free hit
counters
Spindoctor's Content - The Lotus Forums #ForTheOwners Jump to content


Spindoctor

Basic Account
  • Posts

    26
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Spindoctor

  1. No Covers for storage. We have an exotics painter that has informed us of all the evils that can happen to paint under a cover (trapping various off gasses and such). So it has been properly buffed and waxed then we routinely go into our storage shop and knock the dust off with a dust wand.
  2. Hello All! I am hoping you can help me out with some info and pictures. We have been storing a customers black 02 Esprit w 918 for over a year. When we pulled it out to get it ready for the customer to pick up we found dozens of little paint blisters on the front deck. We have had a couple of our local paint guys confirm that it is coming from below the paint and was probably a prep fault. Our customer however is sure we spilled something on the paint and would like for us to repaint the car. If you you have similar experience or info\picture to help us properly inform our customer of his options that would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance - Tim H The Spindoctor
  3. I always like to finish my posts in case someone was following along- In the race against the clock it was decided to stick with original compressor wheels. (the 60mm wheels and parts may be found under for sale items shortly) I rebuilt the left bank turbo with the core turbine wheel had it balanced installed and joy of joys no more smoke. If anyone is interested I would post pictures of the damaged seal ring groove and maybe video of the car on the dyno. Thanks - Tim H The Spindoctor Dynoauthority
  4. The Spindoctor moniker comes from my being an AWD Dyno tuner. I have had a Mustang AWD twin eddy 500 for 11 years with over 800 cars across the rollers. Now back to our regularly scheduled question- Any info on these 60mm turbos as they apply to the 918 motor would be appreciated as I plan on using them instead of the OEM units. Any reason not to is what I am most interested in. Also, I have added the twin air\water charge cooler kit previously.
  5. Basic marketing '101' Get your message in front of as many eyes as possible. Not all those reading the engine posts go over to the turbo posts or vice versa. The readers of either may have valuable and appreciated input - but they have to see the question first. Others may learn something they did not know they wanted to know. That and the one post was already locked!
  6. UPDATE- The core turbos showed up and much to my surprise they had the 60 mm compressor wheel instead of the 54 mm. All else being the same what kind of tuning issues may I incur if I upgrade to the 60mm units? And does that make these cores the gt28 ? Thanks in advance- Tim H (this post is in addition to the one just below)
  7. UPDATE- The core turbos showed up and much to my surprise they had the 60 mm compressor wheel instead of the 54 mm. All else being the same what kind of tuning issues may I incur if I upgrade to the 60mm units? And does that make these cores the gt28 ? Thanks in advance- Tim H (this is a continuation of the post just below this one)
  8. UPDATE- The core turbos showed up and much to my surprise they had the 60 mm compressor wheel instead of the 54 mm. All else being the same what kind of tuning issues may I incur if I upgrade to the 60mm units? And does that make these cores the gt28 ? Thanks in advance- Tim H
  9. I have located a pair of build able cores and should get them early next week. John Welch of WC engineering LLC was very helpful and informative in regards to our search. I will post a "smoke free" update when finished! Thanks to all those who replied. Tim H
  10. I have located a pair of build able cores and should get them early next week. John Welch of WC engineering LLC was very helpful and informative in regards to our search. I will post a "smoke free" update when finished! Thanks to all those who replied. Tim H
  11. Great cataloge. Has everything you need to know accept the 10 fin tubine wheel of the lotus TB2531. Interestingly the SAAB 9000 is a nearly perfect match aside from the 11 fin count and the 6.6mm tip height. Thanks for the reply- Tim H
  12. This has been posted in a couple of spots- Sorry if it seems out of place here! I know there is a WTB spot under for sale and wanted but people don't always look there. I have a 918 motor here that has been giving me fits with a rebuilt turbo (left bank) and smoke. Went through all the oil level tests I could think of just Incase it was an over fill causing the smoke. All the tests where done just to satisfy my curiosity as the right bank never smoked, so I knew from the beginning that the level could not cause the problem or they would both smoke. I have determined a quick dip stick test to verify that the 'Olive' is in the correct 103mm spot. Since you cannot pull the tube up with the head installed on the engine a quick way to check is to: 1) make sure vehicle is flat and level 2) fill the engine up to the full mark 3)put a catch bucket under the turbo 4)get down to the turbo oil return and remove it- allow the oil to empty out of the pan nipple for about 15 min. 5)Now check the level on your dip stick it should be rite at the lower 'Fill' mark. If not loosen the union and adjust the tube until it is. 6)Reinstall return 7)Replace apx 1qt and now it should be at the 'Full' mark. In my estimation the engine would have to be at least 2qts over full to cause a resting level high enough to sap past the seal rings over night. Remember when the engine is running the level is considerably lower and not likely to back up into the turbo. Which brings me to what I really posted about- The smoking on this vehicle turned out to be a bad turbine shaft. The pinch or squeeze seal ring on the turbine side of the shaft is located in a ring groove just like a piston ring on a piston. The groove on this one is totally worn out and the ring has no surface to seal against and thus lets oil into the exhaust. What I need is a replacement shaft- new would be great- high quality used OK. Garretts part # is 4359.2-1 This is for the 918 motor with the TB 25\31 turbos. ANY help locating this part by LAST week would be appreciated. I would gladly purchase a buildable core if there is one available! Thanks in advance- Tim H Dynoauthority Redmond WA 425-869-8324 If wanted I could post pictures of a good vs the bad seal ring and groove.
