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simon a-b

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Everything posted by simon a-b

  1. I'll do my due diligence on the distributor... How hard is it to take out? and will it only go back in one way? It barely idles so I wouldn't think the advance/retard mech could be the problem? The ballast resistor is in there, mine had been removed too so I added it again. Really annoying that it ran so well for so long and now this! the joys of the Lotus...
  2. Hi all, I've got lumenition on my S3 and have been chasing intermittent poor running for ages. I'm considering putting points back in to remove the lumenition as a potential cause of the fault. Any opinions on this course of action gladly received! When I bought the car it had points (from the car history retrofitted) and I removed them and fitted the lumenition. The car ran fine for many hundreds of kilometers, including use as a daily driver. The issue I now have is really poor running, caused by badly timed spark. When it's running poorly if I fit a timing light the timing is mostly spot on, then when it hits this intermittent issue it is all over the place. The distributor isn't moving so I suspect the module, but they're pretty expensive to swap out if I'm wrong (and being solid state I'd think they are unlikely to malfunction, more likely to work/not work)... so my thought of points again. I'll need a set of points, a condenser, and anything else? I remember having to set the gap on the points, they are not adjustable within the distributor relative to the shaft though from memory? They sit on a pin and then you adjust the gap, and time it as usual by unclamping the distributor and rotating the whole unit? I'll dig up some simple wiring diagrams of points ignition off the web, and hopefully do the swap later this week. Cheers, Simon
  3. Hi, use this link to go to my photobucket album: http://s471.photobucket.com/user/beamishprod/library/lotus the pics are on page 5 and 6 Cheers, Simon
  4. When I retrimmed my car I made a shallow tray that sits under the armrest, turning it into a cubby, good for wallet, phone etc.
  5. I did it by running the pump to drain the tanks, worked fine. I just used a long bit of fuel hose into a jerrycan, then turned ignition on and let the pump click away. Flow was strong and fast. I then left the lids off and the hoses unconnected while I did other stuff to let vapour vent.
  6. Was this very complicated to do? I guess you need a crank trigger? can you indicate costs? I'm sick of ignition related issues!
  7. simon a-b

