free hit
counters
Crescent Fresh's Content - Page 4 - The Lotus Forums Jump to content


Crescent Fresh

Basic Account
  • Content Count

    121
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Crescent Fresh

  1. As some of you are aware, I have about had it with the brake system on this car. I already have the Wilwood calipers on the car, and the Wilwood master cylinder and proportioning valve have arrived via UPS. I will be taking out the stock master cylinder (which is leaking), the accumulator and the pressure switch (both are suspected to be bad), and going to a regular brake system. My mechanic can't get to it until April 10th which gives me time to learn of hints and tips. Anyone ever did this before? I have searched the forums and found nothing. Is anything (besides ABS) tied in to
  2. Well, after further review it has been concluded that the pressure switch and accumulator are faulty. To add to the chaos, the master cylinder is leaking. I also found another good reason to have the handbrake on the door side....SO YOU CAN USE IT WHILST DOWNSHIFTING WHEN THE CRAPPIEST ABS SYSTEM LOTUS COULD GET THEIR HANDS ON FAILS COMPLETELY!!!!!!!! I'm going Wilwood Racing all around. The car already has the calipers and I have ordered the Master Cylinder and Knob Style Proportioning Valve. If I have to replace expensive items, I might
  3. Whenever I did leave it on like that for a minute (only once) the CEL came on...code IDLE SPEED. It hasn't did it today...yet. We're up to 9 trouble free starts!!!!
  4. I reset IAC on Freescan....hasn't happened in 7 starts....8th start will commence on the morrow.
  5. Just like the title says. Every 3 or 4 times I start this machine, the revs instantly rocket to 2500. Sometimes I can kill the engine and restart and it's happy again, but sometimes it's stubborn and I'm forced to drive it in this condition. It never fixes itself, so sometimes whilst driving I clutch-neutral-key off-key on-start-clutch and it's back down to about 1000. Thanks in advance, ninja's.
  6. I called the stealership and the guy said he thinks I need a new hydraulic something-or-other. Only $3100 USD. I am going to try and avoid this at all costs. If anyone knows where I can get a solenoid like the one mentioned above, I'd really appreciate it. Thanks
  7. The calipers are fine. When the key is turned "ON", the rears immediately apply a small pressure.
  8. Well, the tap trick failed....on both solenoids. I searched that part number and came up with nothing. Where can I get this part? Which one is for the rear brakes? I have to assume it's the rearward one on th master cylinder.
  9. 1. ABS light comes on about half the time. Sometime straight away, sometimes after 10 minutes, and sometimes stays off for a week. IT DOES NOT FLASH....EVER. 2. The BRAKE light doesn't come on (except when I use the parking brake). 3. As soon as I start the engine (or turn the ignition ON), regardless of ABS light status, the rear wheel brakes engage. Not hard, but enough to where it is very difficult to push the car in the driveway. They stay engaged until about 30 minutes after I kill the engine. The brake pads aren't worn down much, to give you an idea of how little pressure we're t
  10. The intestines of the Lotus cat fell apart, so I pulled them out (3 weks ago) and the car ran great. It didn't run well before I pulled the guts out, but the CEL was on when I first bought it (no turbo). The empty cat carcass is still there, albeit doing f--- all. Since my last post, I used coat hanger wire to force the EBPV open at all times. It is much better now (I get 1 bar but it drops off quite quickly), but since I already passed emissions I think I'm going to be a bad little boy and "fix the glitch".
  11. I went ahead and added a cat to the car to pass emissions, which it did with flying colours. CO emmissions were 0.01. Too low, I think. He left the old cat in place (before EBPV) and put the new one between EBPV and muffler. The car now runs like crap!!!! Turbo won't go beyond 0.5 bar. This was an immediate result. As I left the muffler shop the sluggishness begun. No CEL. No errors on Freescan. Is there a possibility that the cat is causing too much back pressure and closing the EBPV whilst in motion? Any other suggestions, comments, etc.etc...?
  12. Although this can be explained in a few words, it was an all day affair! We tightened the cam belt (was at 40, should be 95). Replaced the alternator belt while we were at it. Properly gapped the plugs. Pulled the guts out of the cat as they were bouncing around and had clogged the EBPV. Found a cut wire to the vacuum solenoid and plugged in the vacuum line in the rear....then the CEL went out, and I had full turbo, the chargecooler was cool, the heater and defroster started working, and I now have my dream car!!!! Lou is a great guy. His wife even showed up at the house with Rudys
