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saggitarius

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  1. Hello everybody in the Europa community I'm normally in the Esprit section, but now I have come over (and bought) a Europa body that seems to have a somewhat difficult past :-) It seems to be a TC Special from the US, without documentation (title) or chassis plate. But since the VIN is engraved in both doors I have a feeling that it should be possible to find out at least something about it. The VIN reads 2715 R, and the body style is clearly of the TC varity - which should translate into 74/2715R? I have understood from another list that the letter R says that it's a federal (US) version. Which makes sense since I bought it from Florida. I've managed to find kind of a list of specs for Europas that have VINs close to mine at the lotus-europa.com website (and that says 1972 model year), but my car / VIN specifically is not included. And the web site also seems to be a little bit abandoned for the time being. So what I'm wondering is if anyone here can point me in the right direction where to start for a spec list? Is the Lotus factory a possibility? Any registrars for a club? Best regards Geir
  2. saggitarius

    saggitarius

  3. It will be well isolated and with both floors heated by a water-to-water "heat pump". And there is more than enough space on the plot to build a separate garage for 3-5 cars and the tractor and equipment. Thinking that this might be a good starting point for Lotus owners from abroad who plan to go sports car touring in Norway. Our region has very spectacular roads – so watch this space :-) But don't hold your breath as it will probably take a couple of years – and in the mean time I won't be able to work much on the Lotus. However some evenings is used to find solutions and to get the parts needed for the build. The downside is that with the budget we have we have to do most of the building ourselves. So after buying the place, I bought an old Volvo BM tractor with a back hoe, but this will be sold as soon as the project is finished. For snow clearing and other local transport needs I also bought a small International Harvester tractor and a dump trailer that I intend to keep. Now I'm digging deep around the perimeter of the building to make the concrete foundation for new isolated walls and new concrete basement floor. It will be well isolated and with both floors heated by a water-to-water "heat pump". And there is more than enough space on the plot to build a separate garage for 3-5 cars and the tractor and equipment. Thinking that this might be a good starting point for Lotus owners from abroad who plan to go sports car touring in Norway. Our region has very spectacular roads – so watch this space :-) But don't hold your breath as it will probably take a couple of years – and in the mean time I won't be able to work much on the Lotus. However some evenings is used to find solutions and to get the parts needed for the build.
  4. Don't know if I should post our housing project as part of my Esprit build log, but in a way it IS part of the build! I see elsewhere on this forum that there is a discussion about in- and outdoors parking space on your own land, and space to go on with the Esprit and other projects has been an important part of our discussions before going into this build. We have today a place with a nice house, a separate garage / workshop of around 70 square meters and driveway parking for two cars – three in a squeeze. But since I'm constantly working on and restoring cars and lately also motorcycles, space is still at a premium. When you disassemble a car it takes lots of space suddenly... I've been searching for some time for a place where there is more space for this hobby that I'm not going to give up in a hurry. A year ago we found a large plot with only an old 130 square meter two floor barn on it - and me and my wife both agreed that that place was very good. It's in the outskirts of our home town, above and overlooking part of the water way of Telemark. We got permission to convert the barn to a combined house and workshop / garage, with the living quarters upstairs and 130 square meters of "motor space" downstairs – plus a 40 square meters of "motor cycle basement".
