow drip out of the proper bolt on the side) So, add another 0.75L. (Simple? Not if you suffer from Math Anxiety)
  2. agk DID do a relearn. We don't know the TPS readings (he DOES have Freescan).
  3. Perhaps, try TWO lotus gaskets? In the USA I can go into a parts store and ask for a thermostat gasket for a 283 C.I. 'small block' Chevy V8 (very common here). But, in the Netherlands...Hmmmm.
  4. Pack it well, @Paul Coleman ! They DO break.
  5. Our '88 (Stevens) has a low vacuum switch near the servo that illuminates the BRAKE warning light on the dash. I once knocked a fitting askew over the gas tank and the light went on. Not to mention, the vacuum pump started complaining (noise). That was where the pipe split (heater to one side, boost transducer on the other)
  6. The vacuum system is easy to 'half-split'. Minimum vacuum is 18hg. at various points. Plug the lines half through, see if that makes a difference; go forward or backward from there using the diagram under the hatch. If your car has the external vacuum pump, common trouble points are the rubber T near the front of the engine; and the elbows on the hard plastic lines. The ones located under the dash (heater controls), and also plumbed over the RH gas tank and sail panel have been known to have duff sealing capabilities.
  7. "Some of our roads are quite bumpy here" Same here in the USA. In fact, I want one of these stickers for my Daily Driver. (Sorry for the off-topic post, had to share. )
  8. The Bosch FI engines ('86 - '88 in North America and Australia) only used mechanical advance. The vacuum capsule was only used to increase engine speed during warm up.
  9. In the USA, a good place to check is a dealer or repair shop for RVs (recreational vehicles, "caravans", etc). Or, a shop that converts ambulances... These vehicles often use custom-length seatbelts. A USA owner near me tried to replace a G-car belt with one from a Stevens car and they were different FWIW, if you were considering buying one from a breaker.
  10. This is a straightforward repair. I THINK some folks used a sealer on new o rings, too. (Are we all afraid? LOL) It is always a good idea to use some sort of lubricant on newly fitted o-rings during assembly. Don't use anything that will affect rubber (petroleum based stuff is a no-no.) This stuff in the link below is specifically for the process, but I just use a thin smear of Sil-Glyde. I'm sure there is something similar in your locality.
  11. Someone MIGHT have the 'boxed set' of Citroen Special Tools for loan on your side of the pond. I know of two sources in the USA.
  12. Be careful when sourcing exhaust systems from the UK. Many will differ from USA spec. (eg, the tailpipe exits at the left side, or the catalyst/EBPV is different, or the piping diameter is different) The factory Bosch (Langford) exhaust is a 3" system. And, it is stainless steel. Sounds good. While you have the drivetrain out, fit a heavy-duty input shaft circlip (available from JAE or Harry Martens) to the transmission...
  13. CarBuff

    Turbo removal

    The bolts will be TIGHT from all the heat cycles. And access will be limited. One friend welded up a 90 degree wrench by cutting it in half and re-welding it at a right angle. Good Luck...
  14. If my carpets looked that good, I wouldn't fit my seats to the car either!
  15. Another thought upon re-reading the Original Posting: There is no factory Blow Off Valve on an '88. Did a previous owner fit one? Might be a good idea to block it from actuating during your troubleshooting. I've seen a few BOVs that have stuck and malfunctioned.
  16. That is not a valid Lotus part number for the EOM. You are looking for a number more like 'A082M6374F' or better, 'B082M6375F'. BUT, you may be onto something with the EBPV (potato valve). Many owners wired those open so verify that the valve is in the 'correct' (open) position. JAE Parts in the USA sells a spacer to eliminate the valve.
  17. Engine Overspeed Module. Look for it on the left side of the coil 'box' (rear engine wall). Does the part number start with an A or B? PS: Yes it DOES work by cutting power to the fuel pumps, can be a violent experience.
  18. When we refreshed our engine, we needed to actually start it to obtain oil pressure. My advisor (who had rebuilt several Esprit engines) told me that, but I didn't believe.
  19. Book spec for vacuum pump is 18 HG. Our pump used the small fuel filter to muffle the sound for about 12 years with no operational effects. I did an engine-out engine/gearbox refresh and changed it out then. The pump cross-ref is General Motors' 7844038. NAPA sells them as item # 641006. Some fettling is required to make them work. (As usual, with Lotus repairs)
  20. Wow, does your Esprit have glass-tube fuses? Our '88 already has the blade type. UK glass tube fuses were rated by peak amperage. The '17A' type probably said '35A' on them. A 20 amp modern fuse (continuous rating) in the 17A spots would work fine. I'd put a 10A in the 5A spot. (Since my car is newer I don't know how yours was wired, might be different for your car anyway.)
  21. Yup, a small fuel filter clamped to that hose will quiet it down without affecting performance of the vacuum pump. Replacement vacuum pumps are available from Rock Auto in the USA. The new ones don't even have an 'exhaust' port.
  22. Make a note for next time.... Our USA Esprit guru always says he always paints the A136 or 5188 on with a brush. You don't need much. Yes, it IS an anaerobic sealant, it sets up in the absence of air.
  23. ^^^ That is fine for the intake valves. Are you using the same specification for both intake & exhaust? Because the exhaust specs are 0.010 - 0.012, and they will tighten over time. I set them to the .012 end.
  24. If it makes you feel better, about 25 years ago a branch blew across the road I was driving on. Like a straw through lumber by a hurricane, it poked a hole through my front oil cooler and caused a sudden loss of pressure. (Not a scratch on the car otherwise!) Drove about 90 seconds with no pressure, and a meter-wide puddle appeared under the car when we found a safe pull-over spot. 20 years and 50,000 miles later, when we refreshed our engine, the con & main bearings were found to be in excellent shape. So no harm was done.
  25. USA cars do have that module. On our '88 it delays pod retraction by only a second or two. Can't remember if the delay module keeps the lights on, though. Still, worth the time spent to reseat all the colorful modules and relays under the bonnet. (Always support/hold the wiring underneath when doing this to ensure that socket connectors are not pulled away.) Some contact cleaner might be worthwhile to use as well, since Tim's car was sitting dormant for a time.
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