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Qavion

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Qavion last won the day on July 19 2014

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About Qavion

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    LOTUS
  • Birthday December 12

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  • Name
    Ian Riddell
  • Car
    Ferrari F355 Spider

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  1. It's a pity you don't live in Australia... I'm giving my Quaife LSD away (didn't get around to fitting it before I had to sell the car). Is there anything in them which breaks down in time if not used? It's been sitting on the shelf for almost 3 years now.
  2. You haven't got to the best part yet... trying to refit it.... ugh.. Note the Service Manual warning about not turning the impellor the wrong way during installation. I changed at least 4 on my car... one didn't last 6 months. You don't know how much time and effort you'll save by switching to electric. If you're not in a hurry to put your car back together, I'd buy an electric kit ASAP and don't bother refitting the old pump. Yes, cleaning it is a pain. I sent mine away to be done professionally.
  3. It could be a clue. If there is nothing physically wrong with the throttle jacking mechanism and the hose to the throttle jack isn't collapsing when vacuum is applied and subjected to engine heat, the solenoid could be faulty and generating a code. The engine ECU may not know what is happening with the mechanism and hoses, but it does check the solenoid electrical circuit. There used to be ALDL plug to serial plug adaptors for old laptops, but now you can buy ALDL to USB.
  4. Unfortunately, Code 26 covers a lot of things: 26A: Radiator Fan Relay Wastegate solenoid Canister Purge Solenoid Check Engine Lights 26B: ROM relay (?) A/C Control Relay Engine Overheat Relay Throttle Jack Solenoid Relay Secondary Injectors I think Espritmon narrows the choice down to A or B, but I can't remember if it goes further than that. I think I've cleared a Code 26 before by resetting the plugs on the secondary injectors. Have you done a resistance check on the injectors? Cheers Ian.
  5. On later cars with airbags is it ok? I discovered it's not ok to do this on my new car. It latches the airbag light on (when the binnacle is refitted). Needed a computer to reset it. Cheers.
  6. Is the depth of the regulator case the same as the old one? Every time I bought a replacement, they seemed to get fatter and fatter. Fortunately, there is a cutout in the engine intake plenum to allow fitment (but the fit was getting tighter and tighter) Cheers Ian.
  7. I don't understand why they've drawn the diagram like that. My pipe comes up the "A" pillar and goes from right to left. The T-piece points the other way. The mode flap valve is visible from the footwell, if you look behind the centre console. The fresh air valve is probably only visible with the radio out.
  8. Isn't the black pipe in there the one for the MAP sensor? There's a T-piece under the dash. http://www.members.iinet.net.au/[email protected]/Lotus/VacuumLinesForLotusAir.GIF
  9. Strange... They are quite visible on Right Hand Drive Cars. You didn't see a rubber T piece under the dashboard? You can gently pull on the tubes to see if they have dislodged. I have a stereo amplifier above the passenger's feet. Perhaps the pipes are above that on your car?
  10. I then measured directly the resistance between the sender and the earth, and it's still around 360 ohms. Maybe you could scrape back the rust on the sender case and find a shiny bit of metal, then check the resistance between the case and the engine block? When I changed the knock sensor on my car which is in that area, I removed the plenum and oil filter, but there was still not enough room to swing a large enough spanner. When I removed some of the rubber pipes as shown in that photo, it did help. But I wouldn't discount Travis' suggestion of removing the starter motor if you have to. I drowned my knock sensor in WD40 (or something similar) for a few days, but in the end, I had to use a heat gun. But my old knock sensor was more like the one Travis' photo. I can't even imagine how hard it will be to remove yours. Those removed engine shots make the job look easy, but there isn't a lot of room in there. With the sender in that condition, I wouldn't hesitate changing it (even if it isn't the problem) Cheers
  11. I I wonder if tightening the 4th bolt warps the wood or veneer on the instrument binnacle and puts pressure on the dimmer knob.
  12. The picture is just a typical installation... Not a Lotus installation. Just something I found with Google. Actually, I realised I posted the wrong picture, but couldn't delete it from my message. My memory is a little hazy at the moment, but I recall some of the Lotus sensors have spade connections which get loose over time. I had a few problems like that with my old SE. Before you go pulling off the plenum, just reach underneath the plenum and feel around for the sensor/sender and see if one of the two wires haven't fallen off. If it's that type of connector, just crimp and clean the spade connector and reconnect it. Then recheck your voltages. Here's an old message thread with a picture of the sender. Hopefully you'll find something obvious.... and you can stop worrying ))) Cheers Ian.
  13. Ah... now I understand... I thought you were testing the internals of the gauge (but using the wire colours to indicate the terminals on the gauge). With the battery disconnected, what you might be reading between the black wire and the green wire is the combined resistance of all the other gauges (hooked up to earth (which may or may not be 1 ohm). Have you actually looked at the sender? Is the connector/s secure? I was just wondering why you were looking at the gauge first.
  14. P.S. How did you get your gauge needle to move? Which wires did you attach voltage and resistance to?
  15. Assuming it's like a normal oil gauge.... I would say you would get some resistance (coil). The diagram below is for the S4 (with a typical oil gauge in the upper left hand corner) Cheers Ian
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