  13. This is a copy of a post I have placed elsewhere. I know there is a WTB spot under for sale and wanted but people don't always look there. AND THIS RELATES TO THE FORMER POSTED (BELOW) Dumbish question about oil level and smoke. I have a 918 motor here that has been giving me fits with a rebuilt turbo (left bank) and smoke. Went through all the oil level tests I could think of just in case it was an over fill causing the smoke. All the tests where done just to satisfy my curiosity as the right bank never smoked, so I knew from the beginning that the level could not cause the problem or they would both smoke. I have determined a quick dip stick test to verify that the 'Olive' is in the correct 103mm spot. Since you cannot pull the tube up with the head installed on the engine a quick way to check is to: 1) make sure vehicle is flat and level 2) fill the engine up to the full mark 3)put a catch bucket under the turbo 4)get down to the turbo oil return and remove it- allow the oil to empty out of the pan nipple for about 15 min. 5)Now check the level on your dip stick it should be rite at the lower 'Fill' mark. If not loosen the union and adjust the tube until it is. 6)Reinstall return 7)Replace apx 1 qt and now it should be at the 'Full' mark. In my estimation the engine would have to be at least 2qts over full to cause a resting level high enough to seep past the seal rings over night. Remember when the engine is running the level is considerably lower and not likely to back up into the turbo. Which brings me to what I really posted about- The smoking on this vehicle turned out to be a bad turbine shaft. The pinch or squeeze seal ring on the turbine side of the shaft is located in a ring groove just like a piston ring on a piston. The groove on this one is totally worn out the ring has no surface to seal against and thus lets oil into the exhaust. What I need is a replacement shaft- new would be great- high quality used OK. Garretts part # is 4359.2-1 This is for the 918 motor with the TB 25\31 turbos. ANY help locating this part by LAST week would be appreciated. I would gladly purchase a rebuildable core If there is one available. Thanks in advance- Tim H Dynoauthority Redmond WA 425-869-8324 If wanted I could post pictures of a good vs the bad seal ring and groove.
  14. We have a national reman company local to us - Alamo. They can easily take care of the ass. My distributor has the rebuild kit and bearing end plate (compressor side) as they are common to many models of turbo. The turbine wheel is the odd part out so far. I would gladly buy a good build able core from someone who is up sizing. Thanks for the reply- Tim H
  15. Power Technologies is a Garrett parts suplier. They helped me locate the Garrett # by looking up the Lotus A918E0060F turbo part#. The 4359.2-1 is in the Garrett catalog, however, availability was unknown when they tried to find one. When I try to get to Garrett directly I get reffered to distributors. I will keep looking. Thanks for the reply- Tim H
  16. I know there is a WTB spot under for sale and wanted but people don't always look there. AND THIS RELATES TO THE FORMER POSTED (BELOW) Dumbish question about oil level and smoke. I have a 918 motor here that has been giving me fitts with a rebuilt turbo (left bank) and smoke. Went through all the oil level tests I could think of just incase it was an over fill causing the smoke. All the tests where done just to satisfy my couriosity as the right bank never smoked, so I knew from the beginning that the level could not cause the problem or they would both smoke. I have determined a quick dip stick test to verify that the 'Olive' is in the correct 103mm spot. Since you cannot pull the tube up with the head installed on the engine a quick way to check is to: 1) make sure vehicle is flat and level 2) fill the engine up to the full mark 3)put a catch bucket under the turbo 4)get down to the turbo oil return and remove it- allow the oil to empty out of the pan nipple for about 15 min. 5)Now check the level on your dip stick it should be rite at the lower 'Fill' mark. If not loosen the union and adjust the tube until it is. 6)Reinstall return 7)Replace apx 1qt and now it should be at the 'Full' mark. In my estimation the engine would have to be at least 2qts over full to cause a resting level high enough to seap past the seal rings over night. Remeber when the engine is running the level is conciderably lower and not likely to back up into the turbo. Which brings me to what I really posted about- The smoking on this vehicle turned out to be a bad turbine shaft. The pinch or squeaze seal ring on the turbine side of the shaft is located in a ring groove just like a piston ring on a piston. The groove on this one is totally worn out the ring has no surface to seal against and thus lets oil into the exhaust. What I need is a replacement shaft- new would be great- high quality used ok. Garretts part # is 4359.2-1 This is for the 918 motor with theTB 25\31 turbos. ANY help locating this part by LAST week would be apreciated. Thanks in advance- Tim H Dynoauthority Redmond WA 425-869-8324 If wanted I could post pictures of a good vs the bad seal ring and groove. Sorry about the spelling errors I do not have a spell check on this yet.
