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Everything posted by Techspy

  1. I am probably going to need to replace my slave cylinder soon. A few drips of fluid on the floor and the last time I flushed it, I could see a bit of wear inside but it wasn't leading to any leakage yet. So, I see several slave cylinders available for s4 specifically and the ones for a rover. Question, do these generally come with the piston/plunger as well? I imagine they don't come with the rod but figured it would come with the piston/plunger but none of the ads I see show it or mention it. Thanks
  2. I wish I had an extra head/cam tower to play with to design one. Something similar to this but with a handle to manually compress it. With the valve in the closed position, just enough compression to remove the shim and replace it. Or am I missing something else obvious?
  3. Does a tool exist that allows you to compress the valve spring with the cams still installed? Meaning, it would be great to be able to changes shims without having to remove the cams etc. If one doesn't exist, does anyone have any design ideas to make one?
  4. AHHHHH!!!! Power steering pump tensioner bolt!
  5. Well, I am tracking down a noise that I am suspecting could be the tensioner. I have spent countless hours trying to find a piece of metal or something loose that is causing this. Even replaced the exhaust (cat back, it needed it anyway). I have bent shields, and small brackets thinking I had found the issue but haven't. It is particularly loud when you pass something flat like a fence or drive near a wall. Seems the same loudness on both side. Kinda seems to be coming from the front of the engine. Turning on the a/c does not affect it. It sounds just like a loose pipe clamp on an exhaust pipe or a washer or coin on a frame part etc. Dropped the plastic pan hoping I would find something but nope. Blue belt installed about a year ago but didn't replace the tensioner bearing. Where is the best place to get one? Would be great if I could find one I could just order online as opposed to having to call one of the specialist next week and wait for shipping from CA. Anyway, here is the video. You can hear the rattle. Thanks for any info;
  6. Perfect, thanks for the info! I was hoping there was a plug and play option. Just looked at your build thread. Very nice!
  7. Yep, I am well aware of that. I was asking specifically for the Esprit. As in, unplug OEM unit, plug in new unit and start tuning
  8. Anyone know if there is a tune available to run E85? Currently running chip #3 and I already have larger injectors installed. I would LOVE the ability to change to a memcal or whole new ECU to be able to flash and tune via a laptop. Anyone know of a solution for this? Thanks
  9. Well, after flushing the system with new fluid and at the same time bleeding all 4 corners, it seems the issue is now fixed. Possibly I had some debris in there or maybe the fluid was just too old? I am ashamed to admit that it was way too long since I changed the fluid. Also, when parking now I don't use the parking brake but just put it in gear (unless on a really steep incline). This has prevented the "shimmy" that has developed in the past from the rear pads baking onto a hot rotor. Hopefully this has fixed the issue.
  10. Thanks for the info. That is a bit more expensive that I had hoped! I have 3 sets of front spoiler lips and keep a refurbed set ready to go on when I scuff one up. I think I will keep that plan for now
  11. So I found this thread while researching airbag suspension for my s4. I am not into lowering it to a "lowrider" but want the ability to raise it for speed bumps, parking lot entrances etc. Mine sits pretty low now and I do get some wheel rub when hitting dips etc at speed on the rears. My question is will these bags fit directly to my current struts, replacing the springs? I have SPAX on now and already have an airpump system from another project I could use. I am guessing there will be other mods needed, especially for the front. I was hoping I could add a bag to the existing setup kinda like i did on my SUV to lift the rear a bit when hitching a trailer. Not really interested in swapping the springs for bags and thought a "helper" bag would work. Thanks for any info.
  12. I removed my rear wing and filled the holes. The paint was a perfect match. My paint and body skills not so much A couple other mods covered too.
  13. I fitted keyless entry to my 94 a long time ago and I recall that the way the factory electrics work on the door was kinda strange. Anyway, prob not much help but it is possible the aftermarket system became "unprogrammed". Maybe a case of the doors locking while open that cause this strangeness? FYI, when I installed my keyless system I put the brain the front boot under the cover that goes over the ABS computer (not the master cylinder side). I think I did that because it was easy to locate the correct wires near there? If you don't have any luck getting it open, maybe it would be easier to find a way to operate one of the windows switches to get the window down so you can attack it from the inside? Have you tried disconnecting the battery for awhile to see if it resets? Or try the key with the battery disconnected? I guess it is possible the aftermarket system is keeping the "locked" command energized.
  14. Good info guys. I will look at bleeding the MC just to be sure. I understand it is really easy! (Not)
  15. Actually no. I didn't identify any evidence of air on the system and did the bleed to flush out old fluid. Any thoughts that being neccessary?
  16. Thanks for the link. I just jacked the rear up, put it in 1st and let it spin the rear wheels for awhile. Only a couple degrees increase in temps. So it seems the issue is only happening during the actual application of the brake pedal. No dragging after brakes applied or in general. At this point I can only think that the issue is within the master cylinder. Maybe the spool valve.