  5. Yes - this looks awesome! Looking forward to see the rest of the story
  6. Thanks again. As you understand, I'm at the lookout for Esprit projects with big engines - to gather information for this part of my own project
  7. I have wonderes for a long time why some car manufacturers choose to hang a heater matrix down from the ceiling in a string - and then build the entire car around it. This is a service item after all, and it is NOT neccessary to do it like that. My first "real" car many years ago was an Opel Ascona A 19SR, that was five years old when I bought it, and I had to change the matrix after a couple of years. The job was done in less than 20 minutes with a single screwdriver: unscrewing three screws and removing a lid on top of the bulkhead in the engine bay. Under the lid was the matrix, held by a couple of screws and two hose clips - everything easily accessible. Many years later I helped a friend to replace the matrix in a Lancia Thema. As far as i remember we unhooked a couple of clips on the bulkhead, and had to slide a plate to one side and draw the matrix out on a pair of runners - like a drawer - and unscrew the hose clips. On the other hand - a month ago I dismantled a BMW five-series E39 and sent the "tub" to the recycler. In the process I saved lots of parts, and also TRIED to save the matrix. After removing the entire interior, dashboard, instuments, all wires, air bags, everything, I still was unable to get the matrix out without destroying it. IMO this is not only unneccessary from the manufacturer. I think its done to MAKE it difficult/impossible for even a well equipped home mecanic to do, and to secure a steady supply of work for the dealer network. ON a car like the BMW, a leaking heater matrix will be the death of the car. To have a dealer to perform the operation cost more than the value of the car itself, even in Norway with the prices we have on cars. But maybe it's me getting cynical and grumpy
  8. Thank you! I was first trying to figure out the angle of the picture, but it seems that I'm looking at bolted frame parts (crossmember?) and a Bosch oil filter with its bracket in there.
  9. Got my bike license when I was 20 and had a couple of seasons on an old Suzuki GT380 stroker. Sold it when family life took a firm hold. But have had thoughts of jumping in there again, only now I kind of like classics on two wheels as well as four. The 1979 Esprit project got company in the garage a couple of years ago by a red blooded Italian - a Guzzi LeMans 1000 from 1985 with an unusual fairing. Bought it in the Netherlands, flew down there and got in the saddle of an MC for the first time in over 30 years. Had a gorgeous ride the 1000 kms back home on the European motorway network, and the old lady didn't miss a beat the whole trip Have also bought myself a commuter in the shape of a Yamaha TT600, about half the weight of the Guzzi and better suited to heavy city traffic, and no road toll.
  10. Love this Do you have a build thread for it somewhere? I'd like to know a bit more about something you mention earlier in this thread, about cross member and "packaging" in the engine bay. And especially one item of packaging: Exhaust manifolds and system...
  11. Brakes update I have wondered for some time about how to install the right brakes to this Lotus. As said before I've promised the authorities to use the brake setup from an S350. And the four calipers I've bought are all original front items off a TVR Cerbera 4.2 which incidentally are the same AP part number as the front S350 ones. They will be lightly ground in my old Beaver mill to remove the TVR logos and installed Lotus ones. But when it comes to discs I've been thinking: The S350 har special made bells and rotors from AP Racing, with the Lotus specific bolt pattern for the wheels and a spcially ordered bolt pattern for the bell to rotor mounting. This means that they (AP or Lotus) can charge "what they want" for replacement parts. Since I had to buy complete discs - and make caliper brackets - anyway I first investigated into other cars that had the same wheel bolt pattern and disc size, and bought a pair of Jaguar S-type R-spec discs to measure. They did fit the bearing, but the centre hole was too large (easily fixed with an alu ring) and there was no provision for the disc retaining bolts. These are not really necessary as the disc will be clamped between the bearing and the wheel, but I wanted to have it for extra "protection" anyway. So the solution to all this was to ask a brake specialist in the UK to make me a set of bells/hats made from top grade aluminium and with the following specs: Standard Lotus fitment to the wheel/hub Standard AP Racing fitment to the *("medium" sized) rotor. This means that when the time comes to replace worn or warped rotors they can be bought off the shelf from any company that deals in AP products. When at it I also bought a set of rotors from the same company - that they made themselves - at considerable less money than the AP ones. If they show up to be lower quality they can be replaced with standard AP items with no problem. With the Beaver mill I have it would have been possible to make the bells myself, but I see that these critical items bay be good for peace of mind to have done in a secure way by experts. As I've written before: this project seems to be dragging out for a long time - I'm now in the process of building a new home, with 170 square meters of workshop in the ground floor - but it will NEVER stop. That's a promise