  13. I think it's the bearing. The disc itself will slightly move when I push/pull on it. If it is the bearings, where can I get replacements? The rear wheel bearings aren't on the cross reference chart.
  14. I have to wait until tomorrow to get the drive shaft nut off (I'm not fighting traffic today). I did notice, however, that it's not the wheel, as the disc is also wobbling. Also, if the car has sat a while (in this case, 3 hours) then the disc will spin freely. If I start it up and run it (even in 1st with the rear end jacked up) for a few seconds, the disc is damn near impossible to turn.
  15. During my many failed emissions attempts, I noticed the left rear wheel wobbling on the dyno. I checked the lugnuts for tightness and they're OK. The wheels have a 1 or 2 cm spacer. Is there a way to tell whether it's the wheel or something more inten$e? Also, this car doesn't roll very well. In neutral, it is hard to rotate the rear wheels (brake off, rear end jacked up). I found these wheels online. Sounds cheap if they work... http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product...0003830/c-10101
  16. Tony, I'd rather stick with brands that I can research more. I like your idea of Magnaflow or Mandrel Bends. Anyone have more info on this topic?
  17. The guts of my cat broke apart and have now been removed (empty cat is still there). I am barely failing the emissions section of inspection. 1. Does a catalytic converter hurt performance and fuel economy? If so, will an unskilled driver notice the performance? 2. How important is the back pressure caused by the cat? 3. Any suggestions to what cat to buy and where to get it should I decide to get a new one? Thanks
  18. I tried RXP...FAILED. I also tried this other stuff that gets shot directly into the vacuum line....FAILED. I only drove 70 miles, though, so perhaps after another 100-200 all the crap will clean out. I am just barely failing. Anyone know how much a new cat is, and where to get one? If it doesn't affect performance and fuel economy much, I'd probably just buy one to avoid this circus every year.
  19. When I lived 30 miles north in Grayson County it was that way. I thought about using a P.O. box in Grayson County, but that would really open up an unwanted bag-o-worms with the insurance if the car cot vandalized at my house. So, aside from buying a new Cat or moving to a different country or Wisconsin, does anyone have any info on this topic that may help this vessel pass inspection in Collin County, Texas? Mainly, dropping the CO emissions down about 10-15% is what 'm after.
  20. FAILED!!! CO emissions were .87, and .75 is passing. Everything else was OK. I put inject cleaner in and went back 50 miles later only to read HIGHER on CO emissions (.91). I think I'll go for a 100-150 mile drive to see if the inject cleaner takes longer than I originally anticipated. Any other ideas, aside from buying a new Cat or moving to a different country?
  21. My catalytic converter lost its guts this week. I still have to pass the stupid state inspection which includes emissions test to make the car legal. Is there anything I can do to pass? 100 octane fuel, inject cleaner, etc..etc..?
  22. The cooling fans started working as designed after the correct relay was put in. The heater also started working. Still unsure how it was all related. Chargecooler was lukewarm after a good drive...much cooler than before. The car is now an absolute rocket.
  23. UPDATE: 1. Timing belt was slack (40). 2. Vacuum pump hose was off. 3. Relay rack in boot beside fuel pump reset had been tightened down so hard it cut the wires going to the vacuum relay. Soldering these, along with plugging the hose back to the vacuum pump, and getting the intestines of the catalytic converter out of the exhaust (exhaust was just about plugged up) fixed the heater (was [email protected]@king cold on the way to Quikr's), the the auto exhaust flap thingy, and the CEL.....then I got full boost, the chargecooler stays cool, and the car has woken up. We (Quikr and I) may never have fo
  24. I just noticed the title to this topic....I need a new keyboard!!!! Anyway, I found it. Now I'm having technical difficulties with my laptop/freescan combo. Fortunately, I'm going to Quikr's tomorrow and I have great confidence in him to sort it in 90 seconds or less. Thanks for all the info, guys. I just noticed the title to this topic....I need a new keyboard!!!! Anyway, I found it. Now I'm having technical difficulties with my laptop/freescan combo. Fortunately, I'm going to Quikr's tomorrow and I have great confidence in him to sort it in 90 seconds or less. Thanks for a
×
×
  • Create New...