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Everything posted by CarBuff

  1. I can confirm the brakes & calipers are 80s Celica Supra. But what are the uprights you mention? Do you mean the upper control arms? (They are Spitfire parts, modded for adjust-ability on 93+ Esprits AFAIK) Lower control arms are bespoke Lotus after '85.
  2. Here's hoping the issue is sorted. FWIW, the aluminum coolant pipes can corrode a bit, leading to leakage as the engine is warming up. (The pressure builds, the coolant leaks, until the pipes warm up & expand) Any evidence of coolant drips encourages a look-see. Try to tighten the clamps...but if you ever disassemble a hose/pipe, apply a non-hardening sealer like Hylomar Blue to fill in the nooks & crannies.
  3. This is true, which is why folks that use CLR need to flush it out of the system after they use it. It HAS worked well on many makes of cars who encounter clogged heater matrices. (On the Esprit, never shut the heater control all the way off...with the pointer at the 5 o'clock position you will get some coolant flow, but no heat on warm days.)
  4. The original 'green' coolant is prone to developing a crust throughout the system, for sure. There are several opinions about which coolant to use. Whatever, it needs to be compatible with both the aluminum (aluminium πŸ˜‡ ) engine components and the original brass radiators. Some owners use a small bucket of CRL (a bathroom cleaner that removes Calcium, Lime, and Rust) and circulate it through the CC, heater matrix, and radiator with an electric drill pump. It is important to flush this stuff out, however! I'm sure there is a similar product on your side of the pond if you can't buy it through Amazon. +++++++ The test for CC effectiveness is to take the car on a 30 minute run. (Its not the speed, its the RPMs) Then immediately put your hand on top of the chargecooler. If you yell OUCH and your hand burns, the system is plugged somewhere.πŸ₯Ά If you can leave your hand on the CC for 10 - 20 seconds with only minor annoyance, the impeller IS working and the coolant is circulating. We have had chargecooler pipe that develop pinholes near the left front. Alternately, you can remove the largish fill plug and actually watch the coolant flow, but sometimes those cannot be removed easily (dissimilar metal syndrome). Assume your 1990 car has separate CC and engine coolant header tanks?
  5. FIRST: That plastic tank in the left side of the hatch is SUPPOSED to be pressurized. It is common to get air pockets in the system after cooling system components are replaced. Check the (cold) header and pressurized overflow for the next 5 - 10 drive cycles. Don't panic unless the coolant level continues to drop. Some time at higher RPMs helps to purge air pockets, for sure. Its FUN, as well. 😁 ++++++++ Watchpoints are a bad cap or rough mating surface on the overflow. (Some overflow bottles have a metal contact ring that rusts...preventing achieving proper pressure) Cold fill should be at the 'waist' or center of the plastic reservoir tank. There should be a vinyl elbow & hose at the top to relieve excess coolant, if the coolant expands too much. Regards chargecooler impellers: If that system was inop for a long time, flow may be blocked. In this case, even a new impeller will not turn. Fit an electric CC pump (from a Prius), you will be better off.
  6. At the age of the GM fuel pump (and all the mentions of failures) I'd just replace the darn thing if you suspect ANYTHING fuel-pump-pressure related.
  7. Another strategy is to un-bolt the slave cylinder while bleeding, let it hang down with the bleeder valve on top. That way you won't have any captive air pockets in the slave.
  8. CarBuff


    LotusEspritWorld is another good source of information and buyer's guides for 'noobs'.
  9. CarBuff