  17. I actually just checked and after releasing the brakes, the tears spin freely immediately. There goes that idea. Next I am going to jack the rear up with cool brakes and idle in 1st gear and check the temps. I can spin easily by hand but there is a very slight drag which I understand is normal. Just want to see how much they heat up with no brake action.
  18. Ah ok. I am leaning towards the front working ok but the rears "over working". When checking the temps, the front seem to be around 100-150f after a normal drive with normal braking while the rears get up to 225-325f. So if I am stopping aggressively and need "stopping power" and have to rely on the rears to stop me within a certain distance, yeah, I could see that. But just coasting to stops with minimum braking and the rears getting that hot seems to point to "over use" of the rears IMHO. I could be completely wrong however Actually there is a pressure proportioning valve on this system (see page 47 of section JF) however it doesn't work in the conventional way. "Pressure Prooortionina Valve (TMC/Bendix brakes only) If the brakes are vigorously operated when the accumulator is charged and the vehicle is stationary (at which time the ABS does not operate to control brake line pressure), the very high pressures produced in the boost chamber and rear brake circuit .could result in the rear brakes being applied with a force sufficient to overadjust the parking brake mechanism contained within the caliper piston. In order to prevent this possibility, and the consequent brake drag and pad wear, a pressure proportioning valve is fitted into the rear brake circuit, and is located at the right hand front of the engine bay" So, if it is bad the hand brake could be "over adjusted" but I don't see any evidence of that. Just wondering if it could be defective and prevent the rear line pressure from releasing immediately.
  19. I havn't changed anything from the stock setup. Why would you think the fronts are at fault? As a test, I completely loosened the handbrake and made sure the lever on the calipers was as far released as it would go. Issue remained. Now I am wondering if the parking brake has been "over adjusted". I see where the proportioning valve is supposed to prevent that but wonder if it is not working correctly. but that doesn't make sense because the brakes don't drag. I am starting to wonder if when letting off the brake pedal that for some reason the rears don't release completely right away. I will probably jack the car up while running, use the brakes and see if the rears stay locked or release right away. Man I can't figure this thing out.
  20. Well after a good drive today it seems the issue is not better. Rears are much hotter. One was 325 while the front was 125! I think i am going to rebuild the calipers just to rule that out. I am sure they could use it anyway. And suggestions on where to get the rebuild kits? I am guessing it is just the seals and robber boot dust protector and mainly consists of cleaning any gunk out?
  21. Well a few years ago I asked about it at a local shop and they wouldn't do it. Actually after looking at the rears again, they aren't as bad as I recalled. I think I am good for now but may look for a dimpled set later as opposed to a drilled set.
  22. Ok, just completed the service manual procedures for bleeding. I suctioned out the reservoir just to the bottom and then topped up with clean fluid. Then bleed each caliper until it was obvious new fluid was coming out. After this I went for a drive. Pedal may feel a little better but hard to tell. I did notice that my front left pads squeaked a little on my first few slow stops. These are pads I put on about 200 miles ago that probably never seated because of this issue. Stopping seems a little different. Seems like less nose dive when braking. Maybe it is placebo. Anyway, after my drive the right side rotors were within a few degrees in temp, around 175 degree. The left front was about 150 and the left rear around 225. So, I am cautiously optimistic that this may have been the fix. I hope in a few more miles the front will be good and seated and the left temps will even out. If this is the fix, it must have been trash, really bad fluid or air in the fronts that needed bleeding. Wish me luck. BTW, my rear rotors are getting a little grooved and after all this over heating I am thinking of replacing them. They are drilled rears from ramspott-brandt. Anyone have any other recommendation for drilled rear rotors? I am still recovering from the head gasket repair so a set a little cheaper would be great.
  23. Thanks. Just tested with the rear solenoid fuse removed, and no difference. Getting ready to flush using Espritmon. I am guessing the procedure is to open the nipple on the corresponding caliper and follow the steps listed here from the espritmon thread while ensuring the reservoir stays topped up? Anyone with any additional info, advice appreciated. 1. lf release on,off 2. rf release on,off 3. rear release on,off 4. lf hold and release on,off 5. lf hold and release on,off 6. lf hold and release on,off 7. rf hold and release on,off 8. rf hold and release on,off 9. rf hold and release on,off 10. rear hold and release on,off 11. rear hold and release on,off 12. rear hold and release on,off 13. lf release on,off 14. rf release on,off 15. rear release on,off 16. lf hold and release on,off 17. lf hold and release on,off 18. lf hold and release on,off 19. rf hold and release on,off 20. rf hold and release on,off 21. rf hold and release on,off 22. rear hold and release on,off 23. rear hold and release on,off 24. rear hold and release on,off EDIT: Not sure this is the correct procedure. I guess I can just use the manual stated way to bleed the brakes and just keep bleeding until new fluid flows.
  24. Thanks. Yeah there is definitely something wrong. This has not always been this way on my S4. It is heating the rotors too much and changing pads every month or so is just not good. It seems to be getting worse. I will be testing today and doing a flush as soon as I cam able to find the "Tech 1 bleed procedure".
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