    simon a-b

  8. I did the same... for rego the two outside mirrors were sufficient in Tasmania, so I never fitted the original mirror back on. I didn't like it for all the reasons stated already. I spent ages trying to find a small neat mirror to use, as I'm tall the mirror compromises my view so I'm happy without. The habit to check frequently means I know exactly what time it is when driving the car!
  9. Hi, just to hijack the thread, I've had an ongoing misfire issue that I think might be the lumenition module. How hard is it to do: The car had points when I bought it, I replaced them with the lumenition quite early on. I know these units normally work or don't... intermittent issues are not likely to be the actual module failing. However if it's relatively easy to revert to points and rule the lumenition out I might try it. The reason I suspect the lumenition is when the engine is misfiring, if you use a timing light you can see that it is sparking at fairly random times. Since the spark timing is determined by a mechanical/optical process in the distributor the random factor may be in the module. I've cleaned and tightened the three pole connector. For the trial, I'll need points, obviously, a condenser? and what else? Thanks, Simon
  10. I had mine re trimmed in situ, by a professional, not me. I was watching though, there is enough of a gap (or was on my car) between the glass and the front edge of the dash to push some material (mine was leather) down the gap. Looks perfect. As long as the material is flexible and you leave enough to push down the gap you should be OK.
  11. I got my refurbished one in from below. It was like those executive toys... you have to turn just right, twist just right... and like those toys when you get the sequence right it goes in easy with no straining. From memory it had to go quite high up on near the headers at one stage. Good sense of satisfaction when you get it. Good luck!
  12. I'm sure my oil filler is at the back of the motor... is mine wrong?
  13. Fantastic work John. I think the S3 fares a little better with less draw: that said after reading your post I will be upgrading my alternator soon. cheers Simon
  14. slotting the casting is a good idea, with weight saving too!
  15. I've found you have to persist with searching, there is a wealth of good info here. I found the two threads quite easily and commented on them so they should top the list. Once you're in a section, make sure you choose 'this forum only' beside the search box...
  16. here 's the good write up on the window relay mod
  17. I've been through and re-added the pics as the links had died...
  18. You will find the sil too high for comfort anyway. Worth looking into the relay mod for the window motors, put it on the list. Full current for the motors (by design) goes through the switch, which eventually melts the switch/results in very slow windows. Run a decent large wire with positive feed straight to the doors, and use the original wiring to switch a pair of relays. Instructions are in the forum...
  19. I did a thread on this a while ago, have a search through the forum. If the pic links don't work let me know and I'll post them again. Scary times with a stanley knife 'adjusting' the new trim, but otherwise a pretty simple job with great satisfaction value!
  20. The crossgate cable on my car goes through the hole cast into the bellhousing. As far as I know the bracket just means you can easily detatch the cable mechanism from the engine/gearbox without having to undo it from the gearbox and feed it back through the hole. When lifting the engine/gearbox it's much easier with the bracket I think. You will spend many fun hours adjusting the mechanism and shimming this and that. It's possible to get a really nice gearchange out of these cars. Also mine improved significantly with use!
  21. make sure you post plenty of pics of the install... and on my car the speedo is bang on at 120 (verified by police speedgun unfortunately), haven't verified by satnav which is a great idea.
  22. I didn't take any pics of this one unfortunately. I ended up putting my actuators in backwards as they fitted better like that, so they are mounted on the backing part of the door where the inner handle mechanism mounts. This avoided having to add a large bracket, but means that the buttons on the fob are back to front. No great problem, I thought reversing the polarity when I plugged the actuators into their loom would do it but it seems to be more complicated than that. I'll fix it up eventually. The actuators are on small pieces of aluminium angle, in line with the rod to the latch mechanism. You will spend hours fiddling to make it work properly!
  23. I fitted a universal kit, took ages to do but I think it was worth it. I also changed the door handles so that the passenger side doesn't have a keyhole (modernising vanity) and changed the door lock to take the mechanism from the donor car for my power steering column (vauxhall corsa) so there's one key only. I also fitted a button to lock/unlock on the panel just below the choke lever, and a hidden one in the boot area (paranoid). I think I spent more time stuffing around with the doors than anything else so far! I also did the relay mod for the windows, and fitted puddle lights while I was there. I'm happy with it, I agree only for confident DIY folks with plenty of time, patience and a good stock of scrap bits (brackets, metal strapping, aluminium angle etc) to figure out an installation.
  24. This is something I will do eventually too, I did a bit of research earlier on the aftermarket kits. I second the 'life in Aus' speed comments! The kits have a servo type actuator that actually moves the accelerator pedal, based on a speed pulse signal. From memory the link to the accelerator pedal was a fine chain rather than a bar, but I could be wrong about that. The types of unit I saw (this is ten years ago now) used a Hall Effect pickup on a magnet bonded onto a driveshaft for their speed signal. There is an electrical box that basically keeps that pulse rate even by applying more or less throttle, and a micro switch for the clutch and brake that disables the system. I'd think the tacho signal would be too high frequency compared to a once per wheel rev signal, but the theory is correct. I don't like the idea of the pedal moving, but the throttle linkage in our cars requires the cable to be in tension from the carbs onwards, so fitting the actuator elsewhere so as to not move the pedal needs some thought. Possibly fitted to the lever the cable pulls on on the left hand side of the pedal box? I had mental images of feet trapped under the accelerator pedal! The other thing I'd do is fit a kill switch somewhere on the power feed. Also most of the control stalks are hideous! Cheers, Simon
  25. Coil is not old, and the issue is there from start up now (has been deteriorating progressively). The fact that the stumble included very off timing makes me suspect the module. When the idle hesitates, with the timing light connected, you get a flash from the timing light, which illuminates the mark on the flywheel, with wildly off timing. Timing is normal and bang on when idling smoothly. So the hesitation is caused by ignition timing being not reliable maybe?
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