  12. Hi Antonio A beautiful car that is coming back into sparkling life I have a question about the petrol tanks though: Petrol these days is mixed with ethanol. Minimum 5 % and meant to increase the coming years to 10 % and maybe 15 % and above. At the same time I'm told that normal aluminium "doesn't like" ethanol and is reacting with the stuff in a corrosive way. I have installed an aluminium tank in an old car I have, but was adviced to treat it with some kind of tank sealer - which I did. Just wanted to let you know. Maybe there is less ethanol in Australia... Any way - good luck further with your beauty. Geir
  13. @ Simon Yes it IS a bit frustrating. But on the other hand, some of the projects that are keeping me from working on the Lotus are interesting also :-) Building a Honda XR500R cafe racer / street fighter is the most fun. And it's working like this: When I discover that I need some parts for the Lotus, I can do something on the Honda. And the other way around. The MC engine needed a lot more parts than anticipated, since I found there was missing a tooth from the primary drive, one from the kick drive and five from the clutch... And since I'm using a 1984 engine on a 1981 frame I needed to make my own engine mountings... But to me the construction and "investigation" to find solutions are part of the fun with projects like these. But even so, I wouldn't mind a faster progress
  14. The progress of this project is even slower than I thought it would be. But it hasn't stopped completely as some of the LEF probably would have thought - unless they have forgotten about it The chassis itself and the suspension parts are now ready and the build up has started. Here a couple of pictures of the S350 bearing housings during and after the sanding / polishing. Did take some time to get these parts shining, but they both look better this way (IMO) and I believe there is less danger of stress cracks too. And the rear chassis ready built up - with original Lotus shocks and springs and PU bushings. The front suspension hooked up - also with Lotus shocks/springs, but with rod ends for the inner points. Easier adjustment that way. The lower anchoring points have normal bushings though. Within a couple of weeks the chassis will be standing on its wheels, and I can start mocking up the engine-transmission combo to build the mountings. I have also gathered the plugs to connect the various senders and the coil packs to the ECU. The senders are present on the engine but I need to build a engine harness...
  15. Pictures 17, 19, 20 and 22 looks like they are of rooms perfectly suited to my needs of a spacious varm garage that's built into the house
  16. A beautiful black & gold Lotus F1 deodorant spotted - then purchased - a couple of days ago. Just had to install it on my shelf along with the Matchbox and Corgi Toys versions of Lotus.
  17. Jakob I'm afraid I haven't studied the S1 suspension in detail, as mine is an S3 version. I just know that the S1 had the front upper suspension and the steering from the Opel Ascona/Manta A. And those arms are totally different from the later Triumph sourced ones.
  18. Good photos - easy to see what "is going on". Thanks Travis - I'm collecting all sorts of information and pictures at the moment, to find possible pitfalls before stumbeling into them So I'm gateful for all the posts here as well - from you and others. Going to adapt and weld the front pivot point for the front lower control arms one of these days, and then the chassis can be put on its wheels for the first time in quite a lot of years. (Don't want to count them) Cheers to you all Geir
  19. Thanks for the input folks - and I'll look for Mr. F1 at facebook as well.
  20. Great - and congrats! I'm just a liiiitle bit envious :-) But even if my project is a very slow evolving one, it never stops. But wishes from me for many happy driving days to come for you .
  21. Hi again folks! As part of my project, I'm using the latest V8 (S350) front lower suspension arms on the S3 chassis. The main pivot point of the arm is as far as I can see compatible with the chassis without issues. However, the point in the chassis where the forward leg of the arm attaches needs to be addressed as there is none on the S3 chassis :-). I'll use the front "subframe" on the chassis as a starting point, and strengthen it in all 3 dimensions. But my concern is the line up of this point relative to the rear. I have a feeling that even if the two points of the arm itself are parallel, the corresponding points on the chassis may not be - to make a correct geometry. If I use a long straight steel bar through the rear (main) pivot point of the chassis and let it extend forwards through the area of the front pivot point, where will the correct bracket / hole be? Will it be in the straight line? If not, how many mm over or under and how many mm in/out from the main line? I know that the lower arm my Marcos front suspension has the rear pivot point set lower than the front but at the same in/out distance from the centre of the car. This will be a crucial dimension to get right in order to make the car behave like a Lotus on the road. Does somebody here KNOW this by heart? Does somebody have a bare chassis "laying around" in the garage? Or can somebody point me towards an expert source that can put this right? All help and input appreciated The right hand side arm an pickup points:
  22. Remember Kimi is a Finn. They don't smile or jump about much in Finland. They are very serious :-)
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