    Where are you located? (fill out your PROFILE) Equipment varied by locality and year. You may be faced with a decision: turbo or N/A (normally aspirated) If you are in North America, the '86 & '87 had Bosch FI.
  10. Hi Gavin! You aren't only crazy (for owning an Esprit) but you must be blind, too! πŸ˜πŸ˜‡ <just kidding> The oil temp switch on our USA car shows a Dowty washer sealing it. Sheet 17.06A #14 of the 88 - 92 parts list. 17.07A # 22 has a notation on the oil sender to use Permabond A131 to seal between the sender and block.
  11. A rubber brake line that swells on the inside, preventing the caliper from releasing, can overheat a wheel, too. πŸ™„
  12. Properly installed dampers should NOT affect ride height, only springs. (see comments above) At one point in our ownership, we DID swap springs & struts side-to-side to even out suspension height. Did that on a friend's S4s as well. Be aware that the bodies are NOT symmetrical. You need to compare L & R side distance to the ground at the front frame, should be 170 mm on each side. Measuring wheel arch height will lead you to false conclusions.πŸ™„ Our '88 still rides on the original suspension (I soak all the rubber in silicone spray to keep it supple, while waiting for engine oil to drain)
  13. No answers? The brass OEM radiators can be re-cored. Of course, in today's 'throw-away' society, many shops just want you to replace them. As a result, most of the radiator repair shops have gone belly-up. πŸ€₯ A farm or construction equipment business might know of radiator companies that could do the job. If your cooling system is running hot rather than leaking, the issue MIGHT be junk blocking the airflow. Here was our radiator after about 50,000 miles
  14. Right, those should not move...just twist. BUT you said you lubricated them. Your sound DOES seem to be that of the ARB moving in the bushes.
  15. I'd try some silicone spray on ALL the front end bushings individually. That way you can help isolate the issue for those who have creaky joints in the future! The upper ball joints do not have grease fittings, but you can lubricate them by injecting chassis grease into the rubber boots, with a needle fitting on a grease gun. (I do that once a year) WD40 might deteriorate rubber bushings after a few years. If you don't have a silicone spray, try some Armor All.
  16. You need to investigate this, but there is a potential leak at the auxiliary (oil pump) housing on the forward/front/RH side of the engine, where it mates with the block. The mating surfaces have a large gap that needs to be filled. Easy to overlook, I did when I refreshed our engine. πŸ₯Ά Some folks create a gasket for this joint, I'll let @Sparky give you the details, my memory is a bit foggy after 10 years.
  17. Ran into the same problems with different fittings, on a friend's S4s. Our US vendor, JAE parts, next-day-shipped the adapters needed. Not the first time they had encountered this issue...
  18. TOPIC DRIFT ALERT! The original query was regards the oil pressure sender. πŸ™„ An 'open' circuit will cause the dash gauge to 'peg' towards the high end. So, a high resistance will cause higher readings than actual. Or, 'twitchy' readings. Our dash gauge has always been a bit spotty due to loose fitting spade connectors (a 'tradition' with Lotus wiring, even to this day). What really calmed ours down was re-crimping and soldering the right-angle wiring connectors. (Easier said than done with the limited access) Good Luck... PS We installed our mechanical oil pressure test gauge right at the turbocharger. More room there. You can see the twitch in this video.
  19. Not familiar with the SJ part, but a few years ago I needed to replace our washer pump motor. A locking collar and O-Ring held it in place. A common one from an auto parts store fit, with minimal 'fettling'.
  20. Look CAREFULLY for 'coolant trails' that show leakage. Often, a loose jubilee clasp will only leak when pressure builds in a warming cooling system (but not when the circulating coolant is fully warmed). In the USA, you can often borrow cooling system pressure testers from auto parts stores, for free (after a deposit). Using the pressure tester decreases the amount of time spent in the Lotus Position. Pay attention to hoses clamped to aluminum components, like the pipe that go through the backbone chassis. These get 'bumpy' when they corrode, and will not seal well, unless you coat them with non-hardening Hylomar Blue.
  21. You want me to contact Dave or Tim for you?


    Both mostly 'hang out' on the TurboEsprit mailing list

    1. Marks


      Thank you very much!Β  I have contacted Jeff Flynn in St. Louis Park MN; and he may be able to help me in 3 weeks.Β  I appreciate all the help! MarkΒ 

    2. CarBuff




      BTW your picture SHOULD be of the Lotus-engineered LT-5 engine, LOL

      The LT5 Engine was used in 1990 to 1995 ZR-1 Corvettes.


  22. In that case you need to join the USA Lotus Club: Lotus, Ltd., to find local help. AFTER you replace the timing belt (and fogging the cylinders one last time) you can start it up. You might want to SEARCH here for procedures on building oil pressure after a long layup. Otherwise the delay in building pressure will cause sleepless nights.
  23. I bet the P.O. didn't check the Blinker Fluid on a regular basis, either. πŸ€ͺ
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