  17. Mike, Thank you so very much for the piston. It arrived this morning and two seconds after opening the package our suspicions were confirmed. The oil return holes behind the rings on the OE piston drain straight down and do NOT penetrate to the inside of the skirt. Therefore oil from the squirters never gets directly to the rings. The piston sets that have been installed ( all 3 ) had the scraper returns drain back into the skirts. The direct spray of the oil was too much for the rings to deal with. Our builder is going to see if the manufacturer will warranty us a correctly built set. I am not sure what we can do to return the favor - If you are ever in this part of the world... Thanks again - Tim H If you like\need we can return the piston and the postage no problem.
  18. Mike, Thanks for the reply. This has been a multiple builder (3), component issue. Three rebuilds and the same oil control problem returns. High oil consumption with blue oil smoke and plug fouling. If you run the motor until full warm, shut it off, wait until cool and pull the plugs you will find a puddle of oil on every piston. The guides and seals have been positively eliminated as the source. Currently the piston set is a Diamond. It is my belief that the first set of pistons were not made correctly and that the rest have been copies of a bad design. Thus the need for an original for comparison. The current builder is very skilled at machine work. Much time was spent with the ring tech at 'Perfect Circle' to match the gap less ring set to the final plateau hone with the correct ring end gaps for the ap. I very much appreciate the use of you piston Our address is F.A.M.E. Automotive 18028 Redmond Way Redmond, WA 98052 I will certainly post back with an update to our findings. And, as always, any comments or related info is appreciated. Tanks again- Tim H P.S. - I bet I can R&R this motor faster than anyone at this point!
  19. Hello all- I need to acquire 1 original piston for a 2002 918 3.5ltr V-8. There is an oil consumption problem I am having with a new set of custom mades and I believe that the oil ring land and return holes are not suited for an engine with oil squirter's. The originals did not come back from the builder and they are no where to be found. Piston does not need to be new or perfect (one piece would be preferred) for comparison purposes. Thanks in advance- Tim H
  20. Yes, that would be the HT wires. I am looking for the correct coil tower to plug routing. Thanks Never mind! Turns out the CD copy I was looking at is an incomplete copy! I found my original and the info popped rite up on search. Thanks- Tim H (The Spindoctor)
  21. Hello all! 2002 V8 - I am re-installing freshly built motor. When I took the engine out I drew a diagram of the coil\wire lay out for a quick install. Now, a couple of months later, I can not find my diagram and the factory build manual does not cover such info. A PDF or such to show the order and lay out would be much appreciated as a plenum re-pull after the fact would be a drag. Thanks in advance- Tim H (The Spindoctor)
  22. Post has been moved- Thanks
  23. Engine is reinstalled and I just fired up the motor and so far no ticking lifters. Will finish installing the inter coolers and everything else and run it out on the highway. Then back on the Dyno for final fuel tuning (Unichip) and we will see what a weekend of driving does for us. I do have pictures of the disassembly and I will post them with my final report. Looks like we are in for good weather this weekend for once. The SpinDoctor
  24. Was running 250Kpa(a) 21psi. On the 'Red' Chip? BEFORE the intercoolers went in. Engine is out and apart. Found Three lightly bent valves including a non fully seating exhaust valve. (That should explain the occ. exhaust pop at idle that the owner has complained of since he originally purchased it.) I will post some pictures and more detail in awhile. Thanks - The Spindoctor Tim H ps- I thought that I had read about a new head uprade? I can't find where I saw that. If someone could post a link with that info I would be grateful.
  25. Original issue was a burned piston due to excessive boost before the inter coolers were installed. The next issue was a bearing failure due to low oil pressure. The original builder of the first job left out the oil sleeve in the oil pump pressure return piston. I am the second re builder and my issue with the lifters is there is no way to check the guides or valve stem heights in car. All the lifters are new and as mentioned above all have zero lash\pump down. The only assembly I did not due myself was the head valve & spring. I had an issue with a BMW M52 motor where an ever so slightly bent valve (which slid in and out of the guide by hand) would bind when the spring was installed as the spring would force the valve to try and stand straight causing it to bind in the guide. The was verified by a wear spot in the new guide. A mishandled valve could be my problem. I was just checking to see if this tick was any kind of a common issue with these engines. I will begin the pull this afternoon. On a second note: Would anyone have an Idea as to why this car will occ. stall on decel. I have over 1000miles since the rebuild and every once in an odd while it will just fail to catch itself and stall. Thanks in advance- Tim H
×
×
  • Create New...