bgalbraith

I get $0.05 every time someone uses my tricks 🤣

To further my input, I've had trouble getting the aft pistons out. The solution is to boil it in water for an hour or more. It must loosen the seals up. I also recommend throwing some oregano in there, just so that you don't stink up the kitchen. Then, use an 8 mm concrete expanding wedge anchor inside the plunger to extract it. 1/2" is too big, 3/8" is too small. I had to special order 8 mm from Amazon, but it was next day delivery. If you have trouble getting the forward piston out, your only alternative might be to soak the inside with MEK or Xylene, which will dissolve the rubber seals. Hopefully that will allow you to remove the piston. Don't use this on the primary (aft) piston, as there are rubber parts that you have to reuse, and you will destroy them.

The correct answer is to boil it in water for an hour or so, and use an expanding concrete anchor inside the tube to extract it out. I have used the old lead shield type anchor before, and have usually been successful. I have a difficult one, so I haven 8 mm expanding concrete anchor on order, which should be here tomorrow.

No, as stated in the original question, the stop pin in the forward port is removed, and the circlip is removed.

I have two master cylinders that need to be rebuilt. I already have the kits, and have done this rebuild before, but getting the piston out is always a problem. Yes, the circlip and the pin in the forward port have been removed. I suspect that it might be an issue with the fluid absorbing moisture from the air, and when it leaks and dries out, it prevents removal. With a rebuild master cylinder running about $300 with shipping (SJ is $240, shipping to Florida, and I have to send a core there first), and I need two of them, it is worth some effort to try to rebuild these myself. Shops do it. I can't can't figure out to get the flippin'g piston out. Here is what I've tried so far: 1. Soaked it in penetrating oil. Also soaked it in acetone for 24 hours. 2. Blowing it out with 120 psi compressed air. The problem is closing off the top inlet ports, since there are no threads on there. 3. 20 minutes in a 110 deg F ultrasonic cleaner. 4. Banging it on the shop vise, with the piston pointed down. 5. Inserting a lead concrete anchor in, threading a screw in, clamping locking pliers on, and hitting that with a hammer. That has worked in the past, but not this time. 6. Connected a grease gun to it. That got the piston part way out, enough to get the first white and rubber washers off. The problem with that was that it is impossible to block off the top inlet ports. I tried using C/G clamps or my shop vise, but that is usually where the grease leaked out. 7. I opted NOT to use another brake master cylinder to apply pressure, as I thought that the grease guns were supposed to apply more pressure. I was also worried that brake fluid at 1000 psi would potential shoot things all over the garage, spraying everything in sight with brake fluid. I'll probably go check with a local NAPA parts and shop tomorrow, to see if they have any ideas, or can do it for me. Any other bright ideas? A blow torch is out of the question. There are plastic parts in there not part of the rebuild kit. o easy way to clamp onto the tube without crushing it.

Current seal is NAK 47404. No luck finding that on the open market. It was $50 my my US-based parts supplied for the Turbo-spec seal.

I'll have to contact my printer to see what he can do, but it's not going to happen until Monday. Anyone else want in on this? With printing and postage to the US, I'm guessing $20 will cover it, but I'm just guessing here. WIll have to see what the printer has to say. Bill

Thanks. I tried. I saved a couple of them, in case someone wakes up and realizes that they need one....and i still have the mold. I won't be making a lot of front bumpers, that's for sure.

Everyone loved them, no one bought them. Quality wasn't up to what I was hoping for, but I hear they were better than factory.

You are in luck. I just had mine out of my 79 S2, and I make a template. If @Steve V8 can't help you out, send me a message at [email protected] and I'll get it scanned in and sent to you.

Well, another million dollar idea in the trash can....

Sorry, I'm not taking credit for that modification.It was mark Pfeffer's work. I was just reposting it on my web site, www.holycows.net/Lotus

So, Mr. Restoration. Any tips on refitting the doors? I was thinking of something thick that wouldn't mar the paint, such as towels, plastic signs, etc. to position the door int he opening properly, then reach in and tighten the bolts. Luckily my windscreen is out, so the top bolt would be easy to access. The lower bolt would require getting into the Lotus position. Thanks, Bill

I've been thinking about this for a LONG time, and have been working on it for most of this year, but I've FINALLY gotten a decent urethane bumper built. I had a fiberglass unit on there before, but I would rather have the correct urethane, and I'm reassembling a car that needs bumpers as well. Hopefully I'll make sure front bumper this fall. Send me a message if you are interested. I still have a few left.

Lots of really good information in all of the emails, as well as the Files section here: https://groups.io/g/S1S2euroS3LotusEspritOwners I have some good information on S1/S2 Esprits on my web site: www.holycows.net/Lotus