pmth95

Yes these do look like the ones i have

So i did a little google research and there is effectively two types of seat belt retractors. 1) weighted pendulum: this will lock if weight is moved forward in a collision 2) centrifugal clutch: this will lock when seat belt is yanked hard https://auto.howstuffworks.com/car-driving-safety/safety-regulatory-devices/seatbelt3.htm The Kangol retractors in my S1 are the weighted pendulum type. This explains why seat belt doesn’t lock when yanked.

So the single bolt holding the retractor is visible on the picture, deep inside the plastic cover...duh! As soon as I loosen the bolt the retractor starts working again (locking when yanked) As soon as I tighten the bolt the retractor stops working. I wonder if it is because the car has the front lifted up on jacks and this puts the retractors at an angle. I'll keep investigating, might be a while still before I can get the car level again. Thanks for the inputs on the potential sources.

Discovered that neither of my retractors lock the seat belt when yanked hard (like on every other car i have owned). 1) Are the bolts holding the retractors on the engine side under the plastic cover or are they behind the bulkhead trim? 2) What is a good source for new seat belts?

@plumdeplakmuis That doesn’t look like standard engine number that start with AC77 for the Federal US cars (Link). A quick google search on your number didn’t show much.

Yes that is what I ended up doing (Removing the old filters).

See the very beginning if this video. Shows how to set accelerator pump Not sure if the number of pushes on the accelerator is the same for the Esprit (google?), but the method for measuring works the same

@plumdeplakmuis

@lotus-62 Not sure about the heater. I bought the car that way. Will be looking into it, but have focused the initial work on the carbs, steering rack rebuild, alternator rebuild and power window switches (relays). I want to get the car back on the road in time for Spring.

@drdoom: The headlamp lifts are not original, they were done by then owner Don Sievenpiper back in the early 80s. They do seem to work fine and is one area of the car I have not looked into in detail.

Brought the hood to Jeff’s Fiberglass Repair, West Jefferson Av in Ecorse on monday, had it back on Friday and re-installed on Sunday. Seems like quality work, hood is much sturdier. In an effort to avoid this happening again I added two 18.22in 15lbs struts to hold the hood up replacing the original latch (McMaster-Carr PN 9416K18). Not “original” but if it can prevent the hood from breaking again. Makes for a very smooth opening of the hood.

In the DHLA45 rebuild kit I have, the new float needle valve is larger than original but has a smaller input and can no longer accept the original plastic filter (discontinued btw). I could: 1) Drill out the input side of the new Valve seat to accept original filter 2) Install new Needle valve without original filter. Any advice on which is better? Thanks, Patrick

This is what needs fixing. Will be looking for a Fiberglass repair shop in SE Michigan.

Left the front hood open last night, resting on the single support stay. The hinge by the stay tore under the weight of the hood. After unbolting the stay got the hood back to a "normal position. Any recommendations on removing the hood, fixing the attachment plate in the hood? Thanks, Patrick

@plumdeplakmuis according to this registry of Lotus Esprits, I would have the original engine of this car 261H in my newly acquired 105H. I am curious if you have the original engine of 105H. The original engine number is AC7770413717