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Techspy

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Everything posted by Techspy

  1. Quick update. Seems it was taking longer than usual for all oil etc to burn off the manifold. The next morning I found oil on the garage floor. Turns out the replacement O rings for the cam tower bolt covers from JAE are not the right size. They are too small and the covers bottom out without any compression of the O ring. I changed them with the old set and it took care of the issue.
  2. Back together and test drive complete. Clean exhaust, lots of power and sounds even smoother than before (I think one of my valve adjustments wasn't exactly right from last time). Now to let her cool down, drain the water and put proper coolant in, wire up the audio amp and worst of all, clean the garage Thanks for all the help/input guys. Didn't think I would have it done for Cars and Cappuccino Sunday!
  3. I have seen varied numbers but no real consensus on the blue belt. I know that 90 is too low (slipped a tooth) and 140 is too high (whined). I settled on 130 last time and seemed to have the right amount of twist (approx 90).
  4. Thanks. I think I will run it as is. I checked with a turbo rebuilder and they suggested the same. At least if any shards come off it will only possibly contact the exhaust turbine and go out the exhaust.
  5. Well crap. Spare has a crack in the same area. Seems this is a weak point? Anyone else inspected that area? Is this weldable?
  6. I pulled apart my WCE turbo to replace the seals etc and found this crack. I imagine it has been there awhile. With the heat cycles this thing goes through I just don't know if it is acceptable or not. I have a spare OEM turbo and I have the exhaust bolts soaking in penetrating oil so I can pull it apart to see if it is in good shape. Otherwise what are the thoughts on running this one or having it welded? Thanks
  7. Thanks. Yep, I got the latest lube with my parts so good to go there. Timing belt tensioned. Used 130hz like last time. Just waiting on my turbo parts now but discovered a small crack in the turbo exhaust housing. Will post in a new thread.
  8. Thanks. Done. It just seems wrong putting that much torque on something that size. Re-assembly to continue. Waiting on rebuild parts for the turbo s well.
  9. Ok so JAE sent me the angle method with the gasket even though they knew I was using the ARP studs. Do I use the 110lb per nut as recommended by ARP or the angle method as recommended by Goetze? I have found discussions about this but no definitive answer. I am guessing due to the different thread pitch, the arp method is correct. Thanks!
  10. All valves adjusted (4 total were slightly out of spec but are good now). Belts installed (PITA). New tensioner bearing installed (definitely needed it) Thermostat replaced. And NIP checked. From back to front 0.00, 0.00 : +0.01 , -001 : -0.01, 0 : 0.00,0.00 so according to the manual all good. Cleaning head and block surfaces and installing head next. Still a bit perplexed being the gasket failure location is not ridiculously evident. For clarity it is probably more accurate to describe the coolant as "smokey" as opposed to oily. Like exhaust gas was in it. When I removed the coolant cap after returning home it has lots of small bubbles in it that lasted quite awhile and smelled "oily/gassy". Anyway, once I am at the point to reinstall the turbo I will pull it apart to see if any seals etc are obviously bad. I still have my stock turbo that was in good condition I can install for awhile if needed. Any other advice on failure places I am all ears.
  11. Is this a Goetze gasket? Being it is unmarked, want to make sure. Still trying to decide what else I should check. Thinking of pulling the turbo apart to check all seals (WCE turbo) Anyway, checked valve clearances on intake and re-shimmed 2 of them to get back in spec. Doing exhaust today, measuring nip and may get the head back on.
  12. Thanks Guys. A bit of an update. I do not recall the nip measurements from last time. I will measure and report back. I confirmed that JAE did ship me the Goetze THIS time but said they didn't last time and that they don't believe they even stocked it in 2018. Not sure what happened here. I vaguely recall having a discussion on it but don't recall the outcome. Suffice to say this is whatever OEM replacement they sold in 2018. They are providing the proper arp stud lube with the proper torque settings as well this time. A bit more on the symptoms. Driving along after a 3rd gear WOT pull (nothing crazy or near reline etc). Few minutes later under moderate load it started to stumble badly. Immediately turned around and went home. Total drive time about 20min. Pulled the plugs and they were pretty sad so got a new set, installed went for a ride. Seemed ok at first but as it warmed up (like 5 min later) had white smoke/vapor under any decent throttle with the stumble. Went home, pulled coolant cap and the water was full of oil. No milky substance to note in oil. Same symptoms I had previously without overheating but attribute that to very short drives when I noticed the issue. Anyway, if it isn't the head gasket I am at a loss. Turbo seals blown out? I have the chargecooler blanking plug and running an electric pump. Possibly a bad water or oil pump? I suppose I will pull both to check. More picts of the gasket, pistons, and head. I Figured combustion escaped between the head and gasket where the discoloration is (red arrows in pict). I looks like there is a trail right to the coolant journals. Nice indentation from the liner nip on the other side that doesn't seem to be breached at all.
  13. Tear down complete, parts will be here in 3 days. Doing all belts, timing belt tensioner bearing, thermostat, plug wires etc. Anyway, looking at the gasket it was definitely not as bad as last time. Perhaps because I identified the issue immediately and took it off the road. I did notice that the head bolts (nuts actually) around the left 2 cylinders in the pict were not as tight when I removed them. I know I torqued them all the same last time. Not sure the cause but will be sure to pay extra attention this time. I may have the head checked for flatness as well. Any thoughts? Oh one other questions. Seems the crank rotated a bit removing the belts so it isn't at TDC now. I have hear horror stories about the liners coming undone rotating the crank with the head removed. I assume I can use a couple cross members held down by the studs to allow me to rotate it back to TDC or just wait until I put the head back on and before the cam towers etc. Any advice either way?
  14. Well, with the stock boost gauge it is tough to tell the exact boost pressure so not certain. However, I found this while disassembling. Seems the "Non-Return Valve, crankcase breather hose" has come apart. Not sure what the consequences of that is but I imagine it could screw with the fuel pressure or boost. Also found one of the spark plug wires has been damaged. Ordering parts tomorrow and then pulling the cam towers and head.
  15. Was the liner nip in spec? Can't recall the specifics but pretty sure I checked it during the last gasket change and it was good. what level of boost are you running? High Torque #3 chip that states "Max. boost 0.9 bar (1.0 bar only for very short periods under very special conditions)" was the head checked for flatness? With a metal straight edge but not on a mill etc. what head gasket brand was used? Goetz Is the cooling system working properly? Yes, never overheats. Rarely gets warm enough to have the fans come on.
  16. Pretty sure it was. I went with the best of everything. I am running the high torque chip so more than stock boost. It was nice and cool this morning and when I had a good WOT 3rd gear pull which is probably when it let go. Oh and thank GOD I made videos of the whole process. Watching them now so I know what mistakes not to make again!
  17. And another blown head gasket. FML
  18. I am probably going to need to replace my slave cylinder soon. A few drips of fluid on the floor and the last time I flushed it, I could see a bit of wear inside but it wasn't leading to any leakage yet. So, I see several slave cylinders available for s4 specifically and the ones for a rover. Question, do these generally come with the piston/plunger as well? I imagine they don't come with the rod but figured it would come with the piston/plunger but none of the ads I see show it or mention it. Thanks
  19. I wish I had an extra head/cam tower to play with to design one. Something similar to this but with a handle to manually compress it. With the valve in the closed position, just enough compression to remove the shim and replace it. Or am I missing something else obvious?
  20. Does a tool exist that allows you to compress the valve spring with the cams still installed? Meaning, it would be great to be able to changes shims without having to remove the cams etc. If one doesn't exist, does anyone have any design ideas to make one?
  21. AHHHHH!!!! Power steering pump tensioner bolt!
  22. Well, I am tracking down a noise that I am suspecting could be the tensioner. I have spent countless hours trying to find a piece of metal or something loose that is causing this. Even replaced the exhaust (cat back, it needed it anyway). I have bent shields, and small brackets thinking I had found the issue but haven't. It is particularly loud when you pass something flat like a fence or drive near a wall. Seems the same loudness on both side. Kinda seems to be coming from the front of the engine. Turning on the a/c does not affect it. It sounds just like a loose pipe clamp on an exhaust pipe or a washer or coin on a frame part etc. Dropped the plastic pan hoping I would find something but nope. Blue belt installed about a year ago but didn't replace the tensioner bearing. Where is the best place to get one? Would be great if I could find one I could just order online as opposed to having to call one of the specialist next week and wait for shipping from CA. Anyway, here is the video. You can hear the rattle. Thanks for any info; https://youtu.be/Nb4UfVmDI7M
  23. Perfect, thanks for the info! I was hoping there was a plug and play option. Just looked at your build thread. Very